280 10 5318 https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/6539f5b3995eefb63989215748c09cc4.pdf 96202940ce06850036faaf3ddffd88de PDF Text Text Desert Spires Spider Rock, Cleopatra’s Needle, Totem Pole Climbing Pictures with Original Articles and Selected Reading Jerry Gallwas Mark Powell Don Wilson with Bill Feuerer on the Totem Pole 1 �Table of Contents Subject Page Introduction 3 Acknowledgements 4 Background 6 Players 7 Equipment 8 Spider Rock 13 Cleopatra’s Needle 29 Chimney Rock 36 Totem Pole 37 Appendix 52 2 �The Desert Spires Spider Rock, Cleopatra’s Needle, & the Totem Pole Introduction and Personal Recollections with Original Articles, Pictures, and Selected Reading Materials Jerry Gallwas The desert spires of the southwestern US were little known to the climbing community prior to the ascents of Ship Rock in 1939 and Agathlan in 1949. It wasn’t until the mid-­1950s with the first ascents of Spider Rock, Cleopatra’s Needle, and the Totem Pole that more widespread interest developed. This period has been well documented by Eric Bjørnstad in his classic climber’s guide to the southwest canyon country, Desert Rock, published in 1988 by Chockstone Press. In recent years, I have been asked for my recollections of the early desert spire climbs made over 50 years ago. I find that my memories have faded and the Kodachrome transparences have degraded. In January 2007, I had a call from Steve (Crusher) Bartlett about photos taken on the first ascents. I took most if not all of the Spider Rock and Cleopatra’s Needle pictures and Bill (Dolt) Feuerer took all of the Totem Pole photos. Steve spent two days capturing high resolution digital scans of my collection, some number of which are included in this document. The Totem Pole Dolt photos, besides the ones given to me by Dolt after the climb, are in the possession of Don Lauria. Don graciously spent a day with me at his home in Bishop, California going through the entire collection and a number of those photos are included herein. The purpose of this document is to bring together the original publications, many of which are obscure, with the photos of these first ascents for use by family and friends. I have added my comments to elaborate and in some cases have tried to correct misimpressions. There is no commercial intent. Beyond that, copies will be sent to the American Alpine Club library along with the digitized images to provide the most complete record possible in one document. 3 �Acknowledgements Publications The original publications recording the first ascents are generally obscure and limited in their availability. To give the reader easy access, I have copied the articles into this document as well as selected summary documents to give perspective to those not familiar with the subject of these desert spires or the Southwest. 1. Mugelnoos (MN), a monthly news bulletin published by and for the Ski Mountaineers and Rock Climbing Sections of the Los Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club. 2. Sierra Club Bulletin (SCB), a publication of the Sierra Club, San Francisco, California. 3. Ascent, the Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Sierra Club, San Francisco, California. 4. Summit Magazine, Co-­Publishers & Editors: Jene M. Crenshaw and H. V. J. Kilness, Big Bear Lake, California. (Summit Magazine rights now owned by Jim Ellis of Eagle, Idaho.) 5. Arizona Highways, published by the Arizona Department of Transportation, Phoenix, Arizona. 6. The Utoco Torch, published by the Utah Oil Refining Company, Salt Lake City, Utah. 7. Desert Rock, A Climber’s Guide to the Canyon Country of the American Southwest Desert, Eric Bjørnstad, Chockstone Press, Denver, Colorado. 8. The National Geographic Magazine, National Geographic Society, Washington D. C. 9. The Saturday Evening Post, Independence Square, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. 4 �Acknowledgements People Many people are to be thanked for assistance in the assembly of this document and include: Mark Powell and Don Wilson for their friendship, participation in these ascents, and publications recording our desert spire adventures. To Mark, also, for his review of this document. Bill (Dolt) Feuerer for his wonderful pictures of the Totem Pole. Don Lauria for his assistance and access to the Dolt photo archives. John Ripley for his assistance and access to the Mugelnoos archives. Steve (Crusher) Bartlett for the inspiration to put this document together, the superb digital images of my Kodachrome transparencies from the desert spires, and his meticulous proofreading. Eric Bjørnstad for our brief telephone conversation that led me to read Desert Rock and learn more about the desert southwest than I had previously known as well as his publication of the Eiger Sanction Totem Pole article in Summit Magazine. Then of course, there is the retrieval and return of the Totem Pole summit register which now resides in the collection of the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum in Golden, Colorado. Sandy Krishnamurthy, my wife, for putting up with all this nonsense and proofreading with good humor. 5 �Background Royal Robbins, Don Wilson, and I began our climbing adventures in the early 1950’s. The benefit of nylon rope was well established but climbing gear in general was still rather primitive. Pitons were of soft steel and bent easily, climbing shoes were simply tennis shoes, and the techniques of free and aid climbing were still under development. Royal and Don started at Stoney Point in Chatsworth north of Los Angeles and I in Mission Gorge north of San Diego. The three of us met and climbed actively together at Tahquitz Rock near Idyllwild, California beginning in 1952. We went on to Yosemite Valley in 1953 where Royal and I did the second ascent of Yosemite Point Buttress and the three of us the second ascent of the North Face of Sentinel Rock. Those experiences led to discussions of what we might consider as the next step in our climbing aspirations and two ideas surfaced. The Northwest Face of Half Dome was obvious while the sandstone spires of the Four Corners area were intriguing. Don and I went onto explore both Half Dome in the summer of 1954 and the desert spires during Easter week of 1955. We were both students at the time while Royal was employed at Union Bank in Los Angeles. The three of us teamed with Warren Harding in the summer of 1955 to attempt what is now referred to as the Regular Route on Half Dome. However, for some reason Royal’s interest was not drawn to the desert spires. Don and I had come to know Mark Powell. I met him during Easter week of 1954 when the two of us climbed the Lower Cathedral Spire in Yosemite. He visited Tahquitz where the three of us discussed the desert spires and over the Easter week of 1956 climbed Spider Rock in Canyon de Chelly. That began the sequence of climbs recorded herein. 6 �The Players Mark, Jerry, Don, & Dolt Totem Pole summit Gallwas collection Mark Powell in Yosemite Dolt photo Jerry Gallwas in the Sierra Gallwas collection Don Wilson at Tahquitz Rock Gallwas photo 7 �The Equipment Publications, that include an article about the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome or the desert spires, often comment about the pitons used. As an example, in the Bjørnstad publication Desert Rock, there is a comment about the “special aluminum channel pitons that worked in the often flaring wide cracks, made for Jerry Gallwas at the suggestion of John Salathé.” Layton Kor in Beyond the Vertical, credits the angle pitons used on the Totem Pole to Bill Feuerer. “The first ascent of the Totem Pole was by the Californians Mark Powell, Don Wilson, Bill Feuerer, and Jerry Gallwas. The climbing was almost exclusively artificial and wide aluminum channel pitons (the forerunner of the Bong-­Bong), made by Feuerer, were used extensively.” More recently, Huber and Zak comment in Yosemite, Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing “They forged their own Lost Arrows as well as early Knife Blades”. To clarify the hardware issue, when I began climbing in 1951, the only sources of pitons were those from Europe and Holubar Mountaineering Equipment in Colorado. The pitons were nicely designed, relatively expensive, and made of soft steel hence were short lived as they bent easily. The benefits of hardened steel were clear from the Anton Nelson article, Five Days and Nights on the Lost Arrow that appeared in the March1948 issue of the SCB. A picture of the Salathé designed pitons was included in the article, see page 10. A fortuitous event in the Spring of 1952 provided a solution to the soft steel piton problem. While on a backpacking trip to Carizzo Gorge (east of San Diego) with Omar Conger (a climbing friend) we found a blacksmith’s anvil in a deserted mine. We discussed the possibility of forging our own alloy pitons in the style of Salathé and decided to carry the anvil five miles back to the car. The anvil was heavy but there were two of us. A friend of Omar’s, Bud Bernhard, had a machine shop in Coronado (across the bay from San Diego) so we found ourselves on non-­ climbing weekends learning to make horizontal and wafer pitons. We developed a Salathé-­like design copied from the pictures in Nelson’s SCB article. They were made using aircraft steel, 4130 chromium molybdenum, which I bought from a local metal supplier. Another climbing friend, Henry Mandolf, arranged to have the finished pitons heat treated to the hardness of Salathe’s. 8 �The angle pitons, in contrast, were made from soft steel, as were Salathé’s. They were in two configurations. One was a standard triangular cross section angle piton with a rather sharp taper for flaring cracks of the variety found at Joshua Tree National Monument. The second was from channel stock with a slightly rounded but nearly flat back and a more slight, nearly parallel taper for cracks found at Tahquitz Rock and Yosemite. They ran up to 2.5 inches in width and could be placed back to back to span wider cracks. To deal with very thin cracks in granite rock, we used knifeblade pitons fashioned after the design of Chuck Wilts, made at the direction of Henry Mandolf by one of his machinists. These were of 4130 chromium molybdenum steel and hardened as well. When expansion bolts were required, we used the standard “Dryvin” with a lead expansion shield and nail available at most hardware stores, 3/8” x 1.5” for granite and 3/8” x 2.0” for sandstone. Bolt hangers with holes for the bolt and carabiner were made from standard 1/8” aircraft aluminum sheet stock. For climbing on the volcanic plugs along the Colorado River north of Yuma, Omar Conger created some four-­ and five-­inch bolts. One style was made from a 3/8” piece of standard screw stock with the end ground to a taper which was driven into a lead expansion shield. The second was from 3/8” steel rod with a welded eye and four teeth on the end created by cutting parallel to the axis of the rod with a hacksaw, then grinding the teeth to sharp points. For the desert spires, angle pitons were the most useful as few cracks were narrow enough to take even a wide horizontal with the longer and wider angles serving more effectively. Aluminum bongs only appeared later and were independently developed by Tom Frost and Dick Long for use in much wider cracks such as those found on El Capitan. 9 �Salathé certainly influenced my design but unfortunately, I never met him or had direct contact. Lost Arrow pitons appeared in the 1960s and the name is a trademark of Chouinard and later, Black Diamond. However, characterizing the pitons I made in the 1950’s as “Lost Arrows” communicates the design much more effectively today than the much more obscure Salathé reference. Salathé horizontal and angle pitons, SCB, Vol. 33, No. 3, pp.102-­103, March 1948, Anton Nelson Gallwas horizontal and angle pitons used on Half Dome & the desert spires 10 �Hardware Comparisons Salathé horizontals “Dryvin” expansion bolts 3/8 X1.5 in for granite 3/8 X 2 in for sandstone Gallwas horizontals Mandolf copy of Wilts’ knifeblade Gallwas angles Wilts & Sherrick knifeblades Salathé angles Notice the flat backs Bolts designed for volcanic plug use by Omar Conger 11 �Picacho del Colorado Climbing on volcanic rock required 4” or 5” expansion bolts created by Omar Conger Gallwas photos 12 �Exploring the Desert Spires When Don and I toured the Four Corners area over the Easter Holiday in 1955, our first stop was Canyon de Chelly. We arrived just at dusk and stopped by a low rock wall at Spider Rock Overlook to view the canyon. We stepped up on the wall and just three feet away, the canyon dropped off over a thousand feet to reveal the stark beauty of Spider Rock. We would return! Spider Rock, March 30, 1956: MN, No. 280, p. 2, April 12, 1956, Don Wilson and SCB Vol. 42, No. 6, pp. 45 to 49, June 1957, Don Wilson. Easter week, 1956, Mark, Don, and I drove Mark’s chartreuse Ford convertible through the night to arrive in Chinle the following afternoon. After checking in with Superintendent, John Aubuchon, we went to the canyon rim to give Mark his first glimpse of the spire. Don and I held back letting Mark view Spider Rock as we had done the year before in the drama of the late afternoon shadow. Yes, he too was impressed! I had written the Superintendent requesting permission to climb and he in turn presented our request to the Navajo Tribal Council. Accompanying the request was a copy of the Saturday Evening Post article (February 25, 1956, by Hal Burton, They Risk Their Lives for Fun) about the Robbins, Harding, Wilson, Gallwas Half Dome attempt the year before as one of our qualifications to climb. Much to our relief and appreciation, the Council approved our request. It was a cold week in the canyon with freezing temperatures and high winds. We camped by the river, our only source of water, which was heavy with red silt and required boiling to both sterilize the water and precipitate the silt. There were many memorable moments but after a long cold week and an exhilarating view from the summit, we returned to the car late in the evening to find all that was left was a can of peaches and half a jar of pickles. Chinle was without a hotel or restaurant in those years so we downed the peaches and pickles and crawled into our sleeping bags. The drive home was filled with talk of what we might climb next. Mark had seen a picture of Cleopatra’s Needle in a travel advertisement. That became our next target. 13 �Canyon de Chelly Spider Rock from Spider Rock Overlook taken in 1955 during the reconnaissance trip. Superintendent John Aubuchon was our gracious host during the week in the Canyon and facilitated our negotiation with the Tribal Council. We were very grateful for the opportunity to climb on this sacred ground. Most appreciated was his driving us down the canyon and back to the car after our decent from the summit. Gallwas photos 14 �Spider Rock As seen when driving up the Canyon The climbing route begins with a chimney separating the two summits Gallwas photos 15 �First pitch The perfect chimney between two summits Don led up the chimney Gallwas photo Mark followed Don then started up the main spire Gallwas Photo 16 �SCB, Vol. 42, No. 6, pp. 45-­49, June, 1957, Don Wilson (right) MN, No. 280, p. 2, April 12, 1956, Don Wilson (above) 17 �SII'.RRA CLUB BUU.ETIN TUB Flli$T ASCBJIT OJ' SPJDBR ROCIC In this country. Climber.> had been aware of the large number of fantastic towers In the desert canyons of W Four Come-rs area; howe\-er, except for the volcanic plup, Shipro<k and Agathlan, which are more mountain· ous than spireUke, the deoert was an und....Joped cUmbing cfutrict. Now with n..rly all granite summits cUmbed we wore accepting the c:ballenge. In addi:lon we bad ad~ a desire 10 li~ up to the faith of those Indians wbo bole~ we eould dimb Spider Rock, or to show those wbo beliewd we eoui!ID'L In the momin3 we made a reconnalssanc:e Into the valley by way of the Bat TraiL A little later in the season we could ha\-e ridden up the c:&D)'OD in a jeep, but only a week before a \-ehicle had been loot in the quicbands of the rh..,. It was dear from the ba!< that the most feasible route started oo the north side, in chimneys which led toward the notch bet,.... the two tower.> of the ro<k. A ''elY blank wall, bowe.-er, sq>arated the nol<h from craclts on the main spire. These cram approached the chimne)'t lower down, and above ended in a dark ucess whicb we named the Block Hole. The roof of the Black Hole o~rhung horizontally and the overhanging bollomlcsa chimney that followed looked as if it might be the au• of the climb. Beyond this, the cfutance pr~nted a gnod judg· mcnt olthe probsbllllles, although it was encouraging to see that a large ledge about 200 feel from the top provided posoibiUty of a comfortable bivouac. We returned to park headquarter5 aod informed M r. Aubuchon that we would try the climb. Monday we packed our gear into t he <Anyon and made a <Amp a t the loot of the dirt slope around the rock. The muddy river served as water supply; thb early In the year the I ndians had not yet moved thelr animals Into the CAnyon. Our packs were heavy with climbing equipment. Thb included nearly a thou !!and feet of nylon line, pitons, carabiner.>, bolts and hange.., and bivouac clothing. When It was later assembled at the bivouac ledge we were omaud how mucb we had carried up. Much of the hard· ware was nevtr wed. Tbe bolts were star drive-ins, two inches long and three.efahtha In diameter-a large size appropriate in ,..dston.. It took only a few minutes to place one. All of them wore left with hangers except a couplt that I ell out. ln t.h! afternoon we started the climb. Two pitons got the leader off the ground and into the Initial narrow chimney. This chimney, although t<Ch· nically easy, turned out to be one of the miseries of the trip. It wore out our shoes and abraded our knees ao that they wore still sore and tender a week later. Above the cbockstone ending the first pitch, the chimney narrowed to about eight lacbea and ovubung a tr!Oe. As Jerry on the ground encour· aged me to try It, Mark and I lised up a ledge around the cornor and 011 the face. This looked til<e a more comfortable way out and Mark reached loc a handbold from whicb he mi&ht swine 10 the led~¢. The bold fell off, ltaving smoothotu. Now a bolt wu ......ary. Above the ledge was no real cnc.k, but t®&b st«l pitons made one. High« a ...,00 bolt ....., needed and Mark chipped an.y a oqoare surfoce about an luch deep ill ordor to get less wealhored rock. The bole driDed last, and wbea the nan wu dri- ill Mark was able 10 pull it out with his 6Dg<n. A secood oue bold bettu,and we came down ltavin& a fil<ed tine. The climb bad begun, but ~ far our ropes 'l)llnncd only an insignif.cant fraction of th~ .spire.. The following morning Jerry and I prepared to continue the attad:. Ma.rk was to bike to the car for food. Our milk was frozen in the river but we neglected to acc<pl thlJ warning and started up in our usual tee shirts and light parkas. We were surprised to tind that we were still cold wbtn we roached the top of the pru!>i.k lines. Alter gaining about 30 feet we wereoo cold that we could hardly bit the drill holder. A belay stance 'OrA.' ~~tAhli'hM with hnh~, Anti .,,. m[WI Mwn and rAn nut intn lhP. ~un . Our morale wu now very low a,nd our vaeatlon half gone. We were un.. able to fort~ettbe climb and appre<:late the day of!. While we - • feeling lonely we hesrd the falntoound ol an engine i.n the distance, and a little later Aubuchon arrived witb our first jeep load of visitors. Tbe canyon was now open to jeep travel, and although It wru; about 10 miles and took an hour ond a hal£, spectators came !rom Chinle to watch the climb. Today we dl!!appolnted them, but our ropes showed that we had been wherr it didn't look posoible to go. One Indian asked if we would leave our ropes fi•ed when we finished the climb; he would like to climb Spider Rock on them. \Ve said we were .sorry, but that it would cost a hundred and fifty dol1a11 to do to. We entertained the Indians with a demonstra· tion ol the we of pitons-the kind which hold a person's weight but pull out wbtn jerked. Later in the day news reached us that it would get warmer, which rabed our spirits. We enjoyed and photographed the beauty of tbc canyon In the late aftornoon. Wednesday was a big day. We reached the Black Hole and worked to the top of tho overbanglna chimney above. A Cued tine ,.... needed hore even for the linal dexent, for without such a guide line a rappel would have ended on the blaDk face 30 feet to the le!L We were now high enough that hours wore loot In pn1$ilting up in the morning and rappelling dOWD in tho afteroooo. Tomorrow we would reach the big ledge and spend the aighI there. 18 �Mark below the Black Hole Gallwas photo ( ) 19 �Jerry & Mark above the Black Hole climbing to the bivouac ledge Gallwas collection 20 �View of the canyon from the bivouac ledge Gallwas photo Postcard sent to Jerry’s parents Mark with Don in the background after a cold bivouac on the morning of the last day Gallwas photo 21 �Mark above the bivouac ledge Gallwas photos 22 �SIH.RRA CLU!l !lULUITIN Since thtrt was s.now in protected corners on the ground and the ri\'et froze .-~ry night, we knew we would need lots of clothing. 1n the .--...ing we prtl)ared bh'Ouac itemJ, placing tbetn in • duflle ba& with a heavy • ipper and braced with nylon line. This Is better for hauling than •• angt~lo.r pack which gels stuek in every corner. Witb sweaters, nylon overalls, food, a hendlamp, and one gallon of water the sack weighed about forty pounds. The plan wu lor Jerry ond Mark to signal me to bring up llle sad when they were sure they could roach the ledge the next day. Tla.e following doy, thepitdl above tMow.rUn,s: tumed01.1t lobe aloog Don and Mark on the summit aacl, too wide Cor pitons il.Dd too narrow to get into. At the top, a rotten gJIIy entered a tunnel under a block on which we hoped to bivouac. I n acbed the top ollhelowen rope and pulled up the pack band over hand. 1 renllzed that I could not do this for several hundred feet. In addition, at each anebor a rope must be coiled and added to the load, as well as hardware which bad been left behind. SomtOnt left me a <Oat for good ~U&S~Jre. With thU w<i&ht 1 ....., worried about dropping O\-erythlng. A!so, if it sot stuck l would not bave the help necessary to free the load. The only ufe t.bln.g was to attach it aU to my waist and let it hang down a Sew f<el. Then, with hall my own weight added to me, 1 pruslked 300 feet to the Block Hole where Mark took the lo>d with a rope from above. We aU got to the ledge, and .. the day ended Mark made a tilth-clasa !tad •• the ...n abo\'e. Alter 10m< eanntd saUJ>g<s ond gnmdrops, "~put aU our clothing on, ud tried to sJ..p as mueb as possible, not so much for rest as for shorunil1g the period of consciousness of the cold. But u large as our ledge wa.<, it wos not smooth and a comfortable position was not pOssible. We were litd in, of course, to prevent rolling on, :tnd it Wil!l this ft'Ct that la:ttr became dramatized In the neW>P"P"" to "they spent the night Wbed to tle cliff." We watched the sunrise and then walttd for the SUD 10 hit us btfort brealdo.sting. II was only 200 more f..l 1>0'11'. The rtmaining face wu wry smooth except for a fracture zone to our ri&bt. The crack divided nicely into lour pitches, with spacious belays In caves !omed by falling out of rotten rocks. The price wns p:1ld for th.,. b<lay• in the overhanging roof• which hod to be p:lSS<d to start the nec<eding pitches. It looked aslf II would be dill\cultto get bock Into these hoiH on the rope.<~.,...-,: and we were happy to see a small led&< hal!,...y 10 the summit on the Olh<.....U. blank lou above the bi,'Ouac spoL Jerry lat<r placed two bolts on it and we bad tbt thrill of slipping from a seal«! position off the ledge and Into the mppel. The last pitch was lifth·clllss, Gallwas photo 23 �Don and Mark on the summit with Spider Rock shadow Gallwas photo 24 �Views from the Summit Mark & Don with the cairn Don Gallwas photos 25 �Spider Rock Summits from Spider Rock Overlook. Note Don in the white T-­shirt, see p. 23, and Mark on the right side of the summit next to the cairn. Aubuchon photo Gallwas photo 26 �Mark rappelling from the summit Gallwas photos 27 �The NPS press release found its way into many newspapers Dolt Photos Mark, Don, & Jerry from Ascent, 1970 page 31 28 �Cleopatra’s Needle MN No. 286, p. 3, October 11, 1956, Don Wilson On Labor Day weekend, the three of us and Don’s wife, Nancy, bundled into Don’s VW Beetle with our climbing gear and drove to the Valley of Thundering Water. See page 13 for background. This travel advertisement attracted Mark’s attention Source unknown 29 �Cleopatra’s Needle was Elusive! Mark had first seen the picture in a travel advertisement but finding Cleopatra’s Needle took some searching. Notice Don’s comment on the postcard below. Google Earth was not yet available! 30 �Cleopatra’s Needle The spire as we arrived in Don’s VW Beetle seen at the base Gallwas photo Viewed from the opposite side Gallwas photo 31 �Cleopatra’s Needle Don scrambling at the base just after we arrived Gallwas photos Viewed form the opposite side 32 �Jerry replacing the piton ladder that Don had placed the afternoon before Gallwas collection 33 �Mark placing a bolt at the overhang Gallwas photos Mark and Don on the summit 34 �SCB Vol. 42, No. 6, pp. 63-­4 June, 1957, Don Wilson Mark and Don on the summit Jerry rappelled from the top to take this picture Gallwas photo 35 �Chimney Rock, Bill Williams Mountain On the return trip from the Labor Day weekend 1956 ascent of Cleopatra’s Needle, we stopped at Bill Williams Mountain and climbed Chimney Rock. Right, Mark and Don on the summit, Jerry is at the base of the pitch. No sign of an earlier ascent was found. It was a short 6th class climb. The first free ascent was by Mark Powell and Bob Kamps (5.9 or 5.10) July 28, 1967. Gallwas collection 36 �Totem Pole Summit Magazine, Vol. IV, No. 4, April 1958. pp. 8-­11, Mark Powell and SCB Vol. 43, No. 9, p. 72, November 1958, Don Wilson. The first ascent of the Totem Pole was the culmination of the Easter Holiday scouting trip that Don and I made in 1955. In June,1957, Don, Mark, and I returned to the desert with Bill Feuerer to climb in even higher winds but fortunately higher temperatures than we had experienced on Spider Rock. I was a student at San Diego State College and had final exams the first week of June. Don and Mark’s schedules allowed their arrival in Monument Valley early that week. I finished my last exam at noon and left for Monument Valley in my recently rebuilt 1942 Ford Jeep. I had made a test drive to Idyllwild three weeks earlier and had driven it back and forth to school so I felt confident in its reliability. It had no top so it was quite wet during the thunderstorm driving north of Prescott but I arrived in Flagstaff that evening only to have the Jeep starter solenoid fail. I spent the night in a hotel and had the solenoid replaced the following morning, then drove the final miles to the Goulding’s Trading Post. During the family style meal that evening in the trading post dining room, Don, Nancy, Mark, and Bill brought me up to date on the progress that had been made. Don and Mark had graciously saved the summit pitch lead for me the next day. Meeting Bill was a surprise. I had only expected Don, Nancy, and Mark for the climb. Bill turned out to be a very likeable guy and a great photographer. That was fortunate because he captured a wonderful photo record of the climb. The following morning, we piled into the Jeep and drove to the base of the Totem Pole followed by a caravan of sightseers and the Goulding’s green, four wheel drive tour bus. The wind was fierce. The story of the ascent is well told in articles by Mark in Summit Magazine and Don in the SCB. So ended a great climbing partnership between Don, Mark, and me. A few weeks later I climbed the Northwest Face of Half Dome in Yosemite with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick, Mark teamed with Warren Harding and Bill Feuerer to begin the ascent of the Nose of El Capitan, and Don went onto become an assistant professor of biology at Stanford University. 37 �Mark, Don, and Nancy waiting out the rain in Monument Valley Dolt photo Jerry prusiking on the way to the summit pitch, Summit Magazine, April, 1958 Jerry with his 1942 Ford Jeep Gallwas collection Dolt photo 38 �Summit Magazine Vol. IV, No. 4, pp. 8-­11, April 1958, Mark Powell Four Californians Scale the Spectacular 14 ..Totem Pole" -- _. ..,.... .. _.,.._. _.... -............... .__.. ••dor .......... ._ .. ......_Aft Tte. . . . . .. .......... .. ...,.._.,. \'oP..,, • ,...,....,.~ oJ. _ .. •ftftoot.A.e ... ... - · ......... ,., ,_,. ·-- ........... ,..w. "'-"'"'•'··~-· .. c..oM ..._., n.,~oo,. 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"'- - ..... ·~· ....,.. ..... '"" .~ -·• -u ,_ "" - a.w...... .. . ... alo .. ,,., "--"· "" o-w~·· ........, ......,..,.,_...._....... .,.._.... _. n..,,..,._,..,. ..... .,. ... ...... ....,_ ..... ,.... c;..., .•..,....u--..n, ...,_...,_..,,. ___ ..... .,_ .... ..............-., ___ ., ...................... • • .o.lot .....( .... . , ........, ..... ..... .t oW _ , If " ' ••te ,. •-..., C)oo-.1... ...... w _, _ ..lk<.oq •• ! ......... ............... ". _ ............... .....-.&-"'"' ...__~ ~ ·..,J·-~ -. 39 �..A strong wind blows the climbers forty feettrom the rock" r•.. ,._, 11 •Mu~ ,.,.-u-1 .... ~~··- ,.....,.... ,. ..., d ......, .. ~-"~ ,......~._.,.. _,_., ~"' ~- ..,_., ,..-w•. """' '"'""f)' " r• w...... ....,.... ""'" • t.. ........ a.c' .. otll lib~ «r .., • •'-•· ,.ani<•l• •---14"_ ,_tr ..., ,.,. '"'• ~~ ScAld., •• - """'" 0.. u ui!Ok4 ~> ,....,, cW*"' • M ~ • .Jc• ,,.,.,. C'll. . wu •• liM aec,.......,, ,,.. ~ ·~·~ , . . , ... d . . ..tw.ll, • ltld• ....... fUCw.f W t,.....,_ ...,... .., •IN:• cl;.lwu '- ,.._,., 'fd #f• ... , ..... .....,,a,....... ............ lwt•r. I •w... ' " ' 4tj.WM(if . , ~ .. ,...lWI., ~4lf ... -~·..... ...-4 - .......... a.t.ued • ,-4 4ul ttl n~~eer~ 'l'il~ llill Mlat~. I ~ u M tM _,, •~flt.-11 •114 """' ""' ,.;tc• of •l>f ell""'- JIM• • fall 001 t tMtt ln..d-t~Mit JkH6 ~W lttM • C'Ueloc-J 4l..f1$11. . • .W.•It, I , &.et4 I • UpN'-- ..11, ••lof4 ., ,.,.,. • ,..... ,,,,., r.'"' A ...,.,. . .,• • • ,........ ~. I'Ul. a.W .... •"""' .., •-.,,.... r• •w • .-..... t••• .... .,::.. t.n, """ ~ ~ . . .-. .. ~· . . . . . . , ......~ ..lou - -... - .,.,......, .. k • th. <-a€• ..... ..... ........... . . anf.r"tl ., , ••, • ..... - '"" .4 •• """'• •••• "'"'- ...... At•~ toe-~~ ,.,,.., •ioN .,,.. 1'1ol C..WlllJ• •nc .,.,.., ...,it•"-· ,t.ti~ ,.. 111 t~«iu eol tiMJJ ••r ,.,..,, i• •-whoM .._,.,,_,. Sl••bl)' •••• k"· • ct6C'• ld Me-\ • • tlioe: ,., •I elM -u· h•11• •IW • ,..,,_:.ut ••II ••• '- • •l•r ~ HIM•I" . . .~~ott ....,,1\u., 4t dw c •ll diu nlftc .,,.,. "••lAIII, ... kfl • liu-4 h.-. .... ...... _, .-,u, •--'cc ,• .--,. O"wot• " ' - ' -· ... -.k«-M . ..,i..J ..,.k- r.c••· ··- .~, ~tc«« .,. '""'T - '- .,..,..... """- -~ v...,.... .. .... ,._-- •• difH - - · . ... ,... ....a.., •• , •'fl• •• ,.,..,. ........ -f.l, •1~;.,u.« ..1•• M!t..,_ - 1'- -·' --=..... .th•' ,...... 0\."f; . . ,.,.,. , o .. -.w • ~·l I•M, p&.c· .-.u ..,,_, • tk Tr.4•• T•r••r4ot,-.-~..,~ ._-..r M9n-•' V.tl•r· G.olh·•• •~tl•t<t ,. ""'""lt4. ... M Jllflt I )Ill, wit~ kiP ~IIPf.ll, • ..., •1.i1 .... 10 1\t ••..t lu11u, Cl1111IIU.• -""'''""'"'"._..·•otd•Ml•r il .t..,• ............. - ... ~---· w,... nc r-a ,...;-., ~._ ~·• -~ ft.M.l.., "'Jf«J"'• ..... -.uw ..... ... -·Mol ..... -- .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C'. .OH: - ~ .... ·-· • I - . ·. dor A flfrr p.}t ..,.,...., ....6,.;:k .. , .~ . ...... ~... o.a ... &ill • f•'•"'ll• prfti), . . . .. tNtu liM• I"• tt.• h• U ..,.., .,.., tilt l•-4 • l.....'""'llc• Noc\! 10 ~tarll 1t. •"•1~... ""~~.,..,a..,.,.,, alii • " ' " ti...J M«r l«l, • Mte tk • '-'• c-ue" ............. ........~., .._-. tif-f... WMII.. T\. • - ItS.,, _,.. ·-•i .. knJ ..-.c ..... 117 • lwto-..1 u•c\, •Wt• Mkl ..... '-• .. ,a-•• ' - aJJ ,_.• ....,... . ..,. ~ . . • II •"'••· ~. ~Jlontly ) ... ,. ~ ··~ . . . . . . . . . .. ..... ,., "·~ . . . C'. . . . . ..,, , k ..........,. I• •d-tr •uar...,, '~" •nil IORr fut l r - dw r«k. Tilt t iiiNIIt • u , ...,.,, fuc ~~~. •1111 • ...u uW.. .h.) • rtlhlt:r •» ~:tct:414. T•• no-f... u,..l.t. •ff do. - • •f'lt• wr.w •lf\l~td U. dnNM. n.r ,........ ow-..~ -u on,_.;.. "'Cff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..,....... . ~ •K•• &II u c:ttk. c .... ct...._, ..-1.11 4lt:c_, • - Lot'-" ,_, '"l"'"'''· Ft"9 tpeuoc• 40 �SCB Vol. 43, No. 9, p. 72, November 1958, Don Wilson. (Right) Totem Pole viewed from the north Swift photo 41 �Don leading up to the base of the spire on the afternoon of the first day Dolt photo Mark climbing above the bolt ladder Dolt photo 42 �Mark leading with Don belaying Dolt photo 43 �( Mark leading up to the base of the summit block Dolt photo 44 �Mark leading to the base of the summit block Mark approaching the base of the seamless summit Dolt photo. Dolt collection 45 �Summit block Jerry and Mark profiled against the sky Dolt photo 46 �Jerry at the summit Don prusiking Don and Bill prusiking to the summit Dolt photo Dolt collection 47 �Totem Pole Summit Photo Mark, Jerry, Don, & Bill That’s urine in the foreground No place to pee and lots of tourists watching Gallwas collection 48 �The film box register Recovered during filming of the Eiger Sanction. Now in the collection of the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum, Boulder, Colorado. Directly behind the cairn is a green speck which is the Goulding’s tour bus. Mark, Don, & Bill (below) Film box register & cairn Mark, Don, and Jerry (above) Dolt photo Dolt collection Goulding’s four wheel drive tour bus (above) Dolt photo Summit register Bartlett collection 49 �Totem Pole Navajo viewing the cairn Jerry arriving at the summit Gallwas collection 50 �Last Photo from the Totem Pole Adventure Mark, Jerry, Don, Bill Dolt collection 51 �Appendix Article Page The Utoco Torch, No. 189, pp. 5-­8, July 1957, Monument Valley, Tom Broadbent 53 Ascent, Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Vol. 1, No. 4, p. 30, May 1970, Four Corners, Steve Roper 57 Mugelnoos, No. 313, p. 1, January 8, 1959, Totem Pole – Second Ascent, Dave Rearick 58 Desert Rock, Desert Climbing History, pp. 16-­19, Navajolands, pp. 373-­377, Cleopatra’s Needle, pp. 377-­380, Spider Rock, pp. 383-­386, & the Totem Pole, pp. 414-­417, Eric Bjørnstad 59 The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. CXIV, No. 6, p. 830/831, December 1958, Better Days for the Navajos, Jack Breed 71 Summit Magazine, Vol. 22, No. 3, pp. 24-­29, June, 1976, The Totem Pole and the Eiger Sanction, Eric Bjørnstad 72 Arizona Highways, Vol. 61, No. 2, pp. 29-­35, February 1985, Clinging to a Crack on the Competitive Edge, John Annerino 75 Bartlett E-­mail, Totem Pole Climbing History 79 The Saturday Evening Post, Vol. 228, No. 35, pp. 34, 35, 99, 101, 102, February 25, 1956, They Risk Their Lives for Fun, Hal Burton 84 Superintendent Aubuchon Correspondence, Spider Rock 91 Postscript: Cleo Perspective and a Fun E-­mail from Steve Roper 92 52 �First Publication Recounting the 1st Ascent of the Totem Pole 53 �MONUMENT . / , A VALLEY ~,_ _ -· _ .......... .. ~ _...._ - ..... _ , _ . . dlwn. __,..._. ~-C""<'<Iw.....,_._..,. .............. ~__,._. •......_ A..~ .... ......... ..... ,....._,_.tw_.. .. ..,_.,_ _...., ..... ....,.,..,...._.. *~· b}!~ ..................... I'!,..A(_r~ha~........ hrmr,~ lnf!OI ~ - · l'fw , ...... ,.,., .,. • ,.._,. ~ wsnhar¥.., o.tr•nr. ht ~hn.J C...... ft...._ ~ t"<l ....'"1 U '..... -.tw ,..... _"'....,....l"'.t.--. J~ 'U"' 'f),r, ~- oA rile ..... rhn:Jinl 1 ••d ~-" ,...., C\.'v&J ..,orr t~J,,.. ..,,.. \;~o lrr I• • n.• wheN, 1o . . llt I,....,, . ."·-flllll' ~'r I<U, th.....,._ ...... w.lf,.... ·~ Jllj ... ca., .......u .... ,.,. ,.,.. ...-n ~ '""' ..._ ~""' .,........_.h -·..,.-.,,.._n_ """ '"•'· !he h.." ,...,... ~ " Ji.JKra;""CT T-•..,... liM" 0.~ f•nt ~w rhot \U. ~~. Aam.:w \\\,.fw-."f1h kT .n • t." ....,, Un .,. 19;1 ~ r---'fl BuiJ,D;nc, h<;<e: buc- ~· ....... ......... ,., ,. II_, .... \Wt • •• --. ..... ...,. ...."-* ,....., ~ lw "'"' ....a ..w.J .........~ "" tor"'! H..., fridtd l'lu ',.,..,... o!\1.., htw ...... th...-h hf' M~a.J ilmJ dhl _,,,._..., ~" "'' CWI~"'*'f" """rwlf 1t." lho-Y '"' N"al ,,., m•J.. ,./ ""'.. rhtrt lo "'""'rc f,., tilt tar ko1 rolri'WII' •hill h tWo...t..,J 1n h.. ftorlorr twn Mlll~·r.•lf ffl"- t~Cof"l"'' lw rht .,.,....._ TIM·n io t.11k .,. ""'"I r~rt rlw Jrv. '""'Pt.........., ........... """"- ,..~ 1ht«, "'Tlw ""'"'' tlul'ftl'fui..Joooh '""' C'l'\'f'k d lfwo L'nlllftJ ''' •n"'""' •• •IW ,..,.. otw-, ,..,.., "'' ,._ \nd!;lll'lllo" H. - bioi •• ,.,~, IIW!h the"''Ill .... 1111..... ·~""·~'~~ ,.., "'"'_,.r, c-:..rAt• .ft' ............. c:,,.,..,. • _," ,..., ~ ""' I ·• ~~ tho-r. tlwy ,,_..,,,.,. lll'lf'IIMh y ....., .... ,._"*' ....._,- ............ ac'CWC'..., '""""" "' ...... ,._.. ,....,,~ N 1lw \'•llory UII'ID .o,mn ,_, .... Mill )''lf fll-\1'4 t.1 ••"""' ..,. .......... Tiw'\.....,... ..... ... s,.,,.. ·- ,,r '"' 'i"'"' _,..,.,ftN~~. l'l'lik-hltlh ...." lifo " ~ltlr 11'111 II f!llll n 1lw •rHt rrJ .. ,._C<t1Wif tnd nrkf<oh-.'• h1.:l "'"'til"""'- ,.,. IYI''"" '"'"'"'IIJIIIII" ''n'"' thc'l _,,. lonall'r f'lt-v.l. .. 11'1! QIJ, "'*" ~l'fltml(!!l V11lky'l 'fbc. N.fljjlol ••• • r"' "'~' 1111..t ,, •11\'11 ~~ ' '"' •".,,,_,, • th..>n N"~·'-" t<> t<'t~ PJ""CC'tln~otm rnM! t~>lk, by n..v" lf'lln hb r'hm tiiN W 1\1 hiiV<I t YO'I(Il !Riht 1!1111? .,.,,..,.,.,, ,~ ('fc-fntll'!tl '" mak tl~or•r •• thdt •11•1' ' I hu•• '' l..t .,.n •:n, 11'1 rhtJr ll'lly, T'-.111 •vn,..'" ~ "thtll tlll'fll t•'Wkll hll• ....,...., ""' 11nJ \llllltivm .,..,,~•v ncor tiM: 'IQf\1 .lu•k, aho~t~•) mtnv ntiiR IIUY 'lllfl'ft h•lttf"r "'tr '/'I'U, •n•rtndv '' IIC'U ......,. ,,, lht "'"'' k~llht~· ...."' ''"'' ''" a'lolld h.Pr ' " c<t.... 1f l•OU '"" 111 •"- '-'rll•to.~ !rtMf"." """ .,l;~rtd t<l ~1\.'111 llllhl d~~t tolf'l\tw', fie ~•rot.vnc. ,,f M,,,~~.~- Vtl· an f"'''C'II(IWCI uol\f'IV ,,( 1h11 icy 4t fiVC ~ h il Nil"-" llw.rt 1)11•. v.tl"r ''"' ~·r..Y!.kd- ..<t.l..d ,.-tr. (,,.. itoJ ~·,..,.j.M, m •..._.,. fmm 1........ flo" It t111 \oc.ro <lilld ,,f 11\w \ •I *T th•t thtr. '"1 mt ,,.nr;t, •t!IJ •no.l •1"*--t """" ,_,,.. llw m•llo.•~ ,,( ..,.,. ...-d .,.w 'lilt~ wnl'l 1i'w .,.,.,If (•llltf''ft' jf """' " ' "'""" , .... tt<hn: ~~1 ,,l..l't(t- to~ 11o~ork • I'I'I'(M,,.,.., d•••.,. 1o11 1M n1.t"trr rhtr(. l'eol'ltl' ti-lt t• tlv oo!eft'l ,.( thr ~'" ,.ur~:t •....! JII'I'IIIY of llw """\'l.lf'lllllffy •IX )hll'l• ~ ~.\ ..,. wlwo In,. •n rht: \'•lin fhrTY G:"'""""' To~ 1\• tl'lli t,.o..:t.," t'-. ,...!,. rr..,. ......._, '•''"""--"' ""~ .. ..,,,. II•'""''/"'"\loll! --"'r..v Ham~" If'! ' " ' 1 ' •• , ..,.,...... .. .. _--.-............. ..-_ ....... .... ,_ .. _....... _.......--.-r...,....o.....,..-, .....,,~,.. _, ....._ "'- .-._., .,.. -... • U101l0 10RCif 54 �Mooumtrn Vlll<'f 1£\,. chlrJty by hcrdfnQ Jh«p AI:Killl.-.IJ and bJ Wtl'l• i~~~t fw fUllll, •nd blankw frOm tht In tMr l!»ft tift'W,, the Motn nut.:. huw:l~e fn,odry. ThotM •h• tflt't l1*<lt 11 tht: p.,:.c for w~t~r. C>31· '"'· floor, and ~<>.11\l«d shim. Hury G.luldins k thdt bef.t cau1•1• ln r~tm $iPf rh.J --~~ to «lwT p!Kta l.:w a lt . ~ at ~ldifli• ~. which un aoron:tl'l'ltdue ~hay, are t:lQtemt• ~ and ..,.,.the» h••lxm o:ll•nk t.:r~fot ''' •l•an. h •II DX~ ro !he N~va;io Tribllt CuuDCll It Wtnduw R.ock, where it " ~ eo ix:ncf'u the crctt ,;1 Ntvaj.,,. - w!» ln'C '" Ma""' "'" Arho)fll 11ld New McX'IO'), Tlx IP' proxim.t1dv tOO N~'\'lj() f•mil~ott m l\.._. 1.1:1'1. ,_., •·•tch dlot JUn oxanr: u;p ~·~• them. and whn'• ~. he: W\'Ut.l J.• It &aail'll The roomt have modem lh3wet, barb aM ~ f.Wuws T heu .rot no tdtpho;voo, lt D w_..,~ •bk to write aMad for informotk.'WI uwt r«MriON tO" Oouldtne'fl.otft,e, ~x.~ ~nee .dt.tm~~~ro. Ka~a. 1\f'i)l'ci"'You will be ht.locry .mr~ tM d•~:~· l'ltf bell '"*'· and you d.,.~·· "" i( e:MII&h, Jl Will be 11""' own f•ult. DiM« 0 fll"'iJ)' M.,fC IWUfld I Jon£ lv M<Xktn ud ~nl,•ublt. Si:rtl'lj:l '" nat&. p«nded 0'>'« by IIC'UIIi H1ny any room l\'lU u.n draw ba.::k tbe dnre- and l.......dc OUt 1~ 11 &I• Willi 11 :a htutllul1rw -1<-,111'10 l'l •1.'CI hii'!Votlf. The cort\lMIDY tro.">d IHDnT fWd w 1h11 ~t•• Mrd W\."'lk '"" be un- friendly., ~k_.mrot v.nq>. ~ monl&~ ~- cbe ~1 10 the iJ a \'lrittr of ckticiout rood, a.nd •II tan. Tbi& writtr C\'M up a.~ t1l0 ~Oono,_j- ...... ! I) -.-c -·-·..._..,.,-..... -·-""".-.._,-"'"., ......-·-... -·· ··-tJ--.. A . ._.~,..,...,.._ --· "•""" .,«.,. -·'-•..to61•9 ~··· - (- "'"• - ·- ·••let. r.. ll• -_ I U I ._, I f~ J' .......- . Ill . . .., _ _ ......- ioool.... "''__.......... - .. - .......... c.w..,.,~o..- left .. ,... o;..,.. _ _ _ ..n.o .. t;U - · · - · · ~~~ no... ..,.._. <MI......... oA .................. ..... ""l " " ' - - _.,. . _ ..,.,_. ,..._., • II• . . _ , .. II.. \110 ( 0 fOt(ll 55 �Climbing the Totem Pole has become problematic! The Bartlett E-­mail, pages 79-­83, records the history of early ascents. Gallwas photo 56 �Ascent, Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Vol. 1, No. 4, p. 30, May 1970, Four Corners, Steve Roper ._._,9oc)-~•~-v--.. ,., • ,., montb\ bolt! .. . . ... . &110 did 1 I'(II,IW • ll.ldl &all)' r.t•d ... ,...... _..., ._ IOd.ct.llllllt• n•..... ,. tiOft rocl. ~ _., •• :50 fctt hi... (ioofM (n"t NNdit it.OM ol dl.. diaD ...~..• .oa ooly otwn .,_,........................ u. T oou btl!(' .. ClllfotiiiNM. lloo , ...... . Jmy~W-­ Ihf ....,. 0..., • 195$ . . . . . . . 111 ~ d• ('he0Y N•I•OIItl )konv· - l tlwr h.cl lcum dw ~1!)'011 ................ ,...,.......,... loY.,,., .uamc:. udr • ~ foe. dw: U... /JI • ....,_ , tot'OIIW I)OII. ..... ._ ................... an~~p tMi 4il1W" "'t ...,.,.. AIW 1 tii<Ht '"'' ~ton, "''ihon. hf (1(1 M tM IMiflllt p~ch • 1-IC).f.oot cudt • . _ .... fGr 60h.t be'-~ . ....,. ........... ,. •• '*' "'· lillfd tU..t""Sfi*' ..... 800 fttt.Md ~ ... u..r..~~flffoe«'l,.. ,.. dw , . . f't(o~<ooc4 ~dl )obot f'o-.d. to eelltrll. u dlr\llii'Oilo .,_. M.lt. II~ unan.tfflld (t.- . , tup pt wrltd,. "1 . . . . . . . . . . . .- . . . . . . h ... .................. ....__ ................... .,1r ,., tl!. ...-r nc-"'Qw.kty · 11 .tw11_. •hlfl•ll. 11w V.'lbc. W!IOU btft , 'OW. \MWilb ll()ll ro.nb Wd Mil ....' hot onw I _ , ..._.. .,.. ea tOft r«k ~u· tMW"" _.o-f pi'* NMt di~t .Jdlud ""a ..-oiJird In lhK ~··r El«pt 6t ""*- ' ..... ~ .. ~. ta.ow ...,.., I ~ *"'"~~ ._ ilw Wp '* ~ . . .otte wt!"* '- ••nt 'I'I:IQPed~ldllil' lhM tpll'fbk, 11\t _ ... WM . . ~ ke- MO M - ~ ·••"""'*' • .... ,.,... .......; ... , fdl ..... 'lo'CIIIIid llfll (Jill)' " p;.r:.u ""' liP' f0116t l)ul abo wt~fllll I IICW . . . • . . . Ia • .....,...t...a. ..... .. . Sw......- ... ~ Slli&r't flnt pltdl tht)' le.m\101 -~~~~~~~ ao.t ...... dMrl ~ .,. ., .... ....,,... .. ,._, I:M•III I tt.at t~now'• ltacltr h., ,........ blk." W1lr8 ~WM - _... M .............. ... rirt..JI) 'f"'!l)'p ttflll bNtoW ~ llf .,.., ti.Oppt4 •t I lo061of n,.kt, 110 Powel . - l lifo ,._.. I kh ... ~ the pt~ ....,.lb' .,,~ tu. b~~t:lmull• liy tiW IIUI )'fll, I'JS1, IN 1~\'lt ('_. ._ .... ~ .. * - .ta... O.C ..,., ~ .__ .- ar the chrot n""" dant lht Tolftn l'111e' Ill M.-m tnt f t . - "" ..a, ..... ... lhtll ,.. ...... v..,. n. '* •• --~..,._ f • 1loh hllla ..-.hi be dr.W. tM ~.....1)' dot 11111! cwf4 be wiiWno•• -.i6 . . a..n.~- dw dtltll ~ ...,. ..... ... .......,. ooW . . . . . du'4. Httont ilfll• .." IIUIII!fbl , ..,. lllllt'tl•l !ltll «tl~ l fldbM will~ • · .....,",_of.. _ o/ti'O)nl.""" \:IM ...... ... ~.. - . . . . - to~n ~w. ltltt tht ll!.oiiJhl of <lm"* ' _. ~mit ~" llw..... th• body 1114 illdted .,..,_.._. ~w~• ......._....... ---~.,.. luJh • SptOei.Kta ptobii!IJ"tll(ll't dlf. !kllh. M4«rt.lllly-••'~· o- tpc:DQ f'll..-m l4o'-.. ... ........."___.. ... ....,. ... .__ .... pl.lll OWl tiiWn ~~ C)n tll.t tb.rtl dq thtJ' 1!1.11 dim.._ M - . . . . . kw "'-"' ""'"bohM. o. fll(! &:o11i• 4tr••n,, 1111111\4 thdt fl\fd !ina, IIW)' fUchM J ~.alb (ft( ~ 11M""· Al'lc! . . . . .....-r. ........ -' .. . . . . llld •...,.,.., ....... .. ,,, Ulf1~11pdw,-.&. tllldlml :llllfl _....,I!IMt f't~""IY•tlli""..U,tfe'MI ,.._( r__..er..,~U.-*" F~r • .-rr~...Howr Jllid(M"'I..,..., Tirlll)' ..b)' ..... 1pPftN 4 ....,. .-.. .c.- ._.......Clio f-10' 11"" .., ~-.-.teM""' d ....... alllt"f'tt~ ...... ..,...,.. hintPJII aid tc~:IIOMo led to tflot wmmlt ~~ jiiUio, ail W t.., 0!1 d1t fiMI da)' ,.CII . , . . $-.lflf4 die ..11\lkc1 lllc\ <linG ...... .. . . _ . , ... fboitlll . ......ay _..,, 11111Thtt!w. .Mby ~ ~.. ckall ..-,. __,11 M .0. ....................... ............... * ...... _ ,.llll.'f• .., .............._........ ,... ~ ..... ...!tAl..... ........ fOOIIt hklr-t' tdf, Cahfot~r i~l...... eaiM ..... ..... ... w ..... . .. tot. .... h -~··-­ nw ''~ ""'' or lhe ~tty )96(). - ~'"' K.of. .0111 JQ Dolt photos 57 �Totem Pole -­ Second Ascent MN, No. 313, p. 1, Jan. 8, 1959 Dave Rearick 58 �llml.OOUC110N - 11 Desert Rock Wuau:h Moun1a1n Club clunbtB l>tul!p S. Mu"'tr and hlf C'Omi'*'IIOflo '"Elmo." ThU iqwobabk Ia c:ht ~ II\ the world. M*ilnc 106 lrn (llm) •boft the Otvtlt Oatdm fC1ion c1 fOC.k dW: r-r\. Jnd """'"" • cliton« «''ly nine: fttc (1.1m) • • a dv ~h ~a footbalJ fwld. Fred A,Tt:lo ahn ~ d~ I«!!ttd ~ Wllh hat llllf'f lrtM lUI retb bttr, doaibcd 1ht r~;pc:!1C'nCC' ol tean01nt: -. me M~m~Nl lt.lt brin&. ...,. lhr •me of • hq •IIJlbnt tabrc <1if • • Af'f'P arck meo the: tCMtwm .a.,.·11w for mtt10n • now cbtd 10 dabmc. 19Sl- dv ~ dWod. ond ................. sa., Rod<, ........ dv liner....~. ....... Tht rode aw ~ 1nfr.c owor lhe nr.., kw yan.. tM ..t..m a..ct Prm ,..1 ~ Roper -ohc86oh.....,,.I96J ...... _....l7--ondU....,...., m....,_...J ~ br, ~ cNt IWC:t to d~ CIOIIJM'IIOn ~ ~ o( I lru Sl.p Rod< Aplob • b . roc::L Tlw f1nc ~ ..,. en 19t9 bJ Hab Conn. ft.,. C.na. and 1UC'P t.. r...lnd, ...... ,..... bJoft Sl>irp Ito<~-,. b< ..,.....1. Wdh ohc""""' o( Aphb. ch< IWO -tor YObnic ~Oft. dw clatf1 had bed cLI!Ihd. They " - f t - " " t ~and not • .u .mw.. nw ~:no-n ~ IOW'm up ., chit tllllat w lft.n CCJnNd,m,d ! , wet, "*' Eric Bjørnstad a-.. 16- WTROOUCTION ..a•••cwty DESERT CLIMBING HISTORY Tht inc~pcion fi rnooncau~wrc '" chle tOUth•-at desttt •"» OCK wuil the: m.id-1930s. •-hm North American dlmblnc ..... ><ul '" us mhn<y. Althouch noal>k .....,. had ....., mad< throucf'.out d~ cotm~.c. thq- •-ctt ~~Sohtd bfl'tly without t«hnic:al know-how. lc was a dtnc when ak rope ~nc. piton ptOC«tion, and multiple: day as«nts O\'Cf c«hnictl rcnatn Wfft far bchuld tht evoluuon of thtar Europnn coumcrp.uu. 8v the ftm (ev.. cJeadeJ ol the twtnt1cth untury only a cbut Or so mounrainccrs m Amtnc:a wert: concerned with tec.hnicaJ tdvancemcnlf.. T'hc pte"vailing C()lnKiou$nes.s ci d~ <-limbi.ng fr.uernity was 1till the Smytlw phi.loeol)hy of puncy; clJmbmg wholly without the ckcadmcc of ft'ICXIun techno~ Then. as now, rcputat~ -~re often the fulcrum &om which the evolution ol t-Hmhina cithtr a«tlerar«i or Magnated. For the avant~gardc, lnaccosibl~ summits, the ..unc:limb:lblt.s.• were the (romtcrs from whkh reput:Jdons gttmlNt«f. In the mid tO late 301. Color.ldo climbe-r Robert Orm6 and comrades we~ r~at~ly rurrd lhtonol.-.., •"'> - • ... ..-.~-·-· bock bv oh< "uncllmbabte• boo>lt rib hlsh on Ship Reck. Thb volcanic plug, located ..., the point where the four desert $-lites t han: a common boondary, "'as ~~ first auempt to make a ttc:hokal nlO\Intollleerlns ascent ol a ckM:rl monolith. The Co&orado dimbtrS' effOrtS and a dramatic fall taken by Or1ntts w~rc surrunarl:ed ln an artkk... A.. Piec~ of Bent Lron,"' which appearuJ in rht 1939 Sourrda) E\!Crlil\f Pent. In 1939, Ship Rock. ritlna 1.800 feet (549m) abo>·< • flat"'" of d.,.<t, had amu<d an e$dmated twelve (JJII~ru and w:.s wtll est3bll.shed as '"Americ;~ 's toughe$t climbing problem." lured by this impoilng rtput~adon, Cali(orni" Sterr~ Club climbtrs Raffi Btdayn, David Brower, John Dye<, and llHoor Robin""' jouo""yed 1,200 n>ll., Ovt< mush roads into the •nknown o( the 50Uthwat .ck:$eu. They were among the (orerunne-rs tn rope management and aid climbing on che glaclcr.-chitcled waiiJ o( YOkmltc. To the c~Htrt, and to North American climbing, they ~ht the innovation ol tht txpansion bolt. Four d~~·s, (our bolts, and a 1assotd horn of rock brou&ht the ream ro d~ eludvc 1urnmit o( Shtp Rock, and the threshold c( ~n moumainecnng. Robiruon spoke &n dd'c:rue o( thtir modttn techno~· (t~ bolr), •'tiring: "'We agreed wirh mouncain«:rinc moratim lhat dimbina by dlt': UK ol apans:jon bolts "-as taboo. We did bdirve, ho-'t'\'tf, thJt ~a,(ery knew no «".Knc:tlvt rules." It tS olmt«tte t0 note rMt at the <bwn of American dcst'n climbing, tht- autumn ol 1939 r.nally t«ottd by the s,..,. twn, anotheT -!foam ascent was MOde. Ahhouch mv~:al by companton, one month to tht <by prior ro thf: ascent of Ship Rock, thf: first ...,..,, o( Undtcopo Arch, '" .,_., cloy A<cha N•tional M. "" mad< by Salo Lake wt..n Ship Reck - a.., In 19SS. So...d~~rrn Cah/ori\Y t.hmbrn. Don W•hon •ncl Jerry Oallwu made a rte:OnNi-.nce of Spi&r Rode In C•nyon de ~lly, In the nonht:10l eot1'1C'r of AnJOna. 'The (ol&o-,•inc year dlcy teturi'IC!d with Mil\ 1\)wtll and b«MM tht Om tO dlmb t major sand.Jlone rowet in the deM-It.. St*t Rock, rbinc 800 fftt (l~m) fiotn iu canyon b.. ilfMC'Illf llttq)ttd as the hlihett fr~ j(lnd1"* pinnxlc- on dw North Amette.n tont1nent. TIM: flllt NOtm involv«t fi"Yt dtrt ol c.hmblna _.,,.. • mlnlfMim t:l both bc+•l'll pbcN. The f*l'l' ~mud the tenor cl ph.onl that «M.~Id l"e rtrnowd hom llwt .c:l'l fOd: wllh chr finJUS and bolt hokt m.t coold bt dnlled in halt dte 11me thqo toolc tO drill on dw11 bomt Wlllt <:J Yosemitt. Thb wu a pim b-rbodlftJ ol dw drarl\lf tNt wm 10 bt ~ on nearly CYt'fT AndMone wcmr: ift tbr r..... The .arne lUI Spider R.odc Wll ell~. thr Cald'ornu ctam tt~I"Chcd OUl ~ rhln.. 2i5-«:.ot C84ca) c:::~tq.tn·, NC"td.k, ...tuch by .Mt OW1 tht Nt'W Mftxo bordtt. It ha.i iniriaUy bttn 59 �18 - lNTROOucnoN INTRODUCTION - 19 ""''h Spidn RDc.k, 1n ll ma~ne pho•o. On the liKCnt nf Oro tht- rarer pbctd a loddn o( aid pitons to 'lr.'tthm 40 f«t (Jlm) clthe to~. As thty hGCltd tkw-'1'1 b the C\'tn!OJ!'S bi''O!Dt k'\'Cfll of dlr ~nchort &hrft<'d undtt d~u "'~h(. The foUowinl! motn.tl\# l'ldtly all ol tht' pn<IM r~uittd rtdtu··~ 1MO the fClt ~f'ldstone, .md on the final detcent m:.\ny of t~ pttON 'll.'tt\" t~·N Wlthoot: tht Sid of\\ ~mmtr. d~<UC!d, ~htr }ary Goltu.,, Don was..., <mil I ""'during U.. <wly 1950. oncf. "'g>"anir<-coodiriontd CaJifomia rock clfu>b.,, U.. F.., Comm Rq;on ""' no<only mno« b.c <he so(< "d """"""" apf>tm't<l , _ i".mdi>k. H"""""' }my .,_, lv>d iru,.....,.,, Don was «<mal/y ron.Oncing. <mil l ~ dtrtT'Jllinarion. Th~. in &au Mateh 1956, they led me at dusk too Can:JQn &Chelb ~ ~~ W. """""""'""" momm<arily ..,.....,r as Sp;da Rode. rising nearly 900 f«• loom<d f~ ou< <>f U.. ,.,..;..~ar~c..., below I< uw w <Me u• """'-" ovr fin• kuoru: brolking hmwJ ond foo< hold., i>uimi<lating nd#l swrfa=, l·J" ..,;J, ....lied aa00. jlaring CMmley$, ond rock $0 SO/<oM<, me<rWn ""'"""· boll lool<s for ¥• b) l" noil·tyj>e Srar Oriw·IM could be driiW in ""'minutt, U.. boll ..W. foarc<r .m..... <mil ...... ,.....,...,r ..w. ....,., fingers. In Seprembtr of 19.56 ovr energie.t were~ tO Ckcpurra's NecJk. We u~ initiGUy arrrc.ued to d\Js ~ hlad.Ai!« spi<e lry a pi<.<Orial od...,dsem<>o, of a <fte,~ INJ "' its bose. The n<Mlt ~ a n>4jo. chollao:< h«<ms< <>I"" """'""' /<Mac. Thc<r U, <he only fwfik """"' in U.. fiMJ 100 /«< ""'a ""lied 1<> ~ f<'« splil b) o ,;ngk """"- M.,...... ohe crock appcmcd ro exw-.d entirely ~ Ute $pirt, ~ dlsconct of probcbly no grt'<Un than r.rn fuL With tach h.l.tlter pitOn plooof. ... """"'..,., -Jd loosm. sNf<, .,.j...., faJI ... - '""'"" •• '"IX"' ... fiWu<ning i'O'lib<li<y W. lA< *'<· """ &.;ding i" half. I< uw .,.,, U.. p/«ccmen< <>fa <=ial ond ""'nrl -"""' boll ro avoid a small upanding fiok near Ute swmmit rktt. ai'I.N.taW h dan:tr and auured tAe a$«JJL J stiD .o.tdly '""""""' Jary rajlfl<Ul"C 1<> U.. C"""nrl. racing in<o <he open, .,..j l4i<ing o ~ of Don and me de~!) .scandmgon the rwo-{()0( wkf.e summit. in a IOMrH gusry hr«te, """arms owucrer.c.Mf 10maint'dirt~. Tht spocr.ooaa, 10tem Ptk wa:s, OJ ~. tht tulmination of OUT &ewe ach.'t'7ltwres. Swccw on Tht summic of cht T01nn Pole. 1951 In 19S7, Don \VJlson. ]tttr G;~IIW\11$. -.nd M:ul Pu""dl n:tur~ with 8111 "D:lh" mfkr to lllt(ml"f the most 11we irupmng cower on ~he ddert, the 4\."o.fnot (1 Zlm) Tot~ fulc, m ~4onumnu ~lk,.:. ~· thu tlmt. ft lud aln:arJy turMJ bxl t1•1o ll1trmru.. The CulilornuM ~~ lour dly.s fuul'lg ropd up d\t' soft ;~id end:,., not;f:OtUn~ tht final lead ''I.J i boh !adder. On thdr ~nt, h15:h wtnds bliii!W ttw ehm.bns h:aliwnr J.rc>.•nJ d1~ 2S-&,oc dud: tQW'C'f, currun11: d~ tummat 0\·cfhanc"'C nrpe.l into a n~. l'hdc' eatly pU'If'\«rs ftlt Wt o( tht-n ~~X~nts. $p1d« Rock had b«n the ~t f'OUIC, C~tn's :-\wJle haJ been the most ~t'OI.d. and the: Tocnn 1\,le the mcm dlft'ttu.h. Sj>idn a»d Cleo l..l not only p..n "' c.q>eriena bu< Olso oprimism ond U.. r>«<ssity <>f beinc prtpaT<d. }<TrJ. ""' of U.. early ;• ..,...., irt piton """"'f-.ing. W -..rn.c<cd w><k J!<u-bock ant.!< "'"""· The fW hock oooJd be M <<" fluV. 1<> - side of U.. crock. whJk <he <wo <J,u c'" ll'W"" inro U.. opj)O$i"\g •Ide. <hereby rcduc;ng U.. likdihoocd <>f diru< doom""'" sNf• ond IGurol IOTqWng. We - • joind lry Jj;!l "Dolr" """'" ond reaclrtd U.. summi< of«r 19 harm of c~mbing in '""'· l 9S7. M....,;e, come jloorling hock - U.. ~ /cod "/> U.. fmol croci<. of bl.ddcr probloru on U.. s......Ur u.trh oiQ <m U.. ..,.j ""'""' ond being hlow.. lv>lf woy .,.,.,.j U.. *'< u~ik lanqwi.s"""' rappell'ing mo high wind. climbs"""'""""""'"' '" rtrrooj)<tr, sequ<r<tiol scl«dor. of if U.. Toum Pole W h«o ftnr chosen u.e ~~ u~U how bttn turned GWa}. and 1Mot no doubl co tlu's w:ry &a, r.Mt owr ~onu am he amihv«d ro U.. ..,;q.. "'"""""lion of j><n<JMll...,, acocwlu, <mil abi~ri" <>f )my. Ooro. U.. "Doll. •• and nw'. By tbt" c:nd ci the- d«a.:k the K<ond lbC'tl\t of tht P->k W<JIS made by Oa""t' Reoa.n<k, TM llctbnt. a,nd Tom Condon. and :\pthb had ~n dunl-cJ lilt tlmt'S, ..,th a kCOnd rout~ NN~n,~J bern n.tobluhtd br 1'(1"'~11 and Fn.«er. IA!nnJ the .Jith lb(:tnt C)(Shlf' Rock m Mll)', 1959, Pete: Rot;owd.t <lind Tom. McCalla madt dw f'~Nt Ute tiCeftt t.J tht monobth. but t.~httt tn the dtstn dwrr "''<JI;S lmk hu«e\t 1n t~non. ThlJ clu;nl(td wh<-n H.JnT)' T. Carter 1ntm.luc<d L..rron Kar 10 desnt d!ml:Cnc m rh.e srnna c/1960. In a hlit.:k~ ¢1 enthw~m. Outct, Kor, 2nd JMn Auld (ust \ls.tt«< Color3d..l Na!lon31 MOMtt!'IC'Mt and on COOk'Cuti\'C: daVJ m.a.k W h"' ascc::n" of Rtmn;~.n" TQOAI;'t, Sentmd $pl.~. Sell lOwer, {\nd Pharooh A:Mnt. The team then travelled to Monument Valley and pioncc:tcd 3 route up Sh:.tngri· l~ before making t~ ~d 3$Cent o ( the East Oykco: on Agathb. The $:.11'0e v~ John. Allki returned to Colorado National Monwn«~t with Gary Ziegkr, ~ry Bout htr, and Bob DooM tO cli.mb Egypt Rotk, and Kor rerumed to Monumtnt \'.!Ucy with Steve Komilo and d imbed the: Thwnb o( the lt(t Mitt~n and Thumb Butt~. Shortly aft~r. the seeoctd ~t <I Spider Rock was mad.: by Chuck Pmtt ond Bob Kam,.. 60 �372-NAVAJ~ NAVAJOLANDS I, 1«11 man. ~ fo< imiNdiioey of "'""'" 10 l>riclucn m1 ......, 4l(llin. 10 ~ me ntam r!tt .....Ill - . - .; in m, J«<ttir1l 1m< /oqoc~<n llow 10 donc<. y..., O.O..inanl ~'" .,... Tit< ....I ...,... of dUe....., "'"""' ""' in J«kint ...., lon<b. bwr in ....., wirlo Marcel Proust INTRODucnON The vas<neN, tht alienus, and Incredible starit boauty o( MOIII!ment \Ioiiey and the Navajolands ptrhapo hold tht ar..ttlt myltique of anywhere in tbt Golorodo Plateau. Its pinnacles. labyrinthlne canyons, russ.et c.Llfft, and barren flatlands are a blending of oonn·es(: the larat •nd small, ftr and near. lbere ban overwhelming feeling of quie-t and peacefulness and intimacy as the timtleu land changes moods with the interplay of light and ohadow. Thundtutorm.s brlna a new beaury o( oolor 10 rhe red rook •nd smell of the damp sand. ~lr violence can be extremely lntlm1datina. The be" way to get to know lht: land i.s to visit It and reaHy fttl it, In meny seUON. Learn • little about iU geoiQIY, its people, and prehistOry to more fully experience the uniquely beautiful land o( the Navajos. The western 'a'l'ittr Zane Orty refen to Monument Valley as, ~a )·tllow and purple oonopted world o( dlsrance." In Tit< R<llnhow Trdl1. Grey further lptab of rhe area, • ••• Wre was no scene in all the worLd to equal chat. The [fa.nquillcy of le:Mtr spaces wu not hert: manlfest~ sound. movement, life, a«med to have no fttnes.s here. Ruin was there and deaolation and detay. The meanlna of !he.,., wao Ouna ot him, and a man betame nothing. • l.ocared In the four cornell reaJon of Arioona, New Mexioo, and UtJOh, !he Navajo Indian 1\aervadon spw an area of .-r ZS,OOO oquar<: miles (16 milliOn ocn:s), a chunk of the 61 �374 - NAVAJOI.ANDS NAVAJOLANDS - 315 southwest larger than the state of West Virginia or the combined areas of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Massachuesetts. The Navajo, or Dineh - "The People," as they call themselves, number better than 160,000, with about half being under 18 years old. They are an Athabascan· speaking people who began migrating into the southwest in the 1500s. Today more than 90% still speak their native tongue. Prior to their coming to the southwest the area was inhabited by the Anasazi (Navajo for Ancient Ones), who lived in the region about 1,000 years. The Navajo learned agriculture from the Pueblos and acquired livestock (horses, sheep, and carrie) from the Spaniards, who visited the area in the 1500s. John Young, in a New York Times article, tells of a story of a midwester'n couple whose car was stranded in the sand far back in the valley. "The husband wanted to walk out but the wife, who had read many western stories, prevailed. She built a small fire of sagebrush beside the road, added a bit of green brush for smoke and then waited. Within minutes six Navajos on horseback appeared, and, without saying a word, roped the car and towed it to safety. Had the couple known the Navajos spoke English and had asked them where they came from, they would have learned that a sheep roundup was going on just over the next hill. But they d id not ask and went back home convinced of the speed and efficiency of smoke signal communication and of the magic of Monument Valley." The Navajo Indian Reservation is land held by the U.S. Government in trust for the benefit of the Navajo Nation. The Bureau of Indian Affairs, an agency within the Department of the Interior, is responsible for the administration of the land. The reservation is not subject to state laws but has its own laws drawn up by the Navajo Tribal Council and administered by agencies o(the Navajo Tribe. Several rules unique to the reservation impact the visitor. Photography on the reservation is allowed for personal use, but permission is required to photograph the Navajo people and their property, and a gratuity is expected. Commercial photography requires a permit, available from the Department of Broadcast Services, P.O. Box 308, Window Rock, AZ 86515; telephone: (60Z) 871-6656 or 6655. Alcoholic beverages are prohibited on all tribal lands. Camping is permitted only in designated areas of the reservation, such as the campground at Monument Valley Tribal Park, Canyon de Chelly, and several non-commercial campgrounds such as Coal Mine Canyon Overlook and Ship Rock. One must inquire locally as the camping situation changes. All backcountry travel requires a permit (available from the Navajo Tribal Council headquarters, located in Window Rock, Arizona) , and fishing and hunting by outsiders must be accompanied by a permit, obtained through the Fish and Game Department, P.O. Box 308, Window Rock, AZ 86515. Certainly the best road map to the Indian lands of the American southwest is published by the Automobile Club of Southern California. Most of the minor roads are listed, and the mileages given are quite accurate. Unfortunately, this excellent map is not widely available, being reserved for the exclusive use of members of that club. CLIMBING IN NAVAJOLANDS For nearly 30 years, the Tribal Council has discouraged climbing on reservation lands. While officially only rwo towers are considered sacred to the Navajo , Spider Rock and Shiprock, many of the other rock formations have seen conflict between climbers and the Indians. Reservation Navajos share ownership of the lands but mainrain land use righ ts to separate plots. T he Navajos are a private people who do not seek to be intruded upon .by rock climbers. Since it is their prerogative to ban climbing on the reservation as they choose, it is the fervent hope of this author that climbers respect those wishes. The Indians have on many occasions harassed climbers, often under the pretense of a lad: of backcountry permit. By simply applying for a backcountry permit for specific goals, climbers may risk that they be turned down, or they may, in fact, be allowed to climb without fear oi pcn;I'W(ion. The:- Nuvajo !kllUdvcs have os l'el 001 foonmlatt:<lu cbr pOiocy un the dimhit'lji question. At this point, huwt-vrr, br fi;m:wnrned, drni.o:n ""' al rid. of hlor.oos&nM:nl should lho:v ck<:ick tQ dimb oo N~M~jo lands. Rumen of cht cllmblnc ban fUR ll'icklcd in du.ring the miy 19605, bu.t mM dlmben became aY<m ol a ban (oJiowlnc an ucent of of Middle: Smcr, 1 dim.b that bc:pn, ~Y eJ»Ueh. In Zion Nat~l Part. In March of 1967, afrer ~«mlngJy rod.leR cormpond~n« ~ pclt()m] appcutncca befOf'c the Jupoetint~ndet'l• ~~ Zlon Natlond ~rl.. Fred IX<ke, pin~ the fruition c;l m;any month's dwnu whm t... was gnmted pertnl.oilan to c.limb th., &ont:iol fa« o( th~ O....t White llorunc. Pnur Ju tlou. ;){od)OJrizo.<ttc.-i d.t!re 6d born • bl;on\.c t ban on ell rock ~limbin,g with on Z.On. The: ll'<C('I'Il r.n<Jn mcmbel'$ ~ list~. inclool.rli d~ikd dimbing qU~~Ii.f'JCatloru, in, B krt~r to .m- a~pcrintenr.lcnu w~rrrn J. Hmlm~e, Oelm ~u. Elk 8jf"J~. and Fft'<1 il«kt"Y• ~ 5UJ'PQ"I t~m m=ben who ~ to be on ~II ~IC lM Iletbcrt, .Dou,l:~~~ Tompkit1*, Steve !~.<>per. Olen Denny. AI McDonald, and Charln rr.m, with cbe ~attle Moontain Rtstwuc Counc:IJ being cited u on •tandb~t In addition to several cb'f' of food and wat.,r the d imbinl partf was r~uircd to have at lt-~t one Juppon mcmbu Oft d.e ground and on contact br w..lloe•tallJt. At rlw. laosr minure H.anLng had ro r~md from r}.., rt:am and wat. r~l:.:ed by Pnr Collis. 'The rc~!Rd lrQUP anlvtd on Klo.edo.JJ., 1;u the Or"r \'tlhlTc Thi\XIC had been ptiJqted ~ a week of ~ IN)IUOOO, Ulcc 1'9.ins Afra orw pirc-h ol dlmblr\i B«key referred tO the potOILl NavaJo SandKofle aJ Mvlroa ll«ome ·ct~e eeMR¢11(l ol wet brown S\IPf. • The cum plonee~ a 10111c vp the tolltuY Pulpit at me ~nd of die park road bef'Of'c qrecine that the Thl"lln" - · J:<Hna «< 161'10~ a e.ctoplo ol wttb drylnc rirM. Att:I~JI'I<Jits \\'e~ mw to -er m a larer cbre tot rlu, domb, then Rtw,..,ll r.,ruH'Ied to hit; :l.tlro rql'lot bus.m es 1n tlv San Fnonti$co &r A""' ,...J Bec~er. llJ1l~nY:ad, and C'..:oll i$ rramecl up woth E-i3rvey T CArter and joorncvcd tt• Moooment V.llt"Y. the land of httl• ,.;... iln~ cold "'indy deY$ lvtcr tiK AJmmlt of Micldk SiKcr "''' gained. N tM tewm returned to thrir car ther were I!I«tl:d br the 1!i'bal l'atk poll". A Navajo office: lnnOIII'Iccd !hat me "na~·~• were tt~tlw. •· Anxiow momenu pal6lld btCort tht c.Umbc11 wtte rcle»cd and cfireetcd to inform the climbina WO(Icl that future vlolatiOI'JI ci the 'Limbi.na ban on elK restmdon would wtomatically mult in ,. rtnt ancllor j;all Hnttnet. Nt>td~ to Ul(. aftet the uc;cnt ci Middle S~crchc ban ~Jntd a dimeNion of rt!llllty ,,,t.,lout.lr root r~. Fmi 8cchy wnxc of the cxprrimcc ln • Sommti1 M~ m ic:k utled '"The Na.tlva are Oc:wnc Radcss. • !n cbr may ht ..U of tilt beauty and lure of dnctt towm. "Next IQ the C.bulous Torem Pok. the Middle Sister is the lhlnnm of tM vea.t roek fofmatlons in the \ltllcy. IW~I d~>~»e the Middle Si:scn few our dlmb, not Olllf b«1.use It nlll ul'ltOUclled, Lut to..c.ause d Itt. lllylu.b grace. Ju arrildc dlt gi¥CI the crnt rowtf a Ctitaio tlepnce. ">u Ourol""" ..,.,k d;t£t ckr,;,, r tuwte• a& viu.oriu not: 11.1At because they m3')1 bt d.lffit:ult, hut btc.w.e tlocy Are oebs.u::·&oolofl£. Ln fact. tit&£ rnw.t bt the (.()mpt.llonQ or:asou , tOr the gno;o.t buttes in the u~ lnovo: br~ly '"" l'et bt.!io o~Calal, ..fnli! tloe muce a.Jhetic ftwnmAiOn.• ure 5iowly being d..,llrnf{ed. Thu ~ nnothu ;uxumenl, l ht)s~e, IIIW1tTd the P'CJil(ll5ition th~J;t tht rode climbet li not a m~ llftlrwt, a.nd b uuly affected by the btal1t)' of the JUt!Oiindl~. " Climben ha~ cllinbcd on the rctef~tiOn <lurina th.e full coca.e of the Wn, hov.·cvo:r, eithH throo.tgh iplor.mcc, d~r. or pcrnap6, IOI'I'te t<tticna.li:ation tlu.t allowed tbnn to &0 apirat tM wishoel of the tribe. True, I!WlY lndiviclual lnd~t1* could not: QIC leu wnethtr or not dimlwu$ dimb th..ir •rirn; in fxt, loal Na,.Ajo$ h..ve on ncc:L$Ion $1'1'w.d • "00iflfi()O ~Dd hei"Y""· Not in any ..,.y to KI'Ye liS c:r.,.,urogem¢rll to vmton., the W'<~vrajobnd rooteS in this book aft' ckscoribed only for th~ aokl: o( thr hi$11Jri.c::<l1 reconl ~hop in rfm~ the is;sur oi dimblflll on the ft"K'rvarlo~ wl11 bt- cborill.rd by the Tril.l Cou~il. M11.ybt- IOm.t ~rm of dimblna fl<'l'llllt ~em "''Uid allow dlmbtrs lqilirute ll«lM$ to~'""~ lofmatloru. 62 �NAVI\)<li.ANilS 376- NAVNOLANDS Nru.ell~ lnt~ to~ lanc¥oriN that Nve no ccmAKr with kleal lndlan. lnttrtS.ts. At the woe ri:mt, AJCh clatif'W:d climbini policy would atahliMla~Ut whtft" vbitarion i.J c.ltarly ocx m che best interests ol tht local population. CtrtaJnly. the rtaefv.\tion COI.IId do wid!. the mcn:ased rourbt rew:nut that kgldm.l:o:l d imbina WOI.IJd prodl«, throu&h the sale of both diMhlr\c pamla. <:JOruUmables, and Indian W9.fU. CtlMil OF THE 'I'Q'mM POLE RICKHOR.N Wcan:~cndsei'OC'k~ Th< ,.,., " """"""· fiiiW"l· Coom>t<""""'""~ Tht-ualf sll:zM OMt ~ (IUf ~. &>d>ofMSm"""""'~ Abow <ku>-r fix>< w ,.. ,.,., ,_. • pOoo """"' Tlwn ~in slings aM fOjlt ~ it fn w I'W'I"'W rnac:l¢ p.aq hi$ wtieftt on It, wu h mu~: it. Anod>c> ""'> iloif""' J>0oo p..,.., •. $omdimdfolli"'OWI j ....... H~ lt.SU it, Climb on. ]...,_....d . - . 177 TM ' wmmn ht,,.k ~~ ,•~t~i'ki..' Man) ho&cr,\ J~t.l. 'l'tte sw" is "1."'1 Jow And ;u "'Y' lie r.o.;_..r """" w ...rJey f>mal'ld ro W w:u ddttt /lot;n' p~., cht ,a,ru ..U. """l>o.rra. All U ~and qwitt AJf of r!Qtltrc ~lCJcclling As a dimbtr Aald.s himsdf onco W swmmiL Th< ro,.. ........ In cht""' c( U.... ..loo follow ,;,n..r.-- R"'"'c """""' wdro1gk nilfu. periloosJ) Those ... follow On ..,., """' of rope H....r..ds c( /«tobout deo<r< Finally rk rt.e. c("' Jl"<l <odo otfo<, w Wi<A ~ """''c( des<.nL lnhibiud by rilooglus ~ u srrNon on cht Jummir uu w afl<m>6!h of • """ louie. First man dutencfs &ac.h mr~m~ gon dol.vn rht rope. WNk Wt man ~rs Only ... rope ' "'"'"" lUm .. cr.. •..u. &rA - down. cr.. '""' "p.llcd. M9!< nwcll. <O<il !<'I'< rrlri<ml. ,,...,. ........... 1""11< of~ """• The U.tt c( w "" bo<l< on I hem w nu.trn. 'Bcdics """""""m<n 4tld minds tmaws.rai. ~'"""'""'· n.t fttdr1 is *""· r\011 He is liP 47'14 fius 1/tt ropes. Upwt('C)f'llt~(d w de"" P- Cold black •iifw "'C"lfs "' SIDJ"S in dat wrtl~ ~ ws. Ume pitOn$ rnnotU No<-~..,.. CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE - VENUS NEEDLE- NAVAJO NEEDLE ~o>il<d.~ 8~-~~ ...... ,.. ............ _ Ptuwu rntUtd co t1.e !imir in XJ{t S4ndsoont. We ftd rope$ Qnd ~ oa Wo 016 boctics. We fod IN ,_, ....,. of w ,_., Podo. ~ pladns. food. ....-,, "'""""· w ,_;. blod< " w lrutl'rd\. 0... """ ..,.,. of rope .. w ""' pir>« And no lftOff cmci. &ru m.mu..r """' "" mp~r>«. boll .. bolt Slooi;J ~ ,A;IIfull> Flnrolly ,.. ,.,., ""' wp,... (Point<d Rock - Z,.. Da l<ah) -ANGEL WING: HBtGHTSCkopatn'• N«dl~. 27S feet (84m): V~nus Needlt , 275 (tet (84m); N~vajoNet(Ut, 300 fm. (91m): Angd Wing, 180 f~t (55m). It Is I:IOlc•oorthy th"'t one SO--foot $«don of Cloeopatnll's Needle il only six to ten feet wide. LOCATION ANI) ACCESS Cleop;o""'' N«<<le, N«<<k, 3M Navajo Needle a" located barely in New Mexiw on the Navajo Indian Re-M.rvadon, 17 miles (27.'fkm) north of Foct Dcflanct, Arltona. An,tl Wing bIn the tarM arta an:J it loc::ated alons Navajo Route 12 about 6 mU" (9. 7km) north of W!ndow Rock, Ari:ol"t.J. '0\( nearnt (:irr co the towns 1~ OaUup-, Ntw Mt-xlc:o. t~>Utt\ta:n of the landf<>rnu. To rt:\Ch Cko, Venw, •nd Nava;o Needle t'rom Fon Ddlancc, driw 17 milts (27.4k-m) nOrth on lnd:ian Route: 12 and rurn ta$t on a din ro.'ld (nut tO a ~till ) with figns ro Camp Aauyi and Bowl Canron R«.rtatlonal Atta. AnotJ\cr si~ at the tum reads Mt'xkan Sprinp. lf approaching from the north a $i~ will read Fon D:flanc;.c. 17 miles. A few milu do-.'0 W dltt MOO '-''ill produ,ec: a view ¢1 the towcn co the. ldt. v..,.,. 63 �378 NAVAJOLANDS -379 NAVAJOIANDS r----......J1 nESA Cl~tra'• Needle it about a mik (1 .6km) to the left of the dirt I'OIIId, across Todilto WW. Gnd btyoncla ranch ~. A priV'.lft ro:.d tO tht ranch howe (not to be OOm) is nufl:ed by a rode painted with lhe numbm 829. Ahod and co the ltft cl the "829" road. N~wjo Needle appoears as a $pitt' j('ltli·attac.hcd tO:. mesa. Just right of it if Vcrws Nc:e:lle, a Aut«< (ttt"$tanding toWtt with thue $Un1mia. t~nd :t laxge dihedral on its wt$t face. The best 8PI-'CO'Kh ( I) C leQp.un'S N«<lle- b to hll;e croM ~ntty pat.t Vcnl!S m NIIV);j() N«:dlC$ ;alone the ll06t of the meA and th<tn mw:m acrosr. the opr:n ground to tht towu. HISTORY Frank M<~~Prv writo ol 0t0plltta'$ Needle In !Alyton Koc's book Beyond dtt Vntbal. It was a "'Sisypha'ln snuggk with the rock .•• C leo's f()5le dun ftom. the-~ u tbc:K.¢h it h3d 11f0Wft tilt«, no talus. no pcdcst:ll, onty ont ftl.nt cn.ck $)'Sttm: the pcr(CQ tecMical rock problem $tripped of l\11 other toN.ldemiON . •• I r«chW a short honUty on ~ need for l.'O¢d rQPC ,.>(d •• • we (ace the whok j»noply ol Mcrors.• In the e:tdy 1960s: TM Herbert. <Auck Pnu. and a. dimbtr thty simply Clllltd the Enclishman di.mlxd one •nd a half piteht'S on Ckopaua'& Needk. The foUO\\ina day they murn«< «t dltir fixed ~ to find that all the pitON and c:ambinm pbt:td be~ bad c~ out ol the fOCk lind wtre da"ilifli at the bottOm of Wit ropes. ln 1961 Bill Forrut llttempud rhc. ~ asttnt of Vtc\U$ Needle but w:u ~nested by the Navajo Tribt.al 'Alike. He was u.lc.~n Into Window Rock 'and held $C"\'tr31 hours I.W\t£1 tM Ttlbel Disrricc Anou,e·r urh~ and rcl~ him. scarina dut the:.,. could noC: hold him any lonaer bca:U~tc: the:- rock wu nO( IXJ'ted, but should ~ ~'l't"r dtmb t~ api.n he would be fined and put in P,i.l. Ten yean b ta he: mwzMXI•nd climbed ~nus with KrU Wall:er. Whl.lt on rappd hom d~ t.'UI'bll'llt they oherV\06 111 pick--up ttuek o( ltldb.ns arriving M. the lx.c o( the spire. Sure: <:J me: comcq.x:nQeJ. rh~y con tln.u«i their <bocm, bln when ForreH ~htd the gMU1ICI the l ndi<~N mzp«:d into loud hand clapping and cheeri-nj.. Nati~ AMH1ean ltg.end claiiN that the: j ummit of \~us Needle waa. wed to 1C$t the ~r~lp of anc:imt wurion and b (c:scooned with their ~TfO'IIt1'· 1bc f'irst ILtcent ¢1 Na\-ajo N«dlc: W8.1 mack br lWO parties climbing .slt!luhaneoosly on the West Fxe and r.he South &nOU$. lndl~ ~tin& d~m at the l.t asked for ~h tO pay for the privUtgt. Wtkily for the six dimbel'$, a Tribe] ~~~ shtwmJ up and was mort CUopcum's Nudk Layton t::or 64 �380- NAVAJOI.ANDS interested in the mechanics of c.limbing th~;m he was with rhe- pay-for-climbing di$pUte. The l.lpprehensive six ~ 11.ble 10 le:a~ with no hard feelings and Mth what little cash they had still in their pock&. 1\11g.I Wing wos attempted in 1984 by Todd Gonion, who was h<larcd by an 1ndmn, but the summit \118:1 OC)( reached. NOTE Climbing th£$t rowers could result in a line and jail time:. 0 CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE - &ur Face Ill 5.9 A3 Three pitches. The 6nt .....,, wos made September 4·5, 195:6, by Marl< Powell. Jerry Oallwa$, and Don Wibon as a 5.5 A4 route. l'he secood »cent was made by Sttve Roper and Sharon LindtT, OcrobtT, 1962. The lhird _,-.t, in November of 1962, was accomplished by l.or<on Kor and Frank Magary. The $J>ire had been attempted in 1960 by Kor, Hazvq T. Caster, ~d John Auld. The fourth asce:nt was made in October oll963 by Chuck Pnm and Ste~ Roper. East Pace Variation tn 1959 Harvey T. ~rter and Clifford W. Smith established a direct start variation tO the Powell~ Gallwas and Wi.bon a.stem rouce, climbing a crack System nm. just right<>( the bloek on the fim h<lay ledge. The "'mmit W3S not reached. Soudlwt Variation On April 22, 1969, Don Doucette and Mike Dudley made tM first ascmt of this variation that starts just right of the end of che formation <lnd climbs a small roo( 2S feet (7.5m) above the ground. The routt: turns the roof on the left befOfe joinina the "'3UIM rouu at a l•rge ledge 120 feet (37m) <tbove the ground. CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE- West Face IL5.9A3 Two pitches. The first ascent of this route was made by Bill Forrest and Kris Walk«, April, 1971. h Meends cracks on the west Jide of the: spire via aid and free dimhlng. 65 �.184- NAVNOI{!I':'DS NAVNOI#!I)S -:Ill Fcdtra1 rqula uon• m.clly ,ow:rn all visitor ua~l ""'thin Canyon de Oitlly Na.tlonal Monumnn, prot«t.in, chc piVICy c:J me Navajo ~ who film, ,.t.t thcrp, and make chtit hom~ in the 'an)'ON. Vh;lcon muse. be accom(IMi:cd br a pill\ ~· or an authorlltd Navajo guide. (Rmt~t~l hona trt tOO avaUabk.) The 011lv uc:cptkm tot~ tnl\'t-1 ttstrictioos il th< White Houl< T,.il, whi<:h 11 oxlf•J~tidint mtil ••ith a ll>'(iolllltldcbook obttlnabl< at the viskor c.entc:t. 1M cnll tqi.N ac. che White liouK ~riook, S mlkt (8km) from the md o( the llQYc:d eo.d. Tht frlllil '- one mik ( 1.6tm) Iori,.. 1\ndWd Moo " loat.d dim:dy ..,_ , _ Sp;lo.. Rock. roRW<.TlON 0. O..lly Sont~ocoow. HISTORY N•..,. q,d ..,. that a Sp;clto ~... .., m. top vi Sp;lo.. 11ocL lloor vi dw N...;o dUidt.n . . """""" WNoo<rino Rock -1>r .t..,.u _, ., Sp;lo.. Rock ond Sp;clto -.do ' - hn iii<, couha d.. """""' clu...,. ood cwrio m.. bod< tO .... tt>pol th< >Odt ....................... Th< '""'"'" "'Sp;clto Rock .......... ~ b, ~mnm;. ~vt.nt tM ata white, racmbhnc the bone~ d cht Nllollhcv childrm Sp;dct IXI>mon hM eaten. Spider 'Woman inte:ruet«< rhe Nava;o women how ~ weave on • loom which Spidc:t Man told chem how to mde. 11\t crot~ipoln "''Cit 11\i!de o( • ., 11nd ellrth cord,, d'llt: wtrp ftida ol M\ I'Jl'$. the heddles of f'Otk «'!"fl\1 and lhecr lightnif'll. The bo,nm was • tun halo, and whitt $hell ~t ~ht comb. There. were (OUf spindle$: one .Mid o( rll'llf lia:hming with 8 whorl of ganncl al<ll; on< a 11kk of n..h liJhmina with • whorl ol tlllqiiOiac; 1 third had • .citk ol ,hcd 1-"'tl\if'IC whh • whorl cJ .tlo.loNe; a ~in strtamtt (Otawd the Mick of cht b.lrth. and iu whoft .as whhc WU. Th< N...;o alkd C..,.. do O..llr -r...;.• .....,,. >Odt ...,.... W>th d.. Sptnioh ,..m.,..-.~ e.cJdh........,._,.._kM wd>e>=a.Conrondoo .dlr_.....,..... IC CANYON DE CHEI.LY NATIONAL MONUMEN'll HBictml Spdor Rock,IICIO"" (144m~ A""Mid M- 900"" (114m). LOCATION M'D ACCESS c.n,.. ck O..Uy NodoNIMo<w..,., inclodt. Ill wb vi anyoo nmt lilftll ltoon oa the l'bv1Qo l:ndiwl R.tfv;ntoft M Mf._mn A,..,.._ M(lr the _, "' O.lnlt. Tho _,. ~ a.poood vf 11oft Con,.. ck o.dl. Con,... Od t.bno, ood CUI- - a . . - ,... ... 1.18 ..... NIN ...... - """'h- .... ol ........ - - lOO ood 1,650 ..... • ......... ""-=' ....... "'"'" aeet '" _. ,_... ptriodt 5-td 1n tht ~ "1'11c tncitM..,.. WI thc-- ...,.._, no-.,~'""""' c:...,.. • a.1r..,. 1100. 1 In lJJl 1hc: IIC* - - . • =r ..&. J br chr N......- PG::Scrrict. Th< . . - . - ~ locoool II ... (o.a.) " ' - dw - v i C..,... a..8y. Ntodoo uoo. ....._.)of.. ~eo...-..1 , .... - - - - - " ' O..U......t~----m.--"" .............. .... _ '-bo~·-t.r .............. II IS.."• (24bo) clkt oood wwh alooc d .. _,.,...,... rioo oC Conyon ck O..U,. Alono the rwN chn• we Ove O¥nioob. il.:ludinc" tht Spader R.oc:k owdook lomtd •t cht ts m1l.t (l4koa) ,..,., , _ tho Cftd o( tht poved oood oc the - . .... Tho """"""' """' tho """'""' ol C..,.. ck o.dlr ond - . , , Sp;lo.. Rock ;, ;. ..;... 1000 "" ()()Soo) b<low ........ c..,.., •ci'SbaJ"' "'h• """"" 0... ...... fint ....... "'$pick< Rock "'th "'" 0.0... .... MJrlt 1\Jwdl ~ "'We \:new atn.c. nochinc about- dimllmc on ~ •.. ~ kh m. 1ll't woulcl not onJy be flionetrinc • new route but!: aho wnunt t f'IC'W chapc~rt 1ft the h-,. of >Odt cl"""'n& in the - h- .. tht 6nt uctnt ol $Pdtr Rock was madt brio~ chc: N1vtjo Ttlbat Counell, lor rellgioul rcUON, mandated cht tmt.<cr oH llmi!J to climbcl$. Up to We tinle tl lhc fin1 Utttl.l the only katuret in the KMJthwat dtten tim had b«n climbc:d were Shiprock tnd Apthla. In the ~b.$$k .,Vtew (rOm Oread:hone Point" which ~red in A.Ja"r. 1970, Ou.ck Pratt rctl«:tcd on dw ICCOOd atec:OI he made o( Spitkr Rode wi th Bob KIMPt• " t have mttoofld o( l!m<l ,~ bok lo<ld<t~ whole bolu r.n .,., Vl'<kr lh< ~·, wclalu, ~ Kll<k in 1 ICW\((1 pc:llition on 1. phon uyina co p.~ll hit JW~dq from undtr hit b:lc, and tht -..mmit pi«:h. 1 licWd over • fbh lha.t loeb MIIOfOUS ~ to come o« In ~' at'INo for a while wt sand"" the ...,...., c-.apaks:ICil• ~ Uw 11ft nobody'• "'-nm bul our own aod dlCft $Qlt dowft. tN tine f'IIJi'IPtk ~ mcllflE .dm.l"" d\aln dw •Mt. Rmacinc ow «ICPOUI Gi dw: (WJJ'On ~ W tht U11111p01Pfldcprasion -hic:h • ¢ lioa In~ experien<;e that belortp 10 dw pMt~ "Returninc co lhe ~ic.n 1c: ~rr'-cre Gl Oli:nlc, we dtllf;.\lut ouncha • 101.C'i:5tJ lind ecfee dbcrmlr tQWard llw nncn hc-adqvartc:rs to And out how m~aeh oJ • trir we have CIIU:$CICI, b we know intuitively that Wnde we feel JO h;awr, we m~Ut have done tomtth.inc Ulcpl. '1\re you the: bo-p whet clhnbcd Spick-r R.od;t' We un't 1dl if t_~ ~nger b mttdy Cltriow or if he iJ ttYina: to <;ot<:h two c-riminals. After a !on$ p9U$C, Bob flNit)' ldmlu to IDe: crime and the r1:nger invita w intO hif offKt for a friendly ~hat- He inforn-w 1111 d\at 1hc IM:illl\$ are infvriated. It $CCint o (l()n(lave o( the most pow«ful tMdkint men •n N1va~ have juA: complec:cd a ch~·.,ar ritual c( ftn'ICW\nalhe curse fTOim Canyon ck Chclly dm .,..._ pl:accd there br the r~nt ~nt ol Spktc:r Rock: dw now lhcy .,., haw 10 .Urt .u 0 \'Cf • " ' and 66 �384- NAVA,)OU\NDS Federal tqubtions sttic:dy &'O"~rn aU visitor ua~l within 0an)'On de ~lly National ~ionumcmt, prl)(tc..r.ine the: privacy ol the Navajo ptOPie who farm. ral&t d'lttp. and make their hom~ in the Ganyons. Vi$iton ro~~St be ac.com(!Gnicd by a park rangn Of an authorlud Na\-ojo guide. (Renal hoon ~abo availabk.) The only t"X«ption rome 118\'t"-1 tt$tricdoos 4 tht White Howe Tfl'il, which i• a telf~i'•idi~ rr;~il with a $1)(CGI lt'•i<kbook obtainable at dle vbi.tor «:ntef. The tnil begir\1 ~Jt the WMte ~ Ov<:OOok, S mile. (8km) from tht cnd of the pa~ rot<d. The tn~il i.$ one milt ( 1.6km) lon.g. ,-.nctmid Maa illoc:atcd dirca.ly acroM from Spider Rock. FO!\.'AAUON De Chelly Sondo!O<\<. HISTORY Navajo lccmd AYJ t~t Ji Spidet \Voolan li'I(S oo the top of SpidCY Rock. If any of the Navajo eh.ildrm ~ MUght)', Whi$pering Rock nearby wh~ ovt:r to Spider Rock and Spickr Woman ~ from her liir, catche$ We n<~tJghrr children and carria them OOcJ,: to the cop o( the rod •·here she ~tl thw1. Tilt wmmic rocbofSpider Rod. hav~ been me lexhcd by q inW",Jtef, bving t.hc arm whire, ~mbl ing lhe bone$ of na-.a.ehtY childrrn Spider Wonun h<l4 eaten. ~r Woman ir\$CT\.Ietcd the Navajo •-omen how to ""-eave on a loom which Spickr Man told cheat how to make. The trowp<>lcs v.~re llWIIk of sky and earth coeds. me warp stida o( wn 1'3)'$. the heddlet of rock U)"5ril 11nd lheet lightni:na. The be.tten w;ll$ a $1.1n halo, and whitt. thell m3de the comb. There were fOUf spindles: one .~tick of :i.ezac li¥htnif'lg with " wht;wt ol oanncl CXXll; <1ne ll stick d flash liihtnina with :. whorl of turq~IOiM:O ;a chird had a t:tiek of theet l iahtni~ with ~ v.·horl <J abo.lone; a rlin $tf(~m('l' fonncd che Mid: of the {Qu:rch, .-nd its whQrl w:l$ white tbell. 'The ~ Vftjo c=allod Onyon de c;helly ''TM:JP." m~nina: rod: ~yon. With the Spanish spe.Uitla Mid English pronuneittton ~now know d.e a~ :n Ctlnyon de Chetly and pronounc:c: it •d'Shay." Don Wilson wrote o( his hiltork Am a.Kt'flt ol Spkkr Rod: with J«ry Oali'A'ti and Mark Po-4'ell. tommm.ting, ..We k;n(W almoK noching about climbing on sandstone , , • ~ (eft thn we .....,.,.)d not only be pioneeri"'J 1t new route bur alto wtirine: • new cM.puot In the history of rock c.limbing in die $0\l'th~. " The flnt uctnt o( Spider Rock wa.s made before the Navajo TriNl Coundl. for ~ligious rnJON, mandated the oowtr olf limiu to d imbc:t$. Up to thc: time of the first asc<'m the: only katuret in the «M.Jthwm dt.:5Ut that had been climbed wm: Shiprock and A$athla. In the c4sJk "'View from Deaclhone Poin'" which awcatcd in Asal\r. 1970, Ot.t.td:: Pratt reA«:ted on the ~ a.c:ent he made o( Spider Roc.k w•ith Bob KamP'o ..l have metoofiel of fined ehimnt.f$, bolt Weier~~ boltJ f.all out under the rope's weight, Kampsst\ICk ln a mor.ntel p:'IJition on a piton «Yin£ to JNII hi3 ~tka from unde-r hb foot, and the Sl.lrntnlt pitch, a li-ebold: t;'fVCr 11 fl.U-e char loob ttne)C'(HI$ enouah ro come olf in .omc:body's arms. For a while wt .Qnd on the Mnmit, cxpericr<ing ~erm,tioN that a:e nobody'' busint$$ ~' our own and then Mart down, the fin< l'lJW¢1' prOO~King more ~renalin dun the uccnt. Retracing oor$tcpJOOC of the tanyon~ fec-1 the temponry dcp{C$$ion which lltCCOmpaniuan vchilenniog elQ)erienoc: chat be:lor\gs to d~e p;!St. "Returnine to the CO$mopolican a~re of Oli:nk. v.oc di~1i$e ~nclvu aa tou:risu and ~ dtscreedr toWt~rd rhe nfl4'eiheadquaners tO llnd out how m~Kh ofa $fir we have c~. for •-e kfiOW inwitively that $inde .,.~ feel *l h:\111'1'1·. w.: m'* h;ave done somethi~ illqal. "Are you the~ who climbed Spieler Rod:t' We d,n'• tdl if the nrnee=r U merely e~ni<u or if he is ttyin& to (at~ two ~minah. After a long ~. &b r.nalty admiu to We «ime and the ranger invitn U5 into hi$ offtec foe a friendly d\lt. He informs us tNt the lndi~ are inNriatcd. It $C'CI1'I$ a oonda~ ol the mo.n ~lui mcdtcine men in Navaj<xbn have jl&$t c;ompleted " lhree·var ritual ()( remcwrna dlt cur$(: fTOm ~roo de Chcllv that waJ pl*'ed theA! by (he flm ilSCCn t oi Spider Ro d:: ( hat oow rhey will h~~ 10 tnM all O~'t'r • in and Spida Rock 67 �J86- NAVNOLANOS eM bbl. thtns ((w "' to do woutcl k to 1ta\'C on d~~t next u11~ OJ JQmtthma,.. '"On 0111' WIY OI.M of town f t "OF oat c~ (o(al nad!n1 poM a1'1CJI 80 In lO klok far an icecream b.t. The ~~tee It AUN with Na~jos and within half 1 MCOnd dw «mvmttiOnal lwm dropf to the rolnc whrtt I couW ha\~ hwd a (nther ll,llu'l lt. ahadow ttin in a eor-nn and an lndiM bluh ll\;t 1 ~~~lo loomf above m.t t i I lean for d~ door. 'Old fO'I dimb Spckr Rock r he wwnu to know. 'Why yu.,' I ..-u. reach~ for the doQrknob. "now thac you mm.t:ion n. I d..t. &.. t.httt:'t .ncxha py outtdr who cbmbed Jl 100.' Sprt.i che: J'&ilc Mid do< ~.....,. t.. .._...,.,- m. lopo ol ~o-..-.., 'Whoc dod,.., flDI on 109r lt'• t.d C'IIOIIIh., poM.. "PP" . . "'U1' $ [\'U'f ~ .. pi~« • cww Clft cht- bnd br clnbq sp.;ltr Jt,;d lout 10 CONJNicc dww dwmhcd m:ythl t:A cbt Sp.ln Lady wcM6 bt ..,... co £x. "'''c found • pk f1 Wr.ctwd ~on the ccp.• Now it's 10 quWr I Cal\ twa. niOiccukt ~ in ma... Slowty I .tCM1 curnste tht ~ M dw buffa\o W:o GnC ltC'P ..,..•.,.nl moe and, dt:Q'IONCI"lltl"l 1 M~Y~bbk ~ with cht nwnca and COtii'IOtllt*'- ot a . . . . . . not c\-en lw natl\·c tonii!JC, 1Mb. 'Wlw do you talc me 1bJ - a foolr and the room erupts lnto h\'M.Ctkl.l bu&f\tt:r. I pd'ICr lhe pieces of my ~.uon ltlng t'8(1 • otf d'toe: lloor and arrr them OUt the door In MY h~,. WARNINC Spider Rock b .acttd to the N~jo. and dln~nk It would '~"Y likttr, rtSUit In trOUble: of K'lmt: ldi\IJ, «minly a 6~ cht.,..... iC:!UMnr"'.,...,. <il SPIDER ROCK v S.JOd Nine pitthH. Orialnally d-.btd • a S.3 A) rout~. du rmc ~c. br Den Wihoo. Jerry llwy ani\oed on ).tark Po--dl. tcoClk about 30 houn dtlflbi,. aNI . . . cbe -*lftUC M I 40 ,_ ).brth JO. 1956. About 2S or lO tolu •'«tt ~ ~ t«<r'XX ~ .ur.. aau.... - -- ,.... bra-d Pttct IN Bob~ Apnil.S..~6. 19160. The chiN ...-em • ._ br tbn•oey T. C.tft and l.a,1on Kor. MaT Z0. 1961. 'T1v fount. ucmt . . l'nlt ~ lhc kPWft' WJCb TM ~~. A,nl. l96l. PriU RtuJntd ap.n .n Ap\1 ctl1961 for llht &nh ---. c;ha ~ """"· Layton K<w Md Urry llt.llc ftladl: tilt linb ~t ' " NO\o~ c:A 1967. Thor fOIIU w.t~t flm doN by O.,v.c lontt •n 1962. and diC' tint fru atetnt wu INdt by Tom Coecrlff' and Todd Slunnn in Occobn d 198J. Tbt crux WM • S.tOIJ oifwrkhh rw•r the- w:mmir. 68 �414 - NAVAJOL\NDS NAVNOLANDS - 4 15 •howl• hll'\ll alider landinc on the Totem Pole and there are no doubt HOOVt:r film "Up• othtr au<'l"pfba that hive incotpOnt«<. W spetracul11 andatone .tuft in their pn:cramt. On aa. Gdy attt:mpt tO d1mb the ToceM A*. Otvc Meeattr and peny wt« dd(:utd by tht •idt cncb on rht tc!OOnCI ptdl. In an anta'll)t 10 ficuK out procC'C'don on chr ltCJh duN ol rock • ~ thtr mwncd tO t.btct tw::.e io 8cddu. Colortdo. ••lh • at c.fllt' uruWNtJ' ~ ll . . chcyo:lUid c:::wrJ. It..,.. Gbn to tht ucifwc••c dttcnt>in<d d u < - ....... that haw bttn ..U.., on..,... .,., hold on 6.. ,........., rock. On tlx ...-! tnp M<Calry. Tod Rubtd. and Tod Cohmy flew to Oouldon(t T...J,nc ~ accompmkd by O.vld Mun«h. the phoo:)cooetKr. and nWIW:rout woodtn wedta. IW't.Uinc in t'WO bucbtt cl water. Har-ry Goo.khna drove the t~m. to the ~• •re they wt1t .,aln thwan td by the: fllllina wide aach of chc KCCod pueh. On d.c f'int Netnt cl the Tott:m Pole W key to 1he IO'fo·e• 1eacb tuu\t:d out to be tpOCi.al ah.anirwm channel PftoN dw worud fn lhr ofttn nari"' w&cle crxb. INidc b Jc-:rry aau .... • , tlx _ . . . o{ Jcl>• S.bthl.,.,. ........... tlx ........... o{ y,.. a....lnotd't ..... anck ~- ptont. Jt iJ•nt«t::C:ln& to note that rhC': ~~dane dirabc:r Ht<..,. T. C..tu ....SO on - o n tbt 'Tcuto A* ., 19SS and tpln "' 19S9. lie Mo and boch ,.... - podxs .... dUDl>cd - . "" bn>oclu ...!<, -iolly ..ldod putnu _,......, ..Mod ., dunb bqj>u. The A* It mta•nlr ... lot m. fain< ol .,_,, MM\. Powell writa abouc tfw Gnt ttemt tn an Apnl. 19S8 Swml'lic ~ •nklt. •After our ftl$( asct:nt ol C.nyon de Chtlly's Sp;dt:r ~k In M.arch. 19S6. Jttry Oallwu, Don WUJOn and I, plninc conOden« in and$t0ne di.mhint. ac1led ~m·s Needle In watt:rn tor r~Juanu in 19SS, wt N"" Mt'XIro. Havlnc prcvlowly vbit«< Monum~c ~ awatt: of tht ur~mc protM~ presenttd by che Toc.cm Po&e. Rtsana from wlnd·pockt:ted and .tw.s. • JOO.Ioot pile ol ""'~' dln and NN>Io rumlthco on unotabk pcdaaol. Tho tmol itt .......~ . . . . . . 41)0. loot tlmdu - . .._ ... .u .& and bot<ly 1S d imbts. W~!Qm r....m. .. pJann..l - • . _ lot tbt Wrth d.. oddodon ol • _,o{J9S7.· - cleoml.o tlx ._ pd<d>oi m. ct.ob. •n.uam.r block..... - .., .u <ida. h ....p~c,.~y mcu<lcd .... harioonul ............... .........,. <x""<'o ,......,. m. rock .•• cht PC*'~I•'f ol itJ U)(ttriflc cntt«d cu mlndt and emu~ • JOOd de-It of ccncttn. .. He JpCab of a r$ fron\ wotk on tbt fb&t. -Two niny dlfl were p;osed by incnmt.na tide uipt. lbe Gould:it!Cf we~ wry ho.plr:abk, rc-:bdf'll hKiNti"f ttorit1 of their manv yt:an in Monument Valkv." They rettltntd tO tM Polt:, ..A SO mdt ptr hoot gale whipped up the ..nds. fumlshl.ng Don and QUI II fabuJou. pruiMik, tomttlmet blowing dw:tft hal£ WI)' arooncf the tpi~ and forry f'.tet frOm the rock. 1be tummit wa~ 1-..~n.ry ft~tc ,quan. and a tm.atl cairn with il rqistt-t ..... etOttcd. .. S.... R..,.. once doocnl>od w T"""' A* oso "fanomc ml Wft.., tb;n and ~Y book ""' m. ~· o{ cl............ .n.dlon """"-" ., body.. 0... M<Cany """'" du< when Th1 ~'made tbt ...-!.....,. ol tbt T - A* TOlD ln 19S8. bt plartd a rftOIC l>uarre pnctical jole on hit pumm.. Ju hd (london and o... R<an<k odouml tlx ....._. """"".,. ln>m tbt "'"'"'"· TM qukkly 6td the rOpe$ co hit a.nkltt, the-n dangltd them out of •itht at the eclp of the wmmk. ~ ~ kc oot a loud vcas~ted cry, ~ no. th~ JOpH!" Wanded on rbt wmmlt tJ d\t plan«'• aiH, chinnut roc.k cower would eeuainlv be • ludlc.f'OUl way co col In Bt)OOd Vtrlird. Loyron Kot ljlCOi:i o( lhc IUI'c o( d1< J'olc. "I Wl'lltd 10 <limb II "'I .,_UMnt ._a "''ltv r... - .. TOTEM POL£ - YEI 81 CHEf TOWERS (Fire Dancns): HEICirTS T.,.... A*, iOO 1ffl (Ill,.): Yn bo 0... ,._, m lffl (84m). LOCATION AND ACCESS The T'*m l'bk ,.~oc=~ obout • boll mlk (0.81cm) soum.... t:J the futhat M:~Ud1•'Utern point of the loop roed which c.itc~ whhln tk Nava)o Trlb61 PA•k of Moownc:nt Valley. The Yel 81 ~~ Towc:t~ are the promlnt:m l~ndlortrt1 just -'OUthean o( the Toctm Po&e. The Iron Mnn b the .uoncl major to~r toud~t~t ol the Torem 1\llc:. HIS'l'ORY ~ TOtftn ~lc It POI'tblv lhe thinnest, t2lle~e IOV.'CT in the: wot~ and Cif'nalnlv In Notth America. Sn-.oe it i$ loetttd on the: Navajo Indian ~vttion i~ a((a$ IJ subject to the whimt ol the Navajo mbt; a.~~ndy cll.mbinals prolubited. At the timed me c:arty aKlMU thttt wu-c: no such ratrittioN. The 'Tcuto A* k"'" ho-..t ~ In 1975 rt . . , uocd In tlx 61o.q o{ tbt 0... £a.cwooJ .spr thnUer -"T'ht r_.. Sanc.don., • and 11'1 more: ftlC.mt fUM't b a CIOCDmlettdl .,,t.h an l&.M COfQplen and bewdclcrtd looklnc Holtywocd .arln atop lc. tinr mmm1L The M1h team."'"'*" w badly and. let& ('.()ftef:t'M\i with manm of CONGimcc l;n due dayS thin I am ~ wt cl<mb. • bin and ontalt io ., do doddtd to ~ The llftb- ol tbt TO<cm A* . . ....SO brt:... Wyriclc and Eric B;omotad dortno t1x Rlminc ol "Tho Eic« Soncdon. • In_.,_.. wim tbt N•- Tnl>ol o..w:;J 6.. - . cualyK b lixod ........_ Thlt wa ;, pon .,.,.,tcuuy clcon<d. lcowlnc l'bk. .....t- &a ol Bond.co N<w. N<w.l.and ....,. on "tabll.l>mm< ol w m. m. r... w m. m. m. 69 �416 NAVA!OLANOS NAVAJOLANDS- 417 For <he Yet Bi Chel Towers <here seems to be an endless vatiety of spellinp. Evtty post eanllw a different spelling and even <he liternture available at <he Tribal Parle Headquam" ..... varlow sptllill&'. Tile Yei Bi Chei Towers (Fil<: Dance") .....,mbie <he Navajo dancers who •PI><Ot on <he 9th and laot night of <he tribal winter religio<» wemony known ., <he Night W.,. TOTEM POLE - Novthwest Face IIIS.7 A4 Four pitch... Tile fint uc.ent ,.... made by Malic Pow.ll, Jeny Oallw.,, Don Wilson, and Bill (Dolt) Fwem, June 11·13, 1957. The.-.<~ ueent,.... by Dave Rearicl<, TM Herbert, and Tom CoMon on Docembet 15. 1953. They toOk 3\', days. The third ascent wao made on November 22, 1962 by Layton Kor, john Auld, and Rlcl< Hom, in I loS days. The fourth asctnt was by Roger Dalke and Tom Ruwitch, in 9 hour$. The fihh ascont was tn 1975, by Ken Wyricl< and Eric lljl1fnsutd. TOTEM POLE - Southe<l$t Face- Newr NetJer Land Ill 5.10 A2 me Tlu<e pitches. Tile first as<e(lt- made by <he Bandit()$ in 1979, sixth a.cent of <he To<em Pole. The second uc.ent of this mute by Jim W."ih and Bill Fon.,, in 19132, W3$ <he s<ven<h .,.ent of the Pole. Tile third asctnt was made ~mber 28, 1985, by Chutie Fowl.,., Allison Sh«ts, and Kyle Copeland. The first solo as<ent of dte &pi"' was made Jonuary I, 1986, by Tom~. followed by Dave )on<s later in the year, (or the ten<h overall .,.ent of <he Pole. YEI BI CHEf TOWERS Ill 5.8 A2 Four pitch... Tile first O&C<nt was made by Glenn Rink and Jeff Bowmon, Mmh 10, 198-t. A Bandito route, the climb ~nded a fracrure line on the southwest *e of the landform. First 4$Cent of rht- Totem Pol.:, 1957 &ill Fcucrct 70 �The National Geographic Magazine Vol. CXIV, No. 6, pp. 830-­831, December 1958, Better Days for the Navajos, Jack Breed & Charles W. Herbert 71 �Summit Magazine, Vol. 22, No. 3, pp. 24-­29, June 1976, The Totem Pole and the Eiger Sanction, Eric Bjørnstad Two articles of interest that reference the first ascent of the Totem Pole follow. The first, by Eric Bjørnstad, appeared in the June,1978 issue of Summit Magazine. Eric was contracted by Clint Eastwood and Universal Studios to put up ropes on the Totem Pole for filming of the movie, Eiger Sanction. As part of the contract between the Navajo Tribal Council and the Studio, all foreign objects were to be removed including the expansion bolts and film can register that we left on the summit. The story is told in the Summit article. The summit register now is at the Bradford Washburn American Mountain-­ eering Museum in Golden, Colorado thanks to Eric and Steve Bartlett. The second article appeared in the February 1985 issue of Arizona Highways. By John Annerino, it recounts the use of the Totem Pole as the site of an IBM advertisement photo shoot. The first ascent is mentioned in reference to use of an expansion bolt on the summit. 72 �... .,., .,._" ..... .,._ c~ ~,,.., f·- ~ u,,...,., ...-.. ,,._'" '~" ... , ,...,. ~ C.o4fwood, ... -- the totem pole and the I,..~..,Nra.H-. ........_,_ .u-u..,.. ~.,u.~-w .,...,.. s ' ' - . .,. ....... ' * -.. --w a.... st..twoo4 ... u..;......, S&.M"-. w,. fob ...:,.. bwa ~ 8-. ~- ., &lit ~ Pll• b1 UMI • I lwln found myHI.f ~ and"*' lft'iOh'... lfl tilt-~ fie Mll'lpetit.iOD aDd perf»JII t~ . . . M tl\t f41mblll« INUI"-'II&y, I hn.. lul(t a grAAtH utp ~ 1t1111" my prlvatlll rt.ae... f'« )'9Anll now thOM ,,..._.urtd cltn\M have bwn ma t~ hifb d~ of llfM:Ith..ttern Utll1t, Ttleru emMI.I•iah p!.t$1ua 111111 tJ•t Wl'Wiy crOO'd 4)AeyoM of tile Colotlklo Rlv~ .,. toii'IO ol Chf, IM&t ~ ~ tkndillc 1-0WfN I~ ~~ WOf'ld, ,....,. •I'! u~ Ia *"'O!Jwrif ~~ N t..b•• welt ~.,_,., - hicfw!r' !.h. tlrtpln St.*- buildiq. an!: .nd l.bimw ~ el a natlw~ 1IOfc ~red&. ~I)' ftlllod ............. t.o-1 lll&nUI olllld rodl-sl ~· ............ ~~~,...~ ~ lty..-...,. .............. a. ... ~ wru. -~nt ..., Cl:la:lot ouoo.. o-.. tt.o. _,..... ..... to . . - ai& s- 1"1Moow'" r. u. lP7 GJaa ....,.. ECer . . . to ......,-.~.~~~~~~~~. hire.~ JIIU1.Mf and "JNt 1M fOt* up·· for the 6bl'tll eiger sanctio n .,...c .a-. .... ~-- dllt "'-" 1011 .. pnenl ...,us-c c. b.Gw ............... w•• I tM:~t.ad.eli ·~ . _ l c.._bow Kee Wpoclt lin ~ X.. ud I had c:lu111btd c.nlorubly ~+­ ~MII6ft.Mttt •nd 1 - MlreiW!w'*ld t.• Ppt' - J fur Lhl6 d11 .... on thflir JflllloH'VatloCift llf.'\'ttlll >'Nnl bdo,... J' ortutll~ for llotlywoed the Tribal CollDCD had 1011• hfl.ml unll.am abolrt ll~e cku.erilla Utdwue leh 011 tlw ''hill" ko7 tlw ~ Jlft'Yiour ~~. A C"O..- ..,.wl4 tlt.h• bo 6Gpo.!\td by holkoiK..-atop ont- of Clot~ or ........, Ill tlilft wilily N bit Utu:od t l\ tN. cnw, I IIWI'Iftcl Millt I ft'llllllbtr of f)UUtaJ!dmC Wlwtnl and at hllt til. 416--foot 1'cltele Pole ~II.. The t>rOO!ttu Wb It wa• kM.-.t«J _,. thu Ut<O)• Ml~n bot-tler whhl" the Nt.,..jo•a 'l"tlbol Pnttl 111M tho lrocl!nnt Nd prohibited a ll d lmblniJ - lflld. • • • ""''I'l'-...d -~ :..eluded • ~ "' I:ICIIIIId •IWI • ptra"""" U..t the "PM" woaW a,. frM:I ol ..........Coft'W • • ClllllldliuiM Ill IJit ""'"'* W&ll a~ ....... ~ H _. t.Mweod. M Uw ,._, O.WIIIP ~ Po.l 111ft LIM! ftfotfnatitA. A• H1Joo71Ne d&7 WM We bf«• l\ wnrit In the P'AII, 0..• ~ jllb OON~ - •· lin• though no IUM uelt.l•lf• Y.1cl1 ..SlY al da'~~'•• m.wt or our pru.rll 1"'-. · - ~ . . . . . . . . . . ow ... ._ ..... .__...._..,...•• :a he 0. ......, ..,.. ~ . . . . . . . . . . . t. • _,_,. ...,.... .............. ,... JrM'tp ~. wt- ""*- 0.. rwth,_l)' ~~I noj'llld "'- p U... bill; ott 0.. Copter to .a-d. and I ......_., •*'- tbt'"' w tht Ul\)' tum.mk ~ ,.. btyl)!'ld f'M(':~ 'At llfiOMJN Wall ~ena.J. J lf'I'IM Nr.k 111111 ftlll!l)fd r.- • liUk lfta ltilt.ano.. 'l'bt otb~ rod lt u ... «'N:~ h•r P'IWI th\ momilll( tollowiJI.I I vkoklnt wlftlhctll'm . 1 • • about balfwq "P u.. Ulltil li'I·Ufik .o t.ht •rouw Poll. lla'f'Ult j\l~ JIICM!nd out lJI ~ I ••• .... ~ .... ..O..flltlw rapt~~ . . ....... '"'-t ~-~ 1M ........ l\51'e w .. ,........ *' .... ..._....-c. . . . ................... .. ..... - . . .• _,__,.lnl ....... *nidi.• ....... ,_ __ , __ .,.. -""'* ...... - u. .. ,_.e.. ....... · -............ •v---"· '*'- .a. u. .. _.,......... 1fbere - ~ t.e tlw U~poldte ........ "• ...... ~ .. . ~·~ ...,._..~ ~ • i&ll ~ ~ )lott.,.. ......... eo.ld \t . . ....,~- pewed ...... . . . . ~ AlMa 1Ji11L U.S 0... bMD • ...,... • cnck .,._. • ..._ ..... I ..W . . w - : t "- I li~UC ....,...,.s.1 ia 73 �,«-. ~ r ., ~ ·~:: •/ ___. tMa .., .,_...., w ---~ ... ~ .,.,. , .,.~··"'- ..."__ ,_.,,.....,.,..,...... ..... . ., .. .. Jot- .. .. ....,~ ..... .. ......... ..¥ .. ... ... ....... INt.IIIMI,.,._ ....,.,.Ill .,...., cM.Ie.w , _ WW!C'• .,..... 1(. . 0t1 IH ro,.m ,..,., Tho Totem Pol• and lhe Ei~r ~nction tWIII!1p wert ~~ly c:oadudod 'lrith Urltw' Jill~ ~ and • btWttlg oa !.lie ntlt day't ,__, dll'*- tvruf, W.l.h ,...,,..,_WI:·~ I ·~ f'tdillt 1.0 tM lbn•loML I M'('l(i P.tlliL. l,itd ill 00 &lid -nc.Mr.d ~~ (Otldk~ tht tint !~boY• wa, IL Tl't r'OPH bad t.a •'-"d t.ht liaM l>fGorr" bot ~ hiP wind. hlld -~~~~ lO -~· 0. ptr1oA- lM .,,........ ..."""'- HoOoqlio (A) oNnl...... !l:.wrwlp. Tt.tte ~ othor ~lt oC t'X(".t.tll)eot u • ._ wwM 1botlt our tllllitlpk. Jobot tJl rla"'c ~ ~·· ""'-dnf 11p aocbton for~ Uld andlof- looe.,. 1m....,...;"",,_.,.,,.""""' ~h -'"'~~ .tt- • bllt....., ~~- OJIP'II.-.d block II:) Goukl· lnp . . . . H~. t:M\• 'OOd lJ)d 1 ..odflll oC «'*'t ...... boloNitd. ,..,. bUYM:t ol 'k "'"" ~'fd 1\ lllfll~kLt1 IIIII il .. Durlfll t'- IWO wotoi~J we W61:1 to mote. tho "'tear$'' aad fc:w • ~a. Mel a pvt ol *"'*hizl¥: irnportaM tu•ppec~i;ot. ~ day lM!C.'S1IIfd a liW. llll)f't ~JCe~lins the!! btlote. •"i~u,. ell• tn~. w.- ina: compaay r.u.mtd lO HoQyw(.od. The •h<en· t~rt o1 WOrldf13 1UMC13 the army of (*"ff..nei .... patt. TIM Vll1~r wM ~~~~and w-""Ue on«! more. I ,.., a:rac.ifiud that the ' 'Polo" l~Jalo ~ 1.0 tli& lnditttt. It wat Ironic: thM. tbe lut NOI!DI sboukl heve bfeo IIIUfl'OUnded by wc.b fMfar., but tbt Qppy note Will tlill , . M(l 001'1\t. ....,. ftom out d!mb '"vine c.ht -.o....... ill bttlor C'Ofldition INt.n ""·bton we •'-'rttd. 0 -try K.,-~""" \ 74 �Arizona Highways, Vol. 61, No. 2, pp. 29-­35, February 1985, Clinging to a Crack on the Competitive Edge, John Annerino l""'""thtr~ ....•'•*'...... n Wftl•lhi"''; ""'h•<<'nllr flylfll,. m,,. l~ft' ~-::;~~o:~~~.'~t:."!::, ~'i:. «'ff''"" h,l(>lly 'f'UI h - ~ fnN_....nll .m..-..tt" il• _...-,.11 (,.,1 • • .&~ldy tollj'o.tr~lhtiiP•~Utl'qhc.,...,. «. i( nml t.., -.. k~ In lhr Nmt Jkt ~ I l~ht~t 1h.o1., tl\tf<>., oi "' oUmm...S ocro•• \ton\1-lfOI \'oltty 11!).T ~ PHOTOOI.U'IO' I'VJOH.'l .\"\SUL"O 75 �. . .__. _._.._-·. . -,."*··. . . . ,.,_. ..._._...,._._ - ~ ..... """"""" __ _ ""-'•-·-·......._ S ............. _ ... _ ...,...... --..-..... .... --· ....._..... ~ ·-----·..... ........... ........ .. • - ... - llM'-tlri.l~- . . ~.. ..-.~. ~ -·-av~··...._MtiiQU:L11121(.1~ ··-~ -~.~ ~ • .. , 76 �If you think the spire is impressive, just look at the shadow IBM “secretarial services” atop the Totem Pole 77 �--------------i~-------------llmer.rh • <t:lit\i; of rolcl. ltff )' ~. rh•t l,!,.nt.dtd much ai Nor rhr t " A n tOI'It fo.J ..... N1v.}u lrnii•nRHtrV,J It "'""J""II•ty U, tl~ Jr..! qf win· ' ' ' 111 ' " " ' p.lri C.. 'l'l!t o~o~htclt t or ti•, ll"on,...,tUII"Wol$ t(&l\lt'el'l d•!V'ff C. lh~ fhlp's 11f''•itl..,t windol'Nt .....,.,. do.r.1dtd Wlih • t;r•Y IAyttof (r~J~Sil •M rloti5P4t· ,.,u••h>$ wc•rl!u w n •bour 10 • ltul don·l'l rhls O('ol"r•riQn f)'lo"f'kldT. Th.,t fi•w-wlrhl'l'lt. ~uw, if '"It In • lu.rt.!o-f'l.'wtrfd l'J[IIbot•ttr bf. w•- ny. nur h~et&H.r&)l l•ytrofCOo>lWhlvlh.. i drn••tmtd IG •v•IIN tl.. - "' ,u ~1 tnl)tlo""'' ""'lflf'll $"lnngt, rht m.-li"" "'•'d •mh.\rlPdo" w~PS ~""'"nuns~ Yuu\~ noM tho<t •ll·'•'m(obolr c:um• t'l'ltrc~h whc-rt :JoOCI1fOtlt' lttld U"'fft\· 910)·td ICIOI$, jovro-.lrH' bcrw~r n •J. .IIIIO~tllf. •nd flt.4l/n:t ' ' " n lo""" ONI 10 tr~•kt. oUtnt ll!l!nudvH~ ~I fw "" ""'~-Mio:o •1_,., wh•r loW.• l:\ t "" U>~~Kd.N.- ..., .,,;:) A I>HI«lprtr f'll l il ~~~.of touN t . \~11,...-.. p<.,.,t'IU ..J we (OJ "'~ ~·.IIJ.1•.K'f<' Mcm~"'""' Vo~lley N.\·,..... lrlbl f'Ml •• eht~ft'IWr lllt.il~• (~ • vt 1uy ol trutruin1~tt U'\'n..rkls. Bm $1AjpC'lf;" \XItn.mndd .11op II·~ Tvcc•u P"'c ""'' Wt u SC:\1t:• "'""!"$ il•$~'""''"n .lo(f ft't lhl' n.~rof Man..m.tnl V•ltt)' IWr '"' t>Dtl {m ~f$fr 11!J / $YI-No: fiH. llf'"k ~0 11 1 1~<'" tH'I .ltr<ltt1 !hut. oo problfm l'h.tl't whu Arl~ Outd<Jor fJ!~Il· ''*"" nur OOoeti(W 0,.~ C11\d 1M I u .d 10 onr 1no1hn onf) ew..I'IIY·fwt houn Url.,rt , wh1'11 wr lllt'l lndfl'lt'o.drlll ;\rtl«t rro..t...,~r Po~vl R - 1~ ''kw • P~Ar~f.n~pt.h04 ~ llftu<nmlt At tl!.u timr. W t ...'O oM ·~ h.o(l our f«t i•tft'lly .,-.oo\1.-.f 1J1 ~~ Wltll\, !hide l'MJ'•~ Ill F1lm l"rod<l(fl"• '"'""'"·!4.1k' tn Phorl'lix wl'l11c • w~~:MI !•II ()( $ 500 l'l''"lfr'• chNk ~ w•> he1"S ,..v~ In froru <>fou-r f~... Of rount. "S.oror, oil() pr\'bkrn." wo~J Ill~ ti119'Wf r, 1!111 Ihe tol.i r-t.1111ty u! oo;-r~iOOn w•l •b<.lwt tV$m•d,ud!o( " ' II<JWN'fy""' lh~ <hctl.. thr OOIOlllfnl ~rtlrollii(•IT...miOf)' I)'~Wf'llfr, Al\d A ~rl'ltfy •Uop ehr Tvtt m Polt 11> Moo• Wh.,..v~r derided o n. Mo ""n.""' v,.,.. ,~, ,h ~ ·httf'l' l«•l.iol\muu v~Mnt v,uey N~~W M<l!\ utnl!tlf V•llcy ""' lo~ hew 1lw •ruins fot a•.w\n l1k.t My lhtlt~ Cltw~t~lllt, H1., l\'Hf W..s Wo)r,. CA.eyt..w A¥JII11t.., TAr E(tw S..w··~~~, RtrJot.tf/ l~rf..,.r ~J\'X"· eon•~N>bue• f -. So lht prt<fdoettl h,1ll.1ltNdy ~n eoo.f.~ t•fl r.,.,.. IWt 1" M ....... ...,n~ V,tllt)t. TAl J#JIJA<~t <p•" br1ttv JW,. ~,.. 18.\n ...- . .\0--wtlt• "''"'""'.J· rw,.. l!l.tto h.11d .In"'""" btttr r .Ju l« .... tBM t umtMrd.ll. (OM af et.n,.... "I '!I"J $('+ 1f w .. ( <>"top tlwe"' loku). Pc.t J ~ SO. I'OI.'fld lllfkt d~. AI\ ISM Modoel u 'Ut ll'lll'" #OliO(~·. ~.,.,& ~J- f{ ·~ wc lo)ud\~ cf.,....,.~ rl.c •.,,.mJt of thtTllt-"' Poet Af•~•n1f\5o oh.. t I•. otu. "'f',lil~ hortJ .. .. ty,... ~uucn 1ht!t ....1r• , <•~. Tr ue. r..\.lnu rfltl~t Vtl!cy . u..:hnJt.,U~· .ld~Ho>-<l. flt\1.11trd .n il i1 (ft til( 0\)Uthf.>Slt':U'I ptliph~ ry or l.hc C:rt<J I B•)lro Ot~ll B..t.t u. '"~"ll!:lnW SOlO l c-.-1,11 h u• lOt MOtt W. ~.-HI W1lh 0\>111~ (If j },l;' othn hlsJI ~,,_ ol thot h'()tloi ----------~~---------So Wt did haw • ftw d!itW 301~ fut IISl iJVNlpilool&nd t llntt !Nd!iM~IIO t},. fa« tlw.t ~1\d •nd 1 lwJ wortH ~ttlwr- " n4er tl•t tui'I - M te-vful othu ..1'(1(). dlm.Ntlc( <-Om111trd~l-. eue wt tt.d n.tvtt Mforc workN ti)J~thn 01.11 of • lot w,nl.,<11m•~ It •""-· ltldt.,cnocl....l Aotl•t.. h..! I•J ~ll,lftl­ h h.w! booM (Of\lr.lcttd h> ohuo!, ...It~~, • nd dttwcr • !hlny·W.:llnd Jpol fot !},,. \'1/J j (Jj .._.,, tcl..,.bi.ota m1n.1HritJ t.hM would dfbvt On ~· th•tl 1\'!\ !N)'ll. A>f· 1<11\( lwd •ltot.ldy ~~~ "'"~h.of.f4 At ~(ll.i,J. U.r S~.OOO• M!nue•, t<l1f lh• COIIU'flt«i•l d1ol"'' Rr. '~Vmt h~.td· wwld d~fin;.~tly tvll. ;\lth~h wulhf~ w oli b..d •nJ tim~ thO.! I. Wf . . t ..., IM~t <h<>p~>C~ p>kot ~n r hid tv~r u.,....~~ h. l.niH Jlmo" it l . J1111~ <J( Rocky tlln ttdie"PIH'S A \ liftiW.tll tom&.u vr(tl<ln bro~h.t tn "P'Nity (1)1 rM. s..... of u• "'•I Mol•"· Woot. he lw•i.ltc:d 1ho: Alou«tc n L.omll - ,..,._t, In ;u ilt1wf'ft • out:rc nttru!Ofl ~llit tlw u5ltlt. ll~""' •utsnRM1'11 ·~~. w•t Ill> d<-10\.1 j,, fn)' o( ,...,of w.,• Uo.t.o fl'n...d • it ._,viJ hoo <>ttributo~blt 10 1•0. •u-f'(.rb fly'"f ..1.•11• •...! th• I.Am•. A l..l!nA ftA"t ju-U ro..u., oouprJ· ur \ 't't$lon of 1.1!11 dw)pl"'r oe, lht ('ll(!flm'l$ oot"·': 1t'' an 370 thl!e hcu·~"J!OW~r .,..'()f"l;bor<;ot whith d"-hltjcv~W\NI u'<'lf ltutn .. otbu htr.c.h. li l liAn, " " " Amtrk.l l'l ('(oh)o('r•(• (In JuM l l. 197!. u by dimbi~ t~ •o.AN fff-1 .,,.lkvpt.,... net tt.•• ""'k...own •nd Itt undtriyln.. fur would WOJfllf"f ..., ui!J"hud.. A rotOtCf4h h,, 1h.e dit(l(lol(ffl1flt d •ilnCtt ritlk of btl~ •bit 10 tr•Mporl lh P-~•6ft~t•tt from Wtty tOd.lflV-1In I ONtt~ of ~dt,. in our (_, tl>•t trwant the dith.otomy bttw~n w.ull\ phnh f'OOCni 1111M ~1\U l~lid•y lo•n to tM.rold. wlf'od•fW\'PI If\~ of Mllfl· 9mtnt V•lkf. Th" f'lotiOI'I wtt ff(Of'ldtd ~ 01.17 ,ut;>Jtiltlt •nd t-Jiltr JtitNtd Nr~ •bol.lttht lime thl' TottO'I Pok fitet tall'lf' U'\1(1 IM~ .11 M•r"l(, tiM.I.ftiOII'I \lwwn P\'oal of rvcJ: tlltt Wtii\C'il tv driy ,.,,. ..,,,.. n•t"''"' f.:.«H tlw blllol< dli1.1wu~it'dllt'l.tf'l,crtlwo:\"''(" ll...l...lly "'*""~ted." he: thb.ttto$ !!'tO mrt•. 8"1 It wun~t. Ar.d thr ~ - 'fpt'O.I()\~ I . . ~WKOIM fbl •tort'fd """"'k., tl.l.' mOO"f w ;o ffi!IU~ tt..-rew•~ ~k<ll"''"tr no musin fOf trrOf «~ '"" n of t.l., roto• W..&tt alappl!!S. tlw 11r abovt, now Mt , •._tiM~' for ..-y lw.rt .t.mmil'llf. ~tt MY ribro&lf.f. N1f/tf.oos •"Y 01 .,.. had tver doM \ltfort ~Attly ~~ "' Fot tll.t J lltn.11l .ijlptol(h lO tht Mllllllflll of tlw •nYQ1lf'f ~.-1 - (nu.rly .r~ty ptticrr...t, h.-4 th~o-t ~ •hot d~ •rod lCl'flf jW'II:"Ik•l WAy llf ~~~up" Attd 1f hr cwkln' Uilf' thf •hiv (rv"' th,....•ot~&· o1 w0oM btcralty "'nttlt Into 9i«n •~ diJ;1o\t(Jr•tt • A.nd llo03. with 11. "'You l"'Y' wllhn,. tl)jull\p .. rll hold 11)1- t.hlp •nd tfll you whotn mywiNI('llillfdlta•wAitinafotJOMtto slvt mt the '"'noll to bl'tl:ln unlo,~ Nliow WOII~ UUH tht s.hip to VJbUif. u• IOII'J,'" Tht wotdt hu"$ th~n-. (tf'ftt'.fumr. •• ,.,,..., ,.m~rt'<Cih~ pcd.ll• •ood u rdv lly m'tlt'llvt•foll ~~ ()<lit> .eiel. rooc bc-l""ftnh1,~.... I I~ II C,.n(i. tht l'l II N~>bl.'\tt, "~~~~ ftt"'l to d•t Qf'POJ'~' dQQC" ,.,., tn.ow.dustt<cl tumlt'llt co( tile Toktfl Polt wa, 01'11.'11 6i<h of thf hdkY9t~•·· ;uu • few ftott brJow. I'd htY\' IO to fiK4 . IJ\11 llt1--.c"' the tt101t ~Ad tl'>t ,wnll'lit w.u 1/1 ~ttotn·lndl widt «tip ol tft'lpty ~~. &nd 600 ftrl below, 'tOUn4 Awrl vout!d. jute w~1t1ftt tG s udt lllfth~ lniQ "' $1knt grip.. """" . , '"' ........if.: /.>..i t«t ., .~. J~Mn!l Thot thoudlu Ut:tlf iMI;Jr\(tlvtly ul<opr<led tl•toih.oll'liatl..m.•(r•lt't4f'lt:vi· &1•16\Jo::ll' with "'J&ll)ved t~t Nt!d .11M wlioi1otd fot )oft«' tfenN At'ld thttt l wu- UMidlAIIOfl !htlcy (•rl.on·~ .en11 of ~ jtot h, li(Qpl•r dtfyl~ lf.tY'IIY 000 f~ Abo"* thf floor o! 1l1t l.rt;c-ot l.ndan caeo'V•I.OI\ 11'1 tht U11ittd Sto~tH illthra:rip of Willttf". t')'JO!fl~p..t '"tX«IIt~ed~.ft t'IJifW"iltf w1th a btu~ ll'oti!IOf'y th.sn. mlnt. Mdll-:t«rtiUy""""'dytl IO mtfl "'*' I)O!'r hour). T1w on ehfo n•rrowt5e, lllth4Ke lbl!J'' T""*'-'"' Pol.. Ai 110 kiloon..tcn potr hwr m"'J ""''..,...,,_"No w~y, I<>OJill•ll!• Thoef iOO!ach kntltl •rd wind$ 11 lltht » tlw doe:k ~i"&t l!f1$11thii\A" Sl, ~ (•~tr iir" uMd eo ~"' h;, mod.a h~otn. In thot I,.NoOt. A~ lhto ~·t thin4 you blow. be(ott' you'w t:ot • flwotee to uy "Toe.:._ I h• ..,. • r-.1;"5 Wt"rr 11.01 in K..nu1 •nytnono." yw'rt' ho-vttff18 l.htrt, dtfyitl$ •I Nt,.rl1 t..w. - ~t.arint dOwn 1 of roXS. M...Ch 100 t•ll &nd m\KI> •oo tfi'WIIII'I dl•m~t'f" w.Jit1r..s fot rh• ~ tot.M elu• th.rfl. l'lc ~ t. Yw ()J)C'f! ytNr qon. .-ncl ~ urs vtrr c.-11!'\ly, " YW,;uyt. Mf' JOins col-la~"' toj\l"'f'•· v J,...p 1l.to b r..1n IOI;An l 1hto "''fi'I()'Y b.t.nl. 1nd u rt.:lt out iiU!Vflrirrct h ta. rt .._.rt e..,, P"'od." it'l i•otot Jl5#1,.. thit t i - tnltr• inun fi!IO ~kit 6utl1lccun<)(y tt&rch ol ll•<' m~-ty knk<OMc. up blank. &J do Out $1lr.C II 00\01! 11101~1. ..1( I uy 1'0 t.nd, the tn~h1"' will f,lt ap.ut... follotJ u.ut""'· Hotwu t~ng •boul tlo~ huult o>r '"'l11111nd rnQ- """"'.. hr'd brltofcod v~ Oo:\ It ttlc l.-ndlnit ~~ out$'rdtollt rO<"o'M" ehr H~y Inn only tl\l rty ml....,ltf tArllnl thAt. of wly C-lo.::i. Ntbthr,&nd 1 ...~ hJivt tlw wnunit tl"lly only wd fourtttn ftrl ;, dilmc1~. Uld he-tried to 1.-t'ld. thl' ll'JI~bn« 01 tht rotor wuh on tl'.t tulll'lmit •nd lh~ v•lkr &or ooo lnt of rock 011'1 !he p~t fw • 1\iAdit<On Avf· ~~- (10fn$trti.ol. FIB tl!t kind (If pt~Wn w ho ""('uktn't ~ncl.vtt 00.1 ei WI .Ori'I&M, uniHJ It ..,.,_. $(.'ingdOwn 101' l.ht ilNI<Woll. &11 th!t l~lblt m,ll(hll\1!' m•dot fW.<Iif16 i ll mld.slt wlehoul • p.~ntflu1<' $oHM uq, Or '"'Ybt rd d~~ • f•he WftH of w.eunty .1bout wh.u 1 ll• licopm W~.~l4 fo. a ..t '"'"• 1 wo~t. wlthwt tvtn th.:.rlkll\8 •bout k . il~l'od· iol$ (I" ehe ttt\11 ol Mol htr Ship • 1f It wfr"' ·r~~t Ro<k.ltH!f• *'* ·Now: Tlw word &..1f'd l$0-p~Nftd 6nlo.. ltlwfl m:IU(hl'd In dw mitldlr of !hit ~1oM - t.f)'1ft3 10 br.(c MfHif .,..;1" JUf. H ot t~ Wflf rtw1M to eht M.unm~t• .-M wtlr.n he tJWnotuv~rfd tlw d<oip • bit(lokr. l•t t'IOd.kd' lufht1d .-.d Mid the INCI\1nc 6tf411tl y il'l 1•l.o<t whlltG..r.d ...~m~ t-Wo of tlw~-'· T~ wiNif t.till wl\irlina AtW rwrirc arOW!d Mt. l klt•lot la:tlw•s wo.-l.i014 1ntht vu."tf\ of •Sp.t(fA~Oublo"" (,.,.. ••I ff<\lt t<l out 3"' to ..... ,.,.m~t~il a~. TMu3ht wat .lifi(\o!t• .l.nd #.Wh .. ovr Utn'lt'd prQAr•mmotd bJ tomf<IN ""'"~' dippfd .. h!clin.: 10 c.na a fnOfl<fllt before ht j,.,n,...,. it ,..., • -..fl'tJ Jlttuutlon Wf •II \ltotd of\ rh~«"'tf'll ~~ Jh1pwu c•ll3l1t by• fitl.lt I<Ht ol "'·ind .l.fWI JoMt. h.td IO "ju.'I'Optlll' •hlp •w•1 froM th<' •wmmlt. A' •OC.OI\ n C'nd IAnd..,J, I r ,....,,),. welktd tum •w•r h um the W.lpbe(on i:~ b«k fot N..bt'L:tt •"J kt't~uns ,,.""""' Tht' thrc-.o of ""l.u.Witd tottllocr lf'l llw ftifill """d uo~tU jQI!IK ~~~ ,li(k~&II'IS•hl, pll\hot..... ol ,,.~ ton~ wu ..cutt. A momfl'll b tu, Mothtt Shop w.o1o s<I<W· A..d ;..u lo\.c. thu. tht du~ of UJ Wotn" m tlw hilthtf01t tift(lo('" ol tht Toec-m l'o>k. It fe-lt l•lt thk JI1Vff of ro6. w""td top,....OW;t"Mto nc.a!by Y6bk'lwl Rock• if .11ny of llf. sto-od u,p tOO quiddy, ~ t..lly. (;lAd tt..c.htd IMillt l'ob down JWI<.o f.,.. w ..lk~t..lkiot to m.l.. udlo (Of\1.11C1 ...-.th ·Moth« Ship. "B•••" l •m.o· OIIc-, thi~ i• tlu ..mc t""' Totfonl"'*·" "'l•IIW.Ont. o..tt." 'T"'..,u.; (t~I'Odby) l.Am~.on..- W. hold b11dtd uftly, ""' tlw ldvtt~· tuft' w0ukl ('OI'ItOt~<.~~ ehrouab tht" M'ltt fllll' 4•"V .mol lt.roe<: '1\QW_..W...... AI\J •• 1M rtd Qu.Hn. teL! Allor,lt tonk .11U t"-: NMii'QI- ('QUid 41) to H•y .. ftly irl tht w- ~ •top thr Tott':l!l Folt. n •-r nl ,.,.dipPed my l1ftlinot .M }o,unpotd - my Nikn ~· l"& ll•t b•tt ~utn«~~it.. booforc my body "'"'' into • K'if'«d c-•5tc: to l~ thf Uoflbtl~lbly powft'{<o~l rotor ~•"from blowiAS mt into 1M l.llld ol OL &ut th;. I rutlttd w.-1n' 100m' &;AI•·foro:• dtnm. Thif wu !'Hl. I dt~ fi\Y hit· llow 11110 ' " o~ov;l•or bo!t ~·t in (o'yo\1 ~ my ~~~. pl.u:'t'd lllrrt ywn r1.rlio:F by sevtr.l <&tnbot.-. who nwd< the (i ut U«llt olth·l' ~p:rt tht mf w~y- tht A~Jfic~~JJS 78 �Totem Pole Climbing History Steve Bartlett E-­mail Hi Jerry, The other route on the Totem Pole, Never Never Land, was done, according to Bjørnstad’s Desert Rock guidebook of 1988, by "the Banditos" in 1979. It is widely known as the "Bandito" Route. . The Banditos were a loose knit group of climbers from Arizona. The core of the group were Glenn Rink, Stan Mish, Jeff Bowman. They did a lot of climbing on the towers of the Navajo Nation. I believe they preferred to go by the Bandito moniker, rather than real names, partly because of the dubious legality of what they were doing. Second ascent of this route was Bill Forrest and Jim Waugh, in 1984. Bill Forrest confirmed the second ascent of the route, though not the year, to me last year. This route is the only one anyone climbs anymore. I don't believe anyone has repeated your climb since the Eiger Sanction filming. Partly because the fixed anchors (bolts etc) were all removed, but also because your route is easily seen from the road. The newer route is hidden round the back, thus giving a better chance of concealment. Modern ascents usually involve being dropped off by a getaway driver. Many climbers climb around New Years, so as to minimize the numbers of people who may be around. Fran and I hiked around the tower spring 2009, and our Navajo guide was surprised to see that someone was building a hogan right under the north side of the tower. If this becomes occupied, future ascents may be much harder to get away with. It seems that most of the locals (who all seem to be part of just one or two large extended families) who live there don't really mind about climbers climbing on Totem Pole, but the Traditional Navajos (the elders, who don't live locally, but have much influence) do, and they set policy for all who live on the Reservation. Here is an incomplete, rough list of the ascents: 79 �Totem Pole Ascents: 1. Mark Powell, Jerry Gallwas, Don Wilson, Bill Feuerer, June 13th 1957 Register comments: Sierra Club June 13, 1957 "A very windy day. Previous days have been fair and included 13 climbing hours, not including prusiking time. During this time Powell and Wilson shared leads and reached a high point at the base of the bolt (summit) pitch. Gallwas finished the pitch and at present Wilson and Feuerer are prusiking up." Mark Powell Fresno Don Wilson LA Bill Feuerer LA Jerry Gallwas SD 2. TM Herbert, Tom Condon, Dave Rearick, December 15th, 1958. Register Comments: T.M. Herbert LA Tom Condon LA Dave Rearick LA Sierra Club R.C.S. "It took us 3 1/2 days due partly to short daylight. We placed a couple more bolts.* There was evidence of a recent attempt which reached the first cave—we salvaged their pitons.** Today is a beautiful calm day. We are very impressed by the climb and by the fine job done by the first party." * According to Kor, one of the new bolts was placed, by Dave Rearick, at the top crux of the fourth lead, just where Powell traversed right to the tiny belay ledge, using tension from a hand-­placed piton behind a small block. Rearick does not remember. ** This attempt was probably by Harvey Carter, who tried the tower twice but never reached the summit. 80 �3. Layton Kor, John Auld, Rick Horn, November 22nd, 1961. Register Comments: Layton Kor Colorado John Auld Colorado (Nov 22, 61) "1 1/2 days, no new bolts, tremendous job on First Ascent. My congrats to Kor.* Beautiful day—a little chilly, no sign of injuns so far" *the whole climb was led by Kor. Yet he declined to write in the register;; Auld wrote the first entry, Horn wrote on a separate page: 3rd ascent M.E. Horn, Jr. Jackson Wyoming. "I’m stickin’ to granite!" 4. Roger Dalke, Tom Ruwitch (date/year unknown) Register Comments: 4th ascent Roger Dalke, Tom Ruwitch "Nine hours time. Beautiful day. Our respects to the 1st ascent party. Very spectacular climb." 81 �5. Ken Wyrick, Eric Bjørnstad 1975 Register Comments: 5th ascent Ken Wyrick, Eric Bjørnstad with the filming of the “Eiger Sanction” Eastwood movie Bjørnstad and Wyrick were obligated to clean all the fixed gear from the route. Even the summit anchors, summit register and cairn. The fifth ascent was the last ascent of the original route. After this, the register was in the possession of Eric Bjørnstad, in Moab, for a number of years. In 1979, the tower was climbed on the east side, up cracks on the opposite side of the tower to the first ascent line. Subsequent ascents have all been on the east side route. Information on later ascents is incomplete, in part because all these ascents have been covert. 6. Bandito Route Glen Rink, Stan Mish, Jeff Bowman 1979 7. Bill Forrest, Jim Waugh 8. Gordon Banks et. al. 9. Tim Toula, Tim Coats Spring 1985 10. Rob Slater, Jim Bodenhamer May 1985 82 �11. Kyle Copeland, Alison Sheets, Charlie Fowler Dec 28th, 1985 12. Tom Cosgriff Jan 2nd, 1986 13. Bill Roberts, Paul Hauser Dec 31st, 1986 14. Chip Wilson, Jerry Rock Jan 1st, 1987 15. Jim Olson, Brad White, Jackson WY Sept 29, 1987 16. Galen Howell, Sonia Paspal Both climbers were National Park climbing rangers. They were hired by Navajo Nation to clean bolts and other paraphernalia from the Never Never Land climb. They climbed on the tower twice, in 1993 and 1994. In 1993, they did not summit, out of respect for the Navajo nation ban. In 1994, they did summit. Two other ascents I have heard of, but with no dates: 17. Jim Bridwell, John Middendorf 18. Todd Gordon and Dave Evans. 83 �Spider Rock Introduction & Reference The article, They Risk Their Lives for Fun by Hal Burton, appeared in the February 25, 1956 issue of The Saturday Evening Post. It was inspired by and included a description of the attempt on the Northwest Face of Half Dome in 1955 in which Don and Jerry were participants. Don included a copy with his letter of request to climb Spider Rock as an indication of our qualifications. Superintendent John Aubuchon presented the letter and article to the Navajo Tribal Council and to our delight, our request was approved. 84 �34 They Risk Their Lives for Fun These danger-loving climbers seldom conquer lofty mountains, just "impossible" cliffs in their own neighborhoods. For e>..'tra thrills, they test their ropes by leaping into space. By HAL BURTON ong the more recondite method¥ of spending a .summer weekend in Yo semite Na1ional Park, California, ptr· haps the ul6mate was achieved last june by X foul' young men who wlllingly sat out Lhe night on a ledge eighteen inches wide, SOOO feet abo,•e the crackling campfires, the dance music and the other cj,•ilized amenities to be enjoyed with minimum effort on 1he grassy floor or Yosemite Valley. ~io~ eomronable accommodations arc plentiful in the park, which is geared to handle l ,000,000 tourists a year, but no four visitors could hnve b«n as blissJuJly comentc:d, with lnt obvious reason. The young men in qut3tion sat with their backs pre"""" a,llainSl a wall or granite and dangled cheir fee t in space, slnce there was not enough room to lie down. As a sensible prt· caution, thty were anchored to the northwest race of H alf Dome by a nylon rope seven sixteenths of an inch in thickness: A sitting man 1naydoz.e, even if poised halfway between heaven and ca.rch; and to doze unprotected on so airy a perch could lead to resulu not pleas· ant to contemplate. Had anyone spread the won!, no doubt a good many of the l J ,000 vacationen c.rowdlng the park would have tritd, the next morning, to pick out four tiny figurtt cra"•ling up a cliff that experu had dismWe<l u totally impos.i· ble. The back of Hair Dome can be sur· mounted, between waist·high cables on a lad· derway of wcoden cleats, by any uiuri.ot free from vertigo tnd willing lo cssny a rock slope or moderate steepness. The northWCSL face is some<hing else again. Sheared and polished by erosion, it soars 2000 feet above n mass of tum· bled boulders, tilted ledges, and tree• clinging to crevices in the rock.. The boulder slope rises another SOOO feet. llestor RobiJUOn and Rich· ard ~{. Leonard, who pioneered rope climbing on the Yosemite cliffs in 19:11 , dism~ the nonhwat face long ago as uso awful it mig'hl as well be: forgotten." .Millions of ca.n1al vis· i1on, endowed with I~ precise knowledge, bave looked •pward from the valley floor and arrived at th< same conclwion. 85 �Alth<M.I&h he if over fifty yur1 old, bulinu&man fr'ricx Wiamc'r t"uxls uiln acape from the pre-.uu ai the world" in rock cllmbine. Here.J Wi.essoer NOtnds the fonnidable Indian Face, in Ne.w York'• Adirondack Mountaint. Thc.re are, however, stubborn people in this world who refuse to admh that anything i.s impossible, among them a few thOU$8.nd Americans who pursue the delicate t1.nd exacting oport of rock climbing. The figure i• neecosarily flexible, since advancing yean and increasing rock prudence cause a certain n\ambcr climbers to retire annually to less strenuous purtui~. There :llways are ~pltH~emcmtt, who carry on tbe tradition that a cliff iJ to be esteemed mote highly than a mountain JUmmit. Among this group, the northwest face o( Half Dome iJ regarded as one of the mootta.otalizing climbing problemJ in the United Stat.., demanding a respeetful approach and a painstaking reconnaissance. Rock climbing, a Brit· ish authority on the subject once observed, "is a gnmc played slowly, which goes not to the owift, but to che skill[uJ and levelheaded." The men on Half Dome, who had already scram~ bled up the boulder slopes now were crawling up the sbeer cliffs of lhe northwest face at the rate ot only 200 vcr1ical feet per day, or aboul one seventh the hei.sbt of the Empire State Building. To stOrm the c1ilf in one .ublime burst o( •peed would have been suicidal* for the rock was far 100 dificuiL A more tcnsible conclusion was reached-to tcareh ror a poss-ible way to the top and to make the assault later, after careful planning. At the end of two and one half day$, Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, j erry Oalwas and Don Wi.lson had managed to rise exactly +60 (0onllouc:d"" Pap 99) reel through a or Oon Oauneh (rich<) bda}t Pel< Sebocning as he dambtrs up Crooked T~tt, an inhoopiOtblc linle peak on the tide ,. Cllhcdtal Mountain, in •••«m IV~. 86 �They Risk Their I .i vP~ <"''"''""' ,_. ""'"l , for Fun 1nar.e o r ctaeb aod along twu !ct.lges, c:.)ch ()( which provided somc:v.•hat ruditnerltaty lodgi1'8 ro r the oight. Whc:rc hotdt were Jeartt ror hands or fcc:t, they hammett."<! i.n thhl pqps or steel, caUed pitons-pro1\0tlf'IOCd. 'cpee-tons"-lO which the d imbiJlg rope could be auadk'd torsarcty. r-·mm lifllC to tin)('", to the annoyance of ~I)'<InC, the cnec:k$ nn out and only a $tnGOth wall bolgJ:d ab<we. Roc.:k diml~rJ h;we ll way of dc;a.Jing with $Ucl1 J>robk.'tn:J. When )JitoN are ~less. thc•-e is llw::tyl the C:X!><tnsWn boh. c.:quil>iJt:d with a ring on ila uutcr end .unc:- ~ tdtt llt'ld lope at'IO ...,.,~lot, _$c) a o01 piU:C.,. _..Ntwn (\wnsta. rtOm bdc) a~Mt •IWI'C'II kllllia tt:.co. and a collar of I<'<ICI on the itlJk'1" end. Six times, standing in slings ot rope, Robbins used a ham mer and dc·iU to bo~ in1o the cUR', and then hmnmc:n..-d in bola. l 'hC' lead ooll;.r, t".)( l~md i r'S Ia$ the bolt \ ....U tighlencd. tc~ it'idf llt)lidly tc) the ruck. 111e rnult WitS a Virtual l~ddcr ol steel Ut> wnlll «> ahcer 3r)(j hokllcss th\1~ rnQsc rnouncaincl:'n woukl h:.ve gi~n "'''in dl$gusc. TI1e S.Ul)I>IY of rood, the W<'ltt.r in the can• ceens arld the time avaiJablc :dl g:a'-e wt simultaneou:sl~· the 1hitd l'!'l(m'lin,g, but the party hlld found what it sought: A route that \\'ould ••go," as r'lt'arly as a pr.te,ticcd ~~-e ooukl teiJ. A fine tracery of crad:s kd up 10 •he •op. 1be climben turned back. Tiri.s ipri.ng, when the snows ha\'C: mc:hod from the ' 'alley Boor and the nights arc wann enough so that a man c;&n alc:ep on a cliO', Robbins intends to lead the lint complete climb ol the northwe~t face. At beat, there will be six b ivouaa-now ~nd then wich space cno~,rgh to tit down, but mo~ often swndi.ng trpright in rope slings.. ~ te· \V<trd, if )"OU wiJh «>call it tllat, will be: the oonqlieU or ~~ impossible. So.nethir.,g so close: to sheer misery, with such an dcmem ot calculated risk, is: scarcely lht: a\'\".r<lie man'* dish o( tea. But roc.k cUmbers ate a pank:ularly tenaclwJ brcod, who get thetnsel"CII intQ the most hair-raising ptedicaments in O«<er to get OUt of them triumphantly. The '(otemitc cliffs-smooth, spectacular and bandy tO the h.igllwaya- have inspired aon'le prodi· gioos climbing, ba!e<l o n a lavish ute (I( anifiei.al aids. PuriJtS, who reJer •o the Yosemite er~n :tJ "rock tJ18inetrS," aomewlw.t p:uronb:ingly talk o r " •necha· iaoloo:-•o:dP M• yll<"-boot W I!U:t It dl.t vq. Mary AM :\.be~ ~a ......u.l..,..... I"'P" bnllr le V~h~e l'lltk. Man OS~ lacl4l a ufet)' (M, nixed climbing,'' oonduc.tcd up a ladcl("tway of Stetl. Whichever faction ~ the true gospel, both agree that YO!Iem.ite excru an ()'!Jerpowc:ring attraction for rock cli.mbcn. l'hi• is best (Oonlinued on Pa~ 101) 87 �fdlnaary u. 101M (C.:.t1-.ci l'tola htt tt) cktnOnUra~ owr the ~{cmorial Day "'t!Ckend, when hundmdt tJ CUIIoml.ans show up with ropet and tlolCk.acb lor the annu.al roek...:UmbCnr outlnc ot the Sttrra Qub, u ors:aniutlon of a.ppto~tirnatcly 10,000 mouotai.necrt. It il an lnoorrcxlt . .•mpcion chat mote rode dirftbc:n arc. ~ ~ wich DO ~ rncaM ol-..ppon.. ()(the ...., •ho RICIOMCiiwral Hal' ~ R.obbiM ""JrJ • banlcr, Hard.l.a& &D ~. \\'"dloa &tid C.twa. J11di.tlte nudel'la.. AtrlotW wckn· taty apona, the best countttpart 1.. ai'I)Uii"' pme ol ch~ which calk tor intente cerebration and an al.n'ICI&t psydllc knowkdJe ofwhat lla ahead. Th(R is one JUhltanl•ll dilftl'f'DCe, A w~ InO\'t on l.he che. boan:l 1.s •ldom mete dwll bumiti.lonc: a riiOYC 011 • c:liA' may bt fatal. Thepolntcl~waJ~ more cl<uly -..~a~ wbcoj.tA.mold.,AAt ooNdloo&ftd Frica wroec - .. .._. ..... L i - dio.llal lilt !at """"'· • kolk bWc c/ ..... IOOOicet hlcb. Kictioc OUl ftorD die dif!'M1dway bccW'tea Y.-:m. ltt Pol.nt and Upper Yoetmhe FaUL (Sec: Wa Cl.lw•w nm bcPosll.u :PI.A•, by fritz/\. U~nn, The: Saturday EvePolt,June 18., 19+7.)Thitsmootha_fod Kemill$)y unana.inable ~had m.. at· nine tem.peed devm limes prcviously. Al•er five doyo, 1he dlmbm flftaJJy ........ 10 ' - .... - · r._. poiniGI!Ihrvallcy n~~a. Two olct.c. ctacmdod _, aoocch tOO ltct ~ """"d.. tOCk lhe l.oo< Arrow ........... INII, &nd thc:o up 10 !.be d-. main &Ji-. mcb ol the: rope, ~U. ic JtO the top.. Alt<1' 1ht rope was ·made fut. ln the \he elm~~ pc:r(ormcr tta1Jin& • 11\MI)Cr ·~Ide for li(;e," Lipp.nann CI"'MCd OYtt the or vo&d and jo.lncd his cornpanlotlt a10p the Anow. Four yean later. in juDe, 19$0, Alan Sial< aod john Salalht compci<JII """' Sltdt callo ...., ....., "" pj""" """""" ro... ..,.a . . , m do>• 00 . . . · - ..... wall o(Smtlod Rod<. Thlt lllCidom fli"!fcc:\ UIC'd t,tp 165 pi'a:;lot aac! !Me orpiMioft bol~ and "'I'm .ol. ftOC qgiK -.arc: wf\y I tlid ic:• Sttc:k llOid l'l'ltt «andy. l.n umvct tlmetpcnt aod I"(JJJII.IIICh.ieYcd, Stndnd Ro<l wu notabk, but Hatr Dome ttiU hokb the n:cord Cor ~ number ol ovcrnt2u guu~ acc.oromoda~«<. "The \101.\une of vcs1ical trafBt In YOlein• he Pa:rt forced lbe Natioml Park SeMoe to e~ta.~ a tUC:Ut cram d 1CI'I ,...,.,.. an d whom are tr&iDcd io me n'IQil aQIIIIPli· ..... _ dimbc:n n,rdy cauR . . =am trOUblt... Afll R. :0:. Md.oryre. lldmirliwari'vc _. liuaat to chc ~ tuperifttcodcnt. '"\\'ba.t ~'"Tbeeapa:.....S ci~ Uf. hcad.che is the b$t childt'O\ and 1M people 'l'it\9 decide to ta)::e a thew' CUt off chc traiJs. They're the 00(1 wbo always get themselves stuck on a cliff'-ean't CO down; can't go up-atjustaboutd atk. lt'J lucky for ut that thlavalley i.saosmall. Anyone who hollen for hdp, onoe people have gone to bed, can be heard for six milct around.~ h is pcable 10 OYerdo a good thi~, bcM<eYa", u one reteue cscablishod lastJune. Mich.ad Simon.lixte<n_. was hik· ii1C a~ lhc: 1<>p cl the cliffs with a group cl fri<tl<b when he dccickd-wbat ebe?to take a $hort cut to the valley. He wound up in a cluster ul trca ~md sheer kdgCJ known as "the Jungle,'' in tl\.e middle o( the Royal Archei, one of the most ditrlCUh cliffs in the park. either up or <!own. Simon lJ.at>.e 1010&O.....,.m for help .., ~ and p<O«<dcd ., loudly that the ~ _.. unable 10 bteak in on hb mono&ogue to lee bim know that cucue wu a\ hand. The cacophony lasted until1nidni&ht, ,.,.hen he fell into an cxhausttd ateep on a broad and safe ledge'~ but h started again in the morning. A re~ cue team llcadcd by ra~r john Henne· berga', meanwhile, was oond~ a moll delicate dimb "' the Ard>es. "The ,.....,. could bc:ar S.i.mc:w\, bu1 they couldn~c Mar uch olhe:r--a difficult Jituatioo wbc:n a climb is .,..,. .-duc:t<d in p i t c h with occasional aid from a Ela$bJigbt. n He was in the midst o( his last and b;ggm 'Helpl'''said Hennclxrtge.r, uwhen 1 finally ateppod out from behind a tl'(e and tapped him on &he shoulder. We got hlln up to the 1<>p cl the Atchcl and walked bim down _... f091 trail, but I'U bet that boy had a IOI"e du'oat for a monlh afcer."" T,..., <><her reacue expeditions last y<ar "'O'C less humorouo. On April.;ghth, Ann Pottinger1 nineteen, a atudmt at Stanford University, tel out with two boys to climb the Lower Ctuhcdral Spire. A snowstonn threatened and 1h c tangen a t park headquarters had wan1td the party-whit.h n:gisten:d in advance tor the climb, u n> quited by pork resuJationo-to lutl'l back if the weather .,....,...J. At tO~ that "' the dimben . . . - into •• hc::adquarttn aca;i.n and &aid, "I'm af~ AM it ia lt'C<Ible. We had to lcav<: her at the fooc ol the Spire and come down fol help." By midnl$ht, in a blinding anow· ttorm. a racue team rcac:hccl the girl. She wu dead from <Xf'Cll'=- probably be· ca""' her clothing COt •t eel ol COtton jeans, a COttOn shin and a lipt poplin jadceL At the end ol May, the n:oc:uc crew C.oa:d Hckne \'Ofl R)'CttetItt , _ l!eWT'e vonri, a sracJuate t~I>Cknl at the UniYCI' tity ol Calil'omia, w&J lcadiJ18 a climb on the Royal Arches. This wall, risiJ18 direelly ,.,t, abo,·c lhe Ahwahnee Hotc1 1 ls one VUI slab ol rock inelincd at ~nty to eighty dccrca. ..;,h few placa wh<re a climber can hold on. ln IUeh a lituadon, a.n u:pett llau.,.. bit feet and hands on the rock and mova ahead to the IM!ara<eolld led~. This is known as friction dimbins. "The prcooure ol rubber ooles and bare palms on the rock iasufficit·:ru to prevent a slip-in most cases. Bu1 Miss von Ryckervoncl fell ninety feeL She wu held by the t«llnd man on the rope, who had braced hlmoclt on one ol the available ou~eropplnp. It took SUJ>CI"" rew viaq rangerJohn Mahoney and the reocue Ctt\<' ol me m<n mcot ol the night lO Teach her. ~ 1 have never tten such injuries," aid part naNralitt Clenn Calliton, a member rac:ue erew. '"rhcte wu a hole in or the bock ol her head, and there wcte to many bones fractured that I'm ourprioed ahc didn' t die right there oo the cliff.*' The rangen d~ed • meah·and·alu· minum rc:oc:ue litttl' up 10 the IOCne ollhc 10 the rocb IICddmt. lied while they adminittmd fine aid, and in two and a baiC hours btot.tcht Miss Ryckavond down to the valley. Rcxues, though dramatic, intrigue the Yooemite ran~rs las than the case of the Two MissiJ18 Men. On July GO, 19.54, WaJ.. ter Cordon, 1 ltudcnt at the Univeroiry•ol the the........ ... c.lifortka, bou&ht atcab tor an outdoor pk:nie In ~ olthe camNtou.ndt. tcld' his COntpanionl, .. l'U be-: back bc:(on: dinner:• and K t out on a hike rrom whleh he: oever ~tvn~ed. The rault wat on< or the mot-t conccntrac«i aeatehet che pat'k. has known. 'Thf! llO< t d a y, b!oodhO\u\dt \0/C.tc: put on CQl'd()n'• u-ail. They led th.c ra.nsen up the ~th to ClAcit:r Point which ove-rlooks lhe valley, and down the f'our Mik: trail to the highway. "~'here the. '"""t •~ndy vanll:bed. 1\$ many as thirty ,..,.en bbdt· aKd 1hc:dilf-,.earehin t.lorGordoa'a body. and b- daY$ a Mlkopttt Aew up and down the valley \Vhile sponc:n acarect ch~ fk:ld aiUKS. The sc:arc.h wu hopclat; COr-· dOTI ia nill mbting. 11~ m<mt.h.t lacel', on October 9, 195+, •nothc:r UniYcnhy of Calirornla s tudent wu wa.lki..tl« alone a footpath ncar the Ahwahnee Hoed with hi• wlf~t.t father-in· law a.nd moti':M:f'-in· lllw. '""ni•c &oob incu. ftti• up there.•• aakl OrvM" YOl'll t....N. thirty. rootioninc co the upptt pan ot the lloyaJ Arches cliff. '' I 'll tee you a little &aett. •• He walked all' IntO the u.nderbc'wh f.od ~liYiQon- \Vi\hin thlnec:n hours the bloodhound• picked up hb ~l At the ba5c of the Royal Atchu c:Hmb, and tried rn.nti,. coJiy to .cramb1e up the roclc. Reeeuc: teams roped up and ~red the: whoLe cliff, whh nesa • l~ results. A hellcoJ)tcr fk:w .along· atde the An:hct. R.ancen .u.te.hed ror two toUd "''ttb. kec:pins a.n eye- pecled for a CC)tlo(!entradon. ol earrioe\ bircb that micht pinpoint \he location o( • body. Oae dlmbing pany d-red a bear, which dcpartul with a startled a.nor1, but nobody round von Lil-. The FBI , eallt'd in becautc: Yoectnite i.a Federal prQpc:rty, chc:d<cd C:Yery poaible lead without rnu.lt. 1n quiet hourt, which are Infrequent, the nmaett ate apt to •pe:eula tc l'tbout Cordon l.nd von La.u. Perhape;, they lhink, the bodks l~ aomcwhe.re on the YC*:I'I'lite dlff... wedged behlnd a roek which nobody wW paw. for 100 )"UI"t. Such a time la.-c b no1. out ollhequcnion. In September ol 1801: Ma.rjoric Fa..rquhar, Jvk:l £icbhorn and IUc::ha:rd l-eonard, ol the S'erra Club, made lhe 6nt anc:mpt tO cllm.b \'/ashingt.on Column ... Way up thuc on the dill'...... .-ys Leon11rd, ,.W'C (ound pan O( A hUn'IJU) skull. Our peN \\'at: that h d1uec:!l (t'Qfl'l prehi,.. tode times. But when we took it to lhe DcPI'-rlmc.nt of Anthropolofy at the UniW:r'• thy of California . they akl th~ skull had been then: about a hundred )'Cu.-just ab<ML1 the. time the fin.t fur trapp«S wtte cc:paorinc dle High $ttra. I have often ~ who the f'O!" (dlow ~ who ao.t his tooting and dioct, .SI alonoe. up thue above Yc»emite Valky."• A few yu.rs later a c:lhnbc:r found so~ human bones in a lict&e 88 �101 Ju-cam tumbling dO\''" the cUffs oppotit.e WathJngton Colwnn. In the ~ame pool of wa ln- were an initialed wateh and an old hat imprlnted with the name a store ln PhoenilC, Ari:tona. Whh the h<"fp ol the: fBI, 1M owner was ewiblished. Parle head- or quartttS caU((f his mother i.D Pboeoi.'lt 10 extt:nd eondo\o)C(;$. ~~"l'hat•s strange," she said. " He j ll5t krt Cor schooL Stu he did ('()fne back from Vo.semile Jast )'dttWithout hat." The bones apparently \rttt: th09t of a m.'\n who h ad \':tnishcd twenty )'eJU1 earlier. l:t" The sport or rock d:mblng. al~y flowishi.ng tn the East. w<IJ i:ntroduccd to C.liComia in 19SI by Robcn L. M . Un· derbi.ll, a profa.aor ;u H arvard Uni~nity and a mounrajnecr of distinction. The idea o( eying on a rope to g () up difficult cliff• had not hereto/ore oc:curml co d)C menloben or lhe Sierra Ctub, but once it caught on, the ~ \\'8$ immediate. ''The di· ttt«m were horriftcd \'!fhen \\'C propoeed Lh.at the club tst3b1l$h a roc:k.-dimbing .section.?' r«alls Bcstor Robint(>n, now tt:tired 3t <' l'()(k c;limbu, who ptaeliees law in Oa.k~nd. Catifc>rnia. "They saki we'd be tu«l imo bankl"\lptey ~n CMt ol an acci· From the experiments of the dub, it may be ~ta tdy said, tbe United Sta,tes Arm.y <k\"CCoped much of iu climbing equipment and a coherent doctrine (or teaching greeu :!IOid.ierJ how to get up a cliff. if need be. Thjs d ata W<l$ fim i.snparu:d lO the: JOlb Mountain Division, " ·hicb fought twa. lwuly in Italy during Wo<ld War 11. Berare the end or the war, tOJne 2.'S,OOO Other ddierJ had ~ a ucht how to climb in ...a. ....,..,ed places . . Uncoln, New lbmpshire; Nauual Bridge , V itginia, """ ~fouth of Seneca.. \ Vest 'Virginia. The old doctrioes nill a~ carried on in the- can)'001 or C~>cy~poe Ctttl<, qu!Sid< Colorado Sj>riogs, Cok>rndo. "i>en: !he Anny maintains a mountain-tr.Lining areol_. One great cootribution wu the 11)'km rope for climbins· l:ntil just bcfor<- W ,\·ar, no climber "'OUid consider risking his life on ~nyth.irlg bt.n a t OO..focu h~ o( ~b.nila ropt. :"~·b! The Attny developed few new cli:mben ol' the first rank, but a good many }'oungsten with . prior mountain experience rope, which had j ust c;oO)(: oo the mar;kec, was regarded with suspicion by F..attem himself. c!U..b=, oot the Sierra Club decided to try it out. 111e method of testing was somewhat dent, and added tha t !.he c;h.:atter didn't make any provi.,;on for h . But tix months later we had a nxk·dimbiO& sec.ci.on."' Robinson and friends rocuped jo)>fl.llly unusual. R obinson, Leonard and David R.. Browe r. now the club'$ secretary. found thernx.lves a suitable rode. about thirty feet high, in a Berkeley park. One m.'lt.l O'lff the California mountaiN, Jtudied pon~ derous German texts i:-_xplainiog .fl.ti6i'led ways ol holding onto a rock or or wriggling up a crack, ordered pitoru (rom a .spord,.. goods shop in Munich, and prooe«led to set u p a t1-aining area on Cr~t Rock, a cliff in one of the Berkdey parks. Thil led to tof\'IC: oompliattiQns. A lady \¥hose home woukl sit down. bracing himself solidly, and pat!$ the rope around his body for a be- lay dirtcdy bei()W the Met ealk'CI the park dq>3nment to ta)·, " I don' t want any bod· ics f:lUing in my back yard !.. None ever dKI, but ooc dimlxt ~Obk 1 modmtt tuMble, im'Olvi.~ Abr.\tion3 and <:Otltw.ions.. Since the aocident oocurrtd on city propeny, R.obi.IUOn had to report h to the poli¢e. The ttaining dimbs gn:w more and more claborau: until the Sierra Club felt compelled tO ~~ up a S)'Stem ol elauificalion, b:t$ed on F...uropcan standards. Cl.a.ss t climbs were simple h ikes; ClaBl 11 ~re i'<>t~ lt"'illbla; CI!SI Ill f«<Uir<d the OC- Uti.on..'ll u:se of a rope: Class IV c:alkd for ropa Md aJ'eful ~ppott ft()lTI abow; Class V requ ired 1>itonJ, and Cla9s VI-as on Hall Dome- c!<:m3n.d«l pit(M)S Ol' bolts f'or direct aid. ~ h1.1ndrecb of California. climb& have 00\V bcc:n :roetit\llously <:laui· 6td and bound into a g uide_book. lay- toeaning a poshion from which he could stop the fall of anolher ciU:nber. 'D\e tcoond m:an wouki fte into me rope and j ump off ·the edge or the rock:'" he fdl, che rope was aUowed. co $lide, and then gradually tightened until the te<»nd man camoe to a .stop not far above level ground. Alter twe11ty ~c:~r che Manila rope brooke~ with tome di.soomfort to che teeond m:an. The nylon rope, however. was still going ~trong after «Kl practice falls. The test Ct'C'W grew so prolictc:nt that at the end of !the experiment the secot~d man eould leap eight~ feet into space bd~re he was hah<d in his ftigh~ and then low<red slowly to earth. ,.,e nylon rope was adopted as $tandard 'by th<: Quartermaster Corps, i.n. 11'llioh both Robinaoo ;w~ IMuMil ~ :u offioett. The practice tall, apectacu1ar to watch, still popped the eyes of new recn.a.its. the lut tUne l visited the Mountain and Cold Weather Command at Camp Cal'$0n. Co'orado ,Spri:ngs. The .diding1 or dynamic, belay has now virtually supplanted the method originated by the Swiss, wh.ieb wu to hook th-e rope firmly around a projection of rock. Too ot:"ten, the rope broke. ~:merged from th~ lOth Moun!ain Division as maturoe and keen mountaineers. The most impressive veteran is a climber in his early thirties, named Fred Bedey, who has led more than <100 first ascents of cliffs and rock spires in the Pacific Northwest. By virtue of getting there fim, Bedc:y has been able to name a number of peaks hitherto identified oitly by altitude. Since thowancb were already christened, be had to use in· genuity. One rang~ in th~ nonhero~­ cade Mowllains, named by Bedc:y, reads like the wine list of .a de luxe hotel. Chianti, Pernod, Burgundy, Sauttme aod Chablis are among the titles to captivate a thirsty climber, !though Beckey i:s no winebibber A mao of great physical strength, Becltey decided last vear to Climb the west tower of Mt. Goode, ' a spire 8700 feet high, rising 3600 fttr from i!J brule nt~r the head of Lake Chelan. With Don Claunch, another Seattle climber, he departed from Seatde at one P .w. of a Saturday, arriving by car at the foot of Cascade p.,. at five P-". The twO climbers then wal.ko:i up over the pass, down the other side, and in to the base of the peak, a distance of sixteen miles, aniv· ingat 11 :,SO P.M. TbeysleptuntilsevcmA.M., Sunday, m ade the first ascent of the west toWer, climbed. back over !he p&'! to th~ir car1 and reached Seattle at two A.Jot. on Monday. Beckey then went [0 work in the advertmcg department of the Seattle Post.Jntelligencer at e:i3ht A.w. On a later week~ end, bored with the walk over the pass. be loaded a catamaran on a trailer, doove tO the foot of Lake Chelan, and blithely sailed up to Stehekin, the scatting poi.nt of his climb. The weekend finished, he sailed down the lake again to rest himself, Bcd<ey's recoro of first asceolS is now being chal· lenged by Pete Schoening, another Seattle climber, who distinguished himself in an attempt on K2, in the Himalayas, a few yelU$ back. Gunbers in t he Paci6c Nor thwtM are a tilde los !ICientiftc than those in tbe Sierra Nevada. The infonnal approach was epitomiud in 19o..9 by Lionel Chute, who &ed the f"" climb of the Noeth Peruc of M L I ndex- elevation 5tOO rect-on tbe inter· csting theory th<it a cash reward was ip.volvcd. The rumor bad long pea'l!istcd lhat the Great Northern RaiJway. whose tW1nd under the mountain is one of the t.ongae: in the CXNntry, was prepared to pay from $1000 to$.'i000 for the 6Nt climber to~ the copol' the Nonh Pea):. Pmumably, thu would be profi.able advettising. Chu~e, applying for 1he reward, fOI.llld the railroad affable. but not D'l'e03-"red to dio in to the till. Now in hi$ fifties, be hal a nke letter from the C-t NO<them a,Od !he oatisfa.:tion or having completed one or the most diffieuh climbo of lUa era. ln the Northwest-a COWllry of limitless rom:tJ, h • glaciers and d02ens of un· climbed peaka-d><n: are •tiD plen1y of oonq1.1esl$ for those who have nel"''e and skill. The. best iiiU$tradon was provided1 .eve:ral )'dlt1 ago, by a Seattle <:hemin named David Hanah. In 1952. while climbing Mt. Yerupaja, one oC the highest in Peru, Harrah"• feet '-'"ere ft'Oa'tbittcn. He IO$t m OSt of hi$ tQet-.a disaster. it woo1d 110ent, to a rock dim.ber, who mUJt depend so thoroughly on ddieate ~auce. Not lorcg after, he Jed a climb up lhe 5000-foot nonh· west face of Mt. Johann.dberg, in the C. ~es. spending on< night on the cliff. Last surruncr I walked f'rom the end of !he road into Ca.!cade Pass and looked ac:ross the vaJJey at Johannisberg. The "easY' route leads up :an almost vertical guUey ol snow, with no sound plaoc: for a belay. Harrah's route zi.gz;ag:g«< up a but• trea to the kft, high i:nto the clouds, so sheer that 1 had to crane my neck.. I have rock.-climbed in roy t~ but lhis eli« was too ricl:l for my blood. Not too rleh (or a man "'i th abundant will power. ho"'~'tt. The 1ena<i1y di>played by H....-ah i$ to be foul'ld, to a greater or less degree, in Cvc:ry rock climber. Perhaps thisC?tpJainJ why a climbing club in Iowa wiU spend itswcdc· tndt on fitly-foot cliffs aJ.ong the Missis!ippi River or why &OmC thowandt of erapnen in the ~ will ~rt.. happily on rock faces ranging in height from 100 to 800 vmical f«t. 89 �The moot notable and mcot popuatcd area is a wall ol cli.fft in the Shawangunk :Mountai~ about 100 mila north o( New Yoolt Chy, on the,...., side of the Hucbon River. H(:rt the New York U\apter of the /lppolod>W. Mountain Club baa~ fifty teparatc routc:t Nine a maximum d !1100 feet, but emboclyinc the ""'" hair· rabinc dilemmu 10 be moountcnld in the Rock;a. the Sitna Nevada and the Dolomites o( Italy. If ft&Uiatlool did -forbid it, New York mountalntt:ts would do their climbing an the Paldada, which rite m&· the Hucbon in New jcstically j"" jmq. Too many loOO< rocb, ~<!own co IUOIIcrl ~ the rivenidc, caused the authoricitt ot Paliada lnW"Statc hrk to dooe the ..... 10 rock climben yeats ""'" The Shawancunk climbo ,...,.. d<Ydopcd pra;dent c1 • by Fritz H. w~r. chanicaJ ccmpany in SlOWe, Vermont. A ,_ abort and baldlnc man In his etrly fifties, \Vtc.ncr wu-untii he: bqan to dow hit peoe·- the best rock climber thb country ever hN known. N a young man ln Ccr· many, he led-without pitons-aomcofthe claasic rock dimbt In the Alpo. Reck climbing in Europe and England, aa diatinct rrom the ucent o(great mow·and·ice mountains_. began in the J 890'•~ but the IJ)()tl oCtcaiJog clilft dkl not become alcience until 1910, when the piton wna invented by an Austrian climber named HaoulCa Flcchtl. IU a l'OO"C man in DJUden.J Wiepner abtorbcd the fine point! of the aport, and brouchc co America in 19SO ~m entirely new technique, involving delicate a.nd rhythmical move· ment on cliffs with no visible hoJds (or the hand~ and feet. A man who believes in "clean., c:Hmblng as a greattr test than the Javbh UIC ol pitont, he made the fint ucent of Devi.l't Tower, in Wyom.inc, with only one pilon, where later cl.imber1 \dCd them by the dor.c:n. He alto climbocl .,,118().(oot Mt. Wacklingwn, in Brithh Colurnb'-., which bad bccn-<utcmpttd fourteen timco beinc. previoutly. w~ it ani<:Waoe climber. we,..... an "Rock climbing," he fcda, "is the ll)()lt ..wty;nc and Wcinatinc sport io the world. The lancbc:Ape of mountains, the arc:bHeetun d mount.aint, is tometb.i.ng \00 few d us koow. It ita sport and 001. • cornpcU. tioo-matchinc younclf api"" JC>at«hinc much bi&:c« than any human bcinc, apina nature. his a waydmjoyingwbat ooe's ~.,. body can do, much as our ancc:s1011 who livul in U'ttS must ba\'C' en_P.."C'd the euy , _ . , , alawtnslo& from IUnb «> limb. You J«" a-...y fnxn cvc:ryth.iog mccbanical, and it makes you fed like a kine. pacl>cd oo alitde spot up in the sty. You a.a.e OY<rOOGlO pft)1ic:al as wdl as mental difficulties. •.,.-o be a good rock climber, )'OU ha,:.: to put ~"tt)'1hiog iotO it-tO figure out )"'OW" D:IOYCt as )'OU would in~ cxoept that oo • diJf you .... playinc with .... biggat q......., bisbcp, rooks and pawns oo lh< planet. £,-en on the: smallest cliff, there is """""'inc IOphisticaoed about the delicate mow:ments impoecd on a climber. Tbc mechanical stulf- the '"'""' and bel.,_ you can enjoy Cor a wbUe, but in tbe long run you gtt )'OW' values from your c:IQee.. nesa to nat~, the rcaliza.tion how small v.re humaDI ate (OI'J'Ipartd to cbe big mountains. l tis aomclhlng )'OU can c:njoy with the eye, thc..bra.in and the whole body. And it i1 an cteape from che pressute~ or the world. When thole gn:at walla of rock in:b out abo\'e )'0\1, it ls like tinirls i.n the qui<-t and calm or a Gothic cathedral. ''The man who leads a rode clitnb rouse rcoognize that there is danger involvai, and be mutt keep it in mind, but if he hat the ta.lent, he ca.n win through. He needs judgment at wc:U-the ability to know whac one ougbt to be able to do in a difficult opol. A good man dimbt up and down ouch a spot a few timet, aJwayta litt1e bit higher, unlll be 1<.-. bow he can salcly ce< through it. Many men, not SU'OO( or patient Cl:'KJ~Uih, try to ruah a cliff, and thoee .,.. ll>e coes who fall. Th<y tal<e ehan=, and ll>ey looe. A leader has 10 be able 10 ficb• apioll his own ...u.;tlool; be able 10 tum around and tO go home if tbc climb is too rm.ach for him. Titere are~ who race \0 climb t.M big £aces Olt' "·ho hunt for ~ toriety, but in fiYe or six )'Cil'$ )'OU doo't toe \hem around any ~ MOSt d tbcm quil. 1lae real climber .stic:b -.itb it aU his liSe. \Vba> .... " " - .... 100 difficult lor him-wdl, he alwa}• .... do the dil& and be just .. happy.• smaller cliffs, a It was on one of theee aaw thiJ philooophy few days Iacer, chat I put to the test. Wiessner and I had met in Chapel Pond Pass, near Keene Valley, in cite Adirondack MountAIN of New Yori< Scace. Above us, fitsured and oeamed, rcoe a rock wall 100 feet high. No one had climbed it, but Wiasner wu ready to do 10. We tied in co the rope, and Wieooncr mrttd swiftly up through a natTOW c:nck, cite cl.usic rock climber in action. ,...,.,_., him !he waU leaned outwa..S, for a~pa« cl perhaps fifteen -.ical feet. I cculd oce a few tiny hanclholcls, but no euy way past lungefor the rock, hung on for dcarlifc and hauled myself up. The rut wu euy. A few more ledges, a few cracks to be climbed by jamming most o( the body into them and inchi113 upwatd, and we were on top of lhe cliff, with the Adirondacks spread out in front of usranee after ranee of hills dark with spruce and pine. ~Look, Hal,'' said \VieMner, sv.-eeping his ann to encompass the horizon. uDoesn't it T H B END make you feel like a king?'' lhisoboude. With the ucmcoc preciseneao, Wiessner worited his way upward, pauoed for a moment, leaned ouc from the rock and craned his neck. 1bc.re wu -.ethi"3 about the route he didn't like. Silently, he came down again co a wide ledee, thought for a moment, and staned up again, this time IC· leeting a slighcly different collection of holds. Again, he paused to study the problem, and ~in came carefully down. "It will go now/' he called chee.rily to me. So rapidly my eye could not follow ~is. mov<:· menu, he ftickered up che lcclce, hooked chr« finger$ over a thin flake of rock and disappeared over the ledge above. I followed, but not with ouch ease. From his stance above, Witss.nc:r wu exertlng a firm buc steady pull on the rope. With chis assurance cl safety, I managed co claw my way throuch a maze of tOl-'ily inadequate holds and to crawl on my belly over che top of lheledee. Off co chc right a accond wall led up co a project!"« piece of rock broad enough ror a man to sir on. How to get there? This one was euy ror Wieaaner. He mov<>d upwaro on ocanc foot· and hand· holds, rum<:<~ hi• richc hand 10 chat ic r<Sted palm down on the projecting rod<, fineer$ facing outward and wrilc facing in· ward. Then hesently JWUngoutover~p~~cc, revening hit body, and sac comfortably down. When I followed, it wu the triumph cl bruce strength o.-a- an obRac:lc that de=-"«! """" eeoclc uuonmt. I made a 90 �Superintendent Aubuchon Correspondence Spider Rock UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR UNITm STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK GI RVtee NATtONAL PAAI( SCA'VICC ~..<k..QU.l.JKA.TtoHAI.. MOHUMIHT ~-C;J!-..U,lt.,.- HATIOHAl. MONUMCNT ---~!L.Arl•llur."------­ J, lON _ _ ..__ ..,,..lt =o..::...:~ L r .......,..., • • ~n-- ______ ....,.. _, ,~·~~~ ~Lc~ / -l.AtJJ,--.lt. 1JI 4 . _ ,.__ .,.,...,.. o..tl-t , Oroa W. Wlltw. ... ac..rlf ,..._11 116 ltOO't ...... C1111.lt. Ytt~. Ca ll.torll1• ,_ ,.....-t o.&r trr. Gal t •-'• tor ,.,.,.,,_ \ot &\~ \ot oU•• ~tUr lock o. ""'-it •t \11.- a tJ«&J ~k a."s....... •• ,..,,. -. M"$t•• • te.c Mr1•• ot ,_,,,,,. ,_,._ ,.._.w ,., a.to.-.u-. ~.. .r c..,. - ~7 nn~ ~ --vt.bab.~ ,_ 0111; , . _ -u~l .....- e1 lit'-..,. ..ot. - n t.at.,...C ..,....... t: .-6. oU.Nt c • .,, 1 uw. t.. c ~ ~ .,.,.,,. U) u. • 0..11~ ...U'-- t. .aw ""' .... ~s.~~oao ._. --.1• . , - ... .,. ""ll•'l• ,., tM<U.1• • .....,.l..... ...,.._tw ....,... , (I) .......... u.. ,.,'" u "-• Jl o. _._, '• ,..,., .,, .,. .._ -u~... TM . . .~ -""'"" 1- .r....,. 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I ..,-, tunrtC.nt ~--t •••fl ,;r... \41' tllnMm It OUl' clulr. to a•e~ld v.. 1W Wldttt~Md Ula t n 11111 4o •11 that h pou lbh \o aul•t 111 -...,,.nasu Wt or 6t!eu.trot ... ,,.not••· Yr"' •1 oot t.e •~tt t.o clrl•• lAte '"" ~ w ._.lilt I' lloelt. ;., 1ou ""'>' ~. w..re u •"'''•"" •• 1.., •• u.. •tt- h n h,. J <I&IIII!Ot c-L'" re'J t ...t..orl\)0 loot ll.rht I· t.¥ 1 ,. . .,.,...,. •ttlioou:l. r~rn •~c:.c 1M t0n0111tllla ot u. tt,.... 11M . . . \)',. ...,.tr-nt ._,,_1._., 1'"* ..u:......... .)I). J Nf. I -.rt. ..,. .._.... ,.... ~-. tw v.. ...rtt'lal ....,. "-"''ICJt fhJUatt.-. ,_-... tor o. ....... t • ..,.. \M apl tM l• ~·u. . ,... ~ s.. ,..., ..... " .. u ...l Pt.rk '*"le-t ritlet aM ~buen.. f Oil Al l laa.... fq M,p. . \ Rlpeo tl fGI' )'0\lr MoVlOIM a bUl\)' o 11&6)' •11 )'CIO;Jir ot.Mor ~ltab$ Ill •1,.H7 . .., ... N • Slnon dJ. c~~efl:./~ S~r l.n~\ )'O< , Lu \9 vt-.. • • , c.~ tM\ t~H ""''" 'JfN' Mrt r-tt of Atfi'OIIoelb W $ft4tr a-.1r. ! ~·' tllt.t 'JW P•tr-- ,..w elll!• •Hl • l'ltr Afnl l t .......,_. .r -t¥1' • ...U\1-.,.. .. 1. .. """"'•• 1 ...tn -~"' ..... llttne luo: .lf b4i A;rU 1. I~\"" M At C ,..,..l.HirA' ert.. .....,.. _ ....... ! r fl"'"" 5rl-.:: ~t. ~ I \&'- l wi.U MH :r--- U lU. w 4:""-• •.YUI..-1 . .._1\t. 1- /L??a.4h4 .... ~'";:.',.,_.._ ,'-'~ 91 �Postscript: Cleo Perspective and a Fun E-­mail Hi, Gerry. Of course. Please send. Fascinating stuff, I'm sure. In June 1958 I went up 60 feet (!) on Spider, with my dad nervously belaying. A girlfriend and I made the second ascent of Cleo. So I'm quite familiar with 1/2 Dome and the desert. For your amusement, here's something I wrote a decade ago for a John Cleare book in England. Steve My most petrifying climbing experience in the Southwest took place in 1962, when I was barely old enough to vote, let alone possess judgment. I badly wanted to climb a spire called Cleopatra's Needle, an awesome formation 225 feet high, thin as a knifeblade. This freakish pinnacle had been ascended only once, six years earlier. A few sentences in the first-­ascent account had both scared and intrigued me: "The second man had no problems taking pitons out. Few of the thirty even needed pounding with a hammer." Surely this wasn't true! I was traveling with a non-­climbing girlfriend that autumn, and we zigzagged through the region, hiking and doing things young lovers do. I had brought climbing equipment, thinking I could teach Sharon if necessary. She was a brave lass and on Cleo I easily dragged her up to a belay ledge 100 feet above the ground. She stared up at the next section, a dead-­vertical wall 125 feet high, soft as cheddar, and split by a single thin crack, through which we could see daylight-­-­the other side of the spire. She rebelled. I too wanted no part of it. But I was brimming with a dangerous drug, testosterone, and so, after teaching Sharon the rudiments of belaying and promising glibly that I wouldn't fall and that she needn't go to the summit, I set off, pounding pitons into the buttery sandstone with blows Thor would have been proud of. This was classic artificial climbing: a piton every five feet. On granite, it would have been a dream, but here the pitons kept shifting under my weight, and a few lower ones rattled out as I progressed. After two hours of this I was sacred witless and covered in red dust and sweat, wondering why Sharon and I weren't instead cavorting naked in a motel room. If a piton popped while I was perched on it, I wouldn't have to worry about my questionable belayer holding me: I would zipper every piton, smash down onto Sharon's ledge, and end up the size of Tiny Tim. As happens near the top of all artificial pitches, or so it seems, I began to run out of the correct size of pitons, hammering big ones part way into narrow cracks and tapping little pitons until they almost disappeared into wider cracks. Just as I was about ready to self-­destruct from panic, I pulled up onto the minuscule summit to see the rotting rappel slings left by the first-­ascent party. Somehow I got down alive (cleaning many of the pitons with, yes, my hands) and found poor Sharon weeping from fear, rage, and relief. I promised her we wouldn't do any more climbing, and we didn't for a full week. September 6, 2010 92 � Text A resource consisting primarily of words for reading. Examples include books, letters, dissertations, poems, newspapers, articles, archives of mailing lists. Note that facsimiles or images of texts are still of the genre Text. Original Format The type of object, such as painting, sculpture, paper, photo, and additional data PDF Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Desert Spires: Spider Rock, Cleopatra’s Needle, Totem Pole: Climbing Pictures with Original Articles and Selected Reading Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource Jerry Gallwas Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource 2010 Description An account of the resource Stories and photos of early ascents of desert spires Subject The topic of the resource Rock climbing First ascents Canyon de Chelly National Monument (Ariz.) Language A language of the resource English Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource PDF Extent The size or duration of the resource. 92 pages 8.2 MB Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context Desert_Spires_Photos_9_6_10.pdf https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/afb2300810b1197fff02de0cced20df5.jpg ab5efda51b787828d4470d3999cb7cf9 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Arizona 1900 to 1930 Alternative Title An alternative name for the resource. The distinction between titles and alternative titles is application-specific. Mountain Views - The American Alpine Club's first photo collection Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Description An account of the resource Photos of Canyon de Chelly, Monument Valley, Canyon del Muerto, Casa Grande, Petrified Forest, Grand Canyon, Marble Canyon, Painted Desert taken between 1900 and 1930. These photos were collected starting in 1916 by LeRoy Jeffers, the first Librarian at the American Alpine Club Library and include photographs donated and purchased from the U.S.G.S, Western rail road companies, surveyors, members or the American Alpine Club and other exploration and mountaineering organizations. Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant Arizona circa 1900 to 1930 Subject The topic of the resource Exploration & discovery climbing Arizona Canyon de Chelly National Monument (Ariz.) Grand Canyon (Ariz.) Muerto, Canyon del (Apache County, Ariz.) Marble Canyon National Monument (Ariz.) Casa Grande Ruins National Monument (Ariz.) Petrified Forest National Park (Ariz.) Painted Desert (Ariz.) Monument Valley (Ariz. and Utah) Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.AZ1 P1.AZ2 Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available The American Alpine Club Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.AZ1.008 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Book Room, AAC Photo Collection, Box 1, Folder 1 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Devils Corkscrew, Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 circa 1900 to 1930 Description An account of the resource View of the Grand Canyon Subject The topic of the resource Grand Canyon (Ariz.) Grand Canyon National Park (Ariz.) Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg .jpg Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. photograph photograph Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection grand canyon grand canyon national park https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/d514996892360ee798036e4b4c680a33.jpg 1f08519713758fac46dd5d3df62145c7 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource California 1900 to 1930 Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.CA3.011 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Books Room, Box 5, Folder 1 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.CA3.011 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant California, 1900 to 1930 Title A name given to the resource Devils Post Pile, S. E. Yosemite Nat. Park. Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection American Alpine Club Photo Collection Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource Huber Description An account of the resource View from rubble pile looking up at rock formations. Subject The topic of the resource Devils Postpile National Monument (Calif.) Yosemite National Park (Calif.) devils post pile devils postpile national monument geological features yosemite national park https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/0f7d62511fbd53990c4cf7e3c242deac.jpg a101d4cb4f22e03f1a110a542ddca799 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource California 1900 to 1930 Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.CA3.008 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Books Room, Box 5, Folder 1 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.CA3.008 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant California, 1900 to 1930 Title A name given to the resource Devils Post Pile. Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection American Alpine Club Photo Collection Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource LeConte Description An account of the resource View from rubble looking up at rock formations. Subject The topic of the resource Devils Postpile National Monument (Calif.) Yosemite National Park (Calif.) devils post pile devils postpile national monument geological features yosemite national park https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/adbb2b50c4acc919f9148e7defaa5ab4.jpg 1c8876e758e3de3c18d7dffc2392853a Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource California 1900 to 1930 Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.CA3.009 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Books Room, Box 5, Folder 1 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.CA3.009 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant California, 1900 to 1930 Title A name given to the resource Devils Postpile, National Monument, lower portion of main group Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection American Alpine Club Photo Collection Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource Nat. Park Service Description An account of the resource View from rubble pile looking up at rock formations. Subject The topic of the resource Devils Postpile National Monument (Calif.) Yosemite National Park (Calif.) devils post pile devils postpile national monument geological features yosemite national park https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/4d17d4f0a000badf7659218d3453f605.jpg c3692f739a35835d576aa74479f0840b Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Wyoming 1900 to 1930 Alternative Title An alternative name for the resource. The distinction between titles and alternative titles is application-specific. Mountain Views - The American Alpine Club's first photo collection Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant Wyoming, 1900 to 1930 Subject The topic of the resource Mountains Teton Range (Wyo. and Idaho) Grand Teton National Park (Agency : U.S.) Grand Teton (Wyo.) Jackson Lake (Teton County, Wyo.) Devils Tower National Monument (Wyo.) Yellowstone National Park Bison Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. Mountain Views Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.WY1.044 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Book Room, AAC Photo Collection, Box 27, Folder 5 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.WY1.044 Title A name given to the resource Devils Tower. Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant Wyoming, 1900 to 1973 Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Collection Subject The topic of the resource Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.) Teton Wilderness (Wyo.) Teton Range (Wyo. and Idaho) Devils Tower National Monument (Wyo.) Description An account of the resource A large stone butte composed of rock with tight vertical striations or sections, rising above a forest at its base. Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource Unknown buttes devils tower devils tower national monument geologic formations https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/a185959a58dee6bb00afc07b3b4a0309.jpg 946829f182a0bb5f159c9d40ee3a0017 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource California 1900 to 1930 Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.CA5.042 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.CA5.042 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant California, 1900 to 1930 Title A name given to the resource Devils Washbowl, Kings River. Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection American Alpine Club Photo Collection Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Three card-mounted photos Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Description An account of the resource A short waterfall emptying into a pool surrounded by rocks Devils washbowl kings river rivers waterfalls https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/224f383a43e8e03cdb1eeac1e3475ec0.jpg 62c20e16cf54eda3c6fd96f8f4976c78 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Hawaii 1900 to 1930 Alternative Title An alternative name for the resource. The distinction between titles and alternative titles is application-specific. Mountain Views - The American Alpine Club's first photo collection Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Subject The topic of the resource Kauai Hawaii Volcanoes Halekala Oahu Diamond Head Kilauea Koolan Range Haleakala volcanic eruptions lava Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (Hawaii) Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.HI2.024 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Books Room, Box 16, Folder 2 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Diamond Head, 761 ft. Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant Hawaii, 1900 to 1930 Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.HI2.024 Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection Description An account of the resource Looking across city buildings to peak in the distance. Subject The topic of the resource Hawaii Honolulu Diamond Head honolulu oahu settlements volcanic cone volcanoes https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/949584d804fe142252a177b1728c8863.jpg 60a6cdb9469015c13d2c82f30bfba382 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Hawaii 1900 to 1930 Alternative Title An alternative name for the resource. The distinction between titles and alternative titles is application-specific. Mountain Views - The American Alpine Club's first photo collection Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Subject The topic of the resource Kauai Hawaii Volcanoes Halekala Oahu Diamond Head Kilauea Koolan Range Haleakala volcanic eruptions lava Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (Hawaii) Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Contributor An entity responsible for making contributions to the resource LeRoy Jeffries Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. P1.HI2.031 Stack Location Physical location, e.g., room name or number, range/section number, shelf number, etc. Rare Books Room, Box 16, Folder 2 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach and Moana Hotel. Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1900 to 1930 Coverage The spatial or temporal topic of the resource, the spatial applicability of the resource, or the jurisdiction under which the resource is relevant Hawaii, 1900 to 1930 Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource .jpg Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Print, Photographic, Card-mounted Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context P1.HI2.031 Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Mountain Views Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Is Part Of A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included. American Alpine Club Photo Collection Description An account of the resource View across beach and bay with buildings towards peak. Subject The topic of the resource Hawaii Diamond Head Waikiki Moana Hotel beaches diamond head oahu settlements volcanic cone volcanoes waikiki https://library.americanalpineclub.org/files/original/26493226730c3df4ec5ec1d7a707beaf.jpg 87b8ec136428a6d32eb7d2e608ecd38d Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Andrew James Gilmour Box I Album I Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource Andrew James Gilmour Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa early 20th century Subject The topic of the resource Margate Beach Bathing Machines United Kingdom Yalding Medway Zoos St. Christophe France La Meije France French Alps L'aile Froide France Machines Dynamos Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Nitrate film Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource jpg Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library Visual Materials Visual materials and three-dimensional objects. This item type includes elements for local fields that do not map to Dublin Core. File Name File name of the digital object. AJG.B1A01.089 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Die Geuy Identifier An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context AJG.B1A01.089 Creator An entity primarily responsible for making the resource Andrew James Gilmour Description An account of the resource A river in the foreground, tall peaks in the background Date A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource circa 1905 Format The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource jpg Extent The size or duration of the resource. 3024 _ 4052 pixels 350 pixels/inch 1.5 MB Medium The material or physical carrier of the resource. Nitrate film Rights Information about rights held in and over the resource Public Domain Publisher An entity responsible for making the resource available American Alpine Club Library alps france rivers