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                    <text>DORA KEEN H ANDY
1871–1963
Mrs. Handy died January 31, 1963, in Hong Kong on a journey around
the world, active to the end and doing just what she wanted to. Only a
year before she had told a friend that when her time came she would want
it that way, which was typical of her. Her father was the famous Philadel­
phia surgeon, Dr. W . W . Keen, a climber who registered in Riffelberg
Visiters B oo k on August 8, 1865 only three weeks after the Matterhorn
accident. She graduated from Bryn Mawr in 1896. She had been a member
of the A. A.C. since 1907 and attended the Annual Dinner less than two
months before her death.
At a time when few women climbed, at the turn of the century, she
had begun to attract attention with her climbing in the Alps and else­

�where and had at least one illustrated article in T h e N ational G eog raphic
Magazine as a result. Hardly five feet tall, she nevertheless had done many
of the good climbs in the Alps with her guide Ed Cupelin, who was
well over six feet.
In 1911 Alaska fascinated her. On the Kenai Peninsula, where she
went to see some of the huge Kodiak bears, she found in a prospector’s
cabin a copy of a U. S. Geological Survey report in which Mount Black­
burn (1 6 ,140 feet) was referred to as "never ascended and . . . worthy of
the hardiest mountaineer.” This was enough for her. Only Mount St. Elias
of the great Alaskan peaks had so far been climbed. The new Copper
River Railway (the subject of a novel by Rex Beach, T he I ron T rail)
from Cordova, had just been finished to the important copper deposits at
Kennicott only 35 miles from Mount Blackburn. There she went in all
haste and persuaded several local men to join her in the first attempt on
the huge, ice covered, extinct volcano. Taking provisions for twelve days,
starting at 1500 feet, they relayed up Kennicott Glacier, delayed con­
stantly by crevasses and soft snow, finally reaching 8700 feet amid the
roar of avalanches. Realizing that much longer would be needed, she gave
up for that season.
April, 1912, found her back again at Cordova, where she met George
W . Handy, in whom she had confidence, and invited him to join the
party. With six other men and dog sledges they started up Kennicott
Glacier on the 22nd. This time she was determined and would not be
stopped if it were humanly possible to succeed. Thirty-three days altogether
were spent on the snow and ice, 22 without tents and 10 almost without
food. Caves dug in the snow provided shelter up to 12,000 feet. From
there, in weather clearing after a succession of severe storms, she and
Handy reached the summit on May 19, 8 : 30 a .m . It had taken four weeks.
The view was perfect in every direction for up to 200 miles. The return
took three days to Base Camp and two more to Kennicott.
Later she and George Handy were married and visited other parts of
remote Alaska, finally settling on a farm in Vermont. After some years
they were divorced. For a while she sold insurance. In later years she
liked nothing better than to correspond with and meet members of parties
headed for the mountains of Alaska and to hear of their subsequent experi­
ences. My wife and I spent an hour with her last spring. She was alert, in
full possession of her faculties, and looking forward to plans for the
future which included travel, probably alone. She liked her independence.
She was a remarkable little person, full of confidence and wanting no one
to worry about her— she could manage quite well by herself.
H en r y S. H a ll , Jr.

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In Memoriam</text>
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                <text>&lt;a title="AAJ 1963 Dora Keen" href="http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196346500/Dora-Keen-Handy-1871-1963" target="_blank"&gt;The American Alpine Journal&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>Copyright the American Alpine Club</text>
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                  <text>Women's History Collection</text>
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                  <text>Copyright the American Alpine Club</text>
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                <text>Dora Keen Ice Cliff</text>
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                <text>Photograph of ice cliff and snow. Caption, handwritten in pencil on the front of the photo reads “Ice cliff - cause of avalanche in gulch.” Date is unknown though likely about 1912</text>
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                  <text>March, 2015</text>
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            <element elementId="47">
              <name>Rights</name>
              <description>Information about rights held in and over the resource</description>
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                  <text>Copyright the American Alpine Club</text>
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            <name>Title</name>
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                <text>Dora Keen Lecture Pamphlet</text>
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                <text>Mountaineering</text>
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            <name>Description</name>
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                <text>A pamphlet advertising lectures on mountaineering and adventure by Dora Keen. </text>
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            <name>Source</name>
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                <text>The American Alpine Club Library Archives</text>
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                <text>Early 20th century</text>
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                <text>Pamphlet</text>
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                  <text>The American Alpine Club</text>
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                <elementText elementTextId="13">
                  <text>March, 2015</text>
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              <name>Rights</name>
              <description>Information about rights held in and over the resource</description>
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                  <text>Copyright the American Alpine Club</text>
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              <description>A language of the resource</description>
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              <text>“Dear Miss. Keen :- When, last Sunday, the news appeared that you had finally achieved the ascent of Mt. Blackburn, I wished to send you a message, but did not know how to reach your returning party. All I did was to mark the Tribune, and mail it to Mrs. Bullock-Workman, who will learn of your rivalry in the western world. By letter this morning from Dr. Keen, I have your post office address and to-day send a message: “Alpine Club congratulations on your conquest over Mt. Blackburn”, which I hope will reach you. Allhere hope that not only were you successful in the climbing part of your trip, but that your films and camera have brought back the views of the difficulties that you have so successfully overcome. Adding also my personal congratulations, I remain sincerely yours, Harrington Putnam, President.”</text>
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                <text>Mountaineering Expeditions</text>
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                <text>Letter from Harrington Putnam, AAC President at the time, to Dora Keen dated June 1st, 1912 congratulating Dora Keen on her first ascent of Mt. Blackburn.</text>
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              <elementText elementTextId="1763">
                <text>The American Alpine Club Library Archives</text>
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                <text>6/1/1912</text>
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                <text>Correspondence</text>
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