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              <text>							Srinagar Kashmir Oct 30. 1911&#13;
Dear Mr. Putnam,&#13;
&#13;
			Please convey our greetings to the members of the American Alpine Club on the occasion of the annual meeting. Although once again so far away that we cannot well return to be present in the body we shall not forget the day and shall send in thoughts our best wishes over the void, that separates us from you, for a successful and interesting meeting.&#13;
	We returned two weeks ago from out seventh Himalayan Expedition. On this we devoted out attention to the region south of the Baltoro glacier, a region occupied by high mountains of 21,000 to over 25,000 feet with very steep, in many places, perpendicular [indecipherable], walls enclosing places so greatly crevassed and [indecipherable] as to be in parts impassable. We explored the while region tributary to the Kondu and Hushe basins from considerably beyond the longitude of Masherbrum in the west to the Kandus-Siachen watershed in the East, including seven large glaciers, four of which were mapped. We failed to find any of the three passes reputed to exist between this region and the Baltoro, thus exploding myths that have been handed around from one explorer to another and published as facts. All glacier-reservoirs were found to be enclosed by high, very abrupt, unscalable rock walls, and the reservoirs themselves to be mostly broken into [indecipherable] impossible to traverse. A great portion of the region examined was entirely [indecipherable] ground.&#13;
	After finishing this work, after the middle of August, we ascended the greatly broken and debris-covered Bilapho (the Batti word for butterfly) glacier, some 20 miles long, to the ice-covered pass at its head, about 18,550 feet above sea level as measured by [indecipherable] readings compared with simultaneous ones at Gov. Meteorological station at Skardu, crossed [ass and descended a wide glacier tributary to the Siachen glacier to the latter, reaching it at a point about 20 miles below its origin and at an altitude of about 16,000 feet. This glacier was discovered two years ago by Dr. Longstaff, who reached it by the same route we took. He went no further than the point mentioned, neither up nor down the glacier, remained only one day, and then retraced his steps over the Bilapho pass, (called by him the Saltoro though Bilapho seems the more proper name as the pass is at the top of the Bilapho glacier).&#13;
	The Siachen glacier, the largest mountain or valley-glacier in Asia yet discovered, is probably 50 miles, if not more, in length. Its upper half is very complicated in its topography, claims an immense area, and is fed by seven large branches of nearly as great width as the main stream. Two of these we ascended, one about 15 miles long bringing us up, at an altitude of 20,000 feet on the flank of the great peak K3, to a perpendicular wall of rock rising {indecipherable] to the summit 25,415 feet high. The second branch, over 25 miles in length brought us to a wide snow-plateau lying at and above an altitude of 19,000 feet, leading over towards the Karakoram Pass. This plateau stretches to fifteen miles Eastward and ends in a snow-pass descending to the East, toward the Karakoram Pass. Besides the large branches [indecipherable] – the smaller ones descend to the glacier from the mountains rising above it. &#13;
	The highest mountains lie west of the glacier on the eastern border of the region first explored, and far to the north where the head of the glacier probably meets the Baltoro mountains, several rising in separate peaks or massifs of great size. The most impressive peak, seen from the greater portion of the upper part of the glacier, and one dominating not only the Siachen but the Bilapho and Dong Dong glaciers, is K3 with two summits, marked on the Indian survey map as two separate peaks, of respective altitudes of 25,415 and 25,210 feet.&#13;
	Three elevations rising from the high Eastern wall of the glacier, one of which (it is uncertain from this description, map and photo which) was named by Dr. T. S. Longstaff Teram Kangri, were triangulated with [indecipherable] from a base, measured at the glacier, but Dr. Calciati, who was with us as topographer. The final results of this measurement have not yet been submitted, but the preliminary calculation indicate for the highest of the three points an altitude of not for fram 24,000 feet, quite a difference from the altitude assigned by Dr. Longstaff to Teram Kangri, who took these samples with a clinometer from different places to one of these peaks, which, worked out by the Indian survey at [indecipherable] have an altitude of over 30,000 feet which was finally reduced by Dr. Longstaff to 27,610 feet. The same three points have been triangulated by the Indian survey during the last season from four triponometrical stations to the south of the Siachen with results not differing greatly, apparently, from those obtained by Dr. Calciati. We believe the survey results have not yet been stated publicly. &#13;
	We reached the Siachen on the 19th August, rather late for work on a great glacier with a high snow pass to be crossed on the return which would be dangerous should stormy weather [indecipherable], but, as the weather proved favorable, several days at a time being absolutely cloudless, we remained a month, and were able to make the first exploration of a large portion of the upper half of the glacier and several of its tributaries, although the season was too advanced to attempt the extreme northern end and sources rising far into the region of snow at high altitude. During this time we were camped at altitudes of from 16,000 to over 19,000 feet. The low temperature in the shortening days and lengthening nights was somewhat trying, especially when the wind was strong. On three occasions at 16,000 feet a temperature of 5° was recorded.&#13;
	Among other high points a peak of 21,000 feet was ascended, from bottom to top sharp and its sides covered with loose shale, which, yielding under the foot as the latter crushed through the thin layer of crisp and honeycombed September snow, rendered the ascent exceedingly fatiguing. From this peak a remarkable view was obtained of over 35 miles of the Siachen glacier and of its wonderful entourage of giant mountains.&#13;
	The Siachen glacier is by no means an easy one to explore on account of its inaccessibility, its distance from any available base of supplies, the absence of wood and even of vegetation of any kind for the greater part of its course and of camping places on the ice and rock bound mountains surrounding it, and the configuration of its surface channeled by rivers and ravines alternating with [indecipherable] covered hillocks due to lateral pressure and rising to heights of 200 to 400 feet above the general level of the glacier. &#13;
	Many interesting observations were made not only of a geographical nature but also illustrative of features of rock and valley formations and of structural phenomena of glaciers, some of which have, we believe, never yet been described, which are developed to an unusual degree on this great glacier. Also a large collection of photographs, panoramas, and telephotographs illustrative of the points observed was secured. &#13;
	The expedition was accompanied by the guide Savoye and their Italien porters all of [indecipherable]. &#13;
&#13;
Very sincerely yours, &#13;
F. Bullock Workman&#13;
W. Hunter Workman&#13;
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                <text>Handwritten letter from William Hunter Workman to Harrington Putnam dated October 30th, 1911 and sent from Srinagar in Kashmir. The letter describes details of a trip the Workmans took the previous summer to the Himalaya region where they explored the Siachen Glacier and the Bilapho Glacier.</text>
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                <text>Typed trip notes describing a trip by Dr. and Mrs. Bullock Workman to the upper Chogo. The notes describe the activities of the expedition and mention a cairn built by the party to replace a previous cairn which had been destroyed by an avalanche. The note appears to have been written in 1903.</text>
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                <text>Copy of Mrs. Fanny Bullock Workman and Dr. William Hunter Workman’s certificate of honorary membership in the American Alpine Club dated May 2, 1914.</text>
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                <text>Photo from Workman, F., &amp; Workman, W. (1908). Ice-bound heights of the Mustagh; an account of two seasons of pioneer exploration in the Baltistan Himálaya. New York: C. Scribner's Sons.</text>
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                    <text>DORA KEEN H ANDY
1871–1963
Mrs. Handy died January 31, 1963, in Hong Kong on a journey around
the world, active to the end and doing just what she wanted to. Only a
year before she had told a friend that when her time came she would want
it that way, which was typical of her. Her father was the famous Philadel­
phia surgeon, Dr. W . W . Keen, a climber who registered in Riffelberg
Visiters B oo k on August 8, 1865 only three weeks after the Matterhorn
accident. She graduated from Bryn Mawr in 1896. She had been a member
of the A. A.C. since 1907 and attended the Annual Dinner less than two
months before her death.
At a time when few women climbed, at the turn of the century, she
had begun to attract attention with her climbing in the Alps and else­

�where and had at least one illustrated article in T h e N ational G eog raphic
Magazine as a result. Hardly five feet tall, she nevertheless had done many
of the good climbs in the Alps with her guide Ed Cupelin, who was
well over six feet.
In 1911 Alaska fascinated her. On the Kenai Peninsula, where she
went to see some of the huge Kodiak bears, she found in a prospector’s
cabin a copy of a U. S. Geological Survey report in which Mount Black­
burn (1 6 ,140 feet) was referred to as "never ascended and . . . worthy of
the hardiest mountaineer.” This was enough for her. Only Mount St. Elias
of the great Alaskan peaks had so far been climbed. The new Copper
River Railway (the subject of a novel by Rex Beach, T he I ron T rail)
from Cordova, had just been finished to the important copper deposits at
Kennicott only 35 miles from Mount Blackburn. There she went in all
haste and persuaded several local men to join her in the first attempt on
the huge, ice covered, extinct volcano. Taking provisions for twelve days,
starting at 1500 feet, they relayed up Kennicott Glacier, delayed con­
stantly by crevasses and soft snow, finally reaching 8700 feet amid the
roar of avalanches. Realizing that much longer would be needed, she gave
up for that season.
April, 1912, found her back again at Cordova, where she met George
W . Handy, in whom she had confidence, and invited him to join the
party. With six other men and dog sledges they started up Kennicott
Glacier on the 22nd. This time she was determined and would not be
stopped if it were humanly possible to succeed. Thirty-three days altogether
were spent on the snow and ice, 22 without tents and 10 almost without
food. Caves dug in the snow provided shelter up to 12,000 feet. From
there, in weather clearing after a succession of severe storms, she and
Handy reached the summit on May 19, 8 : 30 a .m . It had taken four weeks.
The view was perfect in every direction for up to 200 miles. The return
took three days to Base Camp and two more to Kennicott.
Later she and George Handy were married and visited other parts of
remote Alaska, finally settling on a farm in Vermont. After some years
they were divorced. For a while she sold insurance. In later years she
liked nothing better than to correspond with and meet members of parties
headed for the mountains of Alaska and to hear of their subsequent experi­
ences. My wife and I spent an hour with her last spring. She was alert, in
full possession of her faculties, and looking forward to plans for the
future which included travel, probably alone. She liked her independence.
She was a remarkable little person, full of confidence and wanting no one
to worry about her— she could manage quite well by herself.
H en r y S. H a ll , Jr.

�</text>
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                    <text>At the age of 24, a Smith College graduate, Barbara Polk was happily employed as the secretary of the Harvard biology
department. But in the spring of 1939, Clarkie, the mailman, convinced her to audition for a job opening at the New
England Museum of Natural History, whose leadership had just been taken over by an ambitious young mountaineer
named Bradford Washburn.
Barbara was so sure she didn’t want the job that she had her boyfriend double-park outside the venerable building in Boston’s
Back Bay. “I will make short shrift of this guy,” she told him. As Barbara later recalled, “I didn’t want to work in a dusty old
museum, and I definitely didn’t want to work for a crazy mountain climber!”
Brad was instantly smitten. And Barbara was surprised to find that the crazy mountain climber didn’t look anything like “the
pictures of explorers I had seen in picture books, pictures of men like Lewis and Clark.” Her stint as Brad’s secretary was
short-lived. The two were married on April 27, 1940. Three months later, with a trio of male teammates, Barbara and Brad
stood on the summit of Mt. Bertha, a 10,200-foot snow and ice peak near Alaska’s Glacier Bay, having forged the mountain’s
first ascent—this despite the fact that Barbara’s sole previous climb was a summer stroll up Mt. Chocorua in New Hampshire.
She found out in a Juneau hospital after the expedition that she was pregnant.
On September 25, 2014, Barbara Washburn died in her home in Lexington, Massachusetts, less than two months short of her
100th birthday. With her passing, America lost one of its truly great adventurers and pioneer climbers.
In 1941, Brad set his sights on an objective considerably tougher than Mt. Bertha—13,832-foot Mt. Hayes in the Alaska Range.
The same drive and vision that led Brad to transform the moribund Museum of Natural History into the world-class Boston
Museum of Science, and to revolutionize Alaskan mountaineering, made him a hard man to say no to. So when Brad insisted
that Barbara come along on the Hayes expedition, she said yes, even though it meant leaving a newborn daughter behind.
The only previous attempt on Hayes had been led by Brad’s close friend Charlie Houston in 1937. High on the north ridge, that
strong team had been stopped cold by a serpentine, corniced knife-edge. In 1941, after weeks of effort interrupted by
prolonged storms, Brad’s team faced the same ridge, clearly the crux of the route. And at that moment, Brad, Ben Ferris,
Sterling Hendricks, and Bill Shand put Barbara in the lead. Their rationale was that, as the lightest member of the team, if she
slipped or broke off a cornice and took a horrendous fall, she would be the climber the others would have the best chance of
safely belaying.
As Barbara wrote many years later, “I tried to appear calm and confident, but I was really trembling with fear as I climbed
ahead…. But I did not slip and none of the cornices gave way, and everyone followed safely behind me.” What was probably
the hardest bit of technical climbing Brad ever performed in his long Alaskan career was a ridge traverse led by his wife.
After a wartime separation during which Brad served as a consultant on cold-weather gear for the troops, he led his second
expedition to Mt. McKinley in 1947. Barbara was along again, despite her misgivings about leaving behind a family that by then
consisted of three young children. On June 6, outperforming most of her male teammates, she became the first woman to
stand on the highest point in North America. (The second female ascent of McKinley would not come for another two
decades.)
Barbara and Brad were married for 67 years. They were ideal companions and partners in the field, not only in Alaska but also
in such monumental projects as mapping the Grand Canyon (697 helicopter landings on obscure buttes and ledges in the
1970s). Late in life, Barbara started writing down sketches of her adventures, in a typescript intended only to serve as a legacy
for her children. But Alaska journalist Lew Freedman borrowed the only copy of the typescript, read it overnight, and
persuaded her to publish it as a memoir. The Accidental Adventurer (Epicenter Press, 2001) is a classic and a delight, every
page of which breathes the modesty and yet gumption of this extraordinary woman and explorer.
I knew Barbara for 50 years. The behind-the-scenes stories she told me about her life with Brad, and the hijinks and foibles of
their companions on various expeditions, easily could have filled another charming memoir. In 2008 I persuaded her to tell her

�life’s story to the Harvard Travellers
Club, an occasion she dreaded for
months beforehand. Her talk,
however, had the audience
alternatingly gasping and in stitches,
and many of us thought it was the
best presentation the club had
hosted in years.
Beginning in 1964, and continuing
for two decades, Barbara taught
kids with dyslexia and other reading
disorders at Shady Hill School in
Cambridge. Some of the most
gratifying rewards in her life came
when those tutees returned as
adults to thank her for steering them
along paths of professional success.
Barbara won many honors, including
the Centennial Award from the
National Geographic Society and an
honorary doctorate in science from
the University of Alaska. In the face
of such acclaim, she remained
eternally humble, even self-effacing.
In 1997, when the National Park Service celebrated the 50th anniversary of her ascent of Denali, she characteristically
addressed an audience in Talkeetna thus: “I reminded people that it wasn’t really my ambition to be the first woman to climb
Mt. McKinley. It just happened: I was an accidental mountaineer.”
David Roberts

�</text>
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        <name>Dublin Core</name>
        <description>The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/.</description>
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          <element elementId="50">
            <name>Title</name>
            <description>A name given to the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
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                <text>Barbara Washburn's Ice Axe</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="49">
            <name>Subject</name>
            <description>The topic of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="2284">
                <text>Artifact</text>
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              <elementText elementTextId="2285">
                <text>Equipment</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="41">
            <name>Description</name>
            <description>An account of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="2286">
                <text>A color photograph of Barbara Washburn's ice axe, her initials clearly visible on the side.</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="45">
            <name>Publisher</name>
            <description>An entity responsible for making the resource available</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="2287">
                <text>The American Alpine Club Library</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="40">
            <name>Date</name>
            <description>A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="2288">
                <text>2015</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="47">
            <name>Rights</name>
            <description>Information about rights held in and over the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="2289">
                <text>Copyright Andrew Bradberry</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="42">
            <name>Format</name>
            <description>The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource</description>
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              <elementText elementTextId="2290">
                <text>jpg</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="51">
            <name>Type</name>
            <description>The nature or genre of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="2291">
                <text>Photograph</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
        </elementContainer>
      </elementSet>
    </elementSetContainer>
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</itemContainer>
