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                <text> San Juan National Forest (Colo.)</text>
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          <element elementId="41">
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fl&amp;co r4^

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olulwes _L

�I

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WAIVER OF NOTICE OF FIRST MEETING.
We, the undersigned, being

i

four of the sub-

scribers to the Cha.rter of the American Alpine Club, hereby
waive all notice required by law or otherwise for the hold­
ing, on January 6

, 1916, at 3.30

o1 clock

, at

the office of Henry G. Bryant, Esquire, 804 Land Title
Building, Philadelphia, Pa., of the first meeting of such
subscribers and members of such corporation and hereby
agree that the said first meeting be held at said place
and time for the transaction of all such business as would
naturally come before a first meeting of the subscribers
to a charter of a corporation.

I

:

wJJMK.L,-

7

L»y

(Note:— Owing to the death of Dr. J. William White, the
fifth subscriber to the Charter, it was impossible to secure
&gt;
■'

his signature on the above waiver.)

�I

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
FIRST MEETING OF INCORPORATORS.

The first meeting of the subscribers to the Charter
of the American Alpine CIud was held on the sixth day of January,
1916, at the office of Henry G. Bryant, Esquire, S04 Land Title
Building, Philadelphia, Pa., at which there were present, out of
the five subscribers to the Charter, the following three:

Henry G. Bryant,
J. Henry Scattergood,
George Vaux, Jr.
A quorum was thus present and the meeting pro­
ceeded to organize by the appointment of Henry G. Bryant as
Chairman and J. Henry Scattergood as Secretary.
The Secretary produced a waiver, signed by four
of the subscribers to the Charter, of notice for the holding of
this meeting and agreeing that the same be held at this time

and place.

Whereupon, on motion duly made and seconded, it was

unanimously resolved that a copy of said waiver be attached
to these minutes and that the original be filed in the archives
of the Corporation.
The Secretary produced the Charter of the Corporation. which had been duly approved by the Judge of the
Court of Common Pleas No. 1 of the County of Philadelphia,
and duly recorded in the office for the recording

J

-1-

�!.

»

of deeds and in the Prothonotary's office, as required by
law.

On motion duly made and seconded it was unanimously

resolved that the said Charter be accapted as the Charter
I

of this Corporation.
On notion duly made and seconded it was unani­
mously resolved that the By-laws which had heretofore been
used as the By-laws of the unincorporated association,(of
which this corporation is the successor9) and a copy of
which is hereto attached, be a.nd they are hereby adopted
1

as the By-laws of this Corporation^with the exception noted
in the copy hereto attached of making the officers and

#

councilors serve for a period of one year instead of for
a period of three years as provided in Section III of the
original By-laws and with the further exception that said
officers and councilors may hold the sane office for three
successive terms of one year instead of being limited to
one term of three years, as provided in said Section jf the
By-laws,
On motion duly made and seconded it
was unanimously resolved that the seal, an

a

impression of which appears opposite to this'j
Resolution, be and the same is hereby adopt­
ed as the seal of this corporation.
On notion duly made and seconded it was unani­
mously resolved that all those who were members in good
standing on December 31, 1915, of the old, unincorporated
association, the American Alpine Club, be and t.ney are

�a

hereby elected to membership in the present corporation
and that immediate notification to this effect be given
to the said members.
On motion duly made and seconded it was unani­
mously resolved that this meeting of the members of this
corporation adjourn to meet on January 8, 1916, in Room
213 of the New York Public Library at 42nd Street and Fifth
Avenue, New York City, at two o’clock P. M., being the
time and place fixed hereby for the annual meeting of the
members of this corporation, of which meeting notice was

i

given before the incorporation of this corporation to all
the members of the preceding unincorporated society.

i

..;;

life_____

�~

V

V

By-Laws of The American Alpine Club.

.
OFFICERS

r

THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

:

By-Laws
1. This association shall be called The
American Alpine Club.

3. The officers of the Club shall be a Presi! dent and two Vice-Presidents (one of whom
shall be elected from the Western United
States), a Secretary and a Treasurer, who, to­
gether with four councilors-at-large, shall
constitute the Board of Directors of the Club.
Th^.offirorr, ruid miiru'ilnrr rJa.nll

4fiennially—a4—the—annual—
u-nth-their. &amp;uccoGO&lt;»r.s-are elected,—Neither the
I-rcoidont nor the-Vico PrceidentG..shall hold
the- famei
successive..terms.
CAnrp

OBJECTS

2. The objects of the Club shall be: the
scientific exploration and study of high moun­
tain elevations and of the regions lying within
or about the Arctic and Antarctic Circles; the
cultivation of the mountain craft; the promo­
tion and dissemination of knowledge regard­
ing the regions above indicated. It shall for
its primary work undertake the study of the
high mountains of all America, gathering in
the facts and phenomena pertaining to them,
and shall publish a series of illustrated mono­
graphs of these mountains for the purpose
of presenting a complete description of the
alpine mountains of the Western Hemi­
sphere. This By-Law shall not be construed
as restraining the Board of Directors from
undertaking such other minor publications as
may seem to them desirable.

!
:
.

I

5

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

4. The Board of Directors shall have re­
sponsible control of all the Club’s work and
property, except in so far as it may be other­
wise determined by these By-Laws; it shall
arrange for all meetings, shall direct the man­
ner of the publications of the Club, and shall
! elect members as hereinafter provided.
CLASSES OF MEMBERSHIP

5. There shall be two classes of member­
ship : Active and Honorary.
6

The changes in the above By-Laws referred to in the minutes of

the first meeting of the Incorporators are as follows.

In place of

the provisions canceled as above,should be substituted:—
"The officers and councilors shall be chosen
at the annual meeting to serve until their successors
They may hold office for three successive
are elected,
terms of one year each. Neither the President nor the
Vice Presidents shall hold the same office for more
than three successive terms of one year each."

...

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QUALIFICATIONS FOR ACTIVE MEMBERS

6. Persons eligible for active membership
are: First, those who have made mountain
ascents which the Board of Directors shall
consider acceptable. No mountains shall be
so regarded which do not attain an altitude of
two thousand feet above the snow-line of the
regions in which they are found. Second,
those who have conducted explorations in the
Arctic or Antarctic tracts. Third, those whose
contributions to the literature or science of
mountaineering, to recent glaciology, or to al­
pine art have, in the opinion of the Board of
Directors, been of permanent importance in
advancing a knowledge of these subjects.
METHOD OF ELECTION

7. Any member may nominate candidates
for membership. A nomination shall be writ­
ten upon an official printed blank and mailed
to the Secretary. It shall contain the name,
address and record of the candidate and the
signatures of the proposer and of one sec­
onder. When a candidate has been thus
nominated, it shall be the duty of the Board
of Directors to consider his qualifications, and,
if they seem sufficient, to direct the Secretary

§

DUES

9. The annual dues, (for active members
only) shall be five dollars. Any member in
arrears for one year after two notifications of
indebtedness have been sent by the Treasurer
at intervals of six months may be considered
to have forfeited membership. A life membership may be obtained on the payment of
fifty dollars.
MEETINGS

10. "I here shall be at least one stated meet­
ing annually. This shall be held in Decembei or January in Boston, New York, Phila­
delphia or Washington, or else at such place
as may be designated for that year's meeting
of the American Association for the Advance­
ment of Science; with this meeting shall be
combined a social gathering and annual dinner
| at which the President shall preside. Special
I nieetings of the Club may be called by the
| President, or, with his authorization, by the
Eastern Vice-President.
HOME OF THE CLUB.

11. The constituted home of the Club shall
be in Philadelphia.

7

9

to mail a copy of the nomination to all active
members of the Club, with a statement that,
in the judgment of the Board of Directors,
such candidate appears to be qualified under
the provisions of the preceding paragraph.
Such notice shall also contain a request that
the members communicate with the Secretary
regarding the candidate and a statement that
such communications will be deemed confi­
dential by the Board of Directors. The mem­
bers shall have three weeks from the date of
the mailing of said notice in which to post to
the Secretary their objections, if any, to the
election of the candidate. The Board of Di­
rectors shall elect active members by a ma­
jority vote, but no person shall be elected to
membership against whom five members of
the Club shall have filed written objections
with the Secretary, as above provided.

SECTIONS

HONORARY MEMBERS

12. The members of the Club residing west
of the Rocky Mountains are empowered at
any time to constitute themselves into a Pa­
cific Section of the American Alpine Club for
the purpose of holding meetings. The West­
ern Vice-President shall be ex-officio Presi­
dent of the Section. To the same end, mem­
bers of the Club residing in Canada may form
a Canadian Section.
AMENDMENTS

13. Amendments to the By-Laws may be
made at any regularly called meeting of the
Club by a vote of two-thirds of the members
present, personally or by proxy, provided that
the amendment or amendments proposed shall
have the signatures of five of the members of
the Club, and that notification of the intended
changes has been mailed to the members one
month in advance of the time of action.

8. Only persons who have pre-eminently
distinguished themselves in mountaineering,
exploration, or research shall be eligible to
Honorary Membership, and they shall be
elected by a unanimous vote of the Board of
Directors.
8

10

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I
!

’§

;

ADJOURNED ORGANIZATION MEETING
OF THE
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
a Pennsylvania corporation
held at the Public Library, 43nd Street, New York City, on
January gth, 1916.

Henry G. Bryant, Esq., of Philadelphia, in the Chair,

Among

those present were: Mr. Robert H. Chapman, Mr. J. H. Cuntz, Mr. Lewis
L. Delafield, Professor Charles E. Fay, Dr. A. J. Gilmour, Miss Mary
L. Jobe, Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, Miss Dora Keen, Mr. A. H. MacCarthy, Mr.
Howard Palmer, Professor Herschel C. Parker, Honorable Harrington
1

Putnam, Mr. J. Henry Scattergood, Mr. Benjamin F. Seaver, Dr. Hudson

h

Stuck, Mr. George M. Weed.— IV.
THE CHAIRMAN:

i

As mentioned in the paper which I read at the

last meeting of the voluntary, unincorporated association, the incorporators of the newly-organized

American Alpine Club met day before

yesterday, and went through the necessary formalities of adopting the
Old by-laws and of electing the old members of the Club members of the
present organization,

When we had finished our work, we adjourned to

meet in this building at this hour, on this day; and therefore it is
in order to continue that meeting, so as to keep the proper sequence in
the records of the Club.
There are various matters which come before us as a new organization.

Perhaps the most important is that of electing officers,

If a

motion is carried at this meeting nominating and electing the officers
i

and Councilors of the old organization, then by this action we will

k

have a proper Board of Directors; so a motion is in order that the
officers and Councilors of the old Club be nominated for officers and
Councilors of the new Club.

'

�Q

PROF. FAY:

I so move, Mr. President.

THE CHAIRMAN:

Professor Fay moves that the officers and

Councilors of the former unincorporated American Alpine Club be and
hereby are nominated as officers and Councilors of the present incor­
porated American Alpine Club.

Are there any remarks?

I therefore put the question.

This election is for one year only,

(No response.)

for a period which expires at the end of the present year.

All those

in favor of the election of the present officers and Councilors to
serve in the newly incorporated American Alpine Club will signify it
by saying "Aye".
(The quest ion was unanimously carried.)
THE CHAIRMAN:
*

The next matter of moment to come before the

meeting is the ratification of a very important agreement which your
Council have concluded with the New York Public Library.

For years

we have had our small alpine library locked up in a room in Philadel­
phia, in a somewhat inaccessible place, and realizing that this was
a rather selfish proceeding we have made overtures to the New York
Public Library, and have met with a very generous response,

As a

result of somewhat protracted negotiations, we have arrived at a sat­
isfactory agreement, whereby this nucleus of a library will be placed
on deposit in this great Public Library of New York,

The books so

deposited will be marked with a proper book-plate, showing that they
are the property of the American Alpine Club,

It is anticipated that

this collection of books will remain here for a great many years, possi­
bly forever, but it is pleasing to know that they will be made accessi­
ble to the public as well as to all those who are interested in moun­
taineering literature.

�It will now be in order to read the agreement which has been
arrived at between the Library and the Club, and then a resolution
authorizing the Secretary to sign and accept the agreement on behalf
of the Club, and affix the seal, will be in order.
MISS KEEN:

I would like to know about how many bindings there

are now?
THE CHAIRMAN:
MISS KEEN:

In our own library?

Yes.

THE CHAIRMAN:

Something under one hundred, including those

in Philadelphia and New London.
MISS KEEN:

Including pamphlets and magazines?

THE CHAIRMAN:

ft

Including the unbound volumes.

'We have quite

a number of exchanges which have not yet been bound; but we have some
very interesting books, presentation copies by the Due de Abruzzi and
others of our members.

Mr. Secretary, will you read the agreement?

THE SECRETARY, reading:
THIS AGREEMENT entered into this Sth day of
January, 1916, in the City of New York, between THE NEW
YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations,
of the first part, and the AMERICAN‘ALPINE CLUB of the
secondpart, witnesseth:
First. The party of the second part hereby deposits as a
loan with the party of the first part all the books and
pamphlets on mountaineering subjects now in its possession,
and agrees to deposit in like manner all similar books and
pamphlets acquired by it in the future.
Second. The party of the first part accepts the deposit
and agrees to place the collection aforesaid in its sec­
tion of mountaineering literature, said collection to be
available for consultation within the building under the
same rules and conditions as the other collections belong­
ing to the party of the first part.
i

Third. The party of the first part agrees to catalogue the
said collection and to take the same precautions against
damage and loss as is the case with books which are its own
property.

�A (\

Fourth. The party of the second part agrees to subscribe at its own expense for the leading mountain­
eering periodicals, which are to be bound by the
party of the first part and included in the American
Alpine Club collection.
Fifth._ The party of the second part agrees tc pro­
vide a special book plate, the design of which is to
be approved by the party of the first part, to be
placed in the books belonging to the American Alpine
Club collection.
Sixth. The party of the second part agrees to transfer
at its own expense the books and pamphlets aforesaid.
Seventh. The party of the first part agrees to add
to its own collection by purchase, at its discretion
and as its funds permit, such works on mountaineering
subjects as seem most desirable.

ft

Eighth, Either party to this agreement may cause it
to be terminated by giving notice to that effect twelve
months in advance; but in case such notice shall be
given by the American Alpine Club within twenty-five
years from the present time, a reasonable sum shall be
paid to the New York Public Library for the expense
which it may have incurred in cataloguing and binding
the books in the American Alpine Club collection.
THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY.
Astor,Lenox and Tilden
Foundations.

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB.

By

By

C. H. Russell,

Howard Palmer,

Secretary
THE SECRETARY:

Secretary.

The President will ask for the passage of a

resolution authorizing me to sign for the American Alpine Club in the
following terms:
MR. CHAPMAN:

Mr. President, just a moment,

Might not that state-

ment written in there be construed to include all copies of "Alpina
Americana" which are now in the possession of the Club?

It says "all

the books on any Alpine subject in possession of the Club."
rise to a question.

I just

�11

THE CHAIRMAN:

Possibly copies of our publication would

scarcely be dignified by tbe name of books, but from the fact that
■

we have realized so very little from the sales of our publication
so far, that would not represent a very serious financial loss; but
it would be a distinct disadvantage, I think, to separate ourselves
from the large collection of "Alpina Americana" which we have, and
which will become increasingly valuable as time goes on.

But I anti-

cipate no effort on the part of the New York Library Trustees to try
to secure our reserve stock of these publications which have been
produced from time to time, and as the agreement has been the result
of considerable care and reflection and would necessitate mutual con­
cessions, I think possibly, if it is not urged, that we should not
make any special change in regard to exempting those publications.
MR. CHAPMAN:

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I was not rising to any objections; I merely

asked the question.

THE CHAIRMAN:

I believe it is not anticipated to part with

copies of our own "Alpina Americana".
MR. DELAFIELD:

Mr. President, I am not sure whether you

suggested the form of the resolution,

It has been handed to me by

the Secretary, and reads as follows:
"RESOLVED that the agreement between the New York Public
Library and the American Alpine Club, Incorporated, as now submitted,
be approved and adopted, and the Secretary of the Club be requested
and authorized to execute the same in behalf of the Club."
I move its adoption.
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THE CHAIRMAN:

You have heard the resolution, which has

been drawn up with special reference to its proper form and to comPly with all the formalities of the case.

Are there any remarks?

�'I* -oV

(No response.)
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Then I will put the question.

THE CHAIRMAN:

The Secretary reminds me that th is is our

first official act as an incorporated Club.
The great European War has reached out and touched even this

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Club, and we have lost one of our young and splendid brothers from
Boston, Mr. Charles R. Cross, Jr., who was killed near Dinard while
serving in the Ambulance Corps of France.
!?

It seems appropriate that

we should have a minute of the death of this gallant young Bostonian,
and I will ask Professor Fay to kindly present a suitable minute.
PROF. FAY:

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Mr. President, this has been drafted rather

hastily on my way across, and I should have been very glad if it could
have been submitted before adoption to a larger committee.

The form

in which it is drafted is as follows:
"The American Alpine Club has learned with profound
regret of the untimely death of its highly esteemed member
Mr. Charles R. Cross, Jr., while engaged in relief work with
the Ambulance Corps on the western front of the present ter­
rible war.

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"Mr. Cross was an enthusiastic lover of the freedom
of the wilds, and keenly susceptible to the joy of conquest
in the scaling of Alpine peaks, as is witnessed by his sev­
eral expeditions to the far Northwest, and by his record of
climbs in Switzerland and in the Canadian Alps. Inspired with
the idealism so often characteristic of spirits thus attuned,
it was but natural that he should feel summoned to a service
where the mitigation of human suffering was attended with
grave personal danger.

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"The American Alpine Club hereby places upon record,
with its deep sense of loss, an expression of its admiration
of his excellent qualities and the heroism of his end."
THE CHAIRMAN:

You have heard the minute proposed by Pro-

fessor Fay.
&gt;

DR. STUCK:

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I move that it be adopted by a rising vote.
(The resolution was so adopted.)

.

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THE CHAIRMAN:

For some months the Council has had before it a

proposition of Mr. Jeffers relating to a possible unity of action among
the various mountaineering clubs of this country,

I believe that one

of the most useful projects which is included in that scheme is to have
a sort of clearing house here in New York City, where all sorts of moun­
taineering information can be obtained by the circulation of pamphlets,
and keeping an open office and having all information brought together
on those subjects.

Mr. Jeffers is with us, and I will ask him to briefly

outline the plan of cooperation which he has in view

with the possibil­

ity of asking you to take some action on that question later on.
MR. JEFFERS:

During the past summer I visited all the mountain­

eering clubs in this country and Canada, and interviewed the Secreta­
ries in many cases, and where meetings were called of the directors; and
while it was informal, at my own request, and no action was taken, the
people who discussed the matter were the leading members of the clubs,
and they stand ready to take up in each instance the matter officially
with their respective clubs.
It was proposed that the mountaineering clubs of North America,—
The American Alpine Club, the Appalachian Mountain Club, the Alpine Club
of Canada, the Colorado Mountain Club, Explorers Club, Fresh Air Club,
the Sierra Club, the Prairie Club and so forth,— form an association
for mutual acquaintance and advancement,

This organization shall be

known as The Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America, its head­
quarters being in New York City; and purposely I have left the form of
organization open entirely to the action which the American Alpine Club

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may take, if it sees best to refer the matter to its Councilors, hoping
that that committee will draw up the best plan for such an association
along very bread lines, which would not be restrictive in any sense to

�■iR A
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the individual clubs.

It is not proposed to establish a common indi­

vidual membership, consisting of all mountaineers in the country, but

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only to form an association of clubs, each of which shall cooperate as
a club, each club designating its representatives who would voice their
wishes, and transact business through them.
The objects of the association are many; in the future some
of the things that might be accomplished sooner or later would be pub­
lication of an annual leaflet of information to be distributed by the
Secretary of each club to its members, and for general distribution.
This shall contain the name and headquarters of each club, together
with its principal officers, a list of its local sections, data on its
publications, location of its club houses and huts, approximate dates
of its outings, its classes and conditions of membership, entrance and
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annual fees, etc.
I find, that the average member of a mountaineering club is
not informed as to what is being done in other parts of the country,
and when his vacation is made up he does not do it intelligently. This,
coming out perhaps in the spring, would give these facts in such form
for ready reference as would tend to increase mountaineering interests
and activity.
Each club shall regularly supply the Secretary with all its
printed matter, and with current information about its affairs, in order
that the office of the Secretary may become a clearing house for mountaineering information,

As you know, possibly, two large collections

of mountaineering books have been already established, one in this build­
&gt;

ing and the ether in the St. Agnes branch, the last being the books loan­
able for home use, and it is intended to issue catalogues from time to
time which would be distributed to members.

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Then another activity which some particular clubs seem to
need is that of material for lectures, and I specially inquired of
each club whether they had collections of lantern slides which could
be loaned, and all expressed a willingness to send those collections
any time they were desired.

For instance, the Mountaineers have

slides on each of their outings; the Sierra Club has very beautiful
slides, and sc with all the clubs, - the Colorado Club, the Prairie
Club.

They have a series of lectures during the winter, and they

need speakers.

If members of the clubs who have slides and can tell

about them, can notify a central point, the clubs that are en route
when these members travel could be notified of approximate dates, and
arrangements could be made for lectures.

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Another thing which could be gradually done is the education
of the public by means of illustrated articles that might appear occa­
sionally in the leading magazines, the articles to be written and illus­
trations supplied through the local representatives of each club,

The

articles would be published with a note in regard to the general asso­
ciation, and in that way call general attention to the fields of mountaineering activity.
In possible instances there might be unanimity of opinion in
the clubs, for conservation and proper development of mountain regions,
possibly in the nature of building a trail, as in the case of the John
Muir trail; I have heard no objections to the construction of that, and
it would open up a magnificent region in the high Sierras.
And it is thought that stationery bearing the names of promi­
nent mountaineers throughout the country might be of service in writing
people, and such an organization would certainly tend to help movements

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of that kind in which there was no difference of opinion,

But great

care would need to be used where there was local difference of opinion.
In rotation, possibly, each club might offer the privileges
of its annual outing to members of the other clubs, on the same terms
as its own active members, and delegates from each club could con­
veniently gather in th is way and thus make possible an annual meeting,
if it became desirable eventually, and a mutual acquaintance and fellow­
ship would be brought about.
I have letters to submit to a committee from leading mountain­
eers, stating that they approve of the plan of an association of the
different clubs, and stand ready to cooperate,

Briefly, they represent

the Appalachian Mountain Club of 1S55 members, Professor Fay, Mr. Law­

I

rence and Mr. Charles G. Bullard; Mr. Colby writes from the Sierra Club,
with some 1900 members; Mr. Roper, of the Prairie Club, 850 members;
Miss Nettleton, of the Mountaineers, 615 members; Mr. Glisan, of the
Mazamas, 475 members; Mr. Rogers, of the Colorado Mountain Club, 300
members; Professor Parker, of the Explorers Club, 150 members—and these,
you will notice, are in order of the membership of the clubs—Mr. Howard
Palmer, American Alpine, 95, and Mr. Mortimer Bishop of the Fresh Air
Club, 75 members; and if the Alpine Club of Canada makes some favorable
mutual arrangement there will be 790 more, making a total of 71C0 members whom the Association would directly represent,

The influence of

such an association would have great value in many directions.
In nearly all of the clubs, it should be noted, the American
Alpine Club has representation at present; and my wish in the matter
would be, if it seems agreeable to the meeting, that it might be referred
to the Councilors, that a feasible plan be gotten out, and that the clubs
be communicated with; and if this meeting seems favorable to the plan,

�I

that the Councilors might be empowered to act in the matter, and the
American Alpine Club become a member of such an association if it is
brought about.
I might say that I have taken it up in Washington with
officials interested in the National Parks and the development of our
regions, and Mr. Stephen T. Mather is heartily in favor of it, stating
that,
"I trust you will communicate with me from time to time
as your plan develops.

As I told you, I am heartily in sympa­

thy with your plans, and ready to assist you in any way con­
sistent with the performance of the duties of my office."
Mr. Robert Yard, having direct charge of the Bureau of Pub­

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licity for National Parks, says:
"The interests of all these clubs and the interests of
the national parks are so nearly the same that there seems
to be many ways in which the clubs can assist the government
in its business, and in return the government be of benefit
to the clubs."
And certain other officials in Washington likewise have stated that they
thought it would be a valuable asset to the development and conservation
of the parks.
THE CHAIRMAN:

You have heard this very interesting proposi-

tion as submitted by Mr. Jeffers.

The scheme is a very ambitious one,

and yet it possesses many elements of a practical nature which I think
oan be successfully carried out.
&gt;

The members of the Council have given

some thought to this, but the only way we can be instructed is by hear­
ing from members of the club generally,

This is a very excellent oppor-

tunity, and the members of the Council are all in a receptive mood, and

�18

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I hope that if anyone here has any ideas bearing on this subject he
will take this opportunity to express them.
MR. DELAFIELD:

Mr. President, I move that it is the general

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sense of the members of the American Alpine Club that the interesting
!
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proposition brought forward by Mr. Jeffers is worthy of further inves-

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tigation, and that it be referred to the Council with the request that
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they examine the proposition, with full authority, if they deem it
advisable to initiate or to take part in such a movement as is suggested
!

by Mr. Jeffers, to do so in behalf of the American Alpine Cluo.
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JUDGE PUTNAM:

I second the motion.

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MR. CUNTZ:

I wish to say, Mr. President, that I think this is

ah admirable plan,

Of course, I think the details can be worked out in

future; but I think we ought all to express ourselves as in sympathy
with the general policy; and I should suggest that the Council take as

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early action as possible, so that the American Alpine Club should take
the initiative in thi3 movement, as I believe is the proper thing for
;

us to do.
THE CHAIRMAN:

Do I understand that the members have a full

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understanding of the resolution?

I will ask the stenographer to kindly

read the resolution.
(The resolution offered by Mr. Delafield was read.)
THE CHAIRMAN:

Are there any further remarks on this question?

There is
Mr. Chairman, I have only one suggestion.
One thought in my mind; I do not mean that that shall stand in the way
Of this suggestion, but it grows out of my feeling of opposition to
MR. WEED:

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organized sport, and I dislike to see the very simple object of sport
I think that conservation
complicated by taking part in other things.
Of the public parks and all those sorts of things, are very desirable

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but it always comes to me with a doubt whether a club which is a purely
sporting club should go on record, one way or the other, in a great many
of those questions, officially.

I suppose it springs from the same feel­

ing, the idea that the less advertising a sport gets the better off it
ls.

It does not appear to me at all that a publicity bureau is wanted

for any sport, or to get into the magazines, or even to appeal to the
7100 people that might perhaps be interested in this thing,

It seems

to me that a genuine sportsman is a man who loves the sport for itself,
and says mighty little about it; his sympathy, his sportsmanlike quai­
ities, go out to others' like minded to himself, and he is not reaching
out to the public to applaud his work.

I find myself being conservative

on football, for the reason that it looks to me as if what actuates the

I

football player today is more the satisfying glory that he gets from
the people who go to make up the 50,000 who go to see him play than it
is for his real interest in the sport itself.
It is only with that conservative feeling, and the hope that
the sport can be kept as real sport, that I have attempted to say any­
thing at all in regard to this, because I think this plan reaches out
towards more ambitious work than it seems to me a true sportsman t/vants
to come to.
THE CHAIRMAN:

The members of the Council, of course, would

have an opportunity to overhaul the program, or the outline of the proposed association, before any formal recommendation is made or any official statement is sent out from this club, And on the matter of amateurism, I may say that the enormous amount of work involved in this undertaking has been shouldered by Mr. Jeffers without the slightest idea of
any compensation except his mere love of associating with and helping
mountaineers.

That much can be said.

�*

MR. WEED:

I do not want to be understood as casting any

reflections whatever on the motives for getting up this suggestion
because a clearing house for all the clubs in the United States and
Canada seems to me a very desirable project.

I was only throwing

out a word, I am only feeling that I dislike the advertising feature
of sport.
THE CHAIRMAN:

I understand.

MR. DELAFIELD:

It may not be inappropriate, Mr. President,

in view of what has been said by the gentleman, to call attention to
the fact that this association is not primarily formed merely to pro­
mote the recreation of its individual members.

Its corporate purposes

!

are:- "the scientific exploration and study of high mountain elevations

§

and of the regions lying without or about the Arctic and Antarctic Cir­
cles; the cultivation of the mountain craft; the promotion and dissemi­
nation of knowledge regarding the regions above indicated,

It shall

for its primary work undertake the study of the high mountains of all
America, gathering in the facts and phenomena pertaining to them, and
shall publish a series of illustrated monographs of these mountains
for the purpose of presenting a complete description of the alpine
mountains of the Western Hemisphere."
It is because, it seems to me, that the scheme brought for­
ward by Mr. Jeffers will promote the corporate purposes and the dissemi­
nation of the information, which it i3 desirable should reacn a wide
multitude of people, that I have offered the resolution which is now

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It is certainly not with any thought that any member
of this Club would care to exploit his individual climbing experiences.
before the house,

THE CHAIRMAN:
made by Mr. Delafield?

Are there any further remarks on the motion
If not, I will put the question. All those in

�&gt;

favor of the adoption of the resolution of Mr. Delafield will signify
it by saying "Aye."
(The question was unanimously carried."

THE CHAIRMAN:

As many of you know, the library of the American

Alpine Club is great in prospective rather than in present dimensions.

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Our well-known member who lives abroad, Mr. Henry F. Montagnier, has
indioated by several letters and by personal communications to your

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President, that it is his intention to leave his large Alpine library
to the Club, consisting of several thousand volumes.

As we know, Mr.

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Montagnier for some unknown reason got into some slight difficulties
with the Italian government, and he has sent a postal card reading as
follows:

i

"Mr. Henry F. Montagnier begs to inform you that until
further notioe his address will be Hotel Bristol, Berne,

,

Switzerland, instead of Villa Margherita, San Remo, Italy."
:

In view of the great interest Mr. Montagnier has taken in the
i

Club, it seems to me that it might be in order for someone to propose
that a friendly greeting be sent him by means of the Secretary, showing
how we appreciate his continued interest in the Club,

If that is in

order, I should be very pleased to entertain such a motion.
JUDGE PUTNAM:

Mr. President, I move that the Secretary be

authorized to send such a greeting, and if agreeable that he do so by
•:

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oable.
THE CHAIRMAN:

You have heard the motion of Judge Putnam.

those in favor of such action will signify it in the usual way.
(The question was unanimously carried.)

i-,..,

All

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THE CHAIRMAN:

Now we have before us the interesting part

of the program, and. I am glad to say the business part is finished
much sooner than we expected.
Whereupon, at 3.30 o'clock P. M., the meeting
ADJOURNED.
Respectfully submitted,
Secretary.

Mountaineering Reports*

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' i rHE remainder of the afternoon program was devoted to reA
ports of recent mountaineering work by members. Mr.
Robert H. Chapman briefly described an expedition made by
himself and Mr. Howard Palmer in July, 1915, north from Revelstoke, B. C., along the Columbia River. The party occupied
several outlying peaks in the Selkirks near Gold Stream and
Mica Creek and succeeded in mapping about 900 square miles
of unmapped country in both the Gold and Selkirk ranges. The
new map connects with and extends Mr. Palmer’s published map
of the Sir Sandford district, the two together embracing all the
territory comprised in the “Big Bend” of the Columbia River
and enabling the first comprehensive map of the Northern Sel­
kirks to be prepared.
Miss Mary E. Jobe gave a summary of her 1915 expedition
to Mt. Alexander Mackenzie in the northern Canadian Rockies,
Two months
illustrated with excellently colored lantern slides,
were occupied by the expedition and two weeks were spent near
the mountain which is estimated to be something over 11,000
feet in height. Two spirited attempts were made to reach the
summit, the last being abandoned within only about 200 feet of
the top, owing to a snowstorm. The mountain was explored on
all sides and considerable topographical information over a wide
Upon their return the party ascended Mt.
area was secured.
Bess (11,300 feet).

&gt;

Dr. A. J. Gilmour described with the aid of the lantern a
journey in the Selkirks south of the railway made in company
with Professors E. W. D. Holway and F. K. Butters, members of
the Club. The party accomplished the first ascent of a high peak
at the westerly source of the Duncan river and the second ascent
15

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of Mt. Duncan. They also discovered the largest lake hitherto
known in the loftier portions of the range. In the Mt. Robson
district of the Canadian Rockies, Dr. Gilmour and Professor
Holway accomplished first ascents of the “Mt. Geikie,”*visible
from Jasper and of several peaks adjoining Mt. Longstaff. The
latter repulsed them owing to the approach being attempted from
a difficult side.
Miss Dora Keen reported in detail her observations made
upon tide-water glaciers in Alaska. Many beautiful pictures of
snow formations and of great terminal ice cliffs were displayed.
The lecturer carried out a very arduous exploration of the Har­
vard Glacier, traversing it from tongue to upper neve, a distance
of 18 miles and securing photographs and data for a map. The
plan was to cross the range by a pass at its head, but this was
found to be impracticable and the party returned as it had come,
spending a month in all, during most of which there was rain
and snow. Later, the studies of other observers in College and
Harriman Fiords were continued, photographs of a score of
glaciers being taken from designated stations.

l

Announcement of a private exhibit of enlarged photographs
of the Canadian Rockies, especially arranged for the inspection
of members of The American Alpine Club by the officials of the
New York Public Library, and a vote of thanks to the Library
for the exhibit and for the accommodations furnished to the Club
for the meeting, terminated the proceedings at 5.45 o’clock.

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Annual Dinner,

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■JI7TEMBHRS and guests to the number of thirty assembled at
1V1 7.45 the same evening at the Hotel Manhattan for the an­

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nual dinner. President Bryant presided. After announcing the
incorporation of the Club and the completion of the arrangement
whereby its library is to be deposited with the New York Public
Library, he introduced Professor Henry Fairfield Osborn, Presi­
dent of the American Museum of Natural History. Professor
Osborn spoke of his personal recollections of John Muir, sub­
stantially as follows
It is a special privilege to attend a gathering of those who
admired and loved John Muir. He was not a “rough” man as
he has sometimes been called, but he exemplified tenderness,
courage, idealism and indomitable personal force. He typified
the majesty of the human soul in overcoming difficulties of all
kinds. In the wilderness he absolutely forgot that he had a
physical structure. He was a superman. His own descriptions
of his experiences invariably slight the heroic side. He was in
contact with the soul of nature always and he regarded the latter
as the embodiment of God. He could recite many parts of the
Bible verbatim.
He held the Old Testament point of view that
the works of Nature are the works of God. He personified trees
and loved each as an individuality.
To him they were not
merely wood, bark and leaves. It is hard to describe properly
his attitude toward them but he would often stroke the leaves of
a tree as one would stroke the head of a beautiful child.
He had a controversy with the distinguished botanist, C. H.
Sargent, about the name of a certain magnolia. The original specimen which Linnaeus described, had a faded, unattractive appearance, so he called it Magnolia Virginiana foetida; but later
Linnaeus named the same plant Magnolia grandiflora.
When
Muir saw the plant growing with its beautiful blossoms in full
bloom, he endeavored to induce Sargent to give it the second
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name applied by Tinnaeus, i. e., Magnolia grandiflora. Sargent,
who was a great stickler for precedent, absolutely refused, Finally Muir said, Suppose you had been christened Magnolia foetida
Sargent, would you not have had your name changed when you
grew up?” And he won his point.
One day, while journeying towards Alaska on the steamer
&lt;(
Queen,” Muir was pointing out the beauty of the scenery and
giving narratives of his previous travels in the region. One of
the passengers who could not understand his unusual interest
and enthusiasm interrupted him by saying, “Pardon me, Mr.
Muir, this is all very well, but how do you make a living?”
When Muir hesitated, and did not know what to reply, one of the
ladies in the party retorted by asking the interrogator the same
question.
To the amazement of everyone the man stated that
he was a manufacturer of horse-cars in the city of Boston. He
was silenced for the time being. A few days later the same in­
quisitive horse-car manufacturer was standing amongst a group
to which Muir was talking and enquired, “is that a bit of snow
up there, or is it a glacier?” Muir’s eyes twinkled as he replied
&lt;(
Yes, it is a glacier, and I wonder how that puir little thing
makes a living way up there. »»
He had a wonderful sense of direction and was not at all
afraid of travelling in the dark, even on glaciers.
But he could
not find his way about the streets of New York, even to go to a
house around the block. Muir often spoke of the “awful can­
yons and abysses” of New York. His literary style cost him
tremendous effort and in composition he wrote and rewrote many
times. He confessed that he owed much of his power of descrip­
tion to Milton, Carlyle, and the Bible. Titerary composition
was exceedingly arduous for him and was probably the hardest
work he did. Pie was lonely only because of necessity for he
loved companionship and tried hard to,persuade friends to go
with him, especially on his trip around the world. He said, “I
have chosen the lonely way.
Dr. Hudson Stuck was the second speaker. He made brief
remarks in reference to his ascent of Mount McKinley and paid
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a tribute to the aid he had derived from the work of his prede­
cessors in determining the right way. He expressed the hope
that some time he might ascend Mount Foraker but felt sure that
he would never again climb Mount McKinley. He said that the
greatness of John Muir would become recognized more and more
as time goes on because he saw and expressed what the beauty of
Nature symbolizes.
President Bryant next called on Dr. K. Motzfeldt of the Al­
pine Club of Norway who presented hearty greetings from that
organization. He spoke of the good opportunities for alpine
sport in Norway and credited English climbers with being re­
sponsible for its introduction there. The Club is ten years old
and has twenty members. The climbs are short and not far dis­
tant from the centres of civilization. The peaks rise to heights
of from 7,000 to 8,000 feet. They are usually steep and some
are quite difficult. They afford good sport but there are no good
guides. Club members have to educate and train local men for
guides. The huts are maintained by the Tourists’ Association
and the Alpine Club only has charge of those in the high moun­
tains.

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Professor Hiram Bingham, leader of the Peruvian Expedi­
tions of Yale University and the National Geographic Society,
next addressed the company, giving a description of some of his
experiences in climbing in the Andes of Southern .Peru, includ­
ing the discovery of the Inca City of Machu Picchuand the ruins
of other towns and works of ancient engineering in the great
canyons of the Urubamba and Apurimac rivers. Beautifully colored slides, graphically portrayed the grandeur of the scenery.
Dr. Bingham also briefly described his ascent, in 1911, of
Mount Coropuna, which he found to be 21,703 feet high. Previous measurements by the engineers of the Southern Railway of
Peru had accorded it an altitude of 23,000 feet, making it a close
rival for the honor of being the loftiest mountain in the western
hemisphere. The figure obtained by the expedition of 1911 is
the result of a careful triangulation from the Pacific coast, checked by mercurial barometer which gave a value within 60 feet of

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the former. Two specially constructed Watkin mountain aneroids worked well up to 18,000 feet, but beyond this height be­
came erratic and showed altitudes 1,000 feet apart at the summit.
The north peak of Coropuna proved to be lower than the western cone which was ascended.
Actual climbing began at an elevation of 14,000 feet, but
mules were successfully used to carry supplies up to the base
camp at 17,000 feet. From here three days were occupied in
the ascent and two days on the descent, There were four men
in the party, each carrying a load of about fifty pounds to an el­
evation of 20,000 feet, where two days were spent at possibly the
highest camp that has been made in the western hemisphere.
From here to the summit the members of the party carried only
25 pounds apiece, including instruments, cameras, food and a
small tent. The party made about 1500 feet of altitude a day,
experiencing decidedly unpleasant effects from the rarity of the
air. There was a loss of appetite, violent whooping cough, in­
ability to sleep, and a high pulse rate, 135 beats a minute when
at rest.
The speaker, in conclusion, exhibited a striking series of
slides showing several other great peaks of the Andes which had
never been climbed. These included the volcanic cones of Sarasara (20,000 feet), and Antesara (21,000 feet), both of which
are in the coast range in the general line of the well-known El
Misti and Coropuna; also the non-volcanic peaks, in the Apurimac-Urubamba watershed, of Salcantay (20,700 feet), Soray
(19,500 feet), and Veronica (20,000 feet). So far as is known
these are all virgin peaks whose bases are readily accessible in a
two days’ journey from Cuzco, the end of the Southern Railway
of Peru. It was a surprise to many of those present to see the
number of beautiful glaciers depicted in the different views.

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President Bryant, in bringing the evening to a close, called
upon Professor Charles E. Fay, an ex-President of the Club,
who made the interesting announcement that on the previous
evening he had dined with four of the original founders of the
Appalachian Mountain Club, in honor of its Fortieth Anniver­
sary which occurred January eighth.
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Minutes of a
DIRECTORS' CONFERENCE
held in New York City
January 35th, 1916.

A conference of Directors took place on the above date in the
office of Mr. Lewis L. Delafield, 30 Exchange Place, New York City, at
!

13 o'clock noon. Present: Messrs. Bryant, Delafield and Putnam.
i

The main points in Mr. Leroy Jeffers

scheme for the formation

of a Bureau of mountaineering clubs, were considered and the preparation
of a letter of invitation to be sent out by the American Alpine Club to
the prospective members of the association was entrusted to Mr. Delafield.
This was later drafted, mimeographed and mailed March 10th to the follow­
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ing organizations:
The Alpine Club of Canada,
The Appalachian Mountain Club,
The Colorado Mountain Club
The Explorers' Club
The Green Mountain Trail Club
The Mazamas
The Mountaineers
The Prairie Club
The Sierra Club
The Sierra Club, Southern Section
The American Geographical Society
The Geographical Society of Philadelphia,
The National Geographic Society,
The American Museum of Natural History
The Smithsonian Institution
The U. S. Bureau of National Parks

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Copies of the same letter were sent a few days later to the
British Columbia Mountaineering Club and to the Geographical Society
of Chicago.
A copy of this letter is included on the following pages.
By formal resolution, subject to the approval of the Board,

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Mr, Jeffers was appointed Librarian of the Club.
Respectfully submitted,
Secretary.

s

�oa 1
the

American Alpine Club

President
MR-

0

HENRY G. BRYANT

Treasurer

INCORPORATED 1915

MR. ALLSTON BURR
60 State Street

VICE PRESIDENTS

boston

PROF. HARRY FIELDING REID
MR- RODNEY L. GLISAN

Councilors
MR. LEWIS L. DELAFIELD

SECRETARY

PROF. HERSCHEL C. PARKER

MR. HOWARD PALMER

■

HON. HARRINGTON PUTNAM
MR. J. HENRY SCATTERGOOD

New London
conn.

Copy of the
Circular Invitation
instituting the Bureau of
Associated Mountaineering Clubs.

March 10, 1916.

Dear Sir:
The subject of procuring a greater degree of co-operation
between the various clubs and organizations of North America in­
terested in the cultivation of the mountain craft, the scientific
exploration and study of high mountain regions, and the promotion
*

and dissemination of knowledge regarding such regions, was
brought before the recent annual meeting of The American Alpine
Club by Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, one of its members, and, after discus­
sion, a resolution was adopted, in substance, to the effect that
the Club looked favorably upon any well-considered effort to that
end, and that the Council be authorized to take such further
steps in the matter as it should, deem advisable.
This present letter is addressed to you by direction of
the Council of The American Alpine Club.
It is proposed that there shall be formed a bureau or
central committee to be known as the Bureau of Associated Moun­
taineering Clubs of North America, of which the associated organi-

&gt;

nations, and not individuals, shall be members; that the respec­
tive organizations shall be represented in such Bureau by their
secretaries, or other officers deputed by them; and that the

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THE

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PRESIDENT

American Alpine Club

MR. HENRY G. BRYANT

INCORPORATED 1915

Treasurer
MR. ALLSTON BURR
60 State Street
BOSTON

VICE PRESIDENTS
PROF. HARRY FIELDING REID
MR. RODNEY L. GLISAN

Councilors

SECRETARY

MR. LEWIS L. DELAFIELD

MR. HOWARD PALMER
NEW LONDON
Conn.

PROF. HERSCHEL C. PARKER
HON. HARRINGTON PUTNAM
MR. J. HENRY SCATTERGOOD

executive work of tlie Bureau shall be committed, to a General Sec­
retary, to be selected by the Bureau, who shall care for its rec­

1

ords, supervise its publications, and conduct its correspondence.
Generally speaking, it is proposed that such Bureau shall
obtain information with respect to all of the associated organiza­
tions: their headquarters, their objects, the names and addresses
of their officers and members, their activities, their publica­
tions, their plans and the plans of their members for camps, ex­

0

plorations and expeditions, and the achievements of each organiza­
tion and of its members during each year; and that such of the
information, thus accumulated, as shall be deemed useful by the
Bureau shall be published and otherwise disseminated.
It is believed that if such a plan be adopted, it will
lead to closer harmony of action between the associated organiza­
tions in all that affects their common interests; and that infor­
mation useful to the organizations, and their respective members,

.

and knowledge valuable to the community, will be collected and
rendered readily accessible.
It is not proposed that such. Bureau shall have authority
to use the name of any of the associated organizations, or to bind

►

them by its action.

At the present time, no more is intended than

that such Bureau shall accumulate, disseminate, and act as a clearing house for useful information.
i*&gt;

If, hereafter, it shall be deemed

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�*.j 1

THE

American Alpine Club

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President

INCORPORATED 1915

MR. HENRY G. BRYANT

Treasurer
MR. ALLSTON BURR
60 State Street

1
VICE PRESIDENTS

boston

* PROF. HARRY FIELDING REID

Councilors

MR. RODNEY L. GLISAN

MR. LEWIS L. DELAFI ELD
SECRETARY

PROF. HERSCHEL C. PARKER
HON. HARRINGTON PUTNAM

MR. HOWARD PALMER
NEW LONDON
CONN.

MR. J. HENRY SCATTERGOOD

wise to define the objects and functions of such Bureau with
greater precision, and to enlarge the field of its activities,
such end can be readily accomplished by the consent of its asso­
ciated members.

All that is now suggested is the formation of a

common association which can be readily dissolved, if not found
to be of practical value, and from which any member may withdraw
i

at any time.

The true functions of such an association, its prac-

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tical utility, and the extent of the field ever which its activi­
ties can wisely be extended, can best be ascertained by experience.
Until such experience is obtained, it is not deemed wise to attempt
an exact definition of the objects of the Bureau, to bind it by
any hard and fast rules, or to attempt a description of the exact
field of its activities.

In its consideration of this subject, it

has been suggested to the Council of The American Alpine Club that
such a Bureau, if formed and efficiently organized, may prove useful
in many ways of which no mention is made in this communication.
Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, the Librarian of The American Alpine
Club, has generously consented to give his services as General
Secretary of the Bureau (if formed), for the first year, without
compensation, and, with a view to setting the matter in motion,
»

The American Alpine Club suggests that, until further order of
the Bureau (if formed), Mr. Jeffers shall act as its General Sec3

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PRESIDENT

:

Treasurer

MR. HENRY G. BRYANT

MR. ALLSTON BURR
60 State Street

VICE PRESIDENTS

boston

PROF. HARRY FIELDING REID
MR. RODNEY L. GLISAN

Councilors

SECRETARY

MR. LEWIS L. DELAFIELD
PROF. HERSCHEL C. PARKER
HON. HARRINGTON PUTNAM

MR. HOWARD PALMER
New London
Conn.

MR. J. HENRY SCATTERGOOD

retary, with headquarters in Hew York City.
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The New York Public

Library has accumulated a large collection of mountaineering books,
pamphlets and information, and it has recently been appointed as
depository of the library of The American Alpine Club,

By reason

of his official connection with The New York Public Library, Mr.

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Jeffers possesses facilities and information, which, it is be­
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lieved, will be very serviceable to the Bureau.
A sufficient sura has already been promised to pay the
estimated expenses of the Bureau, (if formed), until the first day
of January, 1917.

After that period, if the utility of the Bureau

is deemed by its members to justify its continuance, it is pro­
posed that the expenses shall be equalise shared by the associated
organizations.

It is not at this time suggested that any sal-

aries or rent shall be paid by the Bureau, and it is believed that
its expenses for other purposes need not exceed an annual total
of $200.

The action of any organization in assenting to the pro­

visional plan outlined in this letter, will not be construed as
committing it to continued membership in the Bureau, or to any
expenditure whatever.

What is now proposed by The American Alpine

Club is merely an experiment,

Whether it shall be continued after

the first day of January, 1917, must rest with the associated organizations.

If the experiment shall prove a success, it is hoped

that a more definite plan for a permanent organization shall be
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thk

American Alpine Club

;■

PRESIDENT
MR-

INCORPORATED 1915

HENRY G. BRYANT

Treasurer
MR. ALLSTON BURR
60 State Street

VICE PRESIDENTS

boston

HARRY FIELDING REID
W pROF. I
RODNEY L. GLISAN
MR-

Councilors

SECRETARY

MR. LEWIS L. DELAFIELD

MR. HOWARD PALMER
New London
Conn.

PROF. HERSCHEL C. PARKER
HON. HARRINGTON PUTNAM
MR, J. HENRY SCATTERGOOD

framed by the Bureau and submitted to each of the organizations
for its formal action.
The purpose of this letter is to aslc if the ___________
I

-------------— —--------- —--------------------— — will become a member of
the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of north America,
(if formed), for the general purposes, and upon the terms,
hereinbefore expressed?
Similar letters, inviting their co-operation, will be
addressed by The American Alpine Club to the following organiza­
tions:- The Alpine Club of Canada. The Appalachian Mountain Club.
The Colorado Mountain Club. The Explorers’ Club. The Green Moun­
tain Trail Club. The Mazaraas. The Mountaineers. The Prairie Club.
The Sierra Club. The Sierra Club, Southern Section. The American
Geographical Society. :Phe Geographical Society of Chicago* The
Geographical Society of Philadelphia. The National Geographic
Society. The American Museum of Natural History. The Smithsonian
Institution. The U. S. Bureau of National Parks.

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It will be within the power of the Bureau, if formed, to
invite still other organizations and clubs to become allied with it.
The plan outlined by this letter will be declared operative
if, in the judgment of the Council of The American Alpine Club i
the number of acceptances justifies the proposed experiment, If
the plan shall become operative, the future control of the Bureau
will rest, of course, with the majority of the associated organi­
zations.
It is requested that your reply to this letter be sent to
Mr. Howard Palmer, Secretary of The American Alpine Club.
Yours sincerely,
President American Alpine Club.
Secretary.
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Minutes of a
DIRECTORS' MEETING
held May 3, 1916, at
New York City.
■ I

Pursuant to notice, a meeting of the Board of Directors was
called at 3.30 p. m. in the office of Hawkins, Delafield and Long­

:

fellow, 30 Exchange Place, New York City, on May 3, 1916. President
Bryant presided and there were present in addition Messrs. Delafield,
Palmer and Putnam - four.
The Secretary reported the receipt of acceptances from nine
of the organizations invited to become members of the Bureau of

1

Mountaineering Clubs on March 10th, and presented letters from others

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looking to official action at a later time,

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After full consideration

of the situation, it was voted upon motion of Mr. Delafield, seconded
»

by Judge Putnam, to declare the plan operative and the Secretary was

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authorized to notify the organizations which had accepted and those
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not yet heard from,of the consummation of the scheme, in accordance
with the terms of the Club's letter of March ICth.

Below is a copy

of the said notification, issued under date of May 31, 1916:
" Referring to our communication of March 10th
proposing the formation of a bureau or central committee
to be know as the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering
Clubs of North America, I beg to inform you that, having
received favorable replies from the following organizations:
The American Alpine Club,
The Appalachian Mountain Club,
The Colorado Mountain Club,
The Mazamas,
The Mountaineers,
The Prairie Club,
The Sierra Club,
The U. S. Bureau of Natural Parks,
The Geographical Society of Philadelphia,

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Alpine Club at a
the Board of Directors of The Americanresolution
declaring
?hetplInh!ndo^a??» ^aicSXoeVth the terms of sail
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proposal.

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The officials of a number of organizations
invited to participate have expressed approval of
the plan, but are withholding formal acceptance
until the annual meetings of their respective bodies
can give official assent to the proposition. I„
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In such
cases, however, it is believed that future relations
with the Association will not be prejudiced.
In taking its place as one of the constituent
clubs. The American Alpine Club desires to express its
gratification at the success that has attended its ef­
forts to inaugurate the Bureau and at the widespread
cordiality and interest the plan has elicited, It is
apparent that a large field of usefulness awaits such
an association and that the time is fully ripe for its
organization.

!

We deem it an additional cause for congratulation
that the affairs of the Bureau for the first year are to
be conducted by a General Secretary so well qualified as is
Mr. Leroy Jeffers. The American Alpine Club, in terminat­
ing its action as a committee of organization, bespeaks
for Mr. Jeffers a continuance of the hearty spirit of co­
operation whioh ha3 marked the progress of the enterprise
hitherto and which alone can insure its ultimate success.
(Signed) Howard Palmer, Secretary."
The President presented a communication from the U. S. Bureau

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of National Parks inviting the Club to take the lead in a movement de­

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signed to raise funds for the purchase of certain groves of sequoia
trees.

The following resolution was passed:
RESOLVED: That, while heartily in sympathy with
the purposes expressed in the letter of Mr. Robert S.
Yard namely, the acquisition of the Sequoia grove of
great trees by purchase, the Council of The American
Alpine Club feels constrained to decline to commit the
Club to the support of the movement for the sole reason
that the furtherance of such movement is not within the
corporate purposes of the Club.

President Bryant announced that he would donate $500. for a
Library Endowment Fund upon condition that a like amount be subscribed
by other members of the Club, After an informal discussion of the
needed amount from the membership,at 4 p. m. the
best way to raise the
meeting adjourned.
Respectfully submitted.
Secretary.

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Minutes of a
Directors' Conference held
November 16, 1916, at
Brooklyn.

A conference of the Directors was held at the Hamilton Club,
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Brooklyn, on the above date at 4.30 p. m.

There were present: Messrs,

Bryant, Delafield and Palmer and Mr.’ H. L. Bridgman, Chairman of the
Dinner Committee.

After an informal discussion of the arrangements

and speakers for the dinner, Mr. Bridgman took his departure.
The records of Dr. George M. MacKee and Mr, Francis P. Farquhar
were considered without any formal action being taken one way or the
other.

It was thought that the candidates would desire to add to their

list of climbs.
Relations with the Alpine Club of Canada were referred to and
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considered, but it was deemed best to take no further steps in the
matter.
A proposal from the American Geographical Society in relation
to a reduced rate subscription to their publication was presented
by the Secretary, but it was thought that, despite the liberality of

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the offer, the Club could not justly invest such a large proportion
of its income in this way.
The meeting adjourned at 5.45 p. m.
Respectfully submitted,

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Minutes of a
Directors1 Conference held
December 11, 1916, at
Philadelphia.
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A conference of the Directors was held on this date at Room 400
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Witherspoon Building, Philadelphia, at 4. p. m.
Messrs. Bryant, Putnam and Scattergood.

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There were present:

The nominations for new

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officers, the selection of speakers and arrangements for the annual

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dinner were considered.

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Respectfully submitted,
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Minutes of a
Directors1 Meeting held
December 3C, 1916, in
New York City.
I

Pursuant to notice duly given, a meeting of the Board of
Directors was held at 11.15 a. m. in Room 307 of the New York Public
i
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Library on the above date.

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President Bryant occupied the chair and

the following members of the Board were present: Messrs. Allston Burr,

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Lewis L. Delafield, Howard Palmer, Harrington Putnam and J. Henry
Scattergood - 6.
The Secretary reported the proceedings of the Board meetings
and conferences Of Directors which had been held during the year on
January 35th, May 3nd,November 16th, and December 11th, and upon motion
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Of Mr. Scattergood, duly seconded, it was voted that all the tran­
1

sactions of said meetings and conferences (vide preceding pages) be
approved, confirmed and ratified.
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The reading of his report as Treasurer by Mr. Burr, brought
up the question of the investment of the $1035, constituting the
Library Endowment Fund successfully raised through the efforts of
President Bryant, to whom the thanks of the Club were expressed by
the Councilors present.

After thorough discussion, in the course of

which President Bryant voiced the hope that a yield of 5% might be
obtained from the investment. Judge Putnam made the motion, seconded
by Mr. Delafield, that
"The Treasurer be, and hereby is, authorized
to invest at once $1000.00 (more or less) of the
Library Endowment Fund in any appropriate security,
which,in his discretion, he may deem advisable."
This was passed unanimously.
Mr. Delafield, seconded by Mr. Scattergood, moved the adop­
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tion of the following resolution, which was unanimously carried:RESOLVED: that the principal of the fund
recently contributed by members of the Club, and
any subsequent contributions thereto, be held in­
tact by the Treasurer of the Club as a permanent
fund to be known as the Library Endowment Fund;
that the same shall from time to time be invested
by him subject to the direction and control of the
Council, and that the net income thereof be applied
by the Treasurer to the purchase of appropriate books
and literature, not including photographs and pictures,
for the library of the Club.
RESOLVED FURTHER: that so long as the New York
Public Library shall act as custodian of the library
of the Club,and until the further order of the Council,
the Treasurer be authorized, in his discretion, to pay
over the income of said fund to said New York Public
Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations, to be
used by it for the purposes aforesaid.
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President Bryant brought up the matter of the change in
the By-Laws of the unincorporated club made at the first meeting of

�the Incorporators as noted in the report of that meeting,
He stated
that the law of Pennsylvania has no specific provision requiring annual
elections for corporations of the second class, but that they might be
implied by reason of the law regarding corpcraticns for profit.

In any

case, however, the officers hold over until their successors are elected.
It was the sense of the meeting that pro forma elections should be held
by tne Club for officers and Councilors at each annual meeting, but
that the sarnie ticket should be nominated except at triennial periods
when new nominees would be in order; the President and Vice-Presidents
could not hold the same office for successive three-year periods, but
there was no reason why Directors might not do so; also the Secretary Treasurer,
$10. was duly voted to defray the expense of the membership

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of the Club in the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North
America for the year 1317.
The act of the Council at its meeting of January 2U, appoint­
ing Mr. Leroy Jeffers as Librarian of the Club,was approved by the meet­
ing.
The proposal of Mrs. Laurie Fra'rizeur for membership in the
Club was read but no action was taken.
President Bryant,in closing his term of office as President,
regretted that the publications of the Club had been so few.

He recom­

mended that "Alpina Americana" be published once in two years at least.
It was a matter of regret that so few new members had been elected.
At 1.00 p. m. the meeting adjourned.
Respectfully submitted.

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Secretary.

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Minutes of the
ANNUAL MEETING
of
The American Alpine Club
held at Public Library, New York' City
Saturday, December 30,, 1916,
2.00 p. m.

Present: The President, Henry G. Bryant, presiding; Dr. Harry P.
Nichols; Mr. B. S. Comstock; Professor J. H. Cuntz; Mr. LeRoy Jeffers;
Mr. R. H. Chapman; Mr. Allston Burr; Hon. Harrington Putnam; Mr. Lewis
L. Delafield; Mr. J. H. Scattergood; Professor Ernest Brown; Professor
Frederic K. Butters; Mr. Howard Palmer; Professor C. E. Fay, and Dr.
A. J. Gilmour

15.

THE CHAIRMAN: The meeting will please come to order.

We have before

us a number of copies of the printed report prepared by the Secretary
giving an accurate stenographic account of last year's meeting,

The re-

port is rather voluminous and will take some time to read; and I submit
it to the Club whether it is necessary to have the minutes read in full
or not.
PROF. BROWN:

I move that the reading of the report be omitted.

The motion was seconded and unanimously carried.
THE CHAIRMAN: So ordered.
I will now call for the report of the Treasurer, Mr. Burr.
TREASURER'S REPORT.
MR. BURR: Mr. Chairman and gentlemen, the report of the Treasurer,
is as follows:

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(Reading report showing a total credit balance of $'1392.12 and exPenditures of $1359.39, leaving a net balance on hand in the treasury
of $33.79,)

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THE CHAIRMAN:

You have heard the report of the Treasurer.
What is your pleasure with that report?
MR. SCATTERGOOD:

I move it be received and filed.

The motion was seconded and unanimously carried.
THE CHAIRMAN: So ordered.
DR. NICHOLS:

May I ask about the money received for the

library, was that turned over?

That is not reported in the balance

given by the report of the treasurer.
MR. BURR:

It should have been in the balance,

The balance

at the present time is the balance I gave plus the sum of $1035; but
in giving that balance I meant to insinuate that that was the balance
we really had for our use, ana the $1035. is now today invested in the
Library Endowment Fund.

Judge Putnam just reminded me of the Edward

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Whymper fund which is $313.35, which we organized, and there have been

!

three credits of interest, $6.69, $9. and $9.30, and the reserve fund
of $350., when it was turned over at the time, and there are also mem­
berships since, and three credits of interest.

So that there is there­

about $700.
THE CHAIRMAN:

Are there any remarks?

Any questions further?

DR. NICHOLS: May I ask as to what we have determined, as to
how that library fund is to be held?

Is it to be held by the Treasurer

or by a trustee?
THE CHAIRMAN:

The fund in question came up at the meeting of

the Council today, and a rather formal resolution was passed placing upon
the minutes of the Board the direct instructions as to how it should be
»

invested and administered.
Has the Secretary any communications, Mr. Palmer?

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REPORT ON MEMBERSHIP.
THE SECRETARY (Mr.Palmer): This year we have seen no increase
in the memoership, but on the contrary two have died.
Dr. J. William
White, of Philadelphia, and Mr.(Samuel H. Prouty, of Portland, Oregon.
That leaves the membership at the present time SI active and IS honorary
members.

There has been no change in the honorary 1 ist.
THE CHAIRMAN:

Have you any comment on the life of Mr. Prouty,

or anything that you can read?
THE SECRETARY: Mr. Prouty was one of the recent acquisitions
to the membership;and he had never attended a meeting, in consequence.
He lived in Portland, Oregon, and was a prominent mountaineer on the
coast, having climbed very largely among the western peaks of difficulty
and interest.

His illness was brought on indirectly by a trip to the

Three Sisters in Oregon; and it is a matter of regret to lose such a
valued member.
JUDGE PUTNAM:

I think it is desirable to have something on

the minutes in regard to the death of cur member, and inasmuch as we
are none of us personally acquainted with this gentleman, who has been
a member only a short time, I would suggest that a memorial be prepared
by Mr. Gli3an, his fellow-citizen, and the present Vice-President of the
Club, and that it be sent to us and afterwards incorporated in our min­
utes .
The motion was seconded and unanimously carried.
THE CHAIRMAN:

I would suggest that Mr. Scattergood, with

the assistance of the retiring Vice-President, prepare such a res~lu
tion or memorial, if that is satisfactory to you, Judge Putnam,

Would

1

you add that as an amendment to your resolution?
JUDGE PUTNAM: Certainly.
(The amended resolution was then put and unanimously carried.)

�f

THE CHAIRMAN: So ordered.

}

The report of the Librarian is in order
now. Mr. LeRoy
Jeffers:

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REPORT OF LIBRARIAN
;

MR, JEFFERS:

(reading)

During the year there have been transferred from Mr. Bryant
and Mr. Palmer 14 DOund volumes, 40 unbound, 42 pamphlets, 53 periodicals,
and 3? photographs.
the collection.

Judge Putnam has contributed 30 valuable volumes to

With a donation from Mr. Delafield, 26 volumes and 27

enlarged photographs have been purchased.
"The New York Public Library has bound such of the volumes,
pamphlets and periodicals as were worthy of preservation.

We have laid

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aside material belonging to the Club of which the Library already possesses |

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copies of the identical date and edition, and we recommend that authority

i

be giv.ai the Library to dispose to the best advantage of such material
'

on hand, and of similar material that may be received in the future. The
proceeds should be turned over to the Club to increase its Library Fund.
"So far as obtainable all mountaineering bocks published
during the year, together with many classics of earlier date, have been
purchased by the Library and added to the joint collection,

We have com-

piled and printed an enlarged list of mountaineering titles showing by a
t those that belong to the Club, and by a
only for reference use in the main library,

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those that are available
All titles not preceded by

a * are also available in the Circulation Department, and may be obtained
for home use through any of our branch libraries, We will mail a copy of
this list to all Club members.
"In order that our book collection may be of the utmost use
to all who seek acquaintance with mountain regions, we have purchased a
large cabinet for photographs and enlargements of mountain visas , and

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have placed it in the second floor northeast corner

room.

It now con-

tains the enlargements of Canadian Mountains made by the Dominion Sur­
vey, a fine collection of Mr. Harmon *s enlargements of
mountain scenery.
and several of Sella*s enlarged Himalayan views.

Professor Freeborn

has generously donated to the Club 74 enlargements of his Canadian mountain photographs, and Mr. Palmer has presented 11 enlargements of the
Canadian Rockies and Selkirks. We are calling the attention of the mem­
bers of all mountaineering clubs and geographical societies of the continent in their current publications to this picture collection, and we
hope to receive donations from many sections of the country,

It is par-

ticularly desired that members of The American Alpine Club contribute
views of their climbs and of mountain scenery in general,

We also sug-

gest that part of the annual income from the Library Fund be available
for securing views which cannot be secured as donations."
THE CHAIRMAN:

If there is no objection this report will take

the usual course and be filed among the papers.
LIBRARY ENDOWMENT FUND.
The recent raising of a fund to establish a Library Endowment
Fund brings up a question which I hope will receive favorable considera­
tion from the members, and that is to add to this fund from time to time,
if they are so disposed
stantial endowment.

so that eventually it will really form a sub-

In the meantime, in order that there may be a clear

record of this entire matter, I would suggest that a resolution instructing the Treasurer as to the administration of this fund, be preo^nted
here by a member so that it may be recorded in the minutes of the regular annual meeting of the Club. Mr. Delafield, will you offer that resolution?
MR. DELAFIELD:

I offer the following resolution, on the recom

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mendation of the Council:
"RESOLVED: that the principal of the fund recently
contributed by members of the Club, and any subsequent
contributions thereto, be held intact by the Treasurer of
the Club as a permanent fund to be known as the Library
Endowment Fund; that the same shall fiom time to time be
invested by him subject to the direction and control of
the Council, and that the net income thereof be applied
by the Treasurer to the purchase of appropriate books and
literature, not including photographs and pictures, for
the library of the Club.
"RESOLVED FURTHER: that so long as the New York
Public Library shall act as custodian of the library of
the Club, and until further order of the Council, the
Treasurer be authorized, in his discretion, to pay over
the income of said fund to said New York Public Library,
Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations, to be used by it for
the purposes aforesaid."
THE CHAIRMAN: That represents the views of the Council, and it
would be very agreeable to the Council if the resolution were passed by
the Club, thus endorsing their action.
DR. NICHOLS: I so move, sir.
The motion was seconded and unanimously carried.
THE CHAIRMAN: So ordered.
REPORT ON THE BUREAU OF ASSOCIATED MOUNTAINEERING CLUBS.
On the matter of deferred business, I will call for a report on
the question of the Bureau of Mountaineering Clubs.

Ycu will remember

that last year we went on record as approving the inauguration, under
the auspices of the Club, of a proposed bureau combining the mountaineering interests in this country,

This bureau has since been successfully

brought into existence,and I am sure that we would all be very glad to
bear from Mr. Jeffers, who has been Secretary of this agency in all its
work, as to the present status of the bureau.
MR. JEFFERS: (reading):
"In May 1916 the Bureau was organized with a member­
ship of nine clubs and societies. It now numbers fifteen,
as follows:

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4^p^Can plpine Club, Philadelphia and New YorkAmerican Geographical Society, New York’

ciub&gt; Boston and ' Y°r^

nw
critioh Columbia Mountaineering Club VancouverColorado Mountain Club, Denver
Vancouver,
Explorers Club, New YorkFresh Air Club, New York;
Geographic Society of Chicago;
Geographical Society of Philadelphia;
Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, Honolulu;
Mazamas, Portland, Oregon;
Mountaineers, Seattle and Tacoma;
Prairie Club, Chicago;
Sierra Club, San Francisco and Los Angeles;
Jnited States National Parks Service.
These compose a total individual membership of over 1C,000.
Among the activities of the Bureau have teen the fol­
lowing:
1. Publication of a Bulletin of information on the
officers, membership, outings, and activities of the lead­
ing clubs and societies of the continent, Copies were mailed
to all members of the associated clubs through their secretaries.
3. Over 100 volumes of newly published mountaineering
books have been supplied free of charge to members of the
association for addition to their libraries.
3. Several lectures have been satisfactorily arranged
between visiting lecturers and members of the association.
4. Information on mountaineering activities and data
on mountain regions has been supplied to numerous inquiries.
Cooperation with the Government has been given in further­
ance of the development and preservation of our National
Parks.
5. The combined collection of mountaineering books
of The American Alpine Club and The New York Public Library
has been materially increased by the purchase of all new
books published on the subject, and by the addition of many
classic volumes. All are available for use at The New Ycrk
Public Library, 476 Fifth Avenue. A selected list of these
books has just been published and will be mailed on applica­
tion to any member.
6. A large cabinet has been purchased by The New York
Public Library for photographs and enlargements of mountain
scenery in all parts of the world. The American Alpine Cluo
hife deposited its collection, and several valuable donations
heve »-een added, all of which may be consulted in connection
with the literature of the subject. Further donations to
this collection will be appreciatively received.

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The expenses of the Bureau for 1816 were gener0U8ly contributed by a member of The American Alpine
Club. For 191? it is estimated that the work of the
Bureau may be continued on the following basis: Owing
to tne very large number who receive the annual bulle­
tin, the cost of printing is a considerable expense.
In order to fairly distribute this and other expenses,
it is proposed that the 1917 membership payable in
January shall be $10. for each club of ICO members or less,
with an additional charge of 1 cent for each member over
100."

I

THE CHAIRMAN: At the Board meeting this morning an appropria­
tion of $10. was voted to defray the expense of the Club as a member of this Bureau of Associated Mountain Clubs.

It is hardly

necessary for me to say more than a word in expressing our great
obligation to Mr. Jeffers for the enthusiasm which he has shown in
i,

this work.

From now on our Club is simply an independent member of

this larger association.

It has been successfully launched and I

am sure that we all wish it a very happy voyage.
OFFER OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.
The Secretary has had some correspondence with the Director of
the American Geographical Society in regard to certain special and
favorable terms that will be granted by the American Society to mem­
bers of our Club in connection with the publication of that Society.
Have you any communications to make, Mr. Secretary?
MR. PALMER:

In connection with the final notice for this meet-

ing issued by the Secretary, the specific offer of the American Geographical Society was described.

That developed after the original

proposition, which it seemed due to the Society to read here if not
to accept.

The offer as we now have it grew out of the following

letter:
(reading letter.)

■I

�It was in Professor Bowman s mind that we, as a Club,
should pay a lump sum from the treasury to cover the cost ox subscriptions to the magazine at half price and that the latter should go
direct to the members.

This proposal was discussed at one of the

Council meetings, and it was felt that it was perhaps a little beyond
the purposes of the Club to make such a heavy investment of its in­
come in a publication which might appeal to comparatively few of the
members; so we were constrained not to accept,

Later,the offer as out-

lined in the final circular was made to us, and of course that is still
open, and I am now open to receive subscriptions from the members.
THE CHAIRMAN:

As the Secretary has announced, the matter
!

was considered at our Council meeting this morning, and no definite

;

action was taken, but it seemed to me that the matter was of such

■

general interest that I thought it would be well to have the ccrres!

pondence read.
ELECTION OF OFFICERS.
!

This being the third year of service of the present officers,
the election of new officers is in order, and I will now call upon the
Chairman of the Nominating Committee, Mr. Scattergood, to present nomi­
nations for the coming board.
MR. SCATTERGOOD:

Your nominating committee respectfully sub-

mits the following nominations for officers and Councilors for election
at the annual meeting of the Club, held in New York, December 30, 1915:
For President, Professor Charles E. Fay, of Boston;
Yice_presidents, Lewis L. Delafield, of New York,
William E. Colby, of San Francisco;
Treasurer,

Allston Burr, of Boston;

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Secretary, Robert H.

Chapman, of Washington;

Councilors:
Hon. Harrington Putnam, of Brooklyn;
Mr. Henry G. Bryant, of Philadelphia;
Mr. Howard Palmer

of New London;

Mr. Albert K. MacCarthy, of New York and B. C.
THE CHAIRMAN:
mittee.

You have heard the report of the Nominating Com-

What action does the Club wish to take in this connection?
DR. NICHOLS:
I move that the Secretary be empowered to cast

one ballot for the gentlemen named for the several offices for which
they were nominated.
The motion was seconded and unanimously carried.
*

THE SECRETARY:

The ballot is cast.

THE CHAIRMAN:

Mr. Palmer reports that he has cast the ballot,

and therefore it devolves upon me to say that the gentlemen named have
been elected to their respective offices.
MR. SCATTERGOOD:

Before passing from that subject I would like

to express the thanks we all feel towards the retiring President and
Secretary for the vast amount of work which they have done on behalf
of the Club, during their terms of office, and I would like tc offer a
vote of thanks to them for their efficient and faithful work.
JUDGE PUTNAM:
Pleasure.

I rise to second the resolution with great

When the officers, whose terms expire, entered upon their

duties, especially the President, the Club was not an incorporated
body. • Its small collection of books was distributed between New London
attained the character of stability
and Philadelphia, It had not then
and prosperity which the Club now enjoys. If any of our men.bers attempt

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a hazardous clinb imperiling life,

suggesting a last will, they need
no longer hesitate to designate the Club as a legatee or as a bene.ficiary in any form, because by incorporation it has the legal capacity
to take such testamentary gifts, I wish, however, to express the feeling on which Mr. Scattergood has already laid stress - the Club’s great
appreciation for the efforts of the retiring President in building it
up, especially in putting the library on an established basis and in
providing a fund for its continuance and increase.

May I also refer to

the faithful efforts of the Secretary, on which so much of the prosperity
Oj. the Cluo has depended and with which every member has become impressed,
so that I can really say nothing that would adequately convey our sense
of the value of his long, continuous service.
The motion was unanimously carried.
THE CHAIRMAN:

There is one thing I regret and that is the

fact that we have not had a greater increase in membership.

I hope that

each one of you in returning to your homes from this meeting will bear
in mind the object of bringing new members into the Club.

Furthermore,

the absence of a publication in the last two or three years has been a
matter of extreme regret to me personallyj yet the standard cf our publications is sc high that it has oeen difficult to secure proper matew

rial for an Alpina No. 4.

I trust, however, that members will have the

wants of the Club in mind, and, if they know of anything which will ce
of interest and value in that direction, that they will proffer sugges­
tions, so that before long our fine puolication may be continued.
agreeNow, we are prepared to listen to something rather more
able than this routine business. I believe that Mr. Palmer is going to
show us some views taken on his recent explora.t ions in the Mt. Longstafx
region of the northern Rockies; and I understand also that we are to

1

�Have the pleasure of hearing from
views Ci that mysterious region

Dr. Gilmour who will show
us some
the Cariboo mountains.

reports of MOUNTA INKER Txrr.

Dr. A. J. Gilmour narrated with the aid of
the lantern the
first ascent of Mt. Longstaff (10,500 feet)
in the Northern Canadian
Rockies made in July, 1S16, in company with Professor E.
W. D. Hoiway
and Mr. Howard Palmer,
The route of approach from the Fraser valley
and the discovery of the great terminal ice-fall of the Swift Current
glacier were described.
The speaker th^n outlined the results of a

l«-

fortnight's trip into the Cariboo mountains carried out by Professor
Holway and himself a few weeks later.

Admirable slides depicted the

striking peaks and glaciers cf this great range which they were pro'cS.

ably the first to enter for purposes of mountaineering.
Mr. Howard. Palmer threw on the screen a series of colored
elides depicting the Swift Current glacier, which he had roughly sur­

?

veyed by prismatic compass, and gave particulars of its dimensions and
location.

At the same time, he pointed cut the route up "Mt. Borland"

(10,550 ft. ) in the Whitehorn
party had followed.

range, adjacent to Mt. Robson, which the

The route was new but the mountain had been

ascended by Dr. Collie* s party in 1311 from the other side.

The speaker then described a new ascent cf Mt. Fox (10,570
ft-) in the Selkirks made from Glacier House in one day by himself and
, Swi3s
Dr. George hi. MacKee of New York, accompanied by Christian
guide.

The trip consumed 13 l/3 hours, the distance

covered being 30

miles and the height climbed over 6500 feet.
Butters and Dr. Nichols made
Mr. B. S. Comstock, Professor
A series of the CIuds
bri3f
closed at 5.30 p. mremarks and the meeting

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52
enlargements of mountain scenery was displayed on the walls.
Respectfully submitted,

Secretary.

The .Annual Dinner was held at the Hotel Manhattan
the same evening at 7:30. There were forty-one members
and guests present, The retiring President, Mr. Bryant,
presided and offered a welcome to his successor, a for­
mer President, Professor Charles E. Fay, who made a
brief but Impressive reply, which was warmly greeted.
After the dinner an address was made by Reverend
Charles A. Richmond, D.D., who spoke of the inspiration
to be had from, viewpoints high up, and from the surroundings of Dame Nature in all her moods.

l

A resolution of sympathy with the Alpine Clubs of
\

England and Canada for the difficulties and trials

;

arising from the war, was adopted and ordered spread on
the Minutes.

A copy of the action taken and the resolu-

tion was telegraphed to The Alpine Club, London, and
the Alpine Club of Canada.
Mr. K. G. Chipman of the Geological Survey of Canada
then spoke at some length of his interesting experiences
while in the field with the Canadian Arctic Expedition

of •19.14-15-16.

:

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•S'?

Dr. Frank M. Chapman gave a valuable talk on the
remarkable range of bird life to be found in a compara­

A

tively short distance from the sea in Mexico by ascend­
ing the rapidly rising mountain slopes,

Lantern slides

showing fine views, beautiful birds and maps illuminated
his remarks.
Mr. Albert Ii. MacCarthy made his debut before the

members of the Club by showing exceedingly fine views
of mountain peaks and describing the climbs made by
himself and Mrs. MacCarthy in the Purcell Range in

. 1

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British Columbia during 19^6.
The meeting adjourned with universal expressions
of good wishes for the New Year.
Respectfully Submitted,
L

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54
COPY

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RESOLUTION ADOPTED BY MEMBERS AND GUESTS OF THE
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB AT THE ANNUAL MEETING OF THE
CLUB HELD AT THE HOTEL MANHATTAN, NEW YORK CITY,
ON DECEMBER 30, 1916.
RESOLVED that the following minute, adopted by the unanimous vote
of the members and guests of the American Alpine Club, assembled in the City
of New York on this 30th day of December, 1916, be transmitted to the Secre­
tary of the American Alpine Club with the request that the same be entered
upon the records of the Club and that copies thereof be sent to the Alpine
Club and to the Alpine Club of Canadat
The members and guests of the American Alpine Club, assembled in
the City of New York, while affirming their undivided allegiance to the Gov­
ernment of the United States, desire to place on record their deep sympathy
with the English nation in the mighty struggle for the liberties of mankind
in which it, and its Allies, are now engaged. Although citizens of a neu­
tral nation, we share with the subjects of England those unspeakably great
traditions of freedom, of justice and of lav/, which are the common inheri­
tance from the mother-nation of all of the peoples of the English speaking
world. To a struggle which involves the survival of that inheritance we
cannot, as individuals, remain indifferent. V/e desire to place on record
our deep admiration of the heroism and self-sacrifice shown by England and
its Allies; to express our absolute confidence that such heroism and selfsacrifice insure the ultimate triumph of justice and the continuance of
freedom in the world, and to assure our brethem of The Alpine Club and of
the Alpine Club of Canada of our deep and heartfelt sympathy in this hour
of their suffering and of splendid self-sacrifice in the cause of mankind.
*************

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AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

Annual Report of the Secretary
j

ANNUAL MEETING

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The annual meeting of the Club was held at the Public
Library, New York City, Saturday, December 30, 1916, at
2 P.M., President Henry G. Bryant in the chair.
Fifteen
members were present.
The report of the Treasurer showed a small balance on
hand in the regular fund and $1,025.00 in the Library
Endowment Fund.
This fund is invested by direction of the Council and the
income used to purchase books and pamphlets on moun­
taineering. It is very desirable that this fund be increased
by donations.
The Secretary reported that there had been no increase
in memberships; that two members had died; Dr. J. William
White, of Philadelphia, and Mr. Samuel H. Prouty, of Port­
land, Oregon.
Deep regret was expressed at the loss of
these active members and a memorial ordered prepared.
The honorary membership remains the same.
The total
membership is now 93 with 81 active and 1 2 honorary
members.
The Librarian reported that the books of the Club had
been placed in custody of the New York Public Library
where they are available to members. That donations had
increased the collection and that he hoped others would be
added by gifts from members and friends, A collection of
photographs has been started and adequate provision made
for the care of it. Members having fine mountain pictu res
are urged to add them to the collection which is cared for
at the Public Library of New York City.
The President called attention to the fact that the Club,
since incorporation, may legally accept donations and gifts
of any kind that may be made.

i

,

�Mr. Jeffers reported for the Bureau of Associated Moun­
taineering Clubs, and stated that the membership includes 1 5
clubs and societies, representing individual members to the
number of 10,000.
The Nominating Committee reported the following nomi­
nations for officers:
For President: Prof. Charles E. Fay, of Boston.
Vice-Presidents: Lewis L. Delafield, of New York.
William E. Colby, of San Francisco.
Treasurer: Allston Burr, of Boston.
Secretary: Robert H. Chapman, of Washington, D. C.
Councilors: Hon. Harrington Putnam, of Brooklyn.
Mr. Henry G. Bryant, of Philadelphia.
Mr. Howard Palmer, of New London.
Mr. Albert H. MacCarthy, of New York and
British Columbia.
These nominees were all duly elected.
Resolutions of appreciation and thanks to the retiring
President and Secretary were feelingly adopted.
The chairman called attention to the desirability of
increasing the membership, but strictly maintaining the par­
ticular standards of eligibility.
Dr. A. J. Gilmour then narrated the first ascent of Ml.
LongstafF (10,500 feet) in the northern Canadian Rockies.
The party included Prof. E. W. D. Holway and Mr. Howard
Palmer.
The route of approach from the Fraser Valley
and the discovery of the great terminal ice fall of the Swift
Current Glacier was described. The speaker then outlined
the results of a fortnight’s trip in the Cariboo Mountains,
British Columbia, carried out by Professor Holway and
himself a little later.
Lantern slides were used on both
subjects.
Mr. Palmer described the Swift Current Glacier, its extent
and a reconnaissance survey by him, using very fine lantern
slides on this subject and to illustrate a new route taken
in ascending Mt. Dorland (10,550 feet) in the Whitehorn
Range near Mt. Robson. The mountain had been ascended
by Dr. Collie and party in 1911. Mr. Palmer then described
an ascent by a new route of Mt. Fox (10,570 feet) in the
The climb was made
Selkirk Range, from Glacier House.
in a day
191/2 hours
covering 20 miles and climbing
6,500 feet.
Dr. George M. MacKee, of New York, and
Christian Hasler, Swiss guide, climbed with the speaker.
The meeting closed with brief remarks by Mr. B. S.
Comstock, Professor Butters and Dr. Nichols.

from viewpoints high up and from the surroundings of
-Dame Nature in all her moods.
A resolution of sympathy with the Alpine Clubs of
England and Canada, for the difficulties and trials arising
from the war, was adopted and ordered spread on the
minutes.
A copy of the action taken and the resolution
was telegraphed to the Alpine Club of London and the
Canadian Alpin/Club.
Mr. K. G. Chipman, of the Geological SurveW'of Canada,
then spoke at some length of his interesting experiences
while in the field with the Canadian Arctic Expedition

(1914-15-16).
Dr. Frank M. Chapman gave a valuable talk on the won­
derful range of bird life to be found in a comparatively
short distance from the sea level in Mexico by ascending
the rapidly-rising mountain slopes.
Lantern slides, show­
ing fine views, beautiful birds and maps illuminated his
remarks.
Mr. Albert H. MacCarthy made his debut as a member
of the Club by showing exceedingly fine views of mountain
peaks and describing climbs made during 1916 in the Pur­
cell Range in British Columbia.
The meeting adjourned with universal expressions of
good wishes for the New Year.

SPECIAL NOTICE
Each member is urged to send to the Secretary a list of
any climbs, journeys or explorations made, but not included
in the last Club book, published in 1914, and to notify him
of any change of address.

*

¥

*

*

*

¥

¥

¥

¥

On application to the Secretary he will furnish members
with small “Record Slips” to be filled in and left on moun­
tain peaks ascended. The slips should be enclosed in some
kind of waterproof receptacle.
¥

¥

¥

¥

¥

Members are urged to nominate new members after giv­
ing careful consideration to the required qualifications,
which are stated in circular herewith.
ROBERT H. CHAPMAN, Secretary

ANNUAL DINNER
The annual dinner was held at the Hotel Manhattan in
There were forty-one members and
the evening at 7.30.
guests present.
The retiring President, Mr. Bryant, pre­
sided and offered words of welcome to his successor, a
former President, Prof. Charles E. Fay, who made a brief
but impressive reply, which was warmly greeted.
After
the dinner an address was made by Rev. Charles A.
Richmond, D.D., who spoke of the inspiration to be had

*

Any member planning to attend the meeting of the
National Educational Association to be held in Portland,
Oregon, July 7th to 14th, next, will please notify the Sec­
retary as soon as possible.

2029 Q Street Northwest
Washington, D. C.
MARCH,

1917.

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MEMORANDUM of the proceedings of

THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

j AT ITS ANNUAL MEETING HELD IN BOSTON, MASS. DECEMBER 29,
1S17,AT 8:45 P.M.

There were present Messrs.Bent, Burr, Fay, Jeffers,
Palmer,
Putnam, Weed and Whipple; eight.
President Charles E.Fay in the chair.

Mr.Palmer was elected Secretary pro-tem.
As the report of the last meeting, the secret*™
, * ,,
circular notice sent to the membership etrly in the yea? by Major Chapmn
This was approved with the exception of the name of Mr.Prouty which
should be Harley H.Prouty instead of Samuel H.Prouty. -5e&lt;? o.51zre
The secretary read the memoranda forwarded by Major Chapman
and it was voted that these oe accepted as the secretary1 s report for
the year and entered in the records of the Club. 5r,_
co-foii^n^
Mr.Jeffers moved that a copy of the small slip for use in
recording the ascent of mountains be sent to each active member of the
Club. Carried.
It was voted to refer the matter of obituary notices with
relation to Mr.Prouty and Dr.J.William White, to the Council, so that
when prepared they might be published in "Alpina" in Appalachia.
The Treasurer's report was read and accepted,
balance of $258.64.

It showed an .available

Mr.Palmer, Chairman of the Publications Committee, reported
the stock of the Club publications on storage with the Williams &amp;
ft»lkins Company , Greenmount Ave. Baltimore. President Fay remarked
that he had two large wooden cases in his cellar containing unsold copies
E1 Alpina" No.l, one of which had never been opened; that Mr.George
Philadelphia also had in his possession a large additional number
of the first issue of "Alpina". It was voted to refer to the Council
ofe«AieStion of the disposition of this large stock of the three issues
Perhaps when more settled conditions
J®
^
Pres?H*UJe the8e Publications gratis to members of mountaineeri:*
Fay stated that as far as he was concerned, the cases could
in in his cellar indefinitely, without inconveniencing hi .
The next matter discussed was the election of a new Treasurer.

�-3The president felt sure that it was the sense of the Club that Mr.Burr
should remain in oft ice, but in view of his long service it did not seem
proper to press him to remain another year. Judge Putnam moved that
the Club place on record its sense of the long and faithful service of
Mr.Burr and its regret at his surrendering the office. This was
unanimously carried. ^It was decided to defer the election of a
successor until Mr.H. G.Bryant, who was detained by the storm, could
arrive.
It was voted that the President of the Club write a letter of
thanks to Mr.Ralph Burton for his kindness in performing the duties of
secretary in the enforced absence of Mai or Chapman.
The gift by Mr.F.W.Freeborn of an album of his mountain views
was announced by the president, and Judge Putnam moved that an express­
ion of the thanks of the Club be sent by Professor Fay to the donor.
The Club greatly appreciated the careful record that the photographs
supplied for the future use of mountaineers visiting those districts.
Mr.Jeffers read the Librarian's report, which is hereto annexed.
It was resolved that $50. should be paid to the New York Public
Library, February 1,1918, as the first payment of income from the
Library Fund of the Club.
It was resolved that in view of the satisfactory report of
the work of the Bureau of Mountaineering Clubs, we approve its activi­
ties and instruct the treasurer to contribute a payment of $10. annually
as a membership fee in the Bureau, until further notice.
It was decided that the precedent of former years should be
followed in regard to paying from the Club treasury the incidental
expenses of the Annual Meeting and Dinner, such as the expense for the
lantern, dinner fees of honorary guest3, etc. etc.
In response to the report that members in the west still feel
uncertainty as regards qualifications for membership in the Cluo,
President Fay expressed the opinion that we should be pretty careful
in accepting members from clubs who have done their climbing almost
entirely on western mountains of this country. The very fact tnat
parties of from forty to sixty people made these ascents was sufiicient
commentary on their character.
Professor Fay, seconded by Judge Putnam, strongly urged upon
Mr.Palmer the preparation of manuscript dealing with tne Selkirks,
for publication as "Alpina" No.4, in the course of a year or two wnen tne
treasury of the Club would warrant the undertaxing.
u 3
u '
felt that after Number Four appeared, it should be bound witn the firsp
three issues into a substantial volume which would possess a much gr^at^r
» value and desirability than the separate monographs.
py'&amp;p&amp;r&amp;c/
Co 01 n.&lt;C l /
President Fay read a resolution^which he proposed to suomit
&amp;tt the Annual Pintley* for transmittal to the French and Italian Alpine
Clubs. A copy is hereto annexed.

�57

-3.
;

Th5 me!*ing adjourned at 4:30 to meet 4^woro thp Am, ,
Dinner, for the purpose of electing a Treasure?!
the Annual

Mr.Leroy
showing
the surf breaking on the Massachusetts
coast and views of slides
A
the
Grand
Canyon and Yellowstone Park,
routes of tne explorers and surveyors.
The motion-pictures which had been arranged for this session
were unavoidably postponed owing to the severe weather conditions
preventing the arrival of the films.

THE ANNUAL DINNER.

The Annual Dinner of the Club was held in the Copley-Plaza
Hotel at 7:00 P.M. the same evening. Twenty-nine members and guests
were in attendance, in addition to Rear Admiral Robert E.Peary,
Mr.Donald McMillan, and Sig.Vitferio Orlandini of the Italian Military
Mission to the United States.
The nomination of m^.Benjamin F.Seaver of Brooklyn, N.Y. to fill
the office of Treasurer, was made, and he was unanimously elected there­
to.
The Secretary Pro-Tern read a telegram of greeting from tne Alpine
Club of Canada, and several letters of regret at their inability to be
present from different members of the Club including Gen.A,W.Greeley,
Rev.Harry P.Nichols, kir.John Henry Scattergood and Major Robert H.
Chapman.
Afteraddress by Rear Admiral Peary upon the importance
a? 8JSnfn0?S“Sndiy*"Se?a!d«Ude-“ise*?!’de’Uver%d a
fascinating lecture descriptive of his three years

I

sojourn in the

were graphically narrated, including the finding of r^ icq o
•
expeditions of the f4Qs. On one occasion, one hundred miles was
covered by dog-sledge in one day, thus refuting certain critics of t
speed of recent Polar travelers*
In closing, the president called upon Mr.Henry G.Bryant for a

�58
-4“

visit to Elsmere LandyinM1894y5henbine5ommandUofdt’t0 £iS’ thS first&gt;
expedition. Mr.McMillan had also visited Elsmere Land!^7 rellef
participation in the present^orld^onflic^and^h161^l0n t0 Italy' s
United States as an ally of his countrv
fntrance of the
of the Alpini troops, who were trained^n mountaineer1*0 th® SUp6rb W°rk
resolution communicating the greetiSf of%hf
r5ad a
to the Italian and French ClufiJ! Sfe LSlutSS
great interest and the enthusiastic approval of
receiv3d with
manifested by a rising vote. A copy of the refolutiS^whiSh^d^en
annexed!17 COnsidered at the annual meeting in the afternoon, is hereto
Following the passage of this resolution. Judge Putnam
introduced a resolution of condolence directed to £r.&amp; Mrs.Charles
D.Walcott of Washington, in relation to the loss of Mr.B.S. Walcott
from an aeroplane on the Western Front in France, which was duly passed.
(Judge Putnam will furnish a copy of this resolution to Mr.Chapman.)

&gt;

�THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
YEAR

191?

Receipts

By Balance Jan. 1, 1917.
Alpina Americana No.I
fl

IT

IT

ti

it

n

1058.64
5.35
3.20
2.20
10.00
25.00
315.10
85 .00
3.90

II

III .
Dues 1915 ....................
I!
1916....................
II
1817....................
Library Endowment Fund
Interest on balances.

1507.29

Disbursements
15.22
85.28
10.00
3.15
25.00

To Treasurer's Expense

*

Secretary's
"
....................................
Bureau of Mountaineering............................
Insurance ........................................................
Appalachian Mountain Club Vol.XIV,No.2.
Library Endowment Fund:
City of Quebec 5$ bond 2/1/37 . . . .
Provident Institution for Savings . .

970.00
115.00

1085.00

1223.65
283.64

Balance .

Jan.1,1918:
Balance General Account as above:
Library Endowment Fund income from
City of Quebec bond ....
General Fund balance......................................
Provident Inst'n for Savings,

25.00
258.64

Library Endowment Fund a/c. .....
Suffolk Savings Bank, Reserve Fund a/c. ^
n
n
n
Edward Whymper Fund a/c . .

283.64
115.91
732.44
253.03

1385.02

�MEMORANDUM REPORT OP THE SECRETARY,

ft,

fi

cc/ for /!novo/ /fee//*

&lt;Jrc &amp;

Invitations have been received to take part in
various meetings from the following:P
Alpine Club of Canada
The Sierra Club,

The Mazamas,
American Association for the Advancement
of Science.
Five hundred of the ^Record Slips" suggested by

Mr. Jeffers at the I9I6 meeting have been printed" and

are ready for distribution to members. No requests
have been made for them in '‘917.

Copies of the several resolutions made and receiv­
ed are sent herewith.
Mrs. Laurie 3. Frazeur, Secretary of the Geograph­
ic Society of Chicago, has been elected to membership
One resignation, that of Mr. II. L. Bridgman, has
been received.
The Secretary (Major Chapman) has begun the prepar
a tion of the Club Book for I9I7 and hopes it will be
ready for distribution ere many weeks. Will members
please communicate all data not sent heretofore, to
the Secretary at once.

&gt;

Alpina Americana:
The following have been sold and funds transmitted to
the T reasurer:2 copies each of Nos.1,2.&amp; 3. |6.60
4.10
1 copy No. 1.
7.70
1 copy of No.3 was sent free at the request of
the Librian of Congress, Washington, D.C.
1 copy each of Nos.1,2 and 3 were presented to
H.
Ralph Burton as an apprbciationof his courtesy
Mr.
in assisting the Secretary during his absence on duty
for the War Department.
The membership remains the same as at the last
Annual Meeting:
Honorary(no change) 12.
Active:
si.
Elected 1,
69
Resigned 1,
tld.for
membership but have
Several names have sugges
not been put before the Board.
} Pf

rJ

�m
REPORT OF THE LIBRARIAN.
the new books on mountaineering subjects
.. ^ All
,
that have appeared during the year have beeb purchaased by the New York Public Library and added
to the collection. As Secretary of the Bureau of
Associated Mountaineering Clubs I have secured
views of mountain scenery from western railroads
and from member clubs so that the collection of
pictures now numbers about 450. views.
During 19^7 the Bureau has sent books on
mountaineering and exploration, amounting to $44.20
free to each of the clubs belonging to the associa­
tion.

Starting with nine clubs in May I9I6, the Asso­
ciation now numbers twenty-two clubs and societies,
having an individual membership of over twenty
thousand. The membership is as follows-American Alpine Club
American Civic Association, Washington, D.C.
American Museum -of Natural History, uew York
Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston and New York
British Columbia Mountaineering Club, Vancouver
Colorado Mountain Club, Denver
Explorers Club, New York
Field and Forest Club, Boston
Fresh Air Club, New York
Geographic Society of Chicago
Geographical Society of Philadelphia
Green Mountain Club, Rutland. Vermont
Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, Honolulu
Klahhane Club, Port Angeles, Wash.
Mazamas, Portland, Oregon
Mountaineers, Seattle and Tacoma^
National Association of Auduoon Societies,
Prairie Club, Chicago
Rocky Mountain Climbers Club, Boulder,Colo.
Sage Brush and Pine Club, Yakima, tv ash.
Sierra Club, San Francisco and Los Angeles
United States National Park Service, Wash­
ington, D. C.
LeRoy Jeffers,
Librarian.

1

�62

i
II

RESOLUTION adopted at the annual DINNER of
THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
DECEMBER 29TH,1917"
FOR TRANSMITTAL TO THE FRENCH AND ITALIAN
'
ALPINE CLUBS.

One year ago, our country still at peace, the American
Alpine Club sent a message of greeting, sympathy and encouragement
to the members of the English and Canadian Alpine Clubs, bound to us
by ties of common descent and language.
To-day, assembled again at our annual meeting, our nation
no longer neutral in fact or in sympathy, recognizing a bond more
close than that of race and tongue, we desire not merely to reaffirm
the sentiments there expressed, but to put upon record and transmit
to the other mountaineering societies of the nations with us allied,
and in particular to the Club Alpin Francais and the Club Alpin
I

Italiano, an assurance of our profound appreciation of the splendid
contributions they have made and still are making to the great endeavor
that has united the efforts of "four fifths of the civilized world."
As fellow Alpinists we are proud of their record of achievement not merely in the blood-stained trench but on the icy mountain
barrier where Alpinism has demonstrated its value in preparing armies
for action above the snow-line,
tute their roll of honor.

With them we mourn the dead who consti-

We sympathize in their national trials and

to this fraternal greeting would join the assurance, for their encouragement, were it needed, of our unshaken conviction of the successful
issue of the cause of civilization and humanity as opposed to barbarism
masquerading as "Kultur" and savagery hitherto unpracticed in modern
wars.

Our hearts are with you, our hands are joined with yours in a

*

grasp more fraternal than ever before.

�At the Annual Meeting of the
American Alpine Club, held at Boston

on December

29 th &gt; 1917, (the following
Resolution was unanimously
adopted:
RE SOL'/ED, that the members of this Club
express their sincere condolences t o ivl r • an d M r s •

|

Charles D. Y/alcott of Washington, at the report
that their son, Benjamin Stuart Walcott, has fallen
in an unequal combat as a. member of the American
Aviation Corps in France, although he had gallantly
upheld the honor and traditions of his country.
RESOLVED, that the Secretary be directed
to transmit a copy of this resolution to Mr. and Mrs.
Walcott.
)

►

�UA
A meeting _of_ the Council of the American Aline Club
!

was held at ho. 20 Exchange Place, New York City, on
Monday, December 30th, 1918

at 12:30 o’clock, pursuant

to notice.

There were present:
Professor Charles E. Fay,
President in the Chair.

!

Hon. Harrington Putnam, and
Messers. Henry G-. Bryant,
B. F. Seaver,
Howard Palmer,
Lewis L. Delafie'ld.
Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, the Librarian of the Club, was
also present by invitation.
In the absence of the Secretary, Major Robert H.
Chapman, who was detained by illness in Washing ton, IJr.
Delafield was designated to act as Secretary of the

meeting.
Upon motion of Judge Putnam, it was unanimously resolved that, In preparing the new Year Book of the
Club, mention be made of those members who had served
the Army or the Navy, or
the United States, either in
or
of the Allied G-overnments,
in
the
service
of
any
or
rendered public service in connection
who had o therwi se
;
i

i

with the war.
his report as
Mr. Seaver ^resented
follows:
Club. Such report was as

Treasurer of the

�(o

:

American Alpine Club
tn A°-S°unJ._»lth_BeiU^_f. Seavor. Treasurer
GENERAL^ACCOUNT
Beceipts
1918
Jan* 1,
21,
Jan.21 to
Dec. 28
Feb. 2,
Apr. 9,
23,
23,
Aug.15,
Nov.30,

By Balance from 1917
By dues for 1917
By dues for 1918 - 57 members

283.64
5.00
285.00

By City of Quebec Coupons transferred
to Library Endowment Fund
25.00
380 stamped envelopes sold
8.20
Balance from Suffo'Ld Savings Bank
transferred to Reserve Fund
747.09
Balance from Sullford Savings Bank
transferred to Whymper Fund
258.08
Alpina Americana Sales
6.56
Alpina Americana Sales
2.23
_8a79„
1,620.80
Expenditures

/VS

i:

Jan.21,
Feb. 8,
8,
8,
27,
Mar.21,
21,
May

2,

June26,
26,
Aug.15,
o

15'

Sept.19,
I

20,
Dec.28,

To Dinner Expenditures
36.00
Annual Membership dues Associated
Mountaineering Clubs of America
10.00
Library Endowment Fund - Annual pay­
ment to N. Y. Public Library
50.00
To Treasurer’s expenses - bill heads
5.25
and request envelopes
Alpina American storage and postage
2.33
Williams &amp; Wilkins Co.
Printing Annual Report and nomination
17.00
notices - Roberts Co.
Jas. Stuart Lowery Co. - fire insurance
3.47
premium
Reserve Fund - invested in U.S. 3rd
700.00
Liberty Loan Coupon Bonds
Whymper Fund - invested in U.S. 3rd
250.00
Liberty Loan Coupon Bonds
Reserve Fund deposit in Brooklyn
47.09
Savings Bank
Whymper Fund deposit in Brooklyn
8.08
Savings Bank
McLanahan
&amp;
Secretary’s expenses Burton - typewriting, postage, etc. 32.27
5.50
Printing notices for membership
Alpina Americana storage - Williams
2.00
and Wilkins Co.
v
Appalachian Mountain Club Vol.^iv
25.00
„
No. 3
3.73 1,197.72
Treasurer’s Expenses -^postage
— ---423.08
(3 cij.
ZK «3r. f sj" ^ £

'P

�)

Jan. 1 Apr. 17 Sept.18 Nov. 27 Dec. 31 -

By Balance
By interest at Suffolk Savings Bank
By coupons 3rd Liberty Loan
By Life Membership Henry S. Hall, Jr.
Balance

732.44
14.65
10.43
J50.00_
807.52

Invested as follows:
3rd U.S. Liberty Loan Coupon Bonds
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
In Franklin Trust Co.

700.00
97.09
10.45
807.52

Edward Whymper Fund
Jan. 1 Apr. 17 Sept.18 Dec. 31 -

By Balance
Interest at Suffolk Savings Bank
Coupons 3rd Liberty Loan
Balance

253.03
5.05
__3.72__
261.80

Invested as follows:
May 2 June 26 Sept.18 -

3rd U.S. Liberty Loan Coupon Bonds
Deposited in Brooklyn Savings Bank
"The American Apine Club - Edward
Whymper Fund"
Deposited in Franklin Trust Co.

250.00

8.08
_ 3*72
261.80

Library Endowment Fund
'Receipts
Jan. l
Feb. 8

-

Jan. 15 Oct. 16 Feb. 8

1,085.91
By Balance
By Coupons - City of Quebec bond
50.00
July 1917 - Feb. 1918
.
2.30
By Interest Provident Inst* for Savings
By Coupons - City of Quebec bond
25.00
deposited in Franklin Trust Co.
Expenditures
To Payment to New York Public Library

1,163.21
50.00
1,113.21

Invested as follows:
City of Quebec 5% Coupon bond par 1000.
J
at cost
Deposited at Brooklyn s^v^g®^^y
The American Alpine Club Library
Endowment Fund
_
Deposit at Franklin Trust Co.

1

970.00
118.21
25.00
1,113.21

�9

Upon motion, duly seconded, such report was received
and ordered on file, and the President was authorized to appoint
an Auditing Committee.
Thereupon, the President appointed Judge Putnam as
such Committee*

Upon motion, it was resolved that a sum not exceeding
$100* be appropriated to cover the expense of printing the forthcoming Year Book of the Club.
The President expressed the hope that a new issue of

i

Alpina Americana might be prepared during the year 1919, and that
Mr* Howard Palmer would undertake to prepare such issue, with the
Selkirks as his subject.
Mr* Jeffers reported informally about additions to the
t/i•T'
■ xV

library during the year.

Upon motion of Judge Putnam, it was directed that his
report to approved, and that the action of the xresident and
Librarian, in purchasing certain Sella photographs.be approved.
Upon motion of Mr. Bryant, the President was authorized
to appoint a Committee to consider the subject of increasing the ^
membership of the Club, and to take appropriate steps to that end.
Mr. iDelafield reported, for a Committee composed of
Messrs. Seaver, Bridgman and himself, appointed by the President to
consider the subject of holding the usual annual meeting and dinner,
that, upon canvassing the situation, it was found that owing to the
fact that many of the members were scattered upon the public service

and that others were ill, it would not be practicable to

secure the attendance of any considerable proportion of the total
membership at a meetins or dinner to be held either in December, 1918,

�C3E
5

or January, 1919.

He further reported that the Committee ad­

vised that no attempt be made to hold a formal meeting, except in

■

so far as a meeting might be required by the laws of the State of
Pennsylvania, e,nd that it be referred back to the Committee to con­
sider whether it might be practicable to hold a dinner sometime
during the spring of 1919.
Upon motion, Messrs. Bryant and Delafield were ap­
pointed as a Committee to take such steps, v/ith respect to holding
an annual meeting, as might be required by the laws of Pennsyl­
vania.
The meeting then adjourned.
,

Lewis L. Uelafield,
Secretary, pro tern.
The President appointed a committee on membership as follows:
MaJ. Robert H. Chapman, Chairman, and Messers. Howard Palmer
and LeRoy Jeffers.
I

j

&gt;

�C3F
A ineet&amp;np; of the Board
Alpine Club was held at No.

of directors of the American

20.

Exchange Place, New York City,
on Saturday, March 29, 1919, at 2
o'clock, pursuant to notice.
There were present:
Professor Charles E. Fay,
President in the chair.
Hon. Harrington Putnam and
Messers. Lewis L. Delafield,
Howard Palmer,
B. F. Beaver,
R. H. Chapman, Secretary.

(6)

Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, Librarian of the Club
was present by invitation.
;

lhe minutes 01 the last meeting of the Board were
read and approved,.
The Secretary read a brief memorandum report which
was approved. (The report is appended.)
The names of the following candidates for member­
ship were approved:
Mr. Francis P. Farquhar, San Francisco,
Mr . Franc o i s E. Mat the s, Washing ton, D . C . ,
Professor E. S. Meany, Seattle, Wash.,
Mr. Walter Dwight Wilcox, Washington, D. C.
A number of names wore suggested for the consider­
ation of the Board, these were referred to the Committee on
Membership for recommendation to the Board.

The president

rented

to draw appropriate resolutions up
Roosevelt and Professor Pickering
A motion to authoriseto_350
tion, to increase the number^ook to $300.00 was
and the appropriation ior prm i o
carried, unanimously.
Mr. Delafield, took
At 3: pm the Vice-President,
President
who was unable to remthe Chair at the request ol the
ain at the meeting.
The Treasurer, Mr. Seaver, reported the renewal of
the insurance on the copies of Alpina Americana in storage at
Philadelphia. (Williams &amp; Wilkins). The number of copies in
storage is reported to be
29 Of No.1..
32 of No.2.
686 of No.3•

�2.

fill the vacancy causeefby
Hcruber to
discussed, the subject was Dost-nor&lt;v! ?iv,"'°l0n®i ^gfevelt was
next annual meeting.
1 " ' 1
consideration at the
The Congress of Alpinists to he held at Monaco in
May 1920 was Drought to the attention of the meeting.
After some discussion it was decided that the ques­
tion of the appointment of delegates from the American Alpine
Club should be considered at the next annual meeting.
The Secretary was directed to write Mr. Montagnier,
replying to his suggestion that literature re the Congress be
distributed by the Secretary of the Club, that Mr. LeRoy
Jeffers, Secretary of the Associated Mountaineering Clubs of
North America, had signified his willingness to undertake a
reasonable amount of this work.
A motion that copies of Alpina Anericana Nos.1,2
and 3 be presented to new members upon election was carried.
The advisability of presenting to members of the Club
the G-eographical Review, published by the American geographical
Society, was referred to a committee to consist ol Messers.^
Henry G-. Bryant and B. F. So aver. This matter came eel ore the
meeting in a letter from Mr. Bryant.
At 4:20 the meeting adjourned.

" Secretary.
:

i

�r

Summary Report of the Secretary.
r. -

f\cad /tfc?rc/i X*f, /*f

War Department and has-been

J

v/^s3?in£ton on duty for the

Club by those duties and ill
in hifl ««* for the
necessary to keep up to date
MLR f“ ““
very greatly assisted in Club work bi Mr u rt
2lo.ne v/as
Washington. Mr. Burton has exnT&gt;hoao/v,-o‘.H'Ra^n Buroon of
letter that he received from Prestl-V1
aPPPSC1f't';LO-i of the
assistance.
President lay thanking him for his
torv^as^bl^J^Stt011!156^-29 1917’ at Boston&gt; which the fecre
aryJ aS Unf“Jle b ahendJ the following items are reported:

I

Two members have died, Colonel Theodore Roosevelt on Jan.6
1919 and Professor Edward C.Pickering, on Feb 3 1919
(Resolutions are suggested)
New members have been elected:
Dr. J. onroe Thorington, Philadelphia, May 9 I9I8,
Lieut. Henry S. Hall, Boston, October 2G l9l8,(Life Member),
Dr. George Miller McKee, New York 9ctober 26 I9I8,
The changes in membership since the book of I9I4 are:

1914

Active
Honorary

74
V2
86

Sleeted to membership
Died Honorary
1
Active
6
increase
Total at date

16

1

_2
95

The names of those elected and died(since 1)14) are*.
Elected; Bond, Bade, Colby, Frazeur, Gilmore Hall, Jobe,
MacCarthy, MacCarthy, McKee, Kettleton, Parsons, Prouty,
Rogers, Thorington, and Wood (11 men and 5 women).
Died;

Cross, Little, Muir, White, Prouty, Pickering,and
Roosevelt.

Alpina:
The secretary has no record of sales since one last#
report.
Publications (Alpina)
rep0rts that nothing has
The chairman, Mr.Paimei , i epu
been done owing to War conditions.
Jeffers and Fay)

Associated Mountaineering Clubf£
The Secretary, Hr. jeiioib,
report.
Committee on Increasing ilembeiobiP•

no detailed

the chairman,

Thio committee has made no^repo.^ the flle:
Mr. Chapman, finds tne ioi * o lQwa state College, Ames,
Prof.L.H.Pammel, Dept-.
Nasa, Camarines, P.I.,
RichbdMS;ye?f 200r'Summit Street ’ Boston, Mass.

�!

C*1
Director s Meeting.
New Yor£eGity; °ol
¥

lSlfa?°3?°rf^8* ^

There were present:
Vice-President Delafield, in the Chair,
Hon. Harrington Putnam ar

and Messers.
Seaver, MacCarthy and Chapman.(Secretary)
The meeting was called to order at 3:10 P.M.
A letter from President Fay, in which he regretted his inability to be present, was read.
The Secretary called attention to the correspondence with
His Excellency the Belgia.n Ambassador upon the subject of the nom­
ination to Honorary Membership of His Majesty the King of the
Belgians, the acceptance by His Majesty was received with much
gratification. The Secretary was instructed to have the notice of
election made out for the signatures of the President and the
Secretary of the Club and to have a. copy of the year-book prepared
with special binding, for transmittal to the King.
Baron G-abet, President of the Club Alpin Francais, was duly
elected to Honorary Membership.

i'

I

:

I

Messers. Walter L. Huber, Berkeley, Calif.; Edmond S. Meany,
Seattle, Wash.; George H. Harvey,Jr., Denver, Colo.; Arthur0•
Tate, Stamford, Conn.; Allen Carpe, New Yor^c City;and Joseph Cook^Smith, Champery, Switzerland, were approved for
members,
and the Secretary instructed to submit their nam
^embers
The following, recommended by the Committee or
'
’
were provisionally approved for Active i.emotr^mp.
_
Brig.Gen. William Mitchell, Aviation Corps, hainfieid N.J.;
Messers. Val A. ?ynn, St.Louis, Mo• c •
Vincent' :Jr., Greenwich,
Donald MacMillan, Freeport, Maine; _reor6
’vi.VI. Foster,
Conn.; Rev. W. B. Greene, Philadelphia Pa. Lt .Col
^
Victoria, B.C. and Mrs. George E. Vincent, Green*1 »

Tt ,rAnnual Meeting and Dinner was discussed by all Present.
was Indicated that the members resident in Philadelphia are
willing to have the meeting and dinner take place in New York
this year. The dates of Saturday January 3 and Saturday,January
10 were suggested.
f +&gt;iese dates was left
On motion of Judge Putnam the choice of tnes
open until President Fay could oe coi &amp; e ’ ere appointed a
Messers. Seaver, MacCarthy and Chapman
Dinner Committee.
who was present
Mr. LeRoy Jeffers the Librarian of
^ &amp;the Club,
at
the New York
ro om
by invitation, offered the fncili
Public Library for the Annual u 1 g°; eai.erg for the afternoon
The following were suggested c.s sy
and evening sessions;
MacCarthy .and Jeffers; the suojecu
Fynn, MacMillan, Palmer
was referred to the Dinner Committee.

�2

L

4?J

The Secretary spoke of • h
from the Canadian Government “to
t?,of “ station
in the Jasper Pari, alberta, i„ j°“ or iu^ste°f1^2of the Club
The receipt
of Advancement
a letter fromof thp
Association
for the
\tary of the American
hold it s Annual Meeting with the «a? 6?°+. lnviting the Club to
Mo•, between the dates of December Pa
at Saint L°uis,
was noticed by the Secretary and
l",. ? an^ January 3 1920,
this could not be done.
"l"D directed oo reply that
The desirability of electing additional Honorary Members
considered
and the names of Dr. Walcott and Mr. Wheeler v;ere
was
suggested.
On motion of Judge Putnam the subject v&lt;as left as Unfinished
Business to be taken up at the next meeting of the Board.
At 5:30 the meeting adjourned.

!

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�€2K

!

MINUTES OF MEETING OF BOARD OF DIRECTORS
OF THE
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
HELD JANUARY 3RD,
IN THE TRUSTEES’ ROOM OF THE NEW 1930,
YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY.

The meeting was called to order by President Fay at
12:10 P. M. There were present, besides the Chairman, VicePresident Delafield; Secretary, R. H. Chapman; Treasurer, B.
F. Seavsr and Councilors Putnam, Bryant, McCarthy and Palmer,
(8). Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, Librarian of the Club, was present
by invitation.
The Secretary read the minutes of the last meeting
of the Board, which were approved. Announcement was made
of the election to honorary membership of King Albert of
Belgium and Baron Gabet, President of the French Alpine
Club. A letter of acceptance from Baron Gabet was read,
together with a telegram from the Belgian Ambassador commanicating the king’s acceptance of the honor with great pleas­
ure, and transmitting his best wishes for the prosperity of
our organization. It was voted that a committee consisting of
Messrs, Delafield, Putnam and Bryant prepare a resolution
of greeting to be forwarded to King Albert.
A report of th3 membership wa3 read by the Secretary.
It showed a present total of 110, consisting of 97 active
members and 13 honorary members, the largest in the history
of the Club. A general discussion followed with regard to
additional honorary members, and the names of Dr. A, P. Cole­
man, an Ex-President of the Alpine Club of Canada, ana or
Dr. Charles D. Walcott, Secretary of the Smitnsonian Institu­
tion, were proposed. Upon the question being put to t e
meeting, the vote was unanimous on the part of those present,
that they should be elected to honorary membership, and the
Secretary was directed to report tnis actio.
. J5
Vice-President, Mr. William E. Co^by, for his decision. \
The election of the ten candidates, whose names follow,
was ratified by the Board:

i:

. k

Allen Carpe, 331 We3t 83na St., New York.
Georsrs Hobart Harvey, Denver, Colo.
Edmund S. Meany, Seattle, Wash.
Donald B. MacMillan, Freeport, Maine.
Charles B. Eddy, Plainfield, N# J.
Joseph Cooke Smith, Valais, Switzerland.
Tieut Col* W. W. Foster, Victoria, B. C.
live George E. Vincent, Greenwich, Ct.
sl, ,
Mrs#
, . +he election of two above Honor' (Mr Colby subsequently conbente
t
under the By-Laws)
ary Members and such election became eiiee
ILX

�C?L
Americana" bound for^aron0^?^-}!51
3°Plss of "Alpina
or ^ron Gab3t and King Albert, was approved.
Congress t/l.?J?S.Ji82USvion in relation to delegates to the
to thP annual
of the ClSbt1

, was /oted that it be recommended
ting that tnsN De appointed official delegates

.
. The Secretary read letters from Mr. J. B. Harkin,
Commissioner oi Dominion Parks, in relation to the sugp'ested
visit. oy a number of the members of the Alpine Club to the
Tonquin valley of Jasper Park in the Summer of 1930. Person­
ally, he was very anxious that arrangements should be made;
but, owing to the economies necessary in expending Government
funds, he thought they would not be in a position to finance
the trail ’work needed to facilitate the camp and suggested that
the plan be deferred until 1931. A cordial letter from Col.
S. Maynard Rogers, Superintendent of Jasper Park, was read,
promising necessary facilities and every assistance in his
power to any members who might visit the Park in 1930.
The Secretary's suggestion for inserting leaflets in
the Club handbook containing additional names and information,
was approved, No new edition of the book is called for at the
present time.
&gt;

The Secretary reported that the supply of "Alpina
Americana" No* 1 on storage with the Williams &amp; Wilkins Co * &gt;
Greenmount Ave., Baltimore, was nearly exhausted, and it was
voted that all copies in the hands of Mr. George Vaux, Jr. of
Philadelphia and those in the hands of President Fay, be shipped
to them.
A new form of the official notice of election to
active membership was presented to the meeting ana approve!.
It was voted that resolutions of greeting be sent to
each of our new honorary members.

Librarian.
Adjourned at 1:15 P* M.
Respectfully submitted,

I

Secretary, ad interim

�Ri

MINUTES
OF THE ANNUAL MEETING
of
THE AMERIC nN ALP IIIE CLUB
held at the Public Library in
New York City, Saturday Janu­
ary 3rd 1930, at two forty-five PLY

■

PRESENT.

The President, Professor Charles E. Fay, presiding, Lewis

L. Delafield, Robert II. Chapman,B.H.Seaver,LeRoy Jeffers,Henry G. Bry­

!

ant, Hon. Harrington Putnam,Howard Palmer,A.H.MacCarthy, Allen Carpe,
H.S.Hall,Jr. B.S.Comstock,

r*
•« S.Ladd,

T.D.Tilcox, A.C.Tate, F.N.Waterman

Prof. H.A.Perkins, Rev. Harry P. Nichols, Dr. J.M.Thorington, Dr. A.J.
Gilmour and Capt. J.H.Cuntz -21.

r

The meeting was called to order at 2-45 P.M. in the Lecture Room
of the New York Public Library.
The minutes of the meeting held in Boston, December 29th, 1917,
were approved without being read as they had been previously distribu­
ted to the members of the Club.
President Fay thereupon introduced Mr. Falter D. File ox and s&lt;uid j
"The talk today involves a very interesting feature that requires as
it has been decided to take a recess and ]
much sunlight as possible, anu
I think,therehave Mr. Tilcox explain his beautiful color photography.
passed motion and invite Mr. Tilcox
fore that we will regard that as a
to speak".
A paper entitled

V

"Autochrome Photography" was then read by Mr.

collection of color photographs taken
tilcox, and at its conclusion a
and Rockies were examined by those presby the author in the Pyranees
ent.
MR. DELAFIELD.

to the regular order of business
Before we proceed

�f

I should like to move that this

most interesting paper, which would be

L
of considerable interest to a much larger audience than is
present here rj
be printed by the secretary.
It was seconded and unanimously approved that the Secretary be em­
powered to have the above paper printed.
The Chairman called upon the Secretary to read the Annual Report
of the Club.
it was moved, seconded and unanimously approved that the Report of
the Secretary be accepted and placed on file.
The Chairman called upon the Treasurer to read the Treasurers1
Report. This was read and showed an available balance of $254.33.
It was moved, seconded and unanimously approved that the report
of the Treasurer be accepted and placed on lile.

\)

The Chairman reported regarding the addition of Mrs. Laura R.
Frazeur to the list of members engaged in war activities, and cxplained in some detail her work abroad.
The Chairman reported that at a former meeting o&lt;f the Dcrectors
a Committee was appointed to report on deceased members of the Club.
Chairman of the Committee, was reRev. Dr. Harry H.P.Nichols, as
quested by Pres. Fay to read the Committees Report on deceased members, Prof

E.C .Pickering. Harley H. Prouty, Prof. F.-. .Free corn, Col.

Roosevelt and Dr.

J. Williams Thite.

The obituray notices were then

read after which it was moved seconded and approved that the report oi
the Committee be accepted and placed on file.
(Chairmans1 remarks regarding Dr. Pickering omitted)
Mr. Freeborn I knew most intimately for many years, and it
was also my great pleasure to be at the camp with him. I feel that
CHAIRMAN;

the Club is very much the loser by the death of these two men who be-

�HfJ

:

came such ueep lovers of nature, but let us trust that we shall go on
increasing in strength through this period that has so beautifully weal;
weathered the stress of the past few years. Let me say that I did
not expect to see so many of us together.
REPORT QF TIL] COMMITTEE 01- NOMINATIONS

JUDGE PUTNAM:

(First part omitted uue to belief that report was written)
The commitfttee on Nominations has made and they offer this report
for officers for the term of one year, which is the legal term, but
which by custom has been continued during the last two years.
It was moved, seconded and approved that the Report of the Com­

!
:
,

mittee on Nominations be accepteu and that the Secretary be instruct­
ed to cast one ballot for the names as presented

hich he did and the

Chairman announced that they were elected for the ensueing year or

:

until their successors should be chosen.
President Fay requested Mr. Delafield to take the Chair. Mr.
Delafield, however, informed the Club that he would prefer to contin­

!

:

ue the custom of letting the retiring Chairman hold office through­
out the meeting.
The Chairman called upon the Secretary to read his report on
new members.
It was moved seconded and approved that this report be accepted hi
and placed on file.
The Chairman called upon the Librarian Hr Jeffers, to read his
report.

The Librarian presented a detailed report ol his work and

also made numerous suggestions to the members of the Club,
It was moved seconded and approved that this report be accepted and placed on file.
JUDGE PUTNAM:

in regard to the International Congress on Al­

■'

�pinism at Monaco next May, this Club has been invited to be represented,
and I move that Pres. Fay and ex-Pres,
Bryant and such others as may be
visiting that region next May be authorized to represent the Club at that
Congress. (Remarks omitted)
It was moved seconded and approved that this motion be adopted.
COMMITTEE Qi: PR INTI MG :
said

Hr Howard Palmer, Chairman of the Committee

During the past two years it has, of course been almost impossible

to attempt anything in the way of printing, and I have no report to make
The Chairman of the Committee journeyed to Washington and cooperated in
bringing out the Club booklet.

I do not know whether the Club finances

warrant the question of bringing out another monograph,

It would seem

a good time to discuss this question even if the funds are not availa­
ble now, for so much time elapses before a paper can come out in finish­
ed form. Perhaps it would be advisable to take some action.
PROFESSOR FAY: May I not ask the Chairman of the Committee on Printing about a certain map?
COMMITTEE Oil PRIM TING: The map has been submitted for publication,
first, to the Geological Survery of Canada, and recently to the Topographical Division, ana, as I understand it, they are now at work and
completing the map.

Y/hen it will be published I do not know, but it will

be a Government map and
MR. CHAPMAN.

credited to Messrs Palmer and Chapman.
In that connection, when the map was

Mr. President.

taken over by the Government it was

specified that we be liberally fav-

the members of the Alpine
ored by complimentary copies, so I can assure
reasonable consideration in the matter of the
Club that they will have
maps ,
MR. BRYANT:
;

Mr, Chairman,

In attending the reunion of our Club,

at every one, it has been regretful to
and I believe I have been present

�68.
me that we have never seen a re
is desirable that wc have a
cross the conoment to jo*n

rresentative of the

Pacific slope. It
citizen of California make a i
journery aUs&gt; but the

this Club would authorize the becreta

expense is a deterrent, and i f

ry and Treasurer to pay traveling
expenses and send an urgent appeal we might
succeed in getting a "Vestern Vice-President or Secretary,
and while I have no special motion to
make I throw that out as a
suggestion and would be very -glad to hear
some expression of opinion on that subject.
JUDGE PUTNAM; .

ihis suggestion can be adopted,

I think it is

a ve • y remarkable tning that we hold any western members, whose interest in uhe Club, strictly speaking, is very remote. I recall the efforts
uhat I made uo induce Mr. i uir to attend, and I remember his rather humorous remarks regarding germs and diseases that might be encountered in
the sleeping cars, and, I think the feeling now is not so much to the
perils of health and life as it is to the cost and time, perhaps two
weeks, to come here, and I think we might well give authority to the
members of the Board to make an appropriation of such expenses ol tne
Vice-President of the Club, or if hew was not able to come,ox some representative of the Club who is coming here.

I hope that such an ap-

propriation may be made,
DR. LADD OF THE PACIFIC COAST.

■

I happen to be from the Pacific

Club for a number of years. I was
coast and am a member of the Mazamas
and the Mountaineers, and I would sugalso a member of the Sierra Club
notified a month or two before the meetgest that if those Clubs were
Clubs would very likely be in the
those
*nS some representatives ol
those meetings and the dinner, and
to
attend
cast and would be pleased
traveling expenses,
it would not be necessary to offer
brief report as delegate at the camp
made
a
Mr. Seaver
MR SEAVER:

�69.
oi one Alpine Cluo of C3.ns.cio. in July last.
HR. JEFFERS. Mr. Jeiiers announced the receipt by the New York
Public Library of the axe diven to the Club by DR. William Hunter
Workman which had been used by him for many years.

A brass plate with

an appropriate inscription had been affixed to the axe bv Mr. Palmer.
It will be exhibited to the public in connection with the Clubs

books

and collection oi' photographs.
Mr. Waterman.

Just as a matter of information, at least it was

information to me, I learned about a week ago that it is now possible
to obtain the report of the British Columbia Boundary Commission with
a set of fine maps of the Alberta British Columbia boundary and ad­
joining regions. The report consists of a volume of text and about tw
twenty- six maps. Last summer I saw trie collection but was told it
woulu not be available to the public,

I wrote asking if that decis-

ion could be .reviewed and am nov* iniormeu that it might be had ior one
dollar.
REV. DR. NlCHOLS:

I would like to ask the Secretary what dis^os-

ition will be made of the 147 copies of the Club booklet,
would be the objection to the members disposPRESIDENT FAY: What
who uesire copies? I know that withing of them gratuitously to those
for a friend whose guest I was.
■Vi
in 48 hours I wish I had had a cop^
business the meeting was adjourned in
There being no further
illustrated lecture on the Wind jj
order that the members might attenu an
A.C. Tate.
River Mountains of Idaho, by .a.
'

�Report of the

far /^/&lt;f

Hr. President and Members

70

Secretary.

of the Gluh:During the time elapsed

since the last meeting the

Secretary reports the following:
The Board of G-overnors
met 3 times and at the meeting
of December 28,1918 decided to omit the addnual dinner for
1918.

The last dinner was held at Boston,December 29,1917.

Membership:
The changes in membership since the figures given
in the year-book for I919 are as follows:
Last reported
Active
Loss by death (Prof.Freeborn)
Elected during 1919
Totals

88. Honorary 11* Total.99
1 .
10.
97-

2.

13.

•&gt;

1/0.

-gwia tota*»

This is the largest total membership attained in the history of
the Club.

Of this total 11 are women, one of whom is an Honor-

ary Member.

This seems to indicate that our American women are

not backward in the sport.
Honorary Members elected:

Election to Honorary Membership is com-

pleted of His Majesty the King of the Belgians and Baron F. G-abet,
President of the Club Alpin Francais.
the Secretary, it reads:
A telegram was received by
Los Angeles, Calif.
October 28,1919
Major Robert Hollister
^accepts with great pleasure
His Majesty King
g £jluls and sends best wishbecome Honorary Member Ameri
es for prosperity of your orgam
(signed)
Cartier,Belgian Ambassador.
Baron de
the Secretary had special
At the direction of the Board
and for Alpina Americana
the 1919 year-book
bindings made for
Nos.1,2 and 3.

�2.
The club book

was bound in limp, dark blue Russia lea.ther
with "American Alpine Club
I9I9" printed in silver and a fine edge
Pointed in gold. The three numbers
of Alpina Americana were bound
as a single volume in limp maroon colored Morocco with "Alpina
Americana" printed in silver and an edge line printed in gold.
The work was well done and creditable to the Club.
An engrossed notice of election, together with the indi­
cated books, was forwarded to King Albert through the Belgian
Ambassador at Washington.

Aji

ti 7^

The Active Members elected are:
Arthur G. Tate, Stamford, Conn.
Walter L. Huber, Berkeley, Cal.
New York City
Allen Carpe,
George Hobart Harvey, Denver, Colorado
Edmund S. Meany, Seattle, Washington
Donald B. MacMillan, Freeport, Maine
Charles B. Eddy, Plainfield, N.J.
Joseph Cooke Smith, Valais, Switzerland
Lieut. Col. W. W. Foster, Victoria, B.C.
Mrs George E. Vincent, Greenwich, Conn.
Year-book:

It was not until the spring of 19^9 that the year-book
that was due in 1917 was completed by the Secretary, with the
courteous assistance of the former Secretary, hi • Palmer, and it

was forwarded to members in June and July. There were Printed:
90
Paper covered
260
Cloth covered
350 copies.
Total
There have
Alpine Clubs

been sent to members, candidates to membership,

Geographic Societies, Diplomatic Representatives

of Foreign governments, etc.m all

of the paper covered copies

hand at date 147 of the
and 203 of the cloth bound; leaving on

hound book.

By an oversight the name

1:
:!
U!

I

-

of Francis P. Farquhar was omit-

"War Activities". He was a Lieutenant in
list
headed
ted from the
Active Duty fair more than fifteen
the United States Navy and on

i

�3.
months.
Alpina Americana.;
Copies of Alpina Americana, Nos. 1, 2 and 3
have been sent to all members elected in 1918 and to
1 . Mr. J. B. Harkin, Commissioner of Dominion

Parks of Canada.
2. The Director of the Geological Survey of Canada.
3. The Chairman of the Commission of Conservation
of Canada.
They will soon go forward to the members elected in 19^9•
The Williams and Wilkins Co.,Baltimore, reports there are now
on hand:

No. i.

/6. copies.
No. 2. 3-/, copies.
No. 3. £»8S.copies.

Club Alpin Francais:
A suggestion was received from Mr. Montagnier
—

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■■ ■

i m I i ■■

p

i

iii

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'

that an American Section of the Club Alpin Francais be formed and
as an alternative that members of the American Alpine Club should
join the French Club.

The first proposal was not approved by

your Board a,s it was thought that so few would respond as to make
the effort Ineffective. The second suggestion was approved and a
circular issued by the Secretary stating the advantages to be
gained and the assistance that would be rendered the fellow
Alpinists of the Club Alpin Francais.
I am glad to report that 14 of our members have joined the French Club.

The matter will be fully reported upon by

of the Club and Secretary of
Mr. LeRoy Jeffers, the Librarian
Clubs of North America.
the Associated Mountaineering
Invitation a to the Club.

An invitation to send delegates to the
of Alpinists to be held at Monaco in

International Congress
President of the Congress,
received
from
the
May 1920 has been

7Z

�4.
Baron G-abet, the President

73
the Club Alpin Francais.

Our President,

Professor Fay, and a former President
Mr. Henry G-. Bryant, have been
appointed Honorary Vice Presidents
of the Congress.
Ac uion on the selection of delegates has been deferred
by the Board of Directors until the matter was brought to the attention of the Club at the present meeting.
A circular was addressed to our members asking them to
indicate if they would attend the Congress, so far the affirmative
replies have been very few. (2).
The Alpine Club of Canada invited this Club to send, up
to three, delegates to the Annual Camp, held in the Yoho Valley
in July last.

Our President named Mr. Seaver as a delegate and be

attended the Camp and will report to you

on the subject.

The Secretary of the American Association for the Ad­
vancement of Science sent a request that we hold our Annual Meeting
with the Association, at Saint Louis, in December 19'9 and January
'920.

This was of necessity declined.

attention to the use of
The Secretary wishes to call
ascent made last summer. It was left
the Club slip recording an
unclimbed Peak at the head of the
on the summit of a previously
Frazer G-lacier, Southwest of Jasper.
in a Williams Shaving Soap box and
placed
The record was
4 feet high.
left in a cairn about
climbers provide themselves with
mended
that
It is recom
shown in which to leave the
to
the
one
similar
aluminum match safes
records.

�•\

5.
This recepticle is small, light, water tight and inexpen­

7
1

sive - (the retail price 25 cents) - (Show Sample)

Invitation to attend the dinner this evening were addressed
to H. E. the Peruvian Ambassador and to the Governor of Alaska.
Each regretted his inability to be in New York at the date of the
dinner.

!!

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�The American Alpine Club
in account with Beni. p. leaver, Treasurer
GENERAL ACCOUNT
Receipts
1919

Jan.

1,
2,
Jan. 30,
Dec. 23
July 3,

By Balance from 1918
By dues for 1918
By dues for 1919
59 members

423.08
15.00
295.00

dues for 1916,1917,1918

15.00
748.08

Expenditures
Feb.

To annual dues in associated
Mountaineering Clubs of
North America
To R. H. Chapman, disbursements
Treasurer account, envelope
and cards

5,

Mar. 29 ,
Mar. 4,

10.00
32.81
9.60
5.75
396.25

Aug. 20 ,
"
20,
Oct. 23,

Secretary’s account printing
Publishing Year Book
Appalachian Mountain Club

bee. 27,

Treasurer’s account postage
and stamps

4.65

Apr.

AlpinA Americana

1.20

Vol. x 14 ho. 4.

7,

*i
I!

7,
Nov.

ii

3,

25.00

Wilkins Storage
Lowry. &amp; Co. fi^e Ins.
premium
Wilkens Storage

additional

Dec. 31,
II

31,

AlDinii Lowry &amp; Co*
fire Ins. Premium
Wilkins mailinS copies

Dec.31,
ffV'.

General Fund
Balance to credit of Trust Co.
Franklin
and deposit

3.47
2.61
1.69
.22
493.75
254.33

�1G
Reserve gunrt
1919
J an* 1.
Mar. 24,
Sept.16•
Dec. 24,
Dec* 24,
Dec. 31.

By Balance

By Coupons 3rd Liberty Loan
By Coupons 3rd Liberty Loan
By Life Membership Laurie R. Frazeur
By Life Membership Col. V*. W. Foster
By Balance

807.52
14.86
14.89
50.00
50.00
937.27

Invested as follows:
3rd U. S, Liberty Loan Coupon Bond @ Cost 700.00
In Brooklyn Cavings Bank
197.69
In Franklin I’rust Co.
40.18
937.27

ffidv/ard Whymper Fund
1919.
L
j

Jan. 1,
Mar. 24,
Sept.16
Dec. 31,

By Balance
By Coupon 3rd Liberty Loan
By Coupon 3rd Liberty Loan
By Balance

261.80
. 5.30
5.32
272.42

Invested as follows.!

3rd U.B. Liberty Loan Coupon Bond &amp; Cost
On deposit in Brooklyn Savings Bank
On deposit in Branklin Trust Co.

250.00
8.08
14.34
272.42

Library Endowment Bund

Receipts

1919

Jan.

1

Feb. 5,
Aug. 20,

By Balance
of Quebec Bond
By Coupons City
bond
By Coupons City of Quebec

1113.21
25.00
25.00
1163.21

Expendjtu res..

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Dec. 31,
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New York Dec. 31, 1919.
Benj. F• Seaver

Treasurer

�I

7?
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Professor Edward Charles Pickering died
February 3rd, 1919, at Cambridge, Mass., in the seventythird year of his age.
He was an original member of
the American Alpine Club,

Previously in 1876 he had

been the initiator and the first President of the
Appalachian Mountain Club.

His early observations and

studies of mountains naturally partook of the accuracy
of a great astronomer.

Indeed to this interest may be

attributed the conception of astronomical observatories
at high altitudes, a purpose which was realized in the
Harvard Observatory at Arequipa.

n

The attraction of the

mountains for him continued throughout his life.
This club records its sense of loss in one so
intimately associated in this country with mountainresearch.

ft ft

Q

�f&lt;n Jj

77

Harley H. Prouty was born in
died at Portland, Ore^onW JUne 26&gt;'%57. He
&gt; reSon, September 11,1gi6.
He travelled extensively in this
country, Europe and the Orient
and was devoted to mountaineerin
S and kindred sports. He was an
active member of the Sierra Club,
Alpine Club of Canada, Ameri­
can Alpine Club and an Ex-president of the Mazamas.
A summit peak of the North Sister, in the Cascades
was first ascended by him and bears his name.

Mr. Prouty was

elected to Active Membership in the Alpine Club in 1915, but
had never attended an Annual meeting and was known to only a
few of the eastern members of the Club,- a fact that is a matter
of regret.

His mountain^ workj^ Includes items in several countries

though his chief ascents were made in the Cascade Mountains.

He

ascended to a point but 400 feet below the summit of Mt.Robson
He was held in high esteem by his companions and assodates, and that he has passed without being better known to his

in 1913.

fellow spirited members is a deep regret.
contained in an urn placed
His cremated remains are
Obsidian Cliff near the North
in a crypt cut in the face of the
climbing feat was accomplished,
Sister Peak v/here his greatest
the inscriptionA tablet on the Cliff bears
Prouty
Harley H. of
the Mountains
A lover
1857 - *9*6
beauties
heart of the Natural
lie
in
the
j’
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£ufl
ofi/Az:
So his ashes
setting to the Alpilnist and
a fitting
°f the region he loved,
Mountaineer.
Club recognises
That the
of the SOUn
°f this Exponent of Lore
. of the
Club and his fellow Alpinist^
splritifof the Sport.
Resolved:

/

. loss- to the World
outdoors, to the
and the 111

�80
In the death on June 21st last, of Professor Prank W.
.. et)0rn, a graduate of Brown University, the club has lost from its
l /
0f life members a true mountaineer in every sense of the word,
p ' ilSi0ved "the mountains for their majesty and beauty and he seemed to
, in from his visit to the Sternal Hills renewed strength and renewed
V youth.
A •»

At first confining his visits to the White Mountains
. the Adirondaks, then to Switzerland he later in life devoted his
vacations to the Canadian Alps.

i'

wro"tetoa the
short
guide tn
= a^ •
confined his writings
Canadian
but afterwards
the fortunate Companions of Professor vrfov^ . 1 \ose of as who were
S^indSssbto^fie^teSdSfS^ts^Sn!’ hiPsolicitSdS f°rS&lt;pM^°y acts

- ’ £jg?s&amp;. c

•

cr4hrrerso?L

-'.W K assail gdbS*

It was indeed most pleasant to observe at the campfires
of our Canadian Cousins expressions of sorrow at his death and to listen
to the many recollections of kindly acts of our genial friend.

?

Those of us who were priviledged to he companions on his
excursions will long and tenderly cherish his memory and we can surely
. believe that he has climbed the trail over the last Pass in safety and
f,55 now sojourns in the Camp of Eternal Pest#
!

!

1
I

�/T'

l?nl9 GJnnity (Eiiurri)
RECTOR
HARRY PEIRCE NICHOLS. D. D.
18 WEST 1 2 2 D STREET
ASSIST A NT
GUY BEAVER KING. M. A.
18 WEST 1 2 2 d STREET

'

II
t
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NEW York

1 9 l

Theodore Hoosevelt v/a s elect© d Honorary i &lt; em-

bc-r of the Alpine Club,February 1906. The Club
took pri. e in his membership;not in our &amp;ase be­
cause he was one of our foremost statesmen -as well
as a skillful writer of history and travel,but es­
pecially as having the distinctive marks of member
ship in our Club. Mr. Roosevelt early in life gainthe mastery over a ‘fooblo* constitution* by o&lt;$r»istA

ent out-door life* Boon '.ftor graduation, on his
wedding trip,he el .imbed the Jungfrau and the Hatton
horn, challenged thereto by English climbers* Later,
I

in our country,and ol smvhere, he became an expert

:

mountaineer,adding thereto the gift3 of an explorer,
a scientific observer and a friend of the various
peoples among whom he sojourned. 111:3 accomplishments
in these dep.u’tment 1 , in da-t Africa, South America,
have been distinct addition* to the knowledge of
the race. Added to all this were his charm as a
friend and conversationalist and his versatility as
a writer,thus lighting up his experiencea ad explorer an&lt; mountaineer*

�$z

I

^niy QJrtmly (Eljurrlj
RECTOR
HARRY PEIRCE NICHOLS. D. D.
18 WEST 1 2 2 D STREET
ASSISTANT
GUY BEAVER KING. M. A.
18 WEST 1 2 2 0 STREET

1

NEW YORK.

We make grateful record of the fact that
he wars early associated with the .unoriean Al­
pine Club.

;

1 9 1

�PS

f

Dr.J. WILLIAM WHITE.
j

In common with other

organizations, the American Alpine
Club is called on to record the death
of one of its distinguished
members, in the person of Doctor J. William White.
Born in Philadelphia on November 2nd, 1850, of good Ameri­
can stock, he attended schools ca
i his native city and subsequently
graduated from the Hsdioa
vania in 1871,

Department of the University of PennsylIr. the autumn of the acme year, he joined the

expedition ox Professor Agassiz, 'vhich made scientific investigati~ns
in the West Indies and on the east and west coasts of South America.
It was during this eight month's oruiae on the S.S.Haaeler, that
the youthful assistant made the followin’.; unusual ascents -.vhich ho
described as "minor as to elevation":- Mt. Aymond (Patagonia), Mt.
Tijuoa (Brazil), also ascents in Juan Fernandez, in the Galapogos

-

Islands end in Tierra. del Fuego.

i

After some years service as Resident Physician at the Philadel­
phia Hospital, and the Eastern penitentiary, he established himself
in private practice, and, about the same time, became identified
3-a Surgeon with Philadelphia's famous military organisation, the
First City Troop.

In hie home city, Dr. White was best known through

hie interest in college athletics, and his devotion to the Medical
School of the University of Pennsylvania. After his marriage in
he made almost annual tripe to Europe and these journeys
usually included visits to Switzerland ana a forthnight sojourn at
1888,

During this period he placed to his creditnascents of The
Ortler and piz Pa] a and many pedestrian journeys over the passes of

Menaggio.

On the outbreak of the Great War, ho
of the Allies.
threw himself with passionate ardour into the cause
Switzerland and the Tyrol,

�|

i

Pennsylvania contingent of the American Ambulance in Paris.

Two

of his literary productions: "A Primer of the »„ t„ Americano"
and. nA Text Book ox the War for Artier i cans" enhanced his reputation

1

!

i

I"

as a. brilliant writer and stimulated American public opinion on
I

the side of the Allies.
Dr. White undoubtedly impaired his health by his ceaseless
devotion to these war activities, and, after a long illness, born
with cheerful fortitude, he died of a complication of diseases
on April 24, 1916, in his sixty-sixth year.
With a modest record of what may be called technical mountain™
eering achievement to hio credit. Dr. White brough to our organization the authority of his position as p leader. in surgical 90ience,
a champion of clean athletics and a sincere devotion of the great

out-of-doors,

These attributes-, added to a genuine for making

constituted an unusual
or holding them
and attractive personality - one that will be greatly missed at
friends, and capacity

i

the annual gatherings of our brotherhood of mountaineers.
H.G.B.

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Owing to a consolidation of the
&lt;5%
the
New
York
Public
Library
and
a
ence
and
technology
divisiora
„of If the mountaineering colleSion £°ns^uent rearrangement of the
floor’to Room 120 on the first floor
H^USt b®en moved from the second
"passion and opportunity for qui^^onsStaU* 9h*lvy for
' e v
Almost no mountaineering books v»wl J
of1_ the b°oks.
st year,but the National ParkSServiof» -i 6 b®en Published during the
pamphlet by R.W.Toll on Mountaineer!^ in the Roor1^1^ ill,,strated
S; while R.S.Yard, now secretary
the NatfnnS Jou,ntain National
nublished through Scribners a well written hr, onad pfrk3 Association,
the National Parks,dealing with^ubTJctr! '^ entdtled Ths Book of
Sian Chamberlain collected a series of nmSJ*
3tandP°int*
£ New England Highlands issued by Houghton* andq
Vacati onJranf
through the same publisher California Desert StiJi
°tt
Colorado Desert and its surrounding mountains
A bio£onWalk?nf
is portly to be published by the International ComitteS of the Y M r
which will“°ffait"1en;““ti0“*0«t
of the outdoo^ and mfntkli- • ^
-ering cl"*“
Jt
intended to follow it with booklets
and maps desciiptiye of the local walks surrounding our leading citieso
Ths U.S.^aS* has already printed a map of trails about Washington and
is ready to cooperate in like manner for other regions.
We have secured valuable additions to our collection of scenic
photographs. Among these are a number oCfine Views of the Canadian
Rockies by W.D.Wiloox of Washington, of Glacier Park, Columbia River,
and the Grand Canyon by A.J.Baker of Portland; while beautiful views
of mountain scenery in several of our National Parks have been obtained
from the National Park Service. A remarkable group of photographs of
sand dunes on the coast of Virginia was donated by H.C.Mann of Norfolk.
Other interesting gifts are on the way.
The Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs, which was
inaugurated by the American Alpine Club, has had a busy and successful
year. It now comprises 33 clubs and societies having the common bond
of interest in the preservation and development of the finest scenic
regions of North America. Among the recent additions to our member­
ship were the United States Forest Service; the American Forestry
Association; The National Park Association; the Dominion Parks Service
of Canada; Save the Redwoods League; and the Palisades Interstate Park
Commission.

liillllllllllllft

posed to create. The Bureau is
0f all our clubs and
Park Service, and the officers and »tat 1st ^ ^ Direotor of National
societies are reprinted in the
Parks which is just published*
contributed to the magazines a
The Secretary of the Bureau
.
and canyon regions which
aeriee of articles, on little known
lectured on these regions
are to become scenically famous,
ding 30cieties.
ani on mountaineering before ma i
Respectfully submitted.

v/i

yi(r-

"Librarian American Alpine Club
Secretary Bureau Associated
Mountaineering Clubs

�8*7
kinutes of the meeting of

B0ARD 0P DIRECTORS HELD APRIL 24TII
1920 AT THE OFFICE OF PRESIDENT DELAFIELD
IE HE'” YORK CITY.

The Meeting was called to order at 12 10 P.M. By President Delafield who asked rev • Harry P. Nichols to take the
Chair. There were
present the following Directors, President Lewis L. Delafield, Secretary falter D. filcox, Treasurer B.F.Seaver, and Councilors Rev. Harry
P. Nichols, Albert II. KacCarthy and Howard Palmer.
The Secretary read the Minutes of the previous Meeting of the board.
Hr. Delafield proposed an amendment to the Minutes "That all members of
the Club who were able to attend the Congress of Alpinism at Monaco
should be regarded as duly appointed Delegates". The Minutes as amended
were approved.
The matter of formalizing the election of a new Deere tary was then
taken up. Mr. Delafield reported that upon the death of Major Chapman
all the Directors of the Club acting separately and without iormal meeting had requested in writin o that Hr. ’~alter D. Hilcox be appointed as
t r
Secretary of the Club in the r lace of the late ajor Chapman and that

I

thereupon the President of the Club had designated Mr. filcox Secretary.
On motion it was unanimously resolved that the action oi the President
in designating Mr. Wilcox as Secretary be approved, that all acts oi P.r,
filcox as Secretary be ratified and that Mr. fileox be elected Secretary
of the Club to fill the vacancy created by the death of Major Chapman,
It was voted that the expense of the wreath sent by the Club in re­

;

membranee of Major Chapman bo defrayed by the Treasurer. The President
then designated Mr. Palmer to prepare a memorial and present same at
the next Annual Meeting.

L

The Secretary read correspondence in connection with the ueath and
\

�&lt;?&lt;?
funeral services of Rear-Admiral Peary amongst which
were a letter of
condolence to Mrs Peary, a letter and telegram from
appointing Messrs Rridgman, Pryant and Rilcox

Pres. Delai'ield

as a committee to at-

tend the funeral and represent the Club and other correspondence show­
ing the action taken in sending an appropriate floral tribute and a
note of thanks for same from Marie Peary Stafford.
The action of the J-res. In appointing the Committee war* approved and
a vote of thanks made for his action. It was also decided that the
wreath sent by the Secretary in the name of the Club be paid for by the
Treasurer. President Delai'ield appointed "essrs Bridgman and Bryant a
Committee to prepare a memorial i'or presentation at the next Annual
Meeting.
The Secretary read letters of announcement of election to Honorary
Membership sent to Professor Coleman and Dr. Ralcott and the replies
to same which were voted to be entered on the records and

.inuies.

The Secretaries report on change of membership since the last Meet­
ing was as follows - Loss by death, two,Robert Hollister Chapman Jan.
II th and Rear Admiral Peary Reb * 20 th. By resignation, two, R. Sanford
f

Riley and ullen II. Bent.

Increase by election to Honorary Membership

two, Dr, Charles D. Ralcott and rrofcssor A.P. Coleman. Total net change
a loss of two making the membership now 108. It was voted "That action
021 the resignation of Mr. Allen II. Bent be held in abeyance, and that
the Treasurer be authorized to notify Mr. Bent that until further order
of the Board the payment of his annual Hues be omitted".
Upon request of the Treasurer President Delafielu appointed Mr. MacCarthv to audit his accounts.
I

The nomination of Rev. T7.B.G-reen was then brought beiore tne i_oaru
and his name approved i'or action of the Members.

j
V

�11

c?°1

}

jI

A letter from Baron cie Cartier, transmitting a letter from His
Majesty the King of the Belgians was read and also a translation of
King Albert's letter, in which acknowledgement and thanks for the copy
ox the

|

i-&lt;y-Laws anu register oi the Club and the volumes of Alpina Amer-

icana sent previously were given. II was voted to spread the letter on
I

the Minutes.
The Secretary then read a letter from hr. Matthes with regard to a
suggestion to name a mountain in the Glacier National Park

in honor of

I

Major Chapman and suggesting that action to this effect should originate
in the A.A.C. rather than in the U.S.G.S.

r’

I

he letter was accompanied

h
by a map on which three tentative choices of peaks were indicated. The

'

suggestion to name a mountain for Major Chapman aroused much interest and
was given a cordial welcome. President Delafield thereupon made the iol~
lowing motion "That the United States Geological Survey be requested to

|

name some peak in the Glacier national Park lor major Chapman out oi res^-J j
pect for his memory and in recognition ol his valuable v;or^ and services
to the United States."

This was unanimously approved.

The Treasurer reported that a sum oi 0)330. oo received anonymously
from nine members of the Club had been placed at the disposal of Profes-

i
*

M

sor Fay as a delegate to the Congress at Monaco. President Delafield suggested that this be entered on the Minutes and that such sum had been
received by the Treasurer for this purpose.

In this connection President

Delafield announced the success of collecting a iund oi

200.oc irom the
:

members and that this sum had been remitted to the guide faugwalder.
There being no further business the Meeting was adjourned at 1-30

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SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION"

*«. »^srR°EEsNsVo
sectary

UNITED STATES NATIONAL MUSEUM
INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGES

TW&gt;.'i/t//fy/o/t, (ZaV.A.

BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY
NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL PARK
ASTROPHYSICAL OBSERVATORY
INTERNATIONAL CATALOGUES OF
SCIENTIFIC LITERATURE

March 23, 1920.
Mr. Walter D. Wilcox,
1526 New Hampshire Avenue, N.W.,
Washington, D. C.
My dear Mr. Wilcox:
It is with real and great appreciation that
I acknowledge to you as Secretary my election as an
honorary member of the American Alpine Club,
k

&gt;

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7

ciate it all the more as ray mountain days are about
over.

i

I appre-

Will you not convey to the Board of Directors my

sincere thanks?

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�wr

mnivecsitg ot XEoconto
TORONTO, CANADA
DEPARTMENT OF GEOLOGY

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�93

MINUTES OF THE MEETING OF THE

BOARD OF DIRECTORS HELD NOV. 16TH
1920 AT THE OFFICE OF PRESIDENT
DELAFIELD IN NET YORK CITY.

A meeting of the Board of Directors was held at the office of
President Delafield on Kov. 16th 1920. The meeting was called to
order at noon. Those present were, Lewis L.Delafield, Rev.Harry P.

:

iv ichols,

Henry G. Bryant, Benjamin P.Seaver, Howard Palmer and 17.D.

Tilcox.

I resident Delafield asked

"v. Bryant to take the chair.

After the minutes of the previous meeting had been read by the
Secretary the matter of choosing a place and date for the Annual

I

Meeting and dinner was discussed. Owing to the fact that there were
a number of problems not only as to the date but more particularly

r

as to the place, to be considered, it was moved by President Delai

field that a committee be appointed with full authority to decide
!

these questions. The committee appointed to act on this resolution
v/as made up as follows;- Hon. Harrington Putnam, IIr Benjamin F.
Seaver and Mr. Walter D. Wilcox.

Meanwhile Jan. the 8th was select-

ed as a tentative date.
The

&gt; ^ ecretary

then read a letter from the Secretary of the U.S*

Geographic Board stating that a mountain in the Glacier National i ark
had been named at its meeting oi Oct. 6th in honor of our late Secretary, Major Chapman. This mountain is described as being 9375 feet in

i

altitude, and located just north of Brown Pass, between Vurdeman Lake
and Logan Glacier, Glacier National Park, Teton County, Montana,
of the resolutions to be offerred by the
Mr. Palmer read a draft
Robert Hollister Chapman. It was moved and
A.A.C. in memory of Major
be spread on the Minutes. A copy of
approved that these resolutions
been previously sent to Mrs. Chapman and her
these resolutions having

!i
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�Cj^

I

:

letter of thanks having .been received

by the Secretary it was also
moved and approved to spread this letter on the Minutes.

i
;■

President Delafield asked Rev. Dr. Nichols to prepare a memorial
on the late Archdeacon Stuck a life member in the A.A.C.
The nomination oi Professor Harold Bradley of the University of

I

Wisconsin, proposed by Professor Bade, and seconded by Professor Colby
was brought up by the Secretary.

Dr. Nichols moved that on the recom­

mendation of two vice-presidents this nomination be approved. This
motion was unanimously carried.
The nomination of Rev. Dr. T.B.Greenswhose name had been approved
by the Board of Directors in their meeting of April 24th, owing to an
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adverse opinion on the part of one of the members of the Club, was
again brought before the Board. Dr. Nichols suggested that the whole
question of

eligibility and qualifications necessary for member­

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ship had been brought up and after some little discussion it was voted
to table this nomination.

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Owing to an oversight on the part of the Secretary the name oi

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Dr. Mary Goddard Potter, was not brought before the Board at the meet-

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ing but the approval of all the Directors present was obtained in
writing a few days later as if approved at the said meeting.
the meeting was adjourned at 1.15
There being no further business

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BoSSeo-°^a MeetinS of the
Board oj. Directors held in
hev; York City Jan. 8th 1921

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was held6Janf sL^gs^at^the Public°Lib?£r.th® American A1Pine Club
Meeting was called to order'at 11-30 a m
?Lln Kew York
The
lowing; - President Delafield, viL-Pre^den^Bade^JicJ-^sL^ ^
Brown Secretary Wilcox,Treasurer Seaver,Rev. Harrv P
chols
r H G
!efSis.
’ and ^ ^^tation the Libr^any?! LeRoy
The minutes of the previous Meeting were read by the Secretary
and approved.
Nominations and elections of new members were tben oo'n^'ir^PT'pr! p&gt;y\c\

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SStSTfSi
were read and after a full discussion. Rev. Dr. Greene was unanimously
elected,. his name having previously been before the Club for more than
the required three weeks with only one dissenting vote.
i,.r. Roger Vv • Toll, and Prof. Rollin T •Chamberlin who had been pro­
posed for membership were unanimously approved as eligible for member­
ship and their names directed to be brought before the Club.
A letter from the Hon. Y'/.L.Harding, Governor of Iowa, addressed
to Mr. Delafield, urging the importance of having a representation of
the A.A.C. at the National Conference on Parks, to be held at Des Moines
Jan.lo to 12th 1921, was read. The Secretary was directed to indicate
the sympathy and approval of the Club with the objects of this Conference
in a letter to Governor Harding. Professor W.F.Bade and Mr. Henry G.
Bryant were appointed representatives of the Club to attend the Confer­
ence .
The question of the proposed invasion of the Yellowstone park by
commercial interests was brought up, but referred to the Cub Meeting to
be held the same day.
The subject of the publication by the Club of a uide to the Can­
adian Rockies, already compiled by one of its members, ana which contain­
ed a great amount of useful information, particularly to mountaineers
was brought up by Mr. Howard Palmer.
It was resolved and unanimously
approved that Mr. Palmer be requested to proceed in the work of revising
and editing this book and to issue it with the backing ox the club.
At this point. President Delafield being called away, Vice-Presihent Bade
Mr LeFoySJefferstcalledYheAttention of the Board to the large

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which.the Meeting *as bBing
be&amp;ring the club initials
fwrfkf w';re distinguished by
Tibrary. A proposal to devote the
m those belonging to the Pu -...^hase of photographs was referred to
Clubs library fund also to the purchase ox P* at“12:45&gt;
the afternoon Meeting. The Meeting acj

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�96

American Alpine Club.
Annual Report of the Secretary. jan.
8th 1921.
The membership of the Club is
now 110, consisting of S6 Active and
14 Honorary members.
The Club has sustained, an unusual i
members Major Robert -^ollister ghapman, Rea^-ldSiral PeaJy^AlleJ'
Giichrist^and Arcndeacon Hudson Stuck. One resignation S2t of M? °
Sa?ed°rDr '^Charles Galoot’SCe^ved: Two ne Honora?y members have beeA el­
ected, Dr. Charles ,/a.lcoto, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution
and Frofessjr A.P.Coleman of the University of y“ S"
2f al,rt
Hy°Jf Bradl«J »&lt;»■&gt; elected to Active mLbersMp on
January otn, and Re\7. Wintnrop Benton Greene was elected Jan. 8th.
The chiei items of Club interest during the past yean ane the follow­
ing. A letter transmitted by Baron de Cartier, Belgian Ambassador, to
Pro*.essor Fay ±rom His Majesty the King of the Belgians which reads as
follows; - His majesty has received the letter which you have addressed to
him in the name of the American Alpine Club advising him that in the
course of a recent meeting of your association His Majesty has been elect­
ed an Honorary member of your Society.
^You are not ignorant of the great interest which my Sovereign has for
Alpine sport and which he, as you probably know, har practiced in person
with great enthusiasm. You will understand consequently that the Ring has
been deeply moved by the action through which the members of your Club
have desired to distinguish him.
His Majesty has assigned me the honor of indicating his gratitude
and to transmit at the same time His most sincere thanks for the Brochure
"By-Laws and Register of the American Alpine Club1* as also for the beauti­
ful album "Alpina Americana" and which His Ambassador at Washington has
forwarded to him.
Kindly accept, Mr. President, the expression of my most distinguished
consideration 0
Private Secretary to His Majesty,
(signed)
Count d* Arrschat.tT

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At the instance of Mr. F. Mat the s correspondence was had with the
U.S. 0eo??aS?o^oJrd with regard to naming some peak in Glacier Nation-

*1 PaS°in h“or of SaTor cSpmsn. I ™

1

to Infrom the ciub that ao-

Hnv,
1 ,
,
. JrT
j 7+.
meeting of Oct. 6th last, when a
D0 , w^s taken by this Board
, nori-^ 0f Brown Pass, between
Peak of 9575 feet altitude located just
^
Secretarv
'Urdem?n Lake and L°San Glacier wao iiaiie lssued iast summer is ready for
The map by Messrs Palmer and Chapman 1
distribution on application to the Surveyor General.
. Alpine Congress at Monaco last
„
The Club was ably represented at the
Smith was appointed an associate
“■ay by Professor Pay. Mr. Joseph -°°ka
unfortunately not able to attend.
del(3gate to the Congress. Mr Bryant

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The Canada!an Alpine cinh
Club
send five
inv*tediS the
Alpine
to itsto Welcome
HomerepresentativerLkJSJl7
Camp at MU AssVlboinTl^5as American
owners
to
President
Delafield
! last su&gt;™er.
m response
Mr. this
Albert
MacCarthy,
Dr.lndS^j lilmoufa'^0^^
&gt;*• B.P
SeavS,
to represent the Club.
biimour and Dr. George m. MacKee
In connection with the inva^-?nvi
4., ,r n
posed by the Smith Bill and the public LarL^hif^0^ ?Hrk aS pro~
thf l(ul®s Committee of the House of Representatives lastVav *
clubs and similar organizations were
y. a darSe numoer of outdoor
aproval in person or in writing. Without rnpH6! and voiced their disSouhcil the Secretary sent t he Gfoil wing letter^r,^^0?12^^011 fr°m ,the
American Civic Association which letter was iCi
. Secretary of the
before the Rules Committee of the *ouse knd printefin^repoST

American Alpine Club,
May 24, 1920.
Miss Eleanor Marshall,
Secretary American Civic Association,
Washington, D. C.
My Dear Miss Marshall: In reply to your letter of May 19th, with in­
formation as to the proposed bill to encroach on the Yellowstone National Park
for irrigation purposes, I feel authorized in saying that any such action would
meet with the disapproval of the great majority of the members of the American
Alpine Club.
In my opinion our country should be constantly vigilant in preserving the
vested rights of the public against selfish or local interests, There is a higher
form of statesmanship than that of discovering only a utilitarian value in our
most beautiful scenery and in those National Parks that have been set aside for­
ever for the use of the people as a source of recreation and inspiration.
Yours very truly,
Walter D. Wilcox,
Secretary.

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RESOLUTIONS

of The American Alpine Club
upon the Death of
Major Robert Hollister Chapman.

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WHEREAS, The AmericanJ^lpine Club has suffered
a gre&amp;t loss in the death of., it s'devoted Secretary,
Major Robert Hollister'Chapman,
ana
M
H
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WHERE A S , Robert H &lt;3.11 i/t e r in hapman was held in
the highest, esteem Ivy the members of the club
not only for his mad# as/topographer of the
United States
&gt;1.&lt; 1 cal Survey. r
jor of
Engineers, for his efforts towards the establish­
ment of Glacier National Park, and for his ex­
plorations in the mountains of- British Columbia;
but also fur a.1 s' exceed!.
2
&gt;1
' ' oes
to the club and especially. -for his high character
and winning personality; therefore be it

■

RESOLVED, that the American Alpine Club hereby
expr esses] pro found s 0 rrow a t| the death wf its
Secretary,and extends the deepest sympathy to the
members of his' family in their bereavement; and
also be it

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RESOLVED, tnat as a tribute of respect . to. . the„
memory of its honored member, these resolutions
be incorporated in the minutes of the club and a
copy sent to his family.

A

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A true copy, attest*.
v.

Mh1-

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Secretary.

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TEE AMERICAN ALPINE OLTJB

f

In account with Benj» E» Seaver,
GENERAL

Treasurer.

ACCOUNT

1
.1

RECEIPTS
!;

1920

;

Jan.
By
1,
April 23,
Apr61 h/Ma yl8 th
Jan.5th/Dec.31s t
April 20,
Peb.

24,

March 23
May
Dec.

,
5.

20,

Balance from 1919
$254.33
Dues for 1918
5.00
Dues for 1919
25.00
Dues for 1920 - 64 members 320.25
Subscriptionsto C.E. Pay
Fund
330.00
Anonymous subscription for
printing pamphlet on color
photographer
40.00
Life Membership
George H. Harvey
50.00
Life Membership
Joseph Cooke Smith
50.00
Life Menbership,,
Allen Carpe
60*00

i.
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$1124.58

til
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EXPENDITURES
1920
Peb,

IV. Tp
18,
18,

(,

K

March
??

28,

28,

19,
23,

Annual dues in associated
Mountaineering Clubs of North
America
Mr# R. H. Chapman,Secretary’s
Disbursements
Treasurers account, printing bill
heads &amp; envelopes
Secretary’s Account L.G. Bew
Services Nov. to Dec. 1919
Secretary's disbursements in
1919 July/ Dec. Stationery
( R. H. Chapman )
Secretary’s disbursements
( W. D. Wilcox ) Jan/Feb 1920
Lowry &amp; Company renewal of Pire
Insurance - 1 year
^ropEiyn Savings Bank - Life
Membership of Harvey transferred
t;o Reserve Fund

$15.00
37.75
8.50

H
25*00

|

85.50

t

64.74

1

7.84
50*00
■

�Sheet #2

f)

March

50,
31,

April

n

10,

(}

14,

15,

'i

'(

May

r

13,

if

22,

6,

21,

!•

Nov.

Deo.

Dec.

1.

20 th

To

Treasurer’s disbursements
stamps
$2.50
Treasurer’s disbursements
typewriting
4.20
Williams &amp; Wilkins Company
ipailing Alpina Americana
1.20
Box and expressage from
Bryn Mawj$ to Baltimore
3.OS
Chas. E. Fay anonymous con­
tributions for European trip 300.00
Howard Palmer, disbursements
for making
- engraving and
affixing brass plate to Workman
ice axe and expressage
10.52
Chas. E. Fay additional sub­
scription towards European
trip.
25.00
Treasurer’s account for
American Express Company
check on Paris,frs.80account C. E. Fay fund
5.00
Brooklyn Savings Bank
transfer to reserve fund
Life membership
J. 0. Smith
50.00
W. D. Wilcox disbursements
wreath for Admiral Peary's
funeral
15.00

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Williams 8c Wilkins Company
Storage Oct.15/19 to Mayl5/20-1.50
Mailing copies Alpina
.35
Americana
Secretary 's Expense
Roberts Company
Circulars, postage and
45.56
addressing
Secretary's Supplies
17.63
Roberts Company
Williams &amp; Wilkins Company
to
Storage 4/15/20
.75
7/15/20
.IS
Mailing Alpina Americana
Brooklyn Savings B%nk
transferred to reserve
Fund life membership of
50.
Allen Carp&lt;5

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$824.30
3lst

Balance to credit of
General account.

300,28

fl,124.58

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(01
Sheet #3
Reserve

r

Fund

1920
By Balance
3rd U
U. S. Liberty Loan Coupons

Jan 1,
May 7,
Sept.15,
March 23,

t?

IT

tt

IT

TT

If

March 22
May 6
Dec 20th

Interest at Brooklyn Savings
Bank.
Interest at Brooklyn Savings
Bank.
Life Membership G.H. Harvey Jr.
"
"
Joseph C. Smith
TT
TT
Allen CarpS

Dec. 31st

BALA. MCE

Dec.

20

$937.27
14,86
14.89

1

4.88
4.52

H

50.
50.
50.

$1126.42

Invested as follows;

3rd U. S. Liberty Loan Coupon Bond ©
cost.
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
In Bank of America

I
700.00
411.53
14.89
:

$1126.42

P
Edward Whymper Fund
1920

Jan.
March
Sept.
March

1.
19,
16f
27f

Dec.

21,

By

Balance
3rd U. S. Liberty Coupon £
IT

TT

TT

»T

TT

Interest at Brooklyn Savings
Bank
Interest at Brooklyn Savings
Bank

272.42
5.30
5*33

i:

.48

!!

.16
$285.69

Invested as follows:
3rd H. S. Liberty Loan Coupon Bond
At oost

On deposit in Bank of America
”
"
# Brooklyn Savings Bank

i

250.00
24.97
8.72
$283.69

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Sheet #4
"Liberty Endowment Fund.
Rsoeipts
1920

f

Jan.
Feb.

1
7

March

23

Dec.

21

Aug.

1

By

Balance
Coupons Aoeeunt 1*
Quebec Bond
Interest at Brooklyn
Savings Bank
Interest at Brooklyn
Savings Bank
Coupons City of Quebec
Bond.

$1113.21
25.00
8.46
2.52
i

25.00
$1174.19

Expenditures
1920
jn

Feb.

15

Dec.

31

To

New York Public Library
BALANCE

------------

50.00
$1124.19

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!!

Invested as follows;

f

City of Quebec 5% Coupon Bond
at cost
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
In Bank of America

970.00
119.19
25,00

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$1124*19
BALANCES

:

Brooklyn Savinas Bank

Bank of America
General Account
A300.28
Reserve Fund
14.89
Edward Whymper Fund
24.97
Library Endowment
25.00

411S 53
8.72
129.19

$365.14

$549.44

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�103
TH3 ALT SI OAR AIM IRQ CLUB
GAR HA I ACCOUHT

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March SO, 1981.

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KBOBIPTS

1921
j 7an» 1
' Jan.S/kareh SO
n

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Uarch 19

Balance, from 1920
Dues
f©r 1921 from 31 members
n
. 192°
Bales of Alpina Americana

§300.88
§155.00
5.0 ■

6.28

166.28
§466.56

im’iSEDITURSS
Jan 7
28
TT

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TT

L Feb. 2

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March 7
March 19

TT

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IT

30

If

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TT

30

Secretary Kxp. Stenographer
■ '7.50 &amp; postage^An. dues associated Mountain­
eering Club of orth America
Treasurer Account ostage in
1920
Secretary ixp. 100 notices
110 circulars,postage &amp;
mailing
Williams 8- Wilkins,storage
• 1.50 mailing Alpina
Americana .24$?/
Treasurer Ixp. 100 Biilheads 200 envelopes &amp;
printing

Balance to credit

Bes. rve ffunfl.
Banks
Bond

f

15.00
3.20
25.08

1.74

10.50
Sedretary Jixp. 1000 envelopes
64.50
3000 letterheads
Appalachian Mountain Club
publication Atline in Vol
25.00
XV N0.1
Jas. Stuart lowry &amp; Co. re­
newal of Pire Ins.,mdse.
S.V;. Cos?, tit. . oyal &amp; Guilford
Avos, Baltimore 1 year 700.
4.20
at «60
Williams &amp; Wilkins mailing
.60
Alpina Amor.
Roberts &amp; Co. Seor tary-J
■ 32.SO
An. Circular
Balance to credit of General Aooount

TT

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11.50

I
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193.82
§272.74

411.53
14.89
700*2!!
§1126.42

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ley
Sheet#2
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Balance to credit

1
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30

ft

TT

Edward IThymper Fund
Bank 24.97
It
8.72
Bond 250.00
1233,69

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Bank 129.19
Bond 9YQ.Q0
$lf 099.19

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�Librarians report American Alpine

Club.

Our collection of mountaineering boobs
numbers over900 volumes.
°
01cs located in Room 120 now
Recent publications of note which have been
secured are as follows:
Sir Martin Conway, Mountain Memories Funk,$5.00
D.W.Freshfield and H.F.Montao-nier Life of H.B.
de Saussure,
Longman $8.50
°
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Harold
Raeburn.
Mountaineering
Art
G.W.Young,
Mountain
Craft,Scribner^50
’^iw
Two cases of books donated by Mr. rontqffniP»
next few days from Switzerland. niev consist
_us in.the
of the German, Austrian, and Englisl/clirabing clubs P&amp;1_y °r publications
Our picture collection now comprises about 1100’photographs most
of whicn have been mounted on card board or linen for protectioA. Many
*
Mhave been secured, including one of 24 large views
of the Alps irom the Swiss Minister.
&amp;
The.Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs now numbers 41 clubs
and societies having a unifying bond in their desire to preserve our
finest scenic regions from commercial ruination. The Secretary has se­
cured from the majority of the members a very vigorous and important
response to his plea for action in the very critical situation for our
National Parks. Much newspaper and magazine publicity has been brought
about, and very effective influence has been focussed on Congressmen
and Senators. The action of clubs and their individual members, located
near threatened areas in the northwest, has been of the greatest value
in the campaignto arouse public interest. It is believed that the good
of the nation in this way alone has amply justified the creation of the
Bureau.
(Signed) LeRoy Jeffers.

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amcDhio’ait alp mg club

Annual Meeting,

he Id at the
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Public Library, 476 Yifth Avenue,
New York Jity, January 8th, 1921.

P K g S g LI T:
Messrs.

Lewis L. Delafield, President,
g. W. Brown, Vice-President,
W. Y. Bade, Western Vice-President,
W. D. Wilcox, Secretary.,
Bo Y. Seaver, Treasurer i
Barrington Putnam,
Jharles g. Y-ay,
Le Koy Jeffers,
Howard Palmer,
J. H. '"untz,
Henry P. Nichols &gt;
Henry S. Hall,
Arthur Tait,
B. S. Joins to ck,
Be Irnore Browne,
Andrew J« Gilman,
Jharles B. Sddy,
Henry S. Bryant,

Wo S. Ladd.
(President Pelafield in the chair.)
TH g JHA1KMAH:
The first business in

The meeting will come to order,
order is the report of the Secretary

of the American Alpine Llub0

I will call upon Mr. Wilcox,

the secretary.
(The secretary then p
continued: )

resented the report and

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THE SECRETARY:

Upon the death of Admiral Peary

President Delafield appointed a committee composed of
Mr, Bridgman

and Henry Bryant and myself,

• X

v«'e all

attended the funeral, and the other two gentlemen being
appointed honorary pallbearers, went to the cemetery.

A

handsome wreath was also sent in the name of the Club.
THE CHAIRMAN:
the secretary.

You have heard the report of

If there is no objection it will be

received.
The next order of business is the report of
the treasurer.
(The treasurer then presented the report.)
TUB OilAIR1.AIT:

You have heard the report, and

there being no motion the report will oe accepted ana
ordered on file.

Do you desire any information with-

respect to the report?
MR. SHAVER:

I thinit an auditing committee

should be appointed.

THE CHAIRMAN:
filed, and Mr

The report will be accepted and

Eddy and Mr. Comstock will be appointed

auditing committee.
We will now he ar

MR. JESTERS:

the report of the librarian,

Our collection of mountaineering

�!j]

'33

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books, located in thi s building, Room 120,
now numbers
over nine hundred, volumes.
This is undoubtedly the largest
collection of mountaineering literature
on the
con tinen t.
Recent publications of note which have been
secured are as follows:
r
Sir wartin Conway, mountain Memories, Funk,
D. W. Freshfield and Henry F. Montagnier, Life
of H. B. de Saussure, Longmans.
Mr. i’reshf ie Id visited our collection in tlie

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fall, remarking on the large

photographic collection

which he was much interested in, as is the Royal

if

Geographic So ciety.
Harold Raeburn

lio.untaineering Art, Stokes,

G. W. Young, Mountain Craft, Scribner.
All of these books are worthy of careful

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reading, and some of them study.
1

Two cases of books donated by Mr. H. F. Montagnier
will reach us in a few days from Switzerland.

(They

of the German,
con sist principally of publications
climbing clubs.)
Austrian and English
say
I may/the policy has been simply to gather in

practically all

books published in England and in America

on moun tain©©ring&gt;

so that we will have fairly complete

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the well known items; no u to try to gather
in very much
O- ^ie continental literatur
e
J-oreign languages, We
have quite a little group of them, hut v/e
were rather
awaiting donations from abroad than spending

the rather

limited funds in that direction.

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Our picture collection now comprises over
1,100 photographs

most of which have been mounted on

cardboard or linen for protection.

Many valuable

donations have been secured from all over the country,
including one of the twenty-four large views of the Alps
Minister, the Hon. Marc Peter,
fr om the Swi s s Amte:ss,adoT - -Sirr
whom I tooh
to our co 1 le c ti on and in ter e s ted

so the t he \vro te

back to Switzerland and secured some of these large views
that you see about the room.
-during my vacation this summer I visited many
of our club members, and members of other mountaineering
clubs, going over their photographic collections and
securing prints of different sizes, which v/e Lave mounted
so that they

are fairly practical; and we secured films

and have had enlargements made, some of which you will
see in the windows and about the room.

This is only a

hundreds which we have
very small portion of the many
They
secured since the last annual meeting of the club.
frequently, for the club
v/e re secured at low expense

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5
members are willing we should
and we have simply the

add them to the collection,

cost of enlargement,

In o ther

cases professional photographers have co-opera ted
through making special rates to us
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so that we might

represent a. region or a national park adequately.

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think we are safe in believing that the collection i s
by far the most important on this subject in North
America at this time.
The method has been to make this collection
by private donation and by gifts obtained wherever

po ssible, through begging letters and through personal
in terviews, a nd in so me caser where it is n e c e ssary
to purchase the pictures, using club fi nds for books
Councillors at

which we were authorized to do by the

the last annual meeting of the Councillors.
I would like to offer this resolution:
Resolved

that the club fund for the purchase

of books be also available for the purchase of views
for the club1 s phc tographi c collection.
I have other remarks to make in re gar a to
the associated mountaineering clubs.

Shall I make them

now?
THE CHAIRMAN:
Mr . Jeffers?

Is this motion put by you,

.

�'

'33

6

9

j

MR. JEFFERS:
MR . Cliff TZ:

Yes.

i!'

I second the mo ti on.

$

'ii

:

(The motion was
unanimously carried.)

MR • JEFFERS:

is I take it is a continuous

a.rrangemen t.

'i
i

!

I’he Bureau of Associated H oun tain e e ring
Clubs -■

i

THE CHAIRMAN:

I presume you can cover the

i

subj ect briefly?
MR, JEFFERS:

Yes.

THE CHAIRMAN:

It is very proper that you

■

should make the report.
MR. JEFFERS:

The Bureau of Associated

Mountaineering Clubs now numbers

i

!

41 clubs and
;

societies, having a unifying bond in their desire to
preserve our finest scenic regions from commercial
ruination.

The secretary has secured from the majority

!•
■

of the members a very vigorous and importa.nt respon se

1
to his plea for action in the present critical
si tua. tion

for our national parks.

Much newspaper

and. magazine publicity has been brought about and very

:

effect! ve influence has been focussed on Congressmen
and Senators.

The action of clubs and their individual

members, located near threatened areas in the Northwest,

:
$

�'I1i

'153

f

III.

I
5

7

H

has been of the

greatest value in the national campaign
1.0 arouse public interest.
It is believed that the
work accomplished for the
good of the nation in this
way alone has amply justified
THE! CHAIRMAN:
of the librarian.

I

the creation of the Bureau.

e ru o ha s he ard the r e po r t

!
I
I

c
i

A re there any observations?

MR. BRYANT:

In view of the unusual character

!■

of the gifts, I move the thanks of the club be extended
to

hi s Excel len cy, the Swi s s Arriba, s sad or.
MR. BABE:

I second the motion.

if
* '

I
(The motion was unanimously carried.)
THE CHAIRMAN:

I have had opportunity to

i ii
; ii

; i

observe the very great activity and intelligence and
;

devotiion with which our secretary, Mr. V/ilcox, and
our treasurer

Mr. Beaver, have performed their some-

what troublesome duties; perhaps more so than is known
to most of the members ol the cluo.
It involves no discrimination against onem

i |
i.

to express to our librarian the recognition of the
great intelligence and activity that he reports in
the collection of this very remarkable list, which is
due mainly to Ms efforts; and I feel that I simply
members of the club in
voice the feeling of all the
extending our

thanks to Mr. Jeffers for his services.

;
&gt;
!

i

I:

i
■

�\

f33

S

113
';
8

5

!

(Applause.)

if

I

Is there any
THE SECRETARY:

correspondence?
I have a letter from the

secretary, of the Redwoods League,
Charles E. Fay,

i

H

' 1

i

addressed to Dr.

president of the American Alpine Club.

:
l &gt;

(The letter was read.)
THE SECRETARY:

I will read the reply of

President Delafield.
(The paper was read.)
THE SECRETARY:

This list was forwarded to

■

him on February 6th.

THE CHAIRMAN:

It will be very appropriate

that some action he taken by the club upon this subject.

I
■ if

It was the view of your president that the endorsement
Hi

of thi s movexnen t

was not directly within the

corporate purposes of the American Alpine Cluo, and
for that reason its directors ought not, unless
authorized "by the mee ting of the club a c 1 ax ge,

uo
!;

commit the club as an organization to the movement.
Clearly the movement is a most useful and

i

I hope

1

public spirited one.

It is one much needed.

it will occur to some member of the club to introduce
some resolution expressing sympathy with it and
authorizing .the directors to take such action as may

i

�HH

r

'ss
n

$

9

:
;

be appropriate to co-operate with the
movement.
MB. BADE:

1 have not had. time to draw up a
- i

formal Tesolution, but

ii in point I should like to

offer this as a res°lution, which would express the
interest of this club and its approval of the project
to set aside

in the shape of a national park one of

those vast areas on the Pacific Coast.

:

.'I
J

I had occasion

last year to visit the area in the neighborhood of
Bull Creek

and while I had seen practically all the

big trees in California I came away with a new thrill,
because I believe that in Bull Creek, in the
comparatively small area of perhaps five or ten
thousand acres

there are unquestionably the tallest
ii

trees in the world.

While the

is probably the largest I
is the highest tree.

Sequoia gigan tea is

think the Sequoia sempervirens

■

There is very little doubt th.au

there are some trees ther p four hundred feet nigh.

■

I would like to move that the American

Alpine Cluh approves the policy of setting aside a
selected

area for a national or state park for the

preservation of the

TUP CHAIldlAlT:
BR . COHTZ:

l

redwoods of California.
Is the motion seconded?

I second the motion♦

(The motion was

unanimously carried.)

V

�■

i

Pi!

33

i IS-

!

;
,

10

'
i

THE CHAIRMAN:

■

Is there a ny other

t
1

correspondence?
- X

TliF SECRETARY:

^ i

I nave here a letter from

Mr. C. E. Rudd, president Gf the
Cascadians.
I have here a very elaborate and apparently
interesting program of what they expect to do.
MR . CUNTZ:

Mr. President, would it be in

order for us to take any formal action on the question
of the national parks?
THE CHAIRMAN:
in order,

I think it would be entirely

but will you withhold any motion until the

order of genera 1 business?
MR . CUH TZ:

I

Yes, sir.

THE CHAIRMAN:

I

Is there any further

correspondence?
;

THE SECRETARY:

I have a letter from Mr.

Roger V/. Tw, enclosing two blueprints; 1 u may be
I;

interesting to look them over; I will hand the bluepr-ints around.
THE CHAIRMAN :

t

'

\ye will now have the report

of the nominating committee.
JUDGE PUTNAM:

While the club under the

incorporated body
wr i t ten con s ti tu ti on also became an
of Pennsylvania, and under
of the State
under the laws

i

�&gt;&gt;£S£.-.y

'“~9*

//6
11
those provisions the term of our officers; and directors
is strictly limited to one year, in order to extend
the term and to comply, the committee report in favor
of the re-election of the present hoard of directors
and officers for the further term of on e ye ar.
THE CHAIRMAN:

Unless there he objection

the report will he received.
nominations?

Are there any further

A motion will he entertained that the

secretary he authorized to erst one ballot for the reelection of the officers and directors for the ensuing
year.
JUDGE PU filT Al.T:
m. BADE:

I s o mo ve .

I second the motion.

THE CHAIRMAN:

Notion has b^en put and

seconded that the present directors and officers of
the club he re-elected for the term of the ensuing
year, and that the secretary cast one ballot for the
election of the present sfcfhakk directors and ofi icers
for the ensuing- year.
The secretary reports that he has cast one
ballot and that all of the directors and officer s
have been re-elected for the ensuing year.

We are fortunate in having with us this
afternoon for the first time in many years our western

�II7
12
vi c e~ pr e s i den t,
Bade

a very distinguished

which fact is

man, Professor

singulerly

gratifying to the
officers and direc tor s
as v/ell as the entire
membership,
and I deem it a min en tly
pr o pe r that he,
being with us,
should preside over our
meeting; and I
accordingly
request that Professor
Bade take the chair*
(^ice- president Bade in
the chair.)
TIP" GHAlRMAHr:
Hay I say that it is a very
rare pleasure and privilege for me to be here? I
unders ^and that up to this time you have had only
one
of our western representatives here, the late John
Muir, hut I believe even ho was unable to attend one
of your regular meetings.
I am particularly grateful to ny friend,
.Judge Putnam, that he by an early telegram imde it
possible for me to attend and participate in this
meeting as well as that of to-night.
May I ask whether there are further reports
from corami ttees?
MK. PALMER:

Mr. Chairman, Mr. Wilcox and

myself were appointed a coramittee to prepare resolutions
upon the

decease of Major Robert

and the formal resolutions you
in the secretary's report.

Hollister

0 hapman,

have heard read to you

In submit ting these it

'3

�13

seemed to me

aPpropriat p to add
possibly &amp; few
personal
remarks, that would not
naturally fall

formal terms of those

within the

resolutions,

First I would allude
to hi s e xtr ao r d in ary
devotion to this club.
Although elected
secretary in
1517, owing to his military duties
he had not been
able to be present at an annual
meeting until that of
1920, the routine dutie
s of his office having been
pe r fo r med by a sub s titu te in Washington.

V/hi le on

duty at Camp Humphries in the winter of 1918
!

he

contracted influenza, and only in the spruio and
of 1919 did he begin to convalesce.

summer

About this time

he received his discharge from active duty, and at
once turned energe tically to the business of the club.
The present issue of the club booklet was edited and
published then.

Despite the most beneficial results

of a vacation in the Canadian Rockies in 1919 he
appears not to have entirely shaken off this treacherous
malady, which manifested itself in mild form several
times during the fall,

Just before the last annual

meeting the customary symptoms
would not fail the club for a
caution to the winds
Washington,

returned,

but he simply

third time, and throwing'

he made the journey here from

trusting to carry

through on his nerve and

�«r

14
to recuperate later.

T t seerns only

Proper that the

dub generally should, know
as those of us
personally associated
known it.
day after the meeting
later he passed away,

pneumonia developed

The

and a week

January lith, 1920.

Major Chapman was widely known
as a geographical engineer through hi

s connection with the

United States Geological Survey, which he joined as
a youth of fourteen years

and served continuously for

over thirty years thereafter.

11 e did map work for the

Survey in the Adircndacks of New fork, in the Hoc kies
near butte, Montana

in the Sie rra s of Ca 1 if ornia , and

in the feath Valley region of California and Nevada.
The latter work was noteworthy by reason of the difficult desert conditions overcome.

In the Taft Admin-

istration he had charge of Glacier National Park,
which he also mapped#

Other states where he did sur-

veying, largely t riangulation
New Mexico, Texas

are the following:

Virginia, Colorado

West Virginia

Arizona , Wyoming and Pennsylvania .
In 1909 and 1910, at
Canadian Geological Survey,

the request of the
waS

detailed to Ottawa for

American methods of surveying
the purpose of introducing
of Vancouver
The t riangula t ion
and mapping.

WsSmm

�15
Island was initiated under hi
In 1915 he

direction.

explored the Big Bend

of the

Columbia Kiver in British

Columbia, and in 1919 the
region southwesterly from Yellowhead
Pass.
During the war,
as a major of engineers
(Reserve Corps) he was as sis tant
to General Theodore
Bingham in connection with
the defenses of Hew York
City and the production 0. aeroplane maps.
He was an enthusiastic mountaineer and a
skilful cartographer.

Among nis writings are many

bulletins published by the Governments of the United
States and Canada, as well as scientific and descriptive
articles.

He was unremi tting in his efforts to bring

about the creation of Glacier national Park, where he
was one of the very early visitors.
The f0rma 1 ix resolutions Mr. V/i 1 c o x has
already read, and they have been passed so that I will
close the report.
TKK CHAIHllAW:
to take ?

Is there any action you wish

I suppose it is not necessary.
HR. PA HOIK :

embodied in the minutes

The idea was that it would be
of the club, along with the

have here.
formal resolutions whi ch we
That will be done, then.
1HR CHAIRMAN:

�5gjP^

16
Is there any other
Report?
DR. NICHOLS:
Judge Putnam

thinks that the

program for the

evening is very full,
ana while we
had the permission of the
board of directors to
introduce the minute

on Archdeacon Stuck

if there is no °"bj e ction I will

this evening,

introduce it now and

Judge Putnam will •‘second it,
and it will not be
repeated
then.

uhis evening)

;,e have a great deal before us

I was requested to prepare this minute by the

board of directors at a pr-vious meeting.
The Rev, Hudson Stuck, D.'D. Archdeacon of
Alaska

who died at Port Yukon, October, 1920, a life

member of the American Alpine Club, deserves at our
hand s

most honorable and grateful recognition.
Archdeacon Stuck qualified for membership

along all three lines of qualification:
Pirst, he had made a high mountain ascent,
that of Mount McKinley (which he persistently preferred
to call Mount

Denali, its native name,) the first

ascent, succeeding when o^nei
bringing to bear not only
a. knowledge

conquest.

mountaineers had failed,

ability and enthusiasm but

of local-conditions, which gave him the
of the Archdeacon
11 wa s characteristic
loved pupil, Walter Harper, a native

that he bade his

�17
Alaskaa Indian

step befor ^ him end be
the first to
place his foot on the highest
point in horth America.
Second, he conducted
many explorations in
Arctic regions under the impulse
of both mission ary
and scientific interest.
His last' was a winter circuit
of our Arcti c coast in 1917-19J.8,
oc cupying six rnon ths,
and raanif e s ting the most intelligent and
per sis tent
devo tion.
Third , his contribution to the literature
and science of mountaineering is of great permanent
value.

His four volumes of Summer and Winter Excursions

in Alaska are masterpieces along the line of interests
for which our club stands.

A very characteristic and

charming feature of these volumes is his treatment of
questions suggested by his travels, such as dogs,
reindeer, attitude toward primitive races, living off
the country, etc.

These excursions into other fields

constitute valuable essays of themselves, und exnioiu
frozen
bo tli a wide range of reading and hours in the
midnight North, given by most travellers to vacuity,
•devoted by the Archdeacon to valuable tbought.
Evenings after arduous days last!ng into
the night and blizzard bound days

. in comfortless huts

were given to the reading
feeble
light,
with only a

�11
/•

i

115
18
of great poets and
merits with his

essayists and discussion of

pupil, Walter Harper.

The cluh makes re cord

r&gt;

their

appreciation of the life

&gt;

gratefully of its deep

and work of Archdeacon Stuck.

I move the adoption of that minute.
JUDGE PUTNAM:

I rise to second the resolution

and I would not venture to add anything to That has "been
so fitly and beautifully phrased, except to speak of
a certain singular capacity on the part of the Archdeacon,
both as a writer and one who canr before us, as I
think he attended two meetings in this club, and
always to our great enjoyment.
I am going to remind you of the way he
described the end of the ascent of DenPvli, the final
conquest, which I think is rather different from the
way most Alpine writers set forth their achievements.
Here is the beginning*
"Walter (referring of course to Walter
Harper), who had been in the lead all day, was
a native Alaskan, he
the first to scramble up;
, .
+n Set foot upon the top
i s the first human oemg to se
, and he hau well
Of Alaska's great mountain
distinction. Kars ten ancl

earned the lifelong

Tatum were hard upon

:

his heels, hut the last nan

�19
on the r°Pe in hi

s enthusiasm and
exci tement

somewhe t ov^
rPassing his narrow wind
margin, had
a 1 mo s t to Id e hauled
up the las t few feet, and
fell unconscious for
a mo men t upon the floor of
the little snow h sin that
occupies the top of
the mountain.M
I know of im uy occasions whe n
we reach the
summit the other fellow stands back and lets the
leader
be the first one.
drawn up,

He remained

allowed himself to be

and gave the honor to thi s young man not

then twenty-one.
After • rds Harper was sent to this country,
the State of Massachusetts, as a student.
correspondence, and I jus t wis&gt;

I had some

to read from a portion

of the Archdeacon* s letter of the 11 oh of December,
1918.

This is in reference to his latest book, A

Journey of Six Months in the Arctic Circle.
"Scribners have asked me for a book
about my 13-st winter* s journey around the Arctic
coast of Alaska

and I am engaged upon its

production, its interest beingin that I am seeking to

memorial to my companion
j ourneys

the more poignant

make it incidentally a
of that

, Walter Harper, who was

and many

d rowne d with the

�US
20
Princess Sophia, foundered in the Lynn Canal
wi th
her entire company of 350 souls.

He was the

strongest, gentlest, cleanest young man I have
ever known, and had become almost a son to rne,
so that his tragic death on his way out to enter
college, as soon as it appeared that there would
be no need for him in the army

has been a grea.t

blow to me •"
How that last book is different from the book
on the Yukon.

In that book he dedicates it to his

three companions, Walter AAarper being the first named,
but the final took is dedicated to Walter Harper alone,
and nearly the same words used, 11 as the strongest,
bravest, cleanest young man I have ever known."
I think this accounts in no slight degree
for the wonderful inter, sf that the people of Alaska
had in their great Archdeacon

figure to

who will remain a

them for future generations.
THE CHAIRMAN:

I am sure we are all grateful

had brought to our
f o r having opportunity to have
who s e memory ought to
conduct
of
a
man
attention the
for any organisation to
is
splendid
It
live with us.
of
knowledge and memory
the
traditions
have inits
conduct like that.
EBP

�21
You have heard the motion.
seconded,

All hose in favor please

It has been
saY aye.

(The motion was
unanimously carried.)
THE CHAIRMAN:

Are there any fir the r reports*?

Is it proper to mention the fact
a.lso that

another one of our members

as I understand it, has

passed on during the course of the year?
MRHSIMEHT DELAPIELD:
proper

It is proper, eminently

that mention should be made of the fact that

Rear-admiral

Peary, one of our members

has also died

dur i ng the pa s t ye ar.
It was my privilege to have known him and
to have known him intim- tely for twenty years.

He

7/as a man of absolute courage, great intelligence,
and in short a man among rnen.
I have not prepared myself to deliver any
eulogy upon him, and I speak simply in order that
when these other splendid men who have died during
shall not be
the past year are mentioned, his name
forgotten•
A record has

already been made upon the

minutes of the directors
and I leave any

7&amp;ith respect to his death,

formal resolution

PROR • f AY:

at this time.

I would like to

add just a word

�22

wit;: regard to Admiral

Peary.

% reco1lection
Alpine C lu b me e ting

goes beck to ike initial

in Washington in 1902.

P o 8 3 i bly

some of us may have

lost sight of the
fact
cna u uhe clu o hag three
special reasons for being,

having put in the fore Alpinism
in the background

and keeping somewhat

po-lar exploration and the intense

study of glacial geology.
At that initial meeting I think it is safe
to say that polar exploration was more in evidence
than Alpinism, a nui we had. present at that meeting
what certainly a c the time was perhaps the most re mar kable gathering of polar explorers that could be found
in any country.

That has been questioned, some

people thinking that possibly

England could have

gathered a. greater number, but on one side of the
presiding officer sat Melville, on the other dreeley;
Peary was present, and several of those who had
conducted relief expeditions.

I do not k&amp;ow but that

still others whose names I have

not mentioned in

connection with

direct exploration were there.

Certain it is that the oody

represented tne largest

amount of Arctic suffering that
together at any table.

could have been brought

�Admiral P eary, then if j

23
remember Cornmander

Peary, was interested in the club,
I think joining
at first as an ordinary member

and afterwards he was

made an honorary member

of the club.

ine last time that Admiral Peary
appeared
at one of our meetings was
possibly two or maybe
three years ago, when he
came with McMillan; we had
both as our guests on the occasion of
our Boston
meeting, he speaking at our dinner on a subject that
seemed somewhat remote from his usual one, for he was
emphasizing the great importance of an aerial navy
for the protection of the country, the same vigor, the
same profound interest shown in the new subject
although I believe he was then suffering somewhat
from the disease that finally carried him off.
Certainly we have every reason to be proud
of having numbered him among our early and always
in tere s ting members •
THE CHAIRMAN:

Is there any nirther business

to come before the meeting?
MR. BRYANT:

I have the honor of having

represented the Alpine Club at the funeral of Admiral
Peary, and I can also
friendship and as

add the testimony of many years

sociation with Mm in some of his

mm

SSI

�24
northern work,

that has been

eloquently referred to

by our president and ex

-President Pay; and I rne r e ly

rise at this time to

say that I would like to have
embodied in the minute s of this
meeting the fact of
the death of one of our Pacific Coast members,
Mr.
Charles A. Giichristj who Wag ^
son of a famous

■

pastor still living in Philadelphia

a man who had a

varied career in the Philippines, a mas oer of the art
of photography,

a man who has reached in his journeys

the foothills of the

Himalayas as well as the great

volcanoes of Mexico and who contributed to various
j ournals

a high type of mountaineer; and I think this

club has a real loss in the death of my townsman,
Mr . Gilchrist.
THE CHAIRMAN :

By common consent we will

have that also made a part of our minutes of today* s
meeting.
Is there anything further to come before you?
I think it would be proper to fo rim late the
the present
policy of this organization with regara to
I think that
danger in which our n a ti on a 1 P &amp;r 1c s a r e.
well phrased what we regard as
our secretary has very

the policy of

this organization, ’out porwps yon will

wish to introduce a resolution•
tow.

�35
PKKSimrr UELAJIELD;
he very appropriate
be adopted.

Has

1 should think it
would

Mr . Chairman,

that such

a resolution

one been drawn?

nil1. CHAlHivIAbl I

i have to confess that the
duty was laid upon rne by the
se eretary, and I probably
should have drawn up such a resolution.
I put something on paper here which
perhaps will go better with
your suggestions:
RESOLVED,

that it is the sense of the

American Alpine Club that it express the policy of
ho Iding our na ti o na 1 pr kr; and monument s in vi o la te
agains t commercial proj ects such as those which are
now pending before Congress in the case of the
Yellowstone ITational Park.
I thought it might be well to make specific
reference.

I think it might possibly be better to

draw a. more general ^solution and leave out the specific
reference.

I will leave that to your suggestion.
PRESIDENT DE LAP I ELD:

in so doing, may I suggest as an
of the words 11 and that it be

I second that; but
amendment the addition

referred to the board of

of the
directors to take such steps in furtherance
they may
policy embodied in this resolution as
deem proper.11

�'flip] G HAIRMAJET;

1 WariQly accept

suppose it is not Proper for the
this as a motion.

that.

I

President to make

1 shall be glad to
entertain a
motion on this point.
PROP. .FAY:

I mo ve the adoption of
that

resolution.
luH . TAIT:

I second the motion,

(The motion v/a s

unanimously carried,)

THE CHAIRMAN:

Is there anythin &amp; further

to come before the meeting?
MK. JFFFKKS:

hay I inquire whether there

is anything to be done, you will be the one to inform
us

with regard to the very serious situation in

California in reference to the national parks, as it
thre■ tens our very finest scenery?
THE CHAIRMAN :

I cannot suggest anything

to be done just now, except to support the bills which
have been introduced to eliminate from iederal
fail to
which*protect
the national parks and
enactment clauses
national monuments,

I understand two or three bills

have been introduced, and. there is piorision

}j one

, which
of them, if carried, and I think it will carry
will immediately eliminate tne dengei*

�27

Is there anything further?

if not I shall

ready to entertain a motion to adj oum.
THE SECRETARY:

I have a little illustrated

bgrchure here, signed "by Baron C-abet Pres.
°f the Club
Alpin of France,
■Belgium, turned over to the American Alpine Club in
rny care.

I will turn it over to the librarian.

Meeting adjourned«,

A

'\

�mm

823

£•*&gt;

te3
minutes of

THE MEETING of thu

BOARD of directors

AT THE OFFICE OF PRESIDENT DELAFIELD

A meetingof the Directors of the

IN NEW YORK CITY.

American Alpine Club was held

»“ SatUrday’ April S&gt; 1921, at the off,ce

of Lewis

the President of the Club, Ho. so
Now York, s.t uwelve o*clock

L* Delafield,

Exchange Place, in the
City of
noon, pursuant to due
notice *

The President laid before the Board the
following candidates for membership

applications of the

in the Club:

Williams, proposed by Mr. Howard Palmer,
L. Stimson;

held April 2, 1921,

Mr# William

and seconded by Mr. Henry

Mr*. Henry Herbert Goddard,

proposed by Professor
Ernest W.Brown and seconded by Mr. George Vaux, Jr,;
Mr. Nathan C.
Byeth, proposed by Mr. Halter D. Vttleox, and seconded by Mr. Henry
0. Bryant, together with various letters affecting the qualifiestions of such candidates.
Upon motion of Mr. Seaver, it was resolved that, upon consideration, it appears to the Board of Directors that the qualifi­
cations of Messrs. William Williams, Henry Herbert Goddard and
Nathan C. Wyeth,who have been duly nominated for membership in the
American Alpine Club, are sufficient, and that the Secretary be
requested to proceed, as prescribed by Section 7 of the By-Laws,
to mail a copy of the nominations of such candidates, respectively.
to all active members of the Club, with a statement tnat, in the
judgment of the Board of Directors, such candidates appear to be
. -nns of such By-Laws,
qualified under the provision.
_
a communication from Mr • How ard
The President prese
Of the climber's Guidebook
^almer with regard to the manus
to the Canadian Rockies and a raem°

of points to he embodied

it an agreement between the American Alpine Club and Messrs, H.

�palmer and J • M. Thorington,

ft

covering publicatio

Guide to the Canadian Rockies.

a ox a Climber's

Upon motion of Rev. Dr

o Nichols, it was
resoled that
Professor Charles E. Pay, Mr. A.
H. MacCarthy, Mr* Walter D. Wiiccx
and Mr. Henry C-. Bryant, be
appointed a Committee, for the
purpose
of examining the proof of the Climber
s Guide to the Canadian
Rockies, prepared by Mr. Howard Palmer and Dr.
J. M. Thorington,
and that, upon the approval of such
proof "by the said Committee,
or by a majority of such of them as can act thereon, the said
book be adopted as a publication of the American Alpine Club,
upon the conditions specified in Mr. Palmer*s communication, and
RESOLVED FURTHER, that, upon the a pproval of the said book
by the said Committee, the Treasurer be, and he hereby is, auth­

ft

orized to pay the cost of the publication thereof, not exceeding
$550.00 from the funds of the Club, and that if the general funds
of the Club prove insufficient for that purpose, that he may
borrow such moneys as may be necessary from the reserve fund, and
officers be

RESOLVED FURTHER, that appropriate

and they are hereby authorized, in the name and behalf of the
Club, to enter into such agreements, or to take such other action
as may be necessary or appropriate, to effectuate the object of
this resolution.
The President presented a communication from the President
of the Comite International Olympique* inviting the American
delegates to the
Alpine Club to be represented by one or more
Olympic Congress and Conference of 1921 at Lausanne.
Henry F. Montagnier and

I

Thereupon it was resolved that Mr.

f the American

delegates ox
Mr. J °seph
~
Cooke Smith, be appointed as

nr? i
vr--

�isr
Alpine Club, to attend the
Alpine
Conference to be held
nection with the 01ympic
in con-

Congress and

Conference °f 1921, at
Friday , May 27th,
and Saturday,
and that such delegates so
May 28th,
appointed be
requested to attend
Conference, if they can
such
conveniently do SOe
Lausanne, Switzerland, on

There being

adjourned.

no further business. the

feting was then

;

c
1

it

•

1

*

t

�STOCK ACCOUNT
BOCKY MOUNT Alii ®IDE BOOK,
Copies Printed
Sent as'reported1^ ?hf
Copies are owed to Prof v

---- 500

Standi»g
Z ~------------- ---------

Donald B. McMillan, who’ar^ 1
and
u 01 the country.
Authors' Copies:
J. M. Thorington
H. Palmer - - -

7
5

Library of Congress for copyright- Sent Honorary Members as follows:
J. N. Collie-----------------------------A. V?. Greely- --------Douglas Ereshfield- -----Duke of Abruzzi -------Martin Conway ---------

James Bryce ---------W. H. Workman --------Mrs. Workman- --------A. P. Coleman ---------

92

12

c

2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

9

Due Honorary Members as follows:
W. A. B. Coolidge, Baron Gabet,
Ernest Shackleton.
Review copies sent as follows:
1
Editor Canadian Alpine Journal- - - - _
IT
1
English Alpine Journal - - - - ff
1
Royal Geographical Society - - Tf
1
American Geographical Society- T1
Philadelphia Geographical Society- 1
Tf
Appalachian Bulletin -------1
ff
1
Sierra Club Bulletin -----Tf
1
H.Y. Evening Post Outing Page- 1
Tf
"Mountaineer” ---------1
tt
B. C. Mountain Club- -----1
librarian American Alpine Club- - - - Sample copy sent Book Jobber in Toronto- - copies sold to date ------------------------------------

Copies paid for to date ---------Total oopies sent out -----Imperfeot copies returned to
Publisher for repair - - - -

11
1
24
22

151
10
161

Copies on hand

539

!

j

�iMaHHE
13?

!

Report
On
EXPENSE OP PUBLICATION
Of
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountain

8 0 f C anada .

Publishing;
Typesetting
Extra Corrections
Cuts

Publishers reduced this to
Engineer, lettering, and drawing maps

?733.75
128.50
50.00
90672!)

c

900.00
15.00

$915.00

9.00
18.50

87.50

Wrapping:
500 Manilla Envelopes &amp; printing same
650 Cut Sheets Corrugated Board
Ciroular Announcements:

Printing 1500 Letters
Printing in red on 150 copies
700 Envelopes and printing same

15.75
1.50
8.00

25.85

Miscellaneous:

Printing 500 Errata Sheets
Printing 500 Postals
Telephone Calls (IT.Y.) estimated
Express on 100 copies for club members
Express on case of 400 books

5.25
3.75
15.00

.75
3.26

28.00
$995.75

�... TUB AMET?Tn aw

QT.rro

Tn account with Bcnj. p _» Saavff x'

m

general ACCOUNT

RECEIPT1 n

J&amp;C*

1,
1,

to
Oct*
liar.
Apr*
juiy

13,
19,
10,
12,

Sept*

13,

By
TT

Balance from 1920. .
Annual due a for 1921

* * e&gt; a

•* • *

"
"
" 1920 for 65 members,§325.
2
"
10.
1919
1
"
Sales off Alpina Americana,
5.
ti
n
&gt;t
i,
5.28
,83
Transfer from Reserve Fund.
300.
fra« Brooklyn Savings Bank.
Sal© Alpina Americana,
1.80

?T

$300.28

,c

648.91
1949.1?

EXPENDITURES.
1921.
Jan.

7,

To

28,

I "

28.

TT

28,

Feby.

28,
2.

15,
Uar,

7,
19,

Apr,
%

14,
12,

TT

Secretary's Expenses-Stenographic work .:§n 50
&amp; stationery &amp; postage,-Club list. ’ ’ ?
0
Annual dues Bureau of Associated
Mountaineers of North America,
15. OC
Treasurer's Expenses-postage stamps
in 1920,............... ................ T..........
3.20
Secretary's Expenses - Roberts Co.,notices, ci ratal are, postals and
25.08
addressing, ............... ..............................
1.74
Williams A- Wilkins - mailing Alpina,
T reaeu ro r' s Exp ens e s, 0 i 11 -he ad s and
10.50
envelopes printed, ..............................
Secretary's Expenses, - Roberts Co.
1000 Envelopes)
64.50
550C0 letterheads)'*' “ *
Appalachian Mountain Club-publishing
25.00
Alpina Americana, ................... ..
Lowrie Co* - renewal insurance in
4.20
Baltimore, $700.- 1 yoar, .........
Williams &amp; Wilkins—mailing Alpina
.60
Americana, .......
Secretary's Expens os - Roberts co.32.50
150 Annual circulars, -------2.00
Treasurer's Expenses--postage stamp
"
Exchange in out-of-town
.60
Cil6ClC, ••••••••••

^ne

Williams &amp; Wilkins,-storage on
Alpina, ■••»••••
Mailing Alpina, # «

I

.75
.49

1.24
8.0C

8,

Secretary's Expenses
j
Telegram to uov.^tophe
California,.......

1.30.

-------"206.96

�_a£i
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The American Alpine JJlub.

f

:
'

In A/c with Ben j . F* Seavert _ T ro a sura r *

r

&lt;

i

General Account•

I
EXPE1H) IT TOES.
c

1921.

■

June
8,

15,
20,

July

12,

Sept.

13,

!1

e

13,
13,

Oct.

18,

Brought forward,.
Brought forward,.
Roberts Go., - ISO notices,
Bureau of Associated Mountaineering
Club--postage, ..................
Howard Palmer on a/c of Climbers'
. e

Guide Book, ............................. ..
Knickerbocker Press a/c of Climbers I
Guide Book,.........................
Williams &amp; Wilkins storage, « #
m
mailing.
Alpina Americana.
t!

Williams &amp; Wilkins,-mailing Alpina
Americana, .. .. ................
Appalachian Lit.Club pub^,
Alpina Americana,Vol*'^XV-TT,........
Balance to credit of General A/c,..

3

,'206.96
|&gt; 9.50

949.1
]

1.60
250.GO
300.00
.75

.14
.55
25. OC

794.6
•1154.!

wmammmsmmmm

�ill
New York

City. k. y.,

!

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!

October 18, 1921.
I

THE AMERICAN AIBT he CLUB*

¥
1921
Oct*

:

Reserve Fund
Balance
^liberty bonds$700.)

5
$856.17

—fa '

- "J'O

Edward Whymper Fund
Oot. 18

Balanee
(liberty bonds $250*)

294.31

library Endowment Fund

Oot. 18

i

Balance
1124.19
^City of Quebec bond flOOOi)

c

�vmuA

/w

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minutes of a meeting of the council
held

OCT.1STH AT THE OFFICE OF

OF THE A M ERIC AN A L PINE

president DELAFIELD

CLUB

i

IN NEE YORK CITY.

A meeting of the Council

oi the American Alpine Club
was held
in New York City on Oct. 18th 1921 at
the office of
President Delafielc
The' meeting was called to order
au three-thirty P.M. There
were present the following; Lewis L. Delafield, Benjamin F,
Seaver, Rev. Harry
p. Nichols, T.T[enry K. Bryant, Howard Palmer,
Walter D. Wilcox and by
invitation Mr, Leroy Jeffers„

S

■

is

Announcement was made by the Secretary of the election of five
new members, Messrs Chamberlin,Goddard, Toll, Williams and Wyeth. The

:

following new candidates were brought before the Council and approved
!(!'

as qualified to be brought before the Ciub for election: Mr. Joel E.
Fisher, proposed by Howard Palmer and seconded by Leroy Jeffers, Mr.
■

;

Henry B. de Villiers-Schwab, proposed by Howard Palmer and seconded
by Lewis L Delafield, and Mr. Edward Mallinckrodt Jr. proposed by
Professor Bade and seconded by Professor Colby.
Mr» Palmer made a brief report on the publication of the new
"Climbers Guide to the Rockies of Canada" as to difficulties in the
work of preparation, unusual expenses etc. In this connection the use
of the Reserve Fund was discussed and the Secretary was requested to
make a report on same.

II

resolution be passed
Rev. Harry P , Nichols suggested that a
valuable work in preparing the Guide and
^banking Mr. Palmer for his
and effort and was an indication
said that it had required much time
cordially
were alive. Mr? Bryant
we
to the members of the ^lub that

�:

seconded the resolution and said
also the name of Dr. Thorington.

ohat he desired

to have included

Delafield said that the

resolu-

tion was very appropriate, it was passed
unanimously,
In further discussion it was
brought out that none of the
plates were stereotyped but that the type was kept set
up at a slight
rental charge. The view was expressed that the book
must be handled
even.
a report showing a balance
of $154.59 to credit of general account. This report was ordered to be
placed on file.
The matter ol the iannual Meeting and dinner was then taken
up and it was indicated that there was a desire on the part of some
of the members of the Club to hold the meeting in Boston. The ^ecretary was directed to communicate with Professor Fay and then appoint
a committee on arrangements.
A letter from Mr. Montagnier who had been appointed a delegate to the Alpine Conference in connection with the Olympic Congress
and Conference of 1921, at Lausanne May 27th &amp; 28th 1921, representing
the American Alpine Club, was read. The main points of this letter
to decide the winner
were the decision to leave the choice of the jury
in the hands of the Olympic Comof the Olympic Alpine prize entirely
that "the jury ought to
mittee and also the expression of the opinion
character of the achievtake into consideration not only the sportin0
scientific and utilimeats submitted to its judgement, but also their
was approved by the counThe
action
of
Mir.
Montagnier
tartan value.n
cil.
with regard to
A letter from professor Fay

certain discrimi-

1
1!

;;

!
i!

;

?

�133
nation against the a.A.c.

news item j.n

Dr. Nichols.

Appalachi a was referred to

The Secretary read a part of a

:

report made by Mr. Val Fynn
courteously loaned
him, with regard to the
Dr. Stone tragedy on Mt. Eon last
July. A selection of
photographs
made by Edward Feuz the swigs
guide was also
shown. After the reading
of the article hr. Delafield appointed
a committee to examine into
the Stone tragedy and prepare such resolutions
as might be proper
and also to collect a fund for the
guides and others who had performed meretorious service in the rescue of Mrs Stone and the
recovery of
Dr. StoneTs body. The members of this
committee were, Mr. Delafield
for the Alpine Club, and

Chairman ex-offcio, Kr. Wilcox chairman, Mr. Palmer, and hr. Seaver.
The Secretary was instructed to communicate with the Alpine club of

r

Canada and find out the disposition of the funds collected under the
so called Memorial Fund.
Mr. Jeffers reported as to the disposition of collection of
of books in the Public Library, the stamping of plates with the seal
of the library and also as to the mounting of photographs,

:

I

f

meeting was adjourned at six-thirty P.M.

The

�/4W
/

■IS-LJ^^RIOAH ALPTr.ii?.
IHJjgaount with Beni.

CLUB
——Server. Tre asurer

OEHERAL ACOOimm
RECEIPTS
1921

r

I u*jan.
! Ss«T

1
31

j

By

Balance from 1920
Dues from 66 active members
for 1921

#300.28

Duos from 1 member 1919
2
1920
J&amp;n#
Dec#
July 12

330.00
5.00
10.00

(Sales of Alpind Americana9.76
less com.
Transfer from Reserve Fund in
Brooklyn Savings Bank(loan)
300.00

f

#955.04
EXPENDITURES
1921
Jan. 7
28

28
28

i

n

28
28

• Feb 2
15

L$ Moh.

7

To Secretary's Stenographer &amp;
posting Club last
To annual dues Bureau of Asso­
ciated Mountaineering Clubs of
Do, America
To Treasurer,postage stampsin(192o
To Secretary's a/c - Roberts Co.
Printing notices,circulars
&amp; postage
To Williams &amp; Wilkens Co. Storage
July/Jany
To Williams &amp; Wilkens Co. Postage
Americana Alpina
To Treasurer's a/c, printing bills
&amp; envelopes
To Secretary's a/c - 1,000 enve­
lopes - 2000 letter heads
To Appalachian Mountain Club

published* "Alpina" in
Appalacnia Vol. XV part 1

11.50
15.00
3.20
25.08

1.50
.24
10.50
64.50

25.00

�I'W'
1,’ch.

19

Eowry &amp; Co. 1 i -re Insu ranee Rrem.
#700 - 1 year - rate .60

19

Williams &amp; 'Wilkens Co. postage
Alpinfc-

.60

April 14=

To Secretary’s a/c - RoberUCo.
150 - an. circulars

32.50

To Treasurers a/c - disbursements
stamps 2.00 exchange on checks: .60

m 12

To Williams &amp; Wilkens Co. storage to
4/15/21
To W. &amp; W. Co. postage on Alpina
To Secretary’s disbursements
postage ------8.00

june 4
8

teleg to
Gov Stephens
15

2.60

.75
.49

9.30

1.30

120 notices
Roberts &amp; Co.
Bur. of Assoc. Mountaineering
Clubs of Ko. Amer. postage
on bulletins to members

8

9.50
1.60

Howard Palmer 1st payt. on a/c
Climbers' Guide Book

250.00

July 12

Knickerbocker Press 2nd payt
on a /c Climbers1'Guide Book

300.00

Sept. 13

Williams &amp; Wilkens Co.
Storage to 7/15/21
Postage on Alpina

20

21

.75

.14

Williams &amp; Wilkens Co.
postage on Alpina

. 65

Oot. 11

Appalachian Mountain Club
publishing Alpina Vol. XV
part II - Aug. 1921

Nov. 25

Treasurer's a/c postage
exchange on checks

30

25
1

4.20

Dee. 31

1.00
.40

Bank of America exchange

Williams &amp; Wilkens Co.
Storage to 10/15/21
Gen’l a/c
Balance to credit of

25.00

1.40
.10
.75

'796.85
158.19
955.04

�1tm

GUIDES FU1ID
Dr. Stone's Accident
Subscriptions

1 person subscribed

i

1

ir

8

IT

7

$2.00

IT

s

18.00

IT

( Q&amp;•

nj&gt;5 • 00 )

40.00

II

M

ea

10.00

70.00

£

IT

u

ea

15.00

30.00

2

IT

IT

ea

£0.00

40.00

6

II

IT

ea

£5.00

150.00

1

IT

11

50.00

1

IT

II

100.00

of whom five were nonmembers

$500.00

:

wSSU

�V-

Sheet 4

[

HoserTe Fund
1921

Jan. 1---- By Balance from 1920
April 15 - " Coupons 3d Lib.Loan 4^4
Sept. 30 - "
”
"
"
ti
t

' July 12 Bee. 31 -

$1126.42
14.86
14.89

To transfer to General account
BALANCE

1,156.17

300.00
856.17

Invested as follows:

i

3rd TJ.S. Lib. Loan. Coup. 4 1/4;!
at cost
$700.00
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
111.53
In Bank of America
44.64

856.17

Edward Whymper Bund
1921
Jan. 1Apr. 1!

Sept. 30

By 'balance for 19£0
TT coupon 5d U.S* Liberty Loan-)
TT

"

H

n1° )
tf

£85*69
5.30
5.32

fh aft Ouv.

£94.51

Inves ted as follows:
3rd U. S. Lib. Loan Coup. 4%$ at cost $250.00
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
" Bank of America
* -

to
i

294.31

m

�W*
IW
Sheet § J

LIBRARY ia\iDQ',iifM?.T\Tfr FUID

1921

By

Aug. 19

Balance from 1920
Coupon City of ^uebec
Bond
N

$1124.19
25.00
25.00

1174.19"

Expenditures
1921
jieb. 2

To

Dec. 31

N.Y. Public Library
4th payt.
BA LAI! CE

50.00

1124.19

Invested as follows;
City of Quebec 5% Coup.Bond
at cost
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
In Bank of America
Summary of Balances

970.00
129.19
25.00
1124.19
Brooklyn Savings Bank

Bank of America
$158.19
44.64
35.59
25.00
440.00
$ 703.42

General Account
Reserve Fund
Edward Whymper Fund
Library Endowment
Guides Fund

X &gt;bV\7 f. -' *’•&gt;

\

j

RECEIPTS—

Jan. 1
Feb. 1

:
-

$111.53
8.72

129.19
249.44

�!

.RESOLUTION tn OOIH.LENDATION of RUDOLPH AELP.1ER.
Voted At The Annual Meeting, Boston, January 7th, 1922 0
7AIEEE.AS, In the rescue on July 24th, 1921,
of Mrs. 77. 11. Stone, wife of our fellow-member,
Doctor 77. E. Stone, from the ledges of Mount
Eon, after her husband had been killed by a fall
on this peak July 17th, 1921,
RUDOLPH All HER
rendered most devoted service;’

'

THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB desires to express
to him its appreciation of nis zeal and skill in
finding Mrs. Stone, of his ability and fortitude
in carrying her for oyer ‘our hours down the
difficult mountainside 1a place of temporary
shelter, and of his subsequent return to the
mountain when he assisted for several days in
searching ‘or the body of Doctor Stone and in
removing it to safety, while exposed to grave
personal risk from falling stones;
THEREFORE, RESULTED, n hat tills resolution
be spread- upon the club records and a copy sent
to Rudolph Aemmer in token of its admiration
for his fine courage and devotion and for this
consecration of inis mountain craft to such a
beneficent use.

1

I

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RESOLUTION IN COMMENDATION OP EDWARD PEUZ.
Voted At The Annual Meeting, Boston, January 7th, 1922,
Y/H'NKEAE, In the search for and the
finding of the Body of our fellow-moubor.
Doctor Vi. E, Stone, on the cliffs of Mount
Son, August fifth, 1921,
EDWARD FEUZ
ftisplayed great ability and courage and
in the removal of the reran inn to safety,
while exposed to the danger of falling
stones, worker^ for two days with unre­
mitting devotion, regardless of personal
risk;
THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB desires to
pay tribute to his fortitude and skill
which are fully consonant with the high­
est standards of ills calling;
TlffiRBPOFii , Bn If ILLSCLVEI), That this
resolution be spread upon the records of
the club and a copy cent to Edward ?euz
in token of its admiration and esteem*

—i

�RESOLUTION in COMMENDATION of COUHAD EAIN.
V oted At The Annual Meeting Boston

January 7th

fiSKBAS, In the search for and re­
covery of the body of our fellow-member.
Doctor . . e. „ Stone, on the cliffs of
Mount Mon, August fifth, 1921,
COMB AD DUN

/

dlcplaycfl rreat shill and enterprise and
in its removal dov, . tho face of the moun­
tain worked devoted3,7 .'or two days, re­
gardless of oroonal rich, while" exposed
to the danger of falling stones;
TILL A.IIUCAU A'iPINJ: CLUB desires to
express to Lin its appreciation;
TIUlvEFORE, hZ IT RESOLVED, That this
raiiiuto be sort-ad upon the records of tho
club and a copy sent to Conrad Main in
token of its admiration for his steadfast
courage and high character a a mountaineer.

V

\

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■

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�'^mmmrnmrn
; 52

RESCKjU'XIOH 5in C OLUilHIIDAT I Oil of V/ILLIAi:
/

PEYTQ.

Voted At The Annual n
nesting, Boston, January 7th,

1922 o

WH?3’83AS, In the roscuo on July 24th, 1921, of
Mrs. !7. a, Stone, wife of our follow-member, Doctor
'.7, E, Stone, f‘’on the ledges of Mount Eon after her
husband had boon killed by a fall on this peak July
_ 17th, 1921,
'I uLXAU H5YT(
rendered valuable ? id, n 1th.,ugh rut an cuporlencod
mountain a 1inbor;
THE AIj’MOAII AITIIH: r uVJ do a ires to o::prosts to
him its appreciation op i.r zeal end sclf-oacrifioing devotion., measuring up tn the fullest sense to
what night bo expected of one v:ho, in earlier years,
was an intrepid plo-.oer of the wilderness and, as
such, contributed largely to opening up the groatplayground of the Canadi.".! Hookies as wo know them
today;
THBHKPCRE, BE IT HfhljVvEB, That this resolution
bo spread upon tlso minutes of t,iio club and a copy sent
to ’Villlara Beyto in token of its admiration and esteem.

fcu.V:

�^3
/

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RESOLUTION Ilf COMLIEilDATIOJT
OP
CONSTABLE CHAR LIS EDV.ARD POUHDEIJ.
Voted At The Annual fleeting, Boston, January 7th, 1922.
WHEREAS, In the rescue on July 24th, 1921, of
Mrs,
E. Eton, wife of our fellow-nernhor. Doctor
E. 2tone, from the ledges of Mount Eon after hor
husband had been killed by a fall on this peak July
17th, 1921;
CO!! OTA ERE CHARLES EDVARD POUEPEH
rendered valuable aid, although not an experienced
mountaineer.
THE AMERICA!! ALP I HE C ,UB desires to express to »
him its appreciation of his seal and self-sacrific­
ing devotion which fully justified the world-wide
refutation and pro at traditions of tno Canadian Poyal
northwest Mounted Police;
THEREFORE, BE IT RESOLVED, That this resolution
be spread upon the minutes of the olub and copies be
sent to Constable Pounden and to hie commandinr offi­
cer in token of the club’s admiration and esteem.

�;v

5H1IBEAL BES-'-LUTION 0? AH’BBOIMflOH.
Voted At The Annual Meeting, Boston, January 7th,

7.4»B?.31AS, ?ho Aimrloan Alpine .Club in
desirous of recognizing the courage and
devotion displayed by a number of indivi­
duals who, acting in concert, made pousible
the rcec.uo of Mrs. '.7. E. Stono and the re­
covery of the body of her husband, Doctor
J2. Stone, Milled on Mount Eon July seven­
teenth , 1921 - a iViUibo? fro-, vshom it is dif­
ficult to g tr: :ie out particular persons for
adequate no-it ion;
f\

Z!u-2'^F.il I?
That this
lio.. for Uao work of:
minute o? al.:
I

I

V •

Jack Ourrea, . oreiaun V Td 11. Gr.ng,
Mr* rank Bettorlilpo. ai\ Reno Pitten.
Ur* william Child„
Mr. Miv.ni: Oonbert.
::re
Ralph .Hint,
w elIs.
Mr.
be spread upon ti.e records of the club and
a copy hereof be sent to each,,
•i *

j

i

Si
&amp;

�/65-

Minutes of a meeting of
the Council held at Boston
in the rooms of the° Appalachian
Mountain Club on
Jan. 7th 1922.

i

;

g®

"* Pl’°fess0r F^-

Mr.

feting was cSlel

The Secretary read the minutes of the n^vinno mQQ4..

, . ,

I :

were

j:

r»ss«ri^are swaas »s*sh&amp;.

in mountain climbing. Tne question was raised by Dr. Fichol* as to the
possibility of electing Professor Lamb at once in order “hat he jLht
attend the Annual Meeting and Dinner on the same day but this was proved
to be contrary to the By-Laws.
On behalf of the committee appointed to investigate the details of
the accident to
. Stone, to adopt appropriate resolutions, and to
raise a fund for the guides and others who had performed meretorious
service in the rescue work, Mr. Palmer reported that all these items
had been completed. A report had been sent out to Members, a fund of
$500.00 had been raised and resolutions had been drafted. The resolu­
tions were read and revised. Dr. Nichols suggested that they be read at
the afternoon Meeting and also at the dinner. Professor Fay suggested
that aletter expressing pride should'be sent to Mr. McCarthy for his
part in the rescue work. It was also ordered that a similar letter be
should be written to Dr. Bell, In the discussion of the general resolution which referred to the several members of the rescue party not
specially mentioned, it v/as voted to make a special minute ±or the N.,.'.
M.P. officer Pounden and also to send copies to Pounden and his command­
ing offocers. The committee v/as directed to send out oj. the iund collec
Edward Feuz and Conrad Kain each $100.0
to be distributed In accordance
with the judgement of the committee. If same should exceed *500.00 the
reexcess might be distributed among the principal recipients. I '
solved to have neatly typewritten copies of the
guides. The Secretary read letters iron Mr. A.O
Aernmer in connection with this matter.
of the Guide Book and said
Mr. Palmer reported on the publication
of which the Club had
££ U'ZXXZ
purpose was approved.

th

Kr Palmer was authorized on motion of
Nichols, to make
special prices and arrangements as he saw m.
Professor Fay explained in
lUVTn
The°matter
the same commit tee,., with power. ^

g®^:Ltottherpublication of ar—nded fo be resubmitted to
^l
us,

t

■■■■

mm

%

�IP*gap— —

With reference to the
caiied attention to the u Annual
nection it was decided todifficult
__ . A CXi-jd©]?
the
wspeakers.
In this and
to regard him as a guest ^&amp;tPay
railroad fare of Dr. Gilmour
the
deficit be met by the Club
Dinner. It was also approved thatconany
The ecretary read a letter* r
at not being able to attend the w£ ?? Professor Badp
warmest greetings to the officers S ^ and DWr aJXPresainS regret
?f the Club, a a pA?d Presenting L
Bingham of Yale University Wa=
belonging to an organization which4 lndicating his
f?om Professor
the guides in the rescue parties inW«® lnt®rested in Ja? •“ the ldea of
dent. On motion of Judge Putnin tn connection with th« nln® a fund for
egram of greeting to »?.
i90*?*ry was directed •J-St°ne «*£
the meeting adjourned at 12-30
' There being no father busines^'

i

13
A ■

ifojk

�m
■M

fS7
AiJNUAL MEETING OP

the AMERICAN ALPINE club

Held at the Rooms of the
Appalachian Mountain Club
Boston, Mass.
Saturday, January 7, 1922
Meeting called to order at 3*k p m K ^
15,15 P-M* Ly President Delaflaid.
As the minutes of the nrev-tr.no
. .
members of the club, no further reading oftK SeVeeSssrr.
to the
■HiST* ^olepfeafleiSedl118 t™***'* report

• the previous

Moved and seconded to approve the transactions of the Council
reported
by the Secretary. Carried.
as
Report of Treasurer read and accepted.
As the Laws of the State of Pennsylvania, under which the
American Alpine Club is incorporated, provides that the Board of
Directors must be elected annually, nominations were declared in
order*
Judge Putnam nominal ted the present Board of Directors for reelection. This motion was unanimously carried. The Secretary was
instructed to cast one vote and so did, thereby re-electing the
Board of Directors as now serving for the ensuing year.
Chairmans

Since our last meeting, the Club has sustained the loss
of one of its most valued members, President Stone of
Lafayette University, who wa3 killed in attempting to
ascent Mt* Eon, a mountain not previously ascended. A
memorial to Dr# Stone has been prepared by Mr. Bent, and
the Club will be glad to entertain the memorial at this
time.

Memorial to Dr. Stone

Mr. A. H. Bent

Dr. Winthrop E. Stone was no ordinary climber and no ordinary
He
was a member of four climbing clubs and greatly beloved in
man.
aU of them*
ltq
Me was born and brought up among the hills of Southern New
waoPSnireV ln Chesterfield* He began climbing late in life and it
to n°^
1906 that he went to the Canadian Rockies* Even then,
{k tonU?e ^s own words, he went "after the manner of an ordinary
Wi
His previous summers had been spent on the Maine Coast
aer° his brother, a Dean in Columbia College, still has a cottage.

"ZuSSSSm___

�m
-2 J--58

In 1911, in his 50th
Canadian Rockies . That swnLr
year, he 'began real nn-? -u*
pyank W. Freeborn of this cS
", through th- infin
1 mbing in the
iU!nCe 0f the lat®
Canada and climbed lit. Lefroy^- Dr. Storn

'

0 joined the Alpine Club of

Since then his summers have been
spent in the mountains of
Northwest.
One summer during the
the
war
Dr. Stone did not go to
tIl0 Northwest. He said he had
some
600
boys
on the college campus
to prevent his getting away.
In other years them
to
the and
mountains.
onceapJ.,,
rr-n+f8*801"8
again
I want to He
feei
to ms uncertf,intieq
sayim,- »f: hiab^UtA his going
little details of the climL^i^9 hardships, the^m™?,18 stirring
shall get to the high plaL ^•Pr°fessi°!1, 1 don^t*^tlons and other
J8ft early and rent out'to the^^LSe?01'" ‘
His experiences oi the previous year had resulted in 5 articles
of great interest. In the Winter of 1915 he gave a lecture before the
Appalachian Mountain Club, illustrating it by photographs which he had
taken. These pictures have taken prizes this last summer. The last
of his articles was printed in the Canadian Alpine Journal about a year
ago* and was entitled “Amateur Climbing” •
I think that few men have been given to feel the battle of the
crags and ice as was Dr. Stone. Bret Hart once wrote: - - - -

\

I believe that everyone who was so fortunate as to have the
friendship of Dr. Stone feels the same way, and we all hope that on
that Far-Off Olympic we shall have the pleasure of meeting and greeting
him again.

It was moved and seconded that this memorial be made the
Memorial of the American Alpine Club to Dr. Stone. This resolution
T/as unanimously adopted by a rising vote.
x.
Chairman:

Of course we all know that at the time Dr. Stone met his
death, his wife was left in a position of great peril on
Mt. Hon, from which sho was rescued after V days by Swiss
guides and others. The rescue was effected after great
peril to the rescue party and after much exposure and
hardship.
The body of Dr. Stone was subsequently recovered by a
party of Swiss guides and others only after the exposure
of the party to great peril. It seems, therefore, approp­
riate that some resolution or minute be adopted recognizing
tlie services of those who participated in the saving of Mrs.
Stone and the recovery of Dr. Stone’s body.

Mr. Palmer, for the Committee on Resolutions, read a resolution
fa °n Rudolph Aemmer. This resolution was unanimously adopted, to be
•&gt; spread on the records and a copy to be sent to Rudolph Aemmer.

‘-‘*y ?■ •
Wls-

mm

bbsp

n ’^'■y V,lv ^V',:* *-.Vr1 ’&gt;*•

■ -

�■%

SSitsSB

Lip • Pa lmer , T ox* t
Committee
appreciation
to
IMward
W' a Tills ?esolu?iSni0nS» reSd S resolutlon
spread
on
the
record^
ofl
was
adopted,
to
copy to be sent to unanimously
Edward Feuz.
Mr* Palmer, for the Committee
on Resolutions, read a resolution
preciation to Conrad Kain.
°f ^spread on the records and a Tnis resolution was unanimously adopted,
to
copy to be sent to Conrad Kain.
lvfI^padjner: The Committee on Resolutions proposes to prepare two
other resolutions, not phrased at this moment, one
commendatory to William Peyto of the first party which
rescued Mrs. Stone, and who suffered the same risks
and worked as hard, as those already commented upon.
These remarks also apply to Charles Edward Pounden of
the Mounted Police, who started with the rescue party
and participated in all the risks and dangers.
It would be impracticable to assess the value of the
work \7hich individuals did, the men in the trail gang,
the packers and the many others; Ts&amp;£°it seems only
right that some general resolution be made to include
these others.
parried*

i

Chairman;

rnot:T.nn tft-d-rup ^ general resolution was unanimously
c^
-, c£xaj?
The exploit of the guides and others was certainly a
very fine one. After Mrs. Stone had been discovered,
in the sense that her whereabouts had been seen, the
party of three reached her, being compelled to go
upon the steep face of Mt• Eon at a very considerable
elevation.
Aemrner carried her upon his back across the steep face
of the mountain, a face swept more or less by falling
stones. lie was assisted by Feuz and Peyto, the latter
not being; used to mountain climbing.

elevation.
At the time of their first bivouac, at a great
They
divested
they met very cold and inclement weather,
in order that Mrs. Stone
themselves of their clothing
During
the
night they suffered great
might be sheltered,
hardship.

fc

The following day they were subjected to the greatest
physical hardship in removing Mrs• Stone to a lower
altitude. All of tills was done without shelter and
almost without food, for they were not supplied with
a sufficient amount of food.
separate resolutions upon
It seems to me there should be
the Club records
stand
it of
to be
the
case
Poundsn to his commanding officers, and to
Peyto himself.

mssm

; -

�wmam

H!ggp5P“”

160

; It

-4 •
Motion was made and
seconded
that
these
was so voted.
resolutions be adopted.

:

profi ~X

arrlve

the scene in time to aS\H*1fCarthy» dla not

Stone, but he did lead the pe?tv iiVhe rsscue of Mrs.
Stone's body. He was ai?o exposedto^
same manner as other members !o??L partyf^ in the
Putnam: It seems to me we should +m,Q
*
judge -------“conduct. Would it Lt S jifnm9 °f
McCarthy's
be instructed to communicate JithhiS® SSesS Sscrstary
appreciation and gratitude of the &amp;
Motion carried unanimously.
Dr# Nichois:

There was another gentleman, Dr. Bell, who was not a
Swiss guide, packer, or member of the Government gang.
He is not a member of our club but is a member of the
Canadian Alpine Club. He is a resident of Winnipeg and
at the time was taking his vacation. He brushed aside
his personal plans and conveniences and gave himself to
rendering such professional assistance as was within his
power. Many feel that Mrs. Stone’s life is due to his
prompt and intelligent services.
I, therefore, move that the Secretary be requested to
write the appreciation of this Club of Dr. Bell’s services
in this emergency and the effective result.

Motion carried.
Mr. Hall:

Mr* Lindsay was also a member of the party. He left the
Alpine Club with Feuz. lie was also in the rescue party.
Mr. Lindsay is a Canadian, lives in Calgary, is a member
of the Canadian Alpine Club.

Prof. Fay;

Mr. Lindsay is a son of Professor Lindsay of Boston Uni­
versity. He was in camp at the time the news came and
immediately went out with the rescue party. It is of
interest to know that Dr. Stone had with him on tiis
occasion a printed report of Mr. Lindsay’s attempt on
occasion a pi i
v
think that in some way

the C^Y^KflnSarS: Lindsaynan,a .1th those

recognized by this meeting.

fi)

Mr. Hall showed the Club a picture taken at the top of Mt.
Eon which showed Mr. Lindsay among the party.
If. Lindsay would be in thecSfnS’o'pno-thy
Nichols
and Dr. Bell, nor being a
^ lhgt ,,r. ilndsaj .as in the
fessional guide, .u ^
T believe the Secretary should
party as has been
Hustler as that to Dr. Bell
be instructed to send a
w&amp;s read by the
senderssolution^to Mr. Lindsay was adopted,

�wmmm

i

l€!
-6.

Secretary read letter from Vice

President Bade'.

BUSINESS:
■

Bent:

X would like oo call attention at tills moment to the fact
this tnxs ^ is very nearly the 400th anniversary of mountain
climbing in America, it was late in the Pall of 1521 that
Cortez landed in Mexico. In that year of the Conquest of
Mexico, Cortez sent a party to the top of Mir. Popocatepetl#
Mountain climbing actually began 400 .years ago last October.
I believe no mention has been made of the adoption of a
badge# It was suggested informally last year but nothing
further was done. X think it might be a good idea if
the Club should adopt a badge similar to that of the
Canadian Club. This helps to m&amp;e the Club better known
and is something for the members to strive to possess.

prof» Fay %

I think this is a very interesting subject and one that
could not be decided in detail at this meeting, The
matter might be referred to a special committee to consider the matter and report at the next meeting, We would
not be following simply the example of the Alpine Club of
Canada for the Mother of all Alpine Clubs has an insignia.
I move that a committee of 3 be appointed by the Chair to
consider the question and report at the next meeting.

f Hr# Nichols: I think it unfortunate to postpone things so long. We
are having at present an influx of young members. Young
members are delighted with badges and before I die I would
like to see the young members of our club ornamented with
badges •
I would like to amend the motion before the Club and say
that this committee prepare a report for the Council
and the Council be given power to act as they think best.
so that it might be done before another year.
Motion:

That such a committee be appointed to report to the Council
and the Council be authorised to take final action upon the
matter and report.
Motion carried.

Committee appointed by Chairman:

b

Dr. Nichols
Mr. Palmer
Mr. Hall
SlSjgfflan: Upon the invitation of the Alpine Club of Canada, certain
members of the American Alpine Club were designated to
represent it at the annual camp of the Canadian Alpine
Club. Among the members who attended, and I think as a
representative of the American Alpine Club,^was Dr. Nichols.
We would be glad to hear from him at this time.

�mama

rV'

Page 5.

^airman:

r

I 62.

- 01- durinp«.

&amp;5U! th0
Dr, Nichols:

nothing S«“°W11CSU0n °f «*• MH-.
membership and to the world afk “ ihe Club to the
alive. When it was oro-noc,^ + lar£e 1:0 show that we are
Guide to the doo^SI
J» R»ll-,«.. "GUmbers
this was an opportunity to &lt;in f ,anada» ' it seemed that
our line and to show the ?0n nPraiSeworthy work alorus
them in mind.
100 0r nore members that we had

LrXuSore thellCSo^nPt1Pre?W84 by Br- ^orington
completed anrt -Lh? Council wnich authorized that it be
compi elect and published. At tire request of the Council
^0int°author Un&lt;NrJalf n by
^Imer who thus acted as
joint author and editor.
I move, on behalf of the Club,, a rising vote of warmest
thanks ana .appreciation to hr. Thorington and Mr. Palmer
for preparing and issuing this climbers guide book. May
I venture to say that, in addition to all the labor they
have put into it from a literary and publishing stand­
point, one at least put his hands into his pocket. I
believe the only way to take his iiands out of his pocket
is for the members of the Cluu to order one or more copies
and give them to their friends as a post-Christmas present.
Money talks.

\
&gt;

Motion unanimously carried.
Mr. Palmer:

It is with great pleasure that I have heard this resolution.
I am particularly pleased that Mr. Nichols has emphasized
1„. Thorington's part so strongly, because the initiative,
Dr.
in the work was Dr. Thorington1 s, and a completed manuscript
was presented to the Club by him as a basis.for action and
it was only the completeness and comprehensiveness of this
original manuscript that influenced us to go ahead.

c^lnSlufoffgrebfdoafofiitoratoe -MchV to do

fedge Putnamr
i

with the mountains of Canada.
.
.
T think the only meeting that I have ever attendThis is, I think, in
J
.
us ?Tr Bryant, former
ed at which we havenot .j/edundgrstand that he is detained
byTprevious engagement in ^Uadelphia

Sd rrjSS £atl8he cannot be with us at
i

this meeting.
Motion carried and Secretary

'

**

"

will send telegram.

�p^_Nicliol£:

Age has its privileges.
grandchildren

-7.

One is tn

-ViXT552&amp;

grandchildren this morning.

ssss/r

bQa a mountain with my

Certainly there could he no preafr nr^-n
a camp when only pioneers are invited
§8 th&amp;n to attend
I went as pioneers to the Alpine
d* Professor Fay and

Club of Canada*

is «ondarfuiyaMP?he°compa^‘5ashaeligSfuin r th8 °amp

s isz:

ift * —

that the food had not h'ak roS b-fo,.»

convoyk^^'ktLvkakacould"dispose of.
cost me anything.

?■

"*•

1°,^ «£»»* •'wSSSJT

And perhaps bl.t'tf’Iai* lt°did“not87
5
~' •ot'

bhile in camp I had the privilege of speaking on two occa­
sions. One was as one of many from America, and I think
the American Alpine Club ought to know that Dr. Gilmour
was the Chairman of that evening's entertainment and the
quantity and quality of the people whom Dr. Gilmour was
able to call to their feet was a very decent proportion
of the whole attendance at the camp.

i

The other time I was the only parson who was familiar with
the prayer book in the camp. The Canadian Alpine Club has
a service on Sundays always. And they attend too. My
good friend, Marcus Morton, Jr. presented to my son the
other day a picture of his dad preaching at that service.
It was a very delightful Sunday morning service. It seemed
to me a most admirable part of the programme of the Alpine
Club of Canada.
I certainly advocate friendliness and affiliation between
different climbing clubs not only in this country but in
0 ther c ountries. X hope all our members will climb every
s ummer. Remember that the legs are the last to give out.
1 trust I shall be climbing at 100 and will be able to be
a pioneer for the AmericanJAlpine Club at any Alpine Club
which invites them.
The meeting adjourned at 4:20 P.M.

After the meeting Mr. Hall presented a
British Military
Of . trip vihich he and Mr. Wrtonmad. to ^
of
Group, south of Banff, last August, r ©suiting m
Mt. French*
!
Mr. Carpe then reported on the ascent °f an unnamedjeak^o
, about 10,000 feet,(using colored aLides) twenty miJ-a
header in the Selkirks.
Mountain Club for the use
A vote of thanks to the Appalachian
! oi their- rooms was passed*

�w*
1&amp;H-

)

Meeting of the Council

October 30th 1922.

1I

.

Ameeting of the Council of* -t-Vio a
the office of President Deiafield in ivtp,10^ flpine Club was held at
The meeting was called to order at ip.o! York on Monday October 30th.

SS2^1SSf^!w*

! ?

fa

raisedhforethetguides1and othS^^Ld^h final distribution of the fund
Stone rescue. At the previous Annua? VetttT notew°^
^ the Dr.
that the Secretary should write letters nf 2 &amp; re?°rYtl0n had been passed
viduals connected with the^^aTo^

ri^ndLy

Sitarf»LeT

McCarthy, Dn.T^Befl a^d

f4:ief^°x\0:Kr;''f?Carthy and hls reply were read to the council! 1
letter from onrad hain one of the Swisss guides was also read and pro­
duced a fine impression from its evident sincerity and general tone.
a suggestion made by letter to Judge Putnam and transmitted to the Secretary that either he or the President of the Club should communicate with
some member of the Alpine Club and send an invitation to such members
of the Mt • Everest Expedition as might be in thsi country at the time
to address our Annual Meeting or Dinner and be our guests at that occas­
ion resulted in the Secretary writing under date of Oct* 12th to Profes­
sor Collie* In this letter expression was given to the general interest
of our Club in the expedition and a desire to have an opportunity of
giving any member who might be in this country a hearty welcome.
A letter from Mr* Bryant to Mr. Deiafield was read in part. The par­
agraphs selected were quoted from a letter from Mr. Montanier indicating
his continued interest in mountain climbing and also suggesting that we
should telegraph the best wishes of the Club to the Alpine Club with
reference to the Mt. Everest Expedition. In connection with this matter
a letter from Mr* Deiafield to Mr. Bryant was read which included a
cable as follows;-” The Alpine Club,London, The American Alpine Club
sends its best wishes and hopes for complete success of your Mt. Everest
Expedition. Deiafield, President.”
A letter from Mr. Deiafield to the Secretary expressed the unusual
importance this year of the election of new Club officers and stated that
he had appointed as a Nominating Committee Judge Putnam and Mr Bryant
Mr. Deiafield reported that he had appointed unaer date of ay 22nd 1922,
the following delegates to the National Conference on State Parks,Judge PutnamSand 4ssrs Seaver, Carpe Ladd and Waterman. Also the fol­
lowing delegates to the Alpine Club of CanadasCamp-Professor Fay,
Dr. Nichols, and Messrs MacCarthy Seaver, Waterman and il ox.
a new club Booklet was discussed and it was
The matter of publishing work should be taken in hand at once and the
d-Qcided that the preliminary
^lub funds were not sufficient to pay
suggestion was made that as the
be called upon to devise some
for this, that the incoming President

ii

�AH
I________

165~

b
means to this end later on.
consisting of Professor Fay, A Committee on Publication
Mr. Bryant and Mr. Wilcox. was appointed
The place and date for the a
up. Philadelphia seemed the obviou^oL?^®1’ and Me0ting was taken
iTstll that it^had^een'many^year's'^since^th^^"^6^^™^^®0^^ *0^r^~

l|
■

held in Philadelphia and that the
Annual Dinner had been
do their best to make the event a m,™ d&lt;3lphia Members were ready to
one of the Mt. Everest Expedition nPmh!SS and that they hoped to secure
on Dinner and Speakers S apprfrted as
a speaker- A Committee
and Messrs Soattergood, Thorington, Vaut, and
Mr. Delafield who had invited all present to luncheon called at­
tention to the lateness of the hour and suggested that other matters
might he discussed at that function. The Secretary announced
ion since the last meeting of the following new members; Mr. the electJohn W.S.
Brady, Professor Arthur B. Lamb. Mr. Arnold Louis Mumm and Miss
mond Niles.
_• Rosa1? ■

Nominations of new candidates were presented as follows; Miss
Helen I.

; &gt;

Buck, proposed by B.S.Comstock and seconded by B.F.Seaver,
and Dean Langmuir, proposed by H.B.de Villiers Schwab and seconded by
Allen Carpe. The meeting adjourned at 3;30 p.m.
Cx
v/./
&lt;

i

i

�i.inutes of Annual
Meeting held at
Philadelphia, Dec. 29th 1922.

urday December 29th 1922 at three n v ir^} Phlladelphia on Satphia Geographical Society, courteous^ SHS r°°“® of the Philadelthe American Alpine Club. There
at the disposition of
ing President Delafield.
nineteen members present includsent tohall1Ember°f,ieS Set'eS
read and accepted.

^Wished *"*
- 1"e “creta1" 2

Report was

The Treasurer's Report showed an available balance of $297.92,
The Report of the Nominating Committee was as follows: for President, Rev. Harry E. Nichols; xor Vice-Presidents, Howard Palmer and
Rodney L C-lisan; for Secretary, .Valter D. 'Vileox; for Treasurer Ben­
jamin F. Seaver. These candidates were elected unanimously. Leroy
Jeffers was reelected unanimously for another term of one year. Hr.
Delafield commented on Mr. Jeffers assiduous efforts for the Club and
thanked him for his excellent work.
f

I

The special Committee on Badges presented a lead impression
of the proposed die which had been do: igned largely by Mr. Palmer.
The die would, cost about twenty-five dollars which was appropriated
for this purpose and striking the badges about $2.5o each. Mr. Hall
moved that the design subi itted b adopted as the Club badge and Mr.
Nichols seconded. Motion carried. Judge Putnan spoke of the advantage
of using bronze rather than silver. Professor Fay referred to the ben­
efits to be derived from having an emblem to be worn in the field.
The President referred to the death oi Lr. T. dewitt Cuyler
and Dr . Greene presented a Memorial which was read and ordered to be
spread on the minutes and a copy sent to his widow.

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The Secretary presented copies of nis letters bo Mr. MacCarthy
and Konrad Kain respecting tbeir efforts in the r scue party organiz­
ed to assist Mrs. Stone and recover Dr. Stones body on the occasion
•of the accident in 1921. Extracts of reviles to these letters were
also read.
Also respecting certain mountain c&lt; &gt;n^, ascenos. Dr. Thorington
presented a letter mom one noy-l
rr.«
t
graphing parts of the
le ala? enlarged on thS iBthe Mt. Brown and Mt.H
fflself being kept in touch with informational
portance ox hr. Pa_n; n •' / ■ n
' a order that the Guide Book may
of asc nts in the Canadian Rookies, in onui
be absolutely accurate and up to u e •

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Mr. Bryant inquired if there
was
sort of work for the ^ elkirks,
^any. prospect of doing the same
Dr,
collected material
on the Selkirks'
rePlied that they had
Range. It is in
be published.
2*^
Hr. Palmer and Dr. Thoringtoif
tne imP°rtance of the work of'

.
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.The Secretary was asked to thank
society for the courteous use of its the .Philadelphia Geographical
rooms. meeting adjourned.

'•-x
-iy'x.

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ANNUAL REPORT OP the secretary.
Dec. 30th 1922.
During the current
increase. Last year our membership
haS made a sliSh,fc
the largest in the history of the dub of
l11 ^ n0W 121 whlch is
Honorary Members and 108 are on the Active nit nu^f)er»are
I

SSTiS^ST^T’ -

-S

«*&gt;SS^^iSSiSiS

the rescue parties in connection with the accident to Dr. and Mrs. Stone
was duly distributed. Neatly typewritten resolutions of appreciation,
bearing the Clubs seal and the signatures of the Committee in charge,
were sent under registered mail to all the chief members of these rescue
parties. Not only the material aid, but the resolutions, were apparent­
ly very well received by the participants and made an excellent impres­
sion. As directed also in the last Annual Meeting, the Secretary wrote
special letters to Dr. Bell, Mr. MacCartliy and Mr. Lindsay, Seme 4&gt;f the
letters received in reply to this correspondence were most interesting
and approc i at 1ve

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A letter from Mr. Kontagnier was received by Mr. Bryant indicating
his continued interest in mountain climbing and his ascent of eighteen
peaks during the last season. In this letter the suggestion was made
that the American Alpine Club should cable its best wishes to the Alpine
Club for the success of the Ft. Everest Expedition. Acting on this Pres­
ident Delafield sent the following cable to the Alpine Club; Trie American
Alpine Club sends its best wishes and hopes for complete success or your
Mt. Everest Expedition.”
A ipHflr. from Mr Delafield to the Secretary expressed the unusual
laporta£oie&amp;£ jJS o?’t£f “Lotion of no,, dub oiTlc^s and■ •t.Mdth.t
he had appointed"as a Nominating committee, juage Putnam and r^ Bryant.
Mr. Delafield reported that he had appointed under date pi hay 22nd the
following doiagates to the ^national Confei-enoo^Stat.^Park.^ Judge ^
Putnam and Messrs Seaver, Larpe, Ladd a*
,
.
delegates to last
vitation from the Alpine Club of Canada the
^nd Messrs Mac
summers1 Camp were appointed: professor
0&gt;
Carthy, Seaver, Waterman and Wilcox.

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�The publication of a new

SS^^SSSS^SffSSSsi

coming President be called upon to
VVas su6Sested that the inA
Committee
on
Publication
was
annn^^“e
me?ns to this end later
on.
Pay, Mr. Bryant and Mr. Wilcox.
aPP°-Lnted consisting of Professor
Secretary made the suggestio^that it^ouf^b™ a?d referred to the
have one of the members of the 5?
“e
to attempt to

Everest Expedition had, of bourse be^SfoSowerii trtS^eenest^A
terest by members_ of the American ^lpine CjUb and it would be a very
1
great honor and likewise a very great pleasure if the Club might have
the opportunity of meeting such members of the Mt. Everest Expedition
as may con«o co this country in order to give them an appropriate
welcome•
** ^
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�ANNUAL REPORT OP THE SECRETARY.
Dec. 30th 1922.

£ Sf a.sll?h‘

the largest in the history of the rinh of 4-v,- Xt M now 121 whlGn 13
Honorary Members and 108 are on'the Active list .^he^lub^af Offered

sttsAsu:

SsfaosLondSU5ii;stamb’ Mr' Dea”

«ssris: r—

Arnold Louis Mu- and

Very scon 9-J-ter tne last Annual Meeting the fund collected by the
Club for t-he beneiiu of the guides and others who were identified with
the rescue parties in connection with the accident to Dr* and Mrs* Stone
was duly distributed. Neatly typewritten resolutions of appreciation,
bearing the Clubs* seal and the signatures of the Committee in charge,
were sent under registered mail to all the chief members of these rescue
parties. Not only the material aid, but the resolutions, were apparent­
ly very well received by the participants and made an excellent impres­
sion. As directed also in the last Annual Meeting, the Secretary wrote
special letters to Dr. Bell, Mr. MacCarthy and Mr. Lindsay. Some of the
letters received in reply to this correspondence were most interesting
and appreciative.

!

A letter from Mr. Montagnier was received by LCr. Bryant indicating
his continued interest in mountain climbing and his ascent of eighteen
peaks during the last season. In this letter the suggestion was made
that the American Alpine Club should cable its best wishes to the Alpine
Club for the success'of the Mt. Everest Expedition. Acting on this^Pres- .
ident Delafield sent the following cable to the Alpine Club; The American
Alpine Club sends its best wishes and hopes for complete success of your
Mt. Everest Expedition.r*
A letter from Mr. Delafield to the Secretary expressed the unusual
importance Sis year of the election of new Club officers and stated that
he had appointed as a Nominating Committee Judge Putnam and •’1 * ^ryan .
Mr. Delafield reported that he had appointed under dare pi ^ ~2na l_e
following delegates to the National Conference on State Parks, Judge
Putnam and Messrs Seaver, Carpe, ^^he^following delegates to last
vitation from the Alpine Club 01
_ . Nichols, and Messrs Macsummers* Camp were appointed: Pro.t.essor Pay,
Carthy, Seaver, Waterman and Wilcox.

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The publication of a new Club Booklet was discussed at a re­
cent meeting of the Council and it was decided that the preliminary
v, ork should be taken in hand at once. As the Clubs * funds are not
ufficisnt to pay for this at the time it was suggested that the inomin*7 President be called upon to devise some means to this end later
°n * A°Committee on Publication was appointed consisting of Professor
, ,
pay/ Mr. Bryant and Mr. Wilcox.
A letter from Mr. Bryant to Judge Putnam and referred to the
Secretary made the suggestion that it would be well to attempt to
have one of the members of the Mt. Everest Expedition address our
Annual .Meeting* .The Secretary wrote Professor Collie under date of
Oct* 12th to this effect and said among other matters that "The Mt.
Everest Expedition had, of course been followed with the keenest in­
terest by members of the American ^lpine Club and it would be a very
great^ honor and likewise a very great pleasure if the Club might have
the opportunity of meeting such members of the Mt. Everest Expedition
as may come to this country in order to give them an appropriate
welcome •

�am
aSSOciated mountaineering clubs

i 72-

north AMERICA

THE BUREAU COMPRISES THE FOLLOWING nor
ACTIVITIES, a COMMON INTEREST in THE CRErT,0NZDE^EL0PMAV,NG

- pRD0DTECT?0N00F UTDO°R
AND

L

* „tne Club.Philadelphia and New York CAsrAm»we v ,■
qv,c Association, Washington
Colorado
jyasI»"8ton
IKebica; Forestry Association, Washington
Co-operative
Cluu&gt; Dc"'cr
^esican FORe protective and Propagation
Seattle CAMPtRS 0F ™e Pac:
Pacific Northwest
^^HnmSseu^m'of Natural History, New York
or
—.*.«n ouciety of America, Decatur, 111.
Field and Forest Club, Boston
. ijiericaN
. AND Historic Preservation
Fresh Air Club, New York
American v
York
Geographic Society 0F
of
SoC,E£’Camp and Trail Club
Chicago
Geograph,
Gref.n Mount

feSSM and lNCW Y°rk

».* v

5=,S™S
v.S,K3"v„,„
cATy0^°~ &lt;*»• Hono!uli

Ksh'columb.a mountaineering Club
Vancomc^Ty op Natural Sciences
S’A^vor Sciences, San Francisco

League or WALKE^New"^ Wa*,n*ton
MSuNTA?NFP°rctancd'
oeVuduTon Societies

G£Eia Alpine Club, San Francisco
^
Krectors Association of America
LA-’U’

National Forestry
New York
Program Committee

C.Jm* N^ional Parks, Dept. Interior. Ottawa

‘^'walhington SeRV,ce»

U. S. Dept. Interior

and r
MOUNTAINEERING
national parks_ AND FORESTS.

National Parks Association, Washington
National Parks Committee, New York
Natural Parks Association, Seattle
New York State College of Forestry
Syracuse, N. Y.
New York Zoological Society, New York
Olympians, Hoquiam, Washington
Palisades Interstate Park Commission New York
Pennsylvania Alpine Club, Altoona, Pa.
Prairie Club, Chicago
Rocky Mountain Climbers Club
Boulder, Colorado
Sagebrush and Pine Club, Yakima, Washington
Save the Redwoods League, Berkeley, California
Sierra Club, San Francisco and Los Angeles
Society for Preservation of Native New England
Plants, Boston.
Trails Club ok Oregon, Portand
Tramp and Trail Club, New York
Travel Club of America, New York
Wild Flower Preservation
Society of America
New York

LE ROY

JEFFERS. Secretary.
65 Central Park West. New York
LIBRARIAN AMERICAN
alpine club.
47G FIFTH AVENUE. NCW YORK

Report of the Librarian American Alpine Club
December 30, 1922
First in importance among the few titles published
on mountaineering during the year
Cel. Reward-Bury* a, Mt. Everest,
Tv.. was
..
published by
. Longmans,
,
L'J-3 ±3 a fascinating record of the first
expedition for the conquest of the world’s highest peak, Dutton
published Sir Francis Young husband, The Heart of nature* w hi c h
contains beautiful descriptions of the Himalayan country and espeel ally of Mt. Kanchenjunga. In Inca land by Hiram Bingham,
published by Houghton, the author describes his first ascent of
Coropuna in Pesu. The Call of tlie Mountains by Le Roy Jeffers,
published by Dodd Mead, covers a wide range cf mountain and canyon
scenery in this country and Canada and is unusually illustrated.
Cur collection of mountain and scenic photographs has been
steadily increased and now numbers 2150 separate pieces, counting
each mount as one, although it may bear two or three views, Arne ng
the particularly interesting additions are several large views
of Mt. Everest and nearby peaks.
Travellers and mountaineers from all parts of the world
have called to see the club books and photographs, and have
universally expressed surprise and pleasure at finding a more
interesting collection than they h?ve seen elsewhere.
The Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North
been a member
America, of which the American Alpine Club has
orp^nizations
in the
since its inception, now numbers
joining during
United States, Canada and. Mexico.
g of Fcrestry, the
the past year are the New -or*
c* ~
California Academy of
Buffalo Society of Natural Sciences the CM
^
Clut
Sciences, The American satui- ■■
mountalna,ring enthusiasts in
of Mexico, which numbers a^out
the City of Mexico.

3

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&amp;

�ssmsmms
/75

r
THOMAS DE WITT GUYLER.

uddsn death of Mr. Cuyler on November second of this year, the American Alpine
\ In tb® . one of its original members.
When the Club was incorporated in 1915,
Club 10wag one of the subscribers with Henry G. Bryant, George Vaux, Jr., J. Henry
Mr.
Cuyler Qod and Dr. J. William White.
Mr. Cuyler was in his 69th year when he died
Scatters^00n born in Philadelphia in 1854), but it was hard to believe it, so full of
(having
kis life and so widely diversified his interests.
In the last year or t
^ctiv1 y ^ waS apparent that he was ageing rather rapidly and his death is attributed
bow0^01"^r£0nds to the hard and continuous work he had done since assuming direction of
by hi 6 , affair8 as Chairman of the Association of Railway Executives.
He was chosen
raitroa j^ff^cult post becuHse of his great power to grasp the meaning of a tangled
f°r tbi
exceptional diplomacy and his extraordinary knowledge of railroad affairs.
situati°n&gt; e akiiity was remarkable.
As a presiding officer he had few equals.
Hi6 0X0fUwith which he directed the deliberations of the trustees of the Second PresbyThe
dispatc
wbere I knew him for many years, was the admiration of the ministers.
t8riaI1 d always to have time for what had to be done but he
tim©6^0^* Cuyler was unsparing of himself.
m-i
,
WaS a master in the use of his

»»v

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acientific farmer, a patron of music and of art' pn' °®*nent banker&gt; a military man, a
affairs, and a director of many railroads and n+w i 1V0 worker in church and Y.M.C.A.
In social
affairs he *as a leader.
Then?*'It tbs'coun, COrPorati°nSdelight to him.
He was a great lover of horses Lrt ap out7°f-door activity 7/as a
Show and of the Pennsylvania Cattle Show Association. ^ preSldent of the D(3Von Horse
„
„ T
3
On his large stock farm at
Paoli were a herd of Jerseys and a flock of foreign and domestic sheep that were noted
priB0-winner8.S# It appears that during his later years Mr. Cuyler could not find time
to indulge his love of mountaineering, an interest that gripped him hard while he was
His sister writes that at the age of fifteen he went abroad with his
still a boy.
father and mother and was allowed to take a guide and make some difficult ascents
As a young man, she says, he went abroad quite often, was fond of
in Switzerland.
These included, among
[ Alpine climbing and made the ascent of many of the mountains,
once
from
the Italian side),
! the high peaks, the Matterhorn (once from the Swiss and
Monte Rosa, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, Piz Bernina, Piz Julier and Finsteraari torn.
Many expeditions were made and many other peaks woreclimbed, but no complete
record is available.
Who can doubt that his happy youthful days "on theheights"
helped to develop that fine physique that carried him so successfully through the
exacting duties of an exceptionally busy life’
Many now are mourning the ending of
a useful life, the passing of a real friend.
"e, his fellow members of this Club,
ever mindful of his love of the open air and of the mountains, join in their sorrow
ebd rejoice in the record of his life’s accomplishment.

!

�AMERICA! ALPIlffi CLUB

THE CLIMBED 'S^SjmE°T01"J2iI’S!«-I.vA?II0H 01'

SE0°®

w-bbSS?'*,®™*
January 1, 1925

i.:

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^rt“riEl“l report
Boar4 °*
fSirt see foJhLtena??.!£.??t0b:! 18th’ lm&gt;
■t 995.75

'
i

postage (mailing copies) Sept.16,1981-Nov. 15 1921 • • •»
Nov. 15,1921-Dec.SO’ 1922 • • • •

17.25
2.00

Total expenses to date

f1015.00
Recapitulation.

Club appropriation for guide book
'

i

Advanced by H. P.
(For publication...
(For preparing maps
(For wrappers............
(For circulars.........
(For miscellaneous,
(for postage 1921,.
(for postage 1922..

1

("550.00
(350.00
15.00
27.50
25.25
28.00
17.25
2.00

465.00
t-1015.00

Total
Sales.
To Deoember 31, 1921
For 1922

51 Copies
38 Copies

§126.80
94.95

Totals

89 Copies

§221.75

§465.00 Minus receipts from sales (§221,75)
&amp;

§243.25 Due

�mm
I7i&gt;
- 2 -

out on memorandum^to^e^lace^on^sale ?J;he books were sen^
club as follows;
1
0X1 SRle Without cost to the
Superintendent of Jasper Park
Club Room of Alpine Club London
Canadian Pacific Office, lew York
Camp of Alpine Club of Canada
Total

Copies

I

6
6

12
IS
57

Of these, only three copies have been sold, namely at the camp
0f the Alpine Club of Canada.
During the year copies were sent without charge as
follows; one review copy, one copy to a club member to replace
one lost in the mail, one copy to general publicity agent of
the C#P*R» at Montreal, and one complimentary copy to the
Topographical Surveys Department at Ottawa.
Of the copies sold, three were charged at a reduced
price to public libraries.
It is planned during the season of 1925 to place a
small supply in the hands of the Swiss guides at the mountain
resorts as it is believed that this is the best way of getting
the book into the tends of the practical mountaineers.

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1922
SY'13S SU1D6S1

^Tim

Services in Dr. Stone’s death.

-sac ;ii?TS*

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jail. 1

"'440.
105

VjB la no o from 1921
Additional contributions

"'545.00

-DISBUK2 SIDETSjet). 1^

155.
105.
105

■Rudolph Unmoor
■’dv’: rd IJouz
Conra d ES in
William T/eyto
\v. Child
Ralph Sink
" Yi. Corrib or t
Jack Curran
. .'oils
jack 'D atteredfo
Rono ..'it ten

50
25
20
20
20
20

10
15
;545.00

K ev; yo rk be c e mb c r 29th, 1922
•;:ubmitted
.-spec tfully
uonj•

2

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K: b.

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THE AMiSRIOAJ

OLUB

Xn account with p,onj .

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1 ~ G 2 IS Ur G X'

gSl'MRAD'j AQQojJI-.IT
R:io;,;iRTB

J.9 22
jan. 1
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By Balanco from 1921
" Annual dTi.cs for 1922 for 750 Members :”;575„
n
TT
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for 1919
1
"
'
5.
for 1920 "
1
5*
for 1921 "
6
30.
" Sales of

Ilpina Americana

iBS-

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Jai. 20
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26

M. 2
2

Hoh 2£
I foh 23

To Secretory f Gtonourrohy and postage
10.50
W.ff. .Roberts bill 12/28/21
Circular
('26.00
Stone Report
26.00
PostolScRCirculors
12.60 64.60
LeRoy Jeffers annual dues Rur. of
15.00
; s soc io t od ; Counts in - or ins C bubs
on
Treasurer,
post- re p2.00 exc
2.60
chock .60
10^ bill lxe els
Treasurer
10.
200 envelopes
Dr. Oilmour Travelling expenses_ to
and from Roston per Resolution
21.77
of Oouncil
Lowry R Co. Renewal fire insurance
premium 1 year 700. Lit. Royal
4.20
&amp; Gilford Aves (Baltimore)
. bill 1/15/22
Williams £ v/illcins no
.75
Storage to 1/15/22
57 1.32
j)0: tr '0 in Alpine . /mericana
Treasurer's a/c printing circular
0

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23

APr. 20
■$*.24

/‘415 o

5.46"

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‘158.19

20.75

and envelopes
Guides' fund ana yos^.c
William S- V/illcins bill npiil -Rtora^e to 4/15/2^

5.00 6.50
.75

f420.45
aB7B,;5r

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(&amp;$

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157*99
8

To Library Bureau

2^ hand
nci cabinet tor photos
IT
21.
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it
11
11
LeRoy Jeffers posts orve on
Williams &amp; Wilkins postage ulletins
on Alpina
Amo ricana
3ec rc t ry1 s exp en so
Roberts Company 2/2/2S 130

IV

18

cireulars
envelopes
addressing
125 circulars
' 'Williams A Wilkins Co.bill 7/l/22
Storage to 7/15/22
Willi®ms : Wilkins Oo. bill 7/81/22
o.yA r/o on Wipin'■
icana
Williams &amp; Wilkins Co. bill lo/ia/22
Storage to 10/15/22

19

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K. 51
.fDoc.

Balance to credit ox General Account

111 1920

Geno ra1 a o c ount
Borrowed wSOO.OOfrom Reserve fund to help
finance Guide Book.
The Club has paid on account of publishing
Hr. Howard 'liner advanced ...........................

■"58.00

I.60
i ii

.46

826.50
8.00

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6.18
20.25

60.93
ii
.75

.24
.75

tlla.at;

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297.92

’’550.
1463.
.

1013

He has ei .acted sales of................
As of -June 17,1922 The Club owes
him...........................................................

4

109.05
273.95
46570?)

iiud

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Apr 20
r Septl9

By hal itoai 1921
17 coupons 5d Liberty Loan
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856.17
14.86
14.89

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Coupon bonds

at co&gt;:• t...................................................... • i?fy‘70&lt;-• 00

In Biclyn Savin-:s Bank

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74.39

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n coupons 3rd lib. Loan
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5.00
5.33

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0304.94
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3d. U.S. liberty loan 4$$ Goujon bond
ac cost..*«.
250.
Xn Brooklyn *'r vin^s Bank.............. .............
8.72
jn wank or 'merics................... 446.22
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December 51st Balance

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2504.94

1IB1URY e JGB-fn ■'UlvD
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1922
1124.19
25.

By bal. no a i :c om 18 21
If Coupon City of Quebec

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25.

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5th payment.
Deco mb er 51st B a 1nc e « • • •
€•

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TI2'4V19“
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City oi Quebec 5‘ Coupon oonci • - oo^.c
In -rookl, n '"ovinf
In Bsnlc of America
Sec. 31

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12' .19
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1124.19

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Balance .. .. • • *

STO.H-.ovRY J22. I' .—--2—
I Sencrsl \ccount
p lescrvc fund
i '5v; xd ■;;hyraper unu
\ bibr; xy iMovniwrit

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Bank of vinerica
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74.59
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111.53
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B 249.44

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ISD

Meeting of the Council held
'
Dec. 29th 1922 at
Philadelphia.

A meeting ox the Council v/10
r\
at Philadelphia in the rooms of the Geo?ranh?9t? *928 at eleven a.m.
phia. President Delafieid,Henry Bryant®T
of Philadel-

“* by invitatlon Judsa p"tn“’ -« t»«i
The minutes of the previous

-k 25

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meeting '//ere read and approved.

—«-

:e articles
which had grown up and crystallized around the old names of various
mountains and other topographic features and which names had teen
changed in recent years often without regard to the wishes and ideas
of mountain climbers. It was the opinion of the Council that so far
as this literature was concerned, these names could not be changed,
but on the other hand it would not be possible nor advisable to°use
the old names when new ones had been approved by the Geographic Board
and incorporated in published maps. The Council decided therefore to
use the new names but at the same time give the old names in brackets
wherever a change had boon made.
The matter of raising funds to pay expenses of publication was
discussed but no definite program was outlined.
As a candidate for membership in the Club the name of Miss Helen
I. Buck proposed by B.S.Comstock and seconded by B.F.Seaver was
brought up. After some discussion it was decided to consider same at
the next, meeting of the Council.

:
!

i

C
i
\

The names, of certain members who had failed to pay dues were
discussed. Among these the
taken up and. their continued membership
referred
to Mr. Palmer with power.
standing of Mr. M.P.Bridgeand was
Allen
Bent
Belmore
It was decided to drop Mr. W.G ^ St eel •/^^l^AitenMe
n r and Mr.order
kf
Browne were to be continued and dues j a - '■'bkkr.rEn'idM'n,-! «
00 Mr. Donald Macmillan this year,
the Council. No bill was to be sent
referred for xinal disposition to
Several other members names were
the Treasurer.
nnb librarian, read a report on the Library
Mr. Jefiers ’ the "lub -Ll ££ at his request the Council appropand collection of photographs of new photographs.
riated $75.00 for the purchase

�/-■K'M.

e nominating Committee consisting of Judge Putnam and Steward
presented the following candidates, all of whom were unanimousted, for councillors for the next term of three years; Dr. Anly e Gilmour , Henry S. Hall Jr., Dr. William S. Ladd, and J. Henry
drew
Sea ttergood.
The program for the Annual Meeting in the afternoon and also for^
Dinner was outlined and the order of speakers and time to be allotthe
each was decided upon. The meeting was adjourned at 11:30 A.M.
ed to

P

:

.

$5

�MEETING OP THE COUNCIL,

March. 31st 1923.

A meeting of the #Council was held March 31st at two p.m.
,.-u@ offi°e °J- .Delafield in New York City. President Nichols at
in the
chair• The following councillors were present;Howard Palmer, B.F.leaver
nr Gil^our,, Dr.'Ladd, Henry S. Hall Jr., Walter Wilcox and by invita­
tion the Club Librarian,hberoy Jeffers.
The minutes of the orevir
report of the Treasurer showed a balancenfoWere read and approved. The
Dr. Nichols
presented
a letter
t i
General account of 4^o
Kiss
Helen Buck
had audited
Se'T?ea Srlra^
^ oo
m good order. A letter was also presented hh ?
and had f°und all
was legatee for some form of ,fft D!£? -ndicatmg that the Club
when questioned could not give a dsfinne1^^-8’ thoush Fir- Jeffers

f*

The Secretary read the names of
as Active Members of the Club qi n-r vr^V6n candidates for admission
judgement of the Council. The’Seere?Lv w«P^e f?uad eliGable in the
names before the membership""of the Club anl
t0 brin£ these
were received during the thrSe iJeks required by
their election without further reference to the Council’
The namesannounc
of
the candidates were as follows
Miss Annette E. Buck, Oliver Eaton Cromwell,Ansel F. Hall, Kenneth
R. McAlpin, Adolph H. Schultz O.M.Smart, and Daniel Underhill.

orary

slsktss
votes of all the directors present, Lr. Scatter oo ,

*•
n
.s
being absent from the country. Dr. Nichols inferred to Mr. Mallory
fine qualities, and broad international vlCv/P

that it might bo well to elect
Dr. Nichols made the suggestion
view of his Alpine achievements and
tas' ?°^e
honorary Membership in

1

Tie Secretary read an ^resting lot cUBba^ '/ules^pSadvocatins the election of an ™J;ne jhS0„ly for M» achievements bat
Gui liar mod to Honor ary#Member ship, °hloh Jas the birthplace oi L'^±ef
also in honor of the little c
ested the name of Genera /
honorary
mountaineering art. He.ad® °edition as worthy of ede^°d for" favorably'
of the 3 922 Mt. Everest ixpeoiBruce were vov-a _ox
Member. Both Dr. Guillarmod am r
this distinction,
by all the Councillors present.
Mr. Hall made a ^P^^Xi .^approved at the Annual Meeting
design which was in general tho desi0

.1

�with certain slight changes
el by Sr. Palmer
iS,*« »y Mr. h£? be rjadj «hort^;
ected to write a letter o/twl1*? the badge .The 2® wisdom displayJ
ance in improving the design
kS to
Jo£ T lJ^etary was diS
° ‘

■* Arms I0^ his assist-

The following members werer.voted to be dropped for
/•!
of dues, E.S.Curtis, Robert L.S.McClure, and II. G. Steel. non’ payment ^,
George H. Barton resigned and resignation was accepted. The Professor
status of
^ p Bridgland, which was referred to
hr.
P
a
line
r
wi
t
h
power at a previous' meeting, was to be continued
on
the
same
basis,
on hr. Palmers1
r&gt;e commendation.
H
Dr. Nichols referred to his appointment of the following delerates to the Third National Conference on State parks, Messres Goddard!
Mallincrodt, Jeffers, Thorington and Chamberlin.
Mention was made by the President that two members of the Club *
had promised to subscribe liberally in case it was decided to acquire
a Club house.
Mr. Jeffers made a report on the books and photographs .and at
his request the treasurer was authorized to pay up to $75.00 for a
new cabinet same to be appropriated from the Reserve Fund. The care
of the photographs was discussed and Mr. Jeffers asked for a letter
to the officials of the J-'ibrary asking that the general public be not
given free access to them on account of carelessness and the result­
ing damage done.
The sub ject of an attack on Mt • Logan was rest taken up. inis
mountain is located in Canada, being the highest in Canada, and the
approach is through the United States. It was though a v s
take no action except with cooperation of the Alpine Club of Canada,
owing to above circumstances. The President was empowered t^^01^
a Committee to take up this matter with tne A P
the meeting was adjourned
The re b e i ng no. further business
at four fifteen p.m.
&gt;t A

'&lt;r&amp;

£

m

�l€H-

DIRECTORS1 MEETING OP NOV.
A meeting of the Board

IOTH 1923

of Directors v/as held on November ICrth

1923 at 2-30 p.m. in the New York Public

Library. There were present the
following;- Rev. Harry p. Nichols, Benjamin p.
Seaver, Howard Palmer,
Dr. Andrew J. Gilmour, Henry s. Hall jr..
Dr. William S. Ladd, J. Henry
Scatter good, Walter D. Wilcox, and
LeRoy Jeffers, this being a complete
number of the Council with the exception of the
western Vice-president,
The Secretary read the minutes of the previous meeting and they
were approved as read. Mr. Jeffers referred to matter of access of the
general public to the photographs with regard to which a letter had been
requested by him at the previous meeting to the officials of the Library.
It was thought by Mr. Jeffers that it would be diplomatic not to do anything about this at the present time.
The treasurer read his report as a matter of interest for the
moment but as this will appear in the proceedings of the Annual Meeting
no details are given at this time.
Nominations of new candidates included five names of which four
were unanimously elected. They were as follows: - Dana B. Durand, proposed
by Rev. Harry P. Nichols, Seconded by Henry S. Hall Jr • &gt; Miss Ruth Langmuir
proposed by Helen I. Buck, seconded by Benjamin P. Seaver, M.Albert Linton
Proposed by j. Henry Scatter good, seconded by Henry G. Bryant and John R.
Vanderlip proposed by Rev. Harry P. Nichols and seconded by Benjamin F.
his list of ascents did
Seaver. The name ofVLlyn K. Ford was tabled as
not aPpear to qualify him for membership With regard to Mr. Durand, com-

Dent was made on the fact that he was the yougest

candidate ever introduced

f°r membership in the Club and also that he hed done a

KftfcVi

great deal of very

�(r\

7

' /

/- // c

rnmmmmmrn
u?s

/

excellent mountaineering work in

Switzerland at the

The Secretary was empowered, to

early age of sixteen

announce the
election of these candidates
without further reference to the Board in
case no adverse votes were recorded within three weeks of their
announcement to the dubs' members.
The matter of time and
place for the Ahnual Meeting was next
taken up and it was voted that the
meeting and dinner should occur on
Saturday Jan 5th 1924 in New York City. The committee
appointed to
make arrangements was as follows, Hon.
J. Harrington Putnam, chairman,
Benjamin F. Seaver, Dr. William S. Ladd,' G. Devilliers-Schwab and Miss
Jobe.
Mr. Palmer for the committee on guide book said that in order
to stimulate sales he had distributed five hundred circulars to librariei
which had resulted in considerable sales. He reported total sales at
146 copies total amount paid in being $359.10.
The committee on life memberships reported a proposed amend­
ment as follows;- "Paragraph No. 9 of the by-laws to be amended as fol­
lows: THE SENTENCE NOW READING: "A life membership may be obtained on
payment of fifty dollars." - That it be amended as follows: A life mem­
bership may be obtained on payment of one hundred dollars.

This was

approved and signed by five members as follows;- Benjamin F. Seaver,
Henry S. Hall Jr. William S. Ladd, Leroy Jeffers, and Rev . Harry P. Nicb
ols.
The Secretary read correspondence between
f

himself and Profes-

and also statec
sor Pay with regard to a proposed expedition to Mt. Logan
of the National
that as result of a conference with representatives
assured that the Society would probably
Geographical Society he had been
that same resulted in some
be willing to finance an expedition provided

ft
\

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l
geographical work of intrinsi

c value

azine.

and also in an article for

the mag-

Mr. Jeffers referred, to
a bequest of
Club by Mr. Gerster of which the

certain books to the
number of volumes
was tv/enty and of

these fifteen were duplicates.

Mr. Palmer reported for
committee

they were looking around for an

appropriate subject which

lar enough to invite ready sales,
thought to be the best subject,

on Alpina Americana that

would be popu­
The volcanic comes of Cascades
v/as

Mr R.W.Toll was

suggested as author for

same. Mr. Mathhes, Mr. Glisan and Mr.
Meany were also mentioned in this
connection. Owing to lack of funds
the committee proposed to get material ready and wait for a more appropriate occasion.
The committee

con-

sists of Professor Fay, Mr. Palmer and Mr.
Jeffers.
Dr. Gilmour referred to having found the name of one of our
/V
A r &lt;
_
members, Mr. Allston Burr registered at an inn in Val ■jSaveureuse
twenty

years ago. There being no further business the meeting was adjourned.

�ssVC/;,

§m

i&amp;7

Meeting of the
Jan. 5th 1924

A meeting of the Board

of Directors was held at the
Public
Library in New York City, jan. 5th 1924 at
eleven A.M. The following
were present:- Rev. Harry p. Nichols,
Howard Palmer, W.D.Wilcox,
B.p.
Seaver, Dr. A.J.Gilmour, Henry s. Hall Jr.v Dp&gt;
W.S.Ladd, and J.H.
Scattergood. This represented the entire
membership of the Board with
the exception of our Western Vice -President, Rodney l. Glisan.
By invitation there were also present, Le Roy Jeffers,

Professor Pay and

Henry G. Bryant.
The Secretary read the Minutes of the previous meeting which
were approved as read.
The following candidates for Active Membership were submitted
by the Secretary and approved by the Board:- Freeman Allen, Anthony
Fiala, Val A.Fynn, Dement U. Harris, Fairman B. Lee, Joseph B. McIntyre,
Paul R. McIntyre, and Victor McQuade.

The Secretary suggest$dnthat

such of these candidates as could be communicated with be invited to
the afternoon meeting and dinner of the same date.

Suggestion approved.

Mr. Palmer made a report on sale of buide Books showing 152
copies sold and a deficit of $125.54 still due him from the Club. It

k

moved and so ordered that this amount be appropriated from the
decided to bring this matHeserve Fund and paid to Mr. Palmer. It was
also made on the
^0r&gt; also before the afternoon meeting. Comment was
in connection
and Mr. Jeffers
palmer
excellent work done by both Mr.
with sales .
The attention of the Board was

called to the

increased sales

�'iT
i

c
of

Alpina Americana during the last

year the same
being four times the
normal- This was attributed to special
nincuiars sent out
advertising
Rocky Mountaing Guide Book,

the

Professor P

said that there were
and that there
were still three
large boxes in his house and asked what disposition should be
made of
same . Freight to Baltimore was probably higher than to
originally 2000 copies of Alplna No.S

pay storage in

Boston#

It was shown that the Clubs'

publishers had two bins in Balti-

more which might be available.
The matter of distribution of guide books to members
was taken
up and it was decided that the original intention was to supply free
copies only to members of the Club at time of issue.
Mr. Palmer said that we have a contract with Appalachia to
publish our notes for $25.00 annually.

Two years ago relations were

gone into by Professor Pay and Dr. Nichols and the annual payment was
reduced from $75.00 to $25.00.

An intermediary was appointed to act.

Mr. Palmer was on the Appalachian M. C. committee but could not attend
meetings and was not notified that there were any meetings. One issue
of the magazine appeared without his having had anything to do with it.
Dr. Nichols said that this was the only place where our Alpine notes
could appear.

Mr. Seaver said that there are thirty-one members of

°ur Club who were also members of the A.M.C.
first time he met Mr. Hazard he found that the
dilatory contributors including himself,

Mr. Hall said that the
magazine was delayed by

professor Fay said he had

old as that,
kscn editor for forty years. Dr. Nichols said he was not as
strained for a long time but
Comment was made that relations had been
off relations. Profthat the present was not the proper moment to break
ess°b Pay said it was no longer a mountaineers

Mr. Jeffers indicated that notes

Club.

might appear in Bulletin of

/

i

�mmmslmll
l5*J

r
Associated Mountain Clubs and ln

rePly to a
Question by

that this organization had a Secretary but

Mr. Scattergood moved that a

committee be

president,with power,to take up the matter.
jetton HO brought before the Board, Dr

no other formal

Ladd said
officers.

appointed by the

Lr. Ladd suggested that

• Nichols said that the Chair

held the motion to be divided. Thereu„„n the first

part of the motion

was approved, namely that committee shoul„ act on relations
with
A M.C. regarding notes in Appalachia for 1924,

with power. It was then

voted that the question of how our notes should

appear for the future,

should be discussed later. (President Nichols subsequently appointed

pr. Ladd, Mr. Hall, and Mr. Palmer as a committee (1) to act with
power regarding publication of notes in Appalachia for 1924, and (2)
to consider and report to the Boardat a later time the whole question
\

of publishing an ^meiican Alpine Club bulletin, that is whether to
continue relations with Appalacahia or to attempt an independent publication by the Club itself or to publish Club notres in the bulletin
of the Associated Mountaineering Clubs.

Mr. Palmer was appointed
Pi

Chairman)

*

The above Minutes as amended were

read and approved by the

Council at their meeting of Mar. 1st 1924.
(Signed, H. Palmer, Sec. Pro Tern.)

�CLUB
feHteg_of Meet!no-

hgld_Januarv 5th,

i; \ i

1924.

held on Saturday "afternoon?8 January

Club Was

Library m New York City,

pP^t;

ing receipts of^BOTflo^rSJindituSs^f^eel0?^6!^ S*°W~
a balance to the General Fund of tiiR o* 01 !?92:16^ leaving
quested a committee tfiudit Ms IcSunt ~ J,"/JHasurer rl
members will be appointed to do the Salary?
°n’ tTO
a
~ w c+Varv°^j l0tters were read, including letter from Miss
a?n?h^»nT^-Se’ fsarding payings of the Alps exMbiSd
at the San Francisco Exposition in 1915.

It was moved and unanimously voted that Paragraph IX
of the By-Laws reading: "A life membership may be obtained under
payment of $50.-” be amended to read: "A life membership may be
obtained under payment of $100.n

&lt;

Mr. Howard Palmer spoke on Prof. E. W. D. Holway
(See typewritten copy) with the result that the following resolu­
tion was unanimously adopted:
WHEREAS The ranks of American mountaineers and those
of the American Alpine Club in particular have
suffered a heavy loss in the death of Edward W. D.
Holway and
WHEREAS Edward W. D. Holway was for many years a loyal
member of the Club and held in high esteem, not
only on account of his remarkable mountaineering
achievements in the Canadian Alps and on account
of his important contributions to botanical science,
but also because in his kindly and energetic person­
ality he exemplified the loftiest qualities of the
true mountaineer, therefore be it
RESOLVED That the American Alpine Club hereby expresses
its profound sorrow and extends its sympathy to the
members of his family in their bereavement} and be
RESOLVED That as a tribute of respect these resolutions
be spread upon the records of the Club and a copy
sent to his family.

- ®S®

'

'

i

�The Minutes of th« i
had already been published. 1&amp;St meeting

were not

r9ad&gt; as they
The Annual Report
loss of one member by death
T/9?d' s»o»i„g
members dropped on account of
non-payment of’duej
°ther
didates have been elected
as
active
members
anffe
rfdevB“
0i“&gt;members.
honorary
Announcement
Booklet as well as announcement of the^nevf ClSb°BaSge *** Club
Letter from Georcrp r
followed by reading „f letfer

j

y

‘^Seoretary,

(see typewritten °£py)!
“rf lfIOy ';erf5ra. was read,
of photographs me„t&amp;Ud S' tSfrepS
tend its thanks to the Officers^of^he Publie^ih th6 Club ex“
regular use of the room for o^r coiwtf?
£U?*ary for the
of the room for the^fuS IfeSu^1 °U°nS &amp;nd th6 Sp6cial use
the asoent“?°^aZogan.bU3ineSS dis0uss9&lt;1' including plans for

)

Capt. McCarthyfs talk on Mt. Logan:
nThere is, I am sorry to say, very little that has so
far been accomplished in connection with the expedition concerned.
As you know, the expedition committee was appointed at the Annual
j Camp last Summer. I did not happen to be there and I knew nothing
j about the former correspondence in connection with the proposed
i expedition to Mt. Logan. I was informed late in the Fall that I
had been appointed a member of the Executive Committee,, and I
heard nothing further in connection with the undertaking until the
night before W9 were to start East for the Winter, when I received
word that they were calling a meeting of the Executive Committee
in Vancouver and. that I was to attend either in the latter part of
November or the early part of December. I wired that I would be
.there the following day. /We had an informal discussion of the
general aspects of such an expedition, and then, after hreshing
the subject over in a general way, the committee was organized n
the Canadian°members of the Executive Committee on their own
initiative and their own action, chose ^ Americanto act as the
leader of the expedition. -'Then again on their own initia' L»
no sucraestion from
me,* (London)
as an American,
they ~o Alpineaub^o
‘
siredlhfSpiL
Club
and ^ ^noa"
participate in the expedition, an 1
other Canadian memChairman of the committee and seconded by the o
shouid both
hers that the American Alpine Club and the Aipin
i
representative
to
join
the
Climbing
Party.
be asked to provide a

�a

l After other business, such as designation
Advisory Committee, thr&lt;^
American Alpine of members for an
Alpine Club members , and three
Club members, three
Canadian
were chosen.
Alpine Club members
The Chairman of the Executive Committee then asked
me, as an American, if there was anything else the Executive
Committee could do to make the American Alpine Club feel that
they were going to be part of this expedition and that it would
not be a Canadian expedition but would be a North American sxnedition.
I said I did not know of anything beyond what was
already suggested.
If th9 Climbing Party remains as instituted for the
; contemplated trip, Canada will be represented by one member,
(England by one, and America will be represented by two; but no
imatter how they may look upon me in Canada, we on this side of
the line know that I am essentially an American, so that when
it is said that the proposed Mt. Logan Expedition is a Canadian
venture, I wonder on what basis the remark is made.
It surely
is not because of the proposed composition of the Climbing Party.

►

The Leader was notified at the meeting, when he in­
quired what his duties would be, that his duties would be leader­
ship in everything before his departure from the States and every­
thing during the period of work in the field, so it looks to me
as if America - the United States - will be pretty well represented,
so far as members are concerned.
1C
It is proposed that the total party shall be limited to
id members, 4 essentially going as members of the Climbing Party,
2 reserve climbers, 1 physician, 1 photographer, who, if possible,
should be able to take moving pictures, 1 cook, 1 geologist, who
comes last because he will probably be picking up the specimens.
The question of the route in to Mt. Logan is rather a
difficult one to decide. There are two apparent feasible routes:
one leading to the south side of Mt. Logan and the other to the
north side of the Mountain. There is a distance of about 100 miles
around the Mountain, so that if one should happen to strike the
w^ong side, it would mean 45/50 miles to get around to the right
S1de, so that the line is a very important matter. All the points
are being weighed for the south as well as the north route and
9ventually a decision will probably be made, and a great deal dePQnds upon the wisdom of that decision, i.e., on it will depend the
success or failure of the expedition.
the
ipriltiith8lmiient1equiSent1L.depwiIions° tad”*
Janata ta ?he ftaid Gntil perhaps the first two weeks of July when
weather conditions in the vicinity of Mt. Logan are not very favor­
able.

�7mm
-Ml

4

m

-

It would cost in +h«
$15,000. Just how this sum ?! J^ghborhood of
known. Certain subscriotionp t’° be raisQd is at n-xi12’000*/
and members of the club?
h
exPected from lDP-&amp;sent un&gt;
geographical Magazine Soildbe^uf?? b°ped that the^u^?8
matter to finance it. They Lfufficiently interested i?S
land much to my surprise, declaSd^h??8'??^ in thiaconn?cJ?!n
Stheir readers would be interested in
doubted whether
tion has been made to them which thL ? h a subjQct. a pronosiand it may be that we will get some « hfv? under consideration
ever, not as much as hoped for ori!i
from them; how-*
tial sum which will be added to whit alre’ribUb PeJhaPs a substanby the Finance Committee and what mav ha
nmS been received

”°„lh "

A P-P-ition

SSpSgT^*

Mountain and its surroundings a^thifTtime^ PT°bb®ms of the
them tonight. I know ve?y fftUe abou5 the SSuJt^11 ^ 0?
will take me only three o'r foir SiStS ^tSi^tSt fVnl
I had better reserve the rest for tonight."
1 kno

abo„t the ssfii5ya«sT&amp;yjf^^ca*t1sgrg a*

selves were:
&gt;

"I was present at the meeting, and I think there are
others at this meeting who were also there, and while everything
was exceedingly pleasant at the meeting, the position that was
taken by the Director was distinctly that it was a Canadian
proposition. While h© did not say, of course, that they would
not accept American financial assistance which was presented, it
was a Canadian Mountain and ought to be attacked distinctly by
Canadians, and the representative of the American organization
acceded heartily to this. Later on, came a statement that the
persons who would be invited from the American Alpine Club and
the Alpine Club to take part would preferably be members of the
Canadian Alpine Club. I am exceedingly pleased to know that
such a change has occurred as would make this a combination aria r.
Everyone in the American Alpine Club knows that I am about 50%
Canadian, and perhaps the percentage is even mor , a
+,
.
lous that the Sost cordial relations shall^xis^bet.ean th^t.,0
sides of the International Boundary
thing I can to further that cordiality."

■

Mr. deVllliors-Schwab made a »ttcmthat
Of three be appointed to solicit f Ader-can Alpine Club, and
ihS it°consist o^Messrs^Seaver, Hall and Thorington.

Letter from Mr. Wheeler.

■is v.

bSotPHIIIi

Pmm

&amp;

SiS

�r
Mr . Bridgeman inquired
„
have been pledged or whether ,u whether the
publication rights
th®y
could
be
uation•
utilized in this sitCapt. McCarthy replied that a proposition has been made
t,0 the National Geographical^Society, offering them the exclusive
news items and also the exclusive rights for articles and pictures
during a period of two months subsequent to the issuance of their
Magazine,
inupon
which
number
would appear.
The and
proposition
is
being acted
by athe
Geographical.
Society,
I would not
ider that we were committed to such a point that we could not,conwith good graces, withdraw the offer in case other lines proved
more fruitful.
Mr. Waterman suggested that Capt. McCarthy be unpointed
a member of the Mt. Logan Fund Committee. This suggestion was
endorsed by the proposer; and being duly seconded, the motion was
then voted upon and passed.
Announcement was made that the American Alpine Club is
incorporated in the State of Pennsylvania. To comply with these
laws, it was moved and unanimously voted that the Secretary be
instructed to cast one ballot for the councilors of the Club for
the ensuing year.
It was suggested that a Radio message be sent to Capt.
McMillan now in the Arctic.
Payment to Mr. Palmer of $125.- in connection with the
Guide Book.
A motion was made and seconded that Mr. Palmer
be reimbursed the balance of the amount which he advanced for two
years on the publication of the Guide Book.
Dr. Thorington spoke on the advantages of the Guide
Book being revised at some future date, and requested that cor­
rections of matter now in the book, together with accounts of
variations and new ascents be sent him for eventual use.

Therefore, it was moved and secona
ouncil. Subsequently
should be 19ft to the f f
shSd uot exceed $500 it was moved and seconded th
^ Some memt)ers might prefer
It was then suggested by
than ta^Q the money from the Club,
to subscribe personally rath
result that the Council
Finally, the motion was amended wit ft

�authorized to appropriate from the funds of the Club such
be
" nev as it thinks best for the Mt. Logan Expedition.
This
®onnded motion was thereupon seconded and carried by vote.
Following adjournment of the Meeting, Dana B. Durand
ke on "A Few Days in the Tonquin Valley in 1923", Walter D.
uttcox on"Bow Pass and Pipestone Valley^ A. J. Gilmour on"Roundv^mit jjt. Blanc” and Allen Carpe on"Mt. Brazeau and the Maligne
Lake District."

�j &lt;=76'

ANNUAL REPORT OP THE SECRETARY.
Jan. 5th 1924.

During the past

year the American Alpine
Club has made notatie progress along many different lines. Our
membership, which last year
totalled 121 is now 730. The Club has suffered
the loss of one member
by death, that of professor W.D.Holway.
Professor George Barton has re­
signed and his resignation has been
accepted. Three other members have
been dropped for non-payment of dues, On the other hand the election
of new members has more than made up for these losses in numbers. Eleven
candidates, whose names have been sent to all the Clubs membership have
been elected as Active

Members. Three have been elected as Honorary

Members, Mr. George Leigh Mallory and General G.C.Bruce, both of the
Mt..Everest Expedition, and Dr. Jacot-Guillarmod, the latter having been
suggested by Mr. Montagnier as an appropriate representative of the
little country of Switzerland, birhhplace of the mountaineering art.
A new Club booklet has been published and distributed to all
members including Honorary Members. The Secretary has to express his sin­
cere thanks to Professor Fay and Mr. Palmer for their efforts to eliminate errors and at the same time offer his apologies to the Club for
certain errors that crept in through his own fault, It is probably difficult to realize the amount of work

that is required to edit such a

in French, German and
book which contains long lists ox foreign name
must be compared and revised.
Italian whose spelling and accentuation
members furnish more or less illegible
T add to these difficulties many
be deciphered and corlists, full of errors in spelling, whidh hav
to follow in future
will make those
^ected. However the present

�years somewhat easier to edit
A Club badge has been

designed

in one of the meetings of the Board of

&amp;nd made ready for distributior

Directors Dr, Nichols
commented
work
done
by
Mr.
Hall
and
the
on th
wisdom displayed by
Mr. Palmer
in connection with the selection of a
suitable badge.

A letter of thanks
was written by the Secretary to Mr . J.T•Ame s, who
although not a member
gave noteworthy assistance in improving the design

of the Club badge,

Dr. Nichols appointed as delegates to
ference on State Parks Messrs Goddard,

the last National Con-

Mallinckrodt, Thorington and

Chamberlin.

Since the last Annual Meeting there have been

three meetings

of your Board of Directors, in which the names of new candidates have
been discussed and approved for election, and other important matters
taken up. At one such meeting, that of Nov. loth last, there was a recon
attendance of Councillors, every member with the exception of the wester:
Vice-President being present.
Only passing reference is made in this place to the proposed
Mt. Logan Expedition as this will be discussed more fulljr by its leader
Mr. MacCarthy, who will give latest details of progress made.
ascents made by members of
The number of expeditions and new
noteworthy. This continued active
the Club during the past season was
booklet, the
interest in mountain climbing, the publication of a new
proposed assistance in th.0 Mt

. Logsin Expedition, the

members and our list of new candi
for election, all give abundant promis
which we are now entering#

accession of new

shortly to come

before the Club

of sucdessyduring the year upon

�TILS

AS^gjWEMiy niui

H AOOOTO TO„ BEW.

sm
THi3ASTJ7.iS.

■£^1?:AX Aoanmm

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1923
J0’1

By balance from 1922
"

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du®B I mem?e^ tor 1920
2 members " 1921
6
" 1922
IT
" 86
" 1925

5.

10.
SO.
45 0.

#475.

"Sale of lipina Americiana

jaB

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Feb. 2

13

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Bureau of Associated
Mountainoorin'* Clubs • # • » » • «
Secretary's account Koborts Co
Bov. 1922
§12.50
Bee. 15/22 Notices
6.25
"
" " Mail &amp; 1. Post S.52 22.27
Williams &amp; Wilkins Co.
Oct.5l/22 Mail Al. ino
Dec. 3o/22 "
Jan 15/83 Storage from
lo/l5/28 to 1/15/23

.24
.07

.75

Tree surer’s account
■p ost
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Exchange out of
town checks

1.06

3.

.60

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iiolty ITgr. printing
250 reQuest envelopes
bill 1/23/23
Secretary’s account
for postage

3.60

4.
4.

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BROUGHT FORWARD
1923

H?*

pah • 13
J|o** 7

jfsr. 20

Treasurer's accountNolty Mgr. bill l/gu
125 bill heads
/S5/2S
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Roberts Oo.
hill 3/l/gs
1500 note heads
C;23.5o
parcel post
.46
postage &amp;pjaiiinp
3.3
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150 circulars
24.00
J. S, Lowry no.
Renewal of insurance
Mr. Royal and

§

5.50

51.30

Guilford Aves,Baltimore

27

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July 11

|700* 1 year.......................
Refund to Henry H.Goddard
overpayment dues 1923
Treasurer's account,
postage stamps • • »
3.75
Exchange on checks.........
.90
Treasurer's' aoot.
IJolty Mgr. bill5/3/23
150 Rer.'u: st envelopes
Williams &amp; Wilkins Go.Bill
Apr. 30 Expresso&lt;?e
Secretary's account
Roberts Co. bill 5/l/23
150 notices
10.25
1000 envelopes
12.25
post &amp; mailing
3.44
notices
3 sets of en­
velopes addressed 4.50
Williams &amp; V ilkins Co
bill of May 31,1923
mailin'- Alpina
Americiana
LeRoy Jeffers Secy Bureau
of Mount&amp;fmeBring Cluh
120 copies of Bulletin
and posta -e
Roberts 00. hill June 30
345.
250 year bpoles
80.50
Alterations
• o

250 envelopes for above
mailin-': &amp; addressing
parcel post on letter
heads to Hew York
10
10

1500 Letter heads
Williams &amp; Wilkins Oo.
bill June 30 moiling
Alnina Americiana
W. G. Wood &amp; Sons bill
July 10 1 die for club
pin

4.20
5.
4.65

3.05
.29

30.44

.60

3.40
425.50
7.

8.56
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23.50
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�BROUGHT FORWARD
(&gt;&gt;#1/-. i/g
AUg . I?
sejot .5
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Sept.5
Q(31

pee.19

Williams &amp; Wilkins Go. "bill
Jan. 31 mailing alpina Americana
Howard Palmer disbursement
print
ing 500 circulars send 15482
libraries
in re Alpina Americana
Williams &amp; Wilkins Co. bill
Ausr . 31 mailing Alpine
Americans
Williams &amp; Wilkins Co. bill
:cr&gt;t. EC mail ins: A1 Amer Storage
1/15/23 to 10Aa/83
WilliarrS&amp;V.ilkins Co. bill Oct.31
mailing Al Amer to
McClure
• • .11
Jacobs •. • .06
Mass. I Toch
.ii
.28
1:1 ill Ilov. 50 mailing Al Amer to
Mallory
.15
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• 15
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W. P. Roberts Co. Inc.
bill I!ov. 1-item Oct.So
250 inserts.....................
10.50
bill Dec. 1-item Mov. 14
IE5 notices.......................... ■14.
Bill Doc. 1-itom i’ov. 16
Postage &amp; Mailing notices 5.50 17.58

27.88

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0 692.16
t

Sour. 7

Balance to credit General Fund.

In 1920 General Acct. borrowed
from Resorve Fund to assist in
financing Guido Book
Phe club has paid on account
of publishing . • • • « * •
*.
Mr. Howard Palmer advanced

A

115.24

$550.
465.
$1013.

■

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By Balance f rom 19£;" Life ••Q^ership :•*. ;
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of photographs
75.
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In Brooklyn ;.;avln;»s
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too*

268.94:
54 .14
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coupon City of ueboc
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AX.PIHK CLUB

THE CLIMBER’S12GUIDE°I[ ,rHE

To TO'PSEASI0H OP

THIRD ANNUAL simeieot' • BY

„ OS' CANADA
committee

January if 19 24

ltd expenses as per Second Annual Report

01015.00

senses for 1922:
postage on books mailed
1.74
printing 500 circulars.!, 0 • o4 17.40
printing 500 envelopes...
5.50
postage on 550 circulars*
5.50
List of Public Libraries
4.00
o o o

0*0©

• o • ©

To tal

54.14

(No charge for addressing or mailing
the 500 circulars)
fatal expenses to date

01049.14

Recapitulation.
0 550.00

Club appropriation for guide book
Advanced by H. P.
(For publication...
(For preparing maps
(For wrappers.....
(For circulars....

0360.00

&gt; *• • •
(For miscellaneous
(For postage 1921.
(For postage 1922.
(For expenses enumerated
»

•

O

above...........................
Total advances by H.P. to
Jan. 1, 1924 .........

15.00
27.50
25.25
28.00
17.25
2.00
54.14
(; 499.14

rfotal cost of publishing Guide Book, advertising , and mailing
same ............ *............... ...............
Sales
31, 1921
&gt;utfer
Por 1923

51 Copies

Iotal8

152

A

e

38

63

4' 126.80
94.95
152.55
0 374.10

Q

ii

01049.14

�mmmm
in. reporting the sales

r the year, 63
copies, the C omrnittee
i?ould state that only by etrenuous
efforts was this total
attained,
f;ariy in 1925 the sales had
off materially,
and it was determined
that only by a campaign of advertisi
could they he increased.
Accordiagiy a ^at, two-page circular• was
prepared and

sent to a selected

list Of names in the Alpine Club of Canada,
about 100 in number.
public librai ies of the country had puro based

The

scarcely any copies, and
lt was felt that many of them would want the book if
properly brought
to their attention. Accordingly, through the kindness
of Mr. Jeffers,
a complete list of about 6000 libraries was secured, and a circular
mailed to the largest of them.

Altogether 550 circulars were sent out

at the end of May.
Responses began to be received shortly afterwards, and upon the
writer's leaving for the West, the office of Hr. Jeffers very kindly
undertook to handle the distribution during the writer’s absence,

In

all, 15 copies were bandied efficiently through his office, and it is
a pleasure to acknowledge the obligation of the Club to him for this
assistance.

It should bo stated that about two-thirds of the orders

did not include a remittance, so that bilis had to be sent.
exception of these 15 copies, everyone of the 152 copies sold

With the
has been

wrapped, mailed and billed from New London.
The responses from Canada have been disappointing, only about a
, and only four at the last
score of books being sold there altogether
have nine copies on
two camps of the Alpine Club of Canada, v.no no\.
tend for sale .
&gt;TK

As a result of the circular

to libraries
24 copies were sold
”
” members
6
tf
11
"
through dealers
17
"
otherwise
16

�mmmm
jjo copies have yet been sold

in Europe,
although in the
November
of
British Alpine J0Urml
Ue
the hook in
favorably noted. Six
are
on
hand
at
the
Alpine
[op h3 5
Club in London to fill
any orders,
Paring the past year f0Ur COpieg
vierc sold through the kindness
Superintendent of Jasper Park/
In rory few instances copies have been sold at

a slightly reduced

'jrioe .tore it seemed for the boot interest of the Club to make the
[j0noession, but the average price received for
all copies sold has been
£2,46 each ($&gt;574.10 r 152} .
The prospects for additional sales appear small.

Only by the

efforts of individual members of the Club can we Look forward to any
substantial oo ntinued demand.

The book h s been uniformly well received

and the reviews printed have expressed approval in the warmest terms.
I7e think that the money spent by the Club in this department has been
well spent, and that the interests of mountaineering have been advanced
by It.

xbcspectfully submitted for the Committee

It should be stated that Mr. Jeffers allowed his name and address as
librarian to be used in this printed circular, so that a very large proportioa of the orders for the book came to him and were forwarded to New London
for billing and mailing. Thus was a very valuable service rendered to the
Club - for there was no other alternative had he not found it practicable
other agencies which we conbook
trade
and
r us in this way# The
services as agents.
! 8aUod all expected a substantia
,
commission for any

�president

p. NICHOLS

„£v.
I

Presidents

1915

^ r3

Councilors
DR. ANDREW J. GILMOUR

VICE'

HENRY S. HALL, JR.

h°WA£/D lPAglisan
RODNEY

ALPINE club

incorporated

DR. WILLIAM S. LADD

L.

J.

secretary

HENRY

SCATTERGOOD

WILCOX
HAMPSHIRE AVE.
’^WASHINGTON. D. C.

Librarian
LEROY JEFFERS

Treasurer
0

enjamin

476 Fifth

F. SEAVER

ave.

New York City

,4 WALL ST.

NEW YORK CITY

WBPORT

v,\

r

.0JF_THj! AMERICAN Ah PI HR CI.UE TOR THE TRAP 1923

The combined collect j.c n of rncuntai nseri ng ho oks of the
American Alpine Club and the New York Public Library now nurrfoer3
1090 volumes. The 3&lt;s&gt;llection of photographs numbers 2440 separate
pieces • In addition to mountaineers and outdoor people v/ho con suit our collection, it has become quite the thing for authors who
are writing on mountaineering for books, magazines, or newspapers
to visit the Library for information on the subject.
The most prominent mountaineer j ng books published during
the year were
Co G. Bruce, The Assault on Mount Everest, Longmans.
D, W, Ereshfield, Belov/ the snow line. Button
James Outram, In the heart of the Canadian Rockies, Macmillan (new ed.)
A. A. Ratti, Clibbs on Alpine peaks. Houghton.
e. 7. Saunders, Southern Sierras of Cailifornia, Houghton.
R. H. Torrey aM others, Hew York Walk Took, Amer. Gecg. Soc.

if
,

�W*Z',0 7
AMERICAN AEPIUE

CLUB

Minutes of Counci] u00f
At the office of Mr. Ie£f DeUfS? Ist&gt; 1924
Place, iew York city
’ 20 Exctlange

$

The meeting was called to order at 2; 15 p yL
in the chair. There were present: Messrs.
(jilmour of the Council.

The President

PRESIDENT NICHOLS
Ladd, Palmer, and
regret from

Messrs. Wilcox, Hall, Scatter good, and Glisan.

He had personally
invited Messrs. Jeffers, McCarthy, and Delafield to attend the
me e t ing. of these, Mr. MacCarthy had been unable to accept.
At the request of the President, MR. PALMER was appointed

Secretary pro tem.
The minutes of the last Counoil meeting, held January 5, 1924,
were read and approved with amendments.
t *

A letter from Professor Chamberlin objecting to the qualifications
of Mr. Anthony Fiala for membership in the Club was read by PR. NICHOLS.
The Council authorized the Secretary to announce Mr. Fiala’s election,
and directed the Secretary to send a letter to Professor Chamberlin
stating that Mr. Fiala was not nominated on mountaineering qualifica­
tions, but for his Arctic work, under the second heading of paragraph 6
of the By-Laws which Professor Chamberlin had apparently overlooked.
balance on hand of
The Treasurer’s report was read, and showed a
Seventy-three members had paid their dues
•‘466.95 in the General Fund,
carried without dues, for special reasons
for 1924. Six members were
The Treasurer asked instructions
aPproved by the Council in the past.
this category. The Council
about including Mrs. Robert E. Peary in
the President to the
advice given oy
the
personal
voted to approve
include Mrs. Peary without
Treasurer in this connection, which was
rendering bills for dues.

mmm

nil

im

�mmmsm

F"

2 08
The President asked for a

rsport from the

Committee appointed
at the last Council meeting in reference to
Pahlicati ons ly the Club .
LAPP
read
a
letter
outlining
DR.
the main Points of the
situation,
These were considered numerically,
It was decided
that the Treasurer
should pay the . 2^.00 instalment
to the Appalachia
n Mountain club
Tor the 1922 issue of Appalachia without
waiting for a bill.
The President said that the
inain question was about the policy
aS to the ultimate publication of
mountaineering notes by the Club.
There is general feeling that we should change the

present method

so that the Club should exercise more control over them.

He asked

MR. PALMER to give the results of the Committee s consideration of
this question.
In response, ,.iR. PALMER suggested for consideration
the advisability of issuing a small bulletin each year after the manner
of the Explorer Ts Club Journal, or of the Gazette of the Canadian
Alpine Club.

Copies of these publications were shown to those present.

He stated that he thought that a pamphlet of this character, contain­
ing personal, informal notes about the activities of members during
the past season, would be welcome,

Information could be requested

from the members In the shape of letters about their work, the idea
being that members would respond readily if they did not have to p
Pare formal literary compositions.

$

The thing to emphasize was that

LTo great feats
"the bulletin would contain chatty, informal item*.
simple statement of where
were necessary to have been performed, but a
they liked it, were the
they had been, what they had done, and how
in February or March, of each
leaflet
would
appear
lata desired. This
s usual printed annual report,
year, and would include the secretary
of the Club.
interest to members
together with all other items of
received by the meeting.
favorably
This suggestion was

�’•jpp"'

^•

PRESIDENT NICHOLS asked

ItIr- Jeffer s to

suPPly facts to the
meetenlarging his
annual bulleti n to
page of mountain notes by members
Include
of the American
Alpine Club.
MB* JEFFERS spoke in great detail on this topic.
The annual dues of
the member clubs are $15.00 a year.
Thirty-eight
duos have paid
this. in 1S25 he received dues
amounting to $882.50.
This included
soine deferred payments from the
previous year.
Payments by fifty
clubs would yield $750.00.
He estimated expenses for 1924
as follows;
Current miscellaneous expenses, .'275. 00;
stenography, $150.00; cost of
distribution, $55.00; printing 5000 44
-page pamphlets, 0510.50; making
total of $770.50.
about the possibility 0f

MR. JEFFERS said that he could give the American Alpine Club
one page of 500 words, but in justice to the other clubs he would have
to allot the important ones one-half a page, and the smallest clubs
100 words.

This would take twelve extra pages and the book would be
t
the annual expense to
fifty-six pages, increasing/$824.55. To carry this amount, there would
have to be fifty-seven clubs paying dues.

Should the American Alpine

Club desire to print full notes, the space involved would cost the
Club $75.75 .
DR. NICHOLS stated that it would destroy the value and purpose
°f the Bureau's bulletin if the American Alpine Club inserted eight
Pages of notes, and that it would raise complications with the other

*

°lubs.

There was a strong tendency on the part of each club to issue

its

bulletin, and Mr. Jeffers favored

the.American Alpine Club

Wishing its own bulletin.
NICHOLS said it seemed clear in the

light of the facts brought

our notes into the
that we should give up the idea of putting
^Uetin
of the Bureau.

�I'
4.

ji{R. JEFFERS stated that
of

American Alpine Club

his w°rk in the

Bur eau and

Was all linked

as Librarian

UP to get he r with his
The work °f the Bureau
gives
ya luable publicity to the New York Public
library through
books and
artic^eS an^- pictures, and through the
character Of the Visitors
who
call to consult the collections.
He has not in
recent years given
American
Alpine
Club
book
the
service, so he has figured his
personal
service to members and to the picture
collection to be value rendered
to the American Alpine Club in lieu of books.
wort; in the New York Public Library #

PR. LADD moved that it was the unanimous

sense of the meeting

that we do in the near future undertake a small publication of
our
own, describing the activities oi the season by members of the Club
the form and details to be considered later; that the Committee be
continued to elaborate and perfect later a plan of publication as
outlined by Mr. Palmer, and that a report along these lines be preThi s was seconded by Dr.

sented to the Council later in the year.
Gilmour and Mr. Palmer.

PRESIDENT NICHOLS referred to the Lit. Logan expedition, amounciftg that it had been postponed until 1925.

He said the points for us

consider were whether the Committee to raise funds, consisti g
°f Messrs. Ladd, Seaver

Thorington, and Hall, should continue to

should be given to
s°licit funds, and whether further co nsideration
American Alpine Club.
^es of persons who might go representing the
A full discussion took place, UR
(a

He stated that the project had
Club instead of a
the Canadian A'lV^xie

outlining the whole situation,
^oveloped into an expedition by

«5°int expedition by the two clubs.
I

DELAEIELD speaking at length

He thought this would have an

'^Portant effect on contributions from Americans.

He thought that

•llliiilll

�change in character was something of

tius

"the American A lp ine

and desire to
maintain amicable relaand it would be gracious for us as
tior3S
a Club to
mak:e a substantial
,
say
$1000.00.
o0nWil3ution
He hoped that the
C ommittee would go ahead
d raise this sum and send it now.
After this w e s hou Id v/a sh
an
our hands
0f it, because we would be responsible
if they failed. V/e do not want
rep resentative from the Club on
expedition.

? oit*.

j

a slight to

still we admire the cause

The President stated that owing to the
..
Postponement, no formal actioi
wthe meeting was necessary, but that the Committee sheula go ahead
and secure the funds up to $1000.00.
|
I

and agreed to underwrite this amount.

The Canadian Alpine Club is undertalcing the expedition on its own account, and has selected the
persons

to go.

Some are from our own Club.

|l5 until next Autumn.
I

The Committee had had a meet ing

Definite action can be postponed

This is the view of the Council.

Regarding the Club booklet, it was decided not to send out copies
generally, but to leave the matter to the discretion of the Secretary,
having due regard to the note in the preface of the booklet, which should

j

not be construed too loosely.
MR. JEFFERS reported in detail his attending hearings in Washington
on the Barbour bill, H.R.4095

in favor of preserving a park in the

sierra Nevada against inroads of in-igation interests.
In response to a question, he

stated that the relations between

tlle ^srioan Alpine Club and the New York Public Library were

on a so 1 id

as^s as set forth in the existing contract between the two.

#

of the accounts of
DR. NICHOLS suggested the matter of an audit
It
the Bureau of Mountain. Clubs, ai_ n -fnis was agreed to by Mr. Jeffers.
the condition
Was decided that the American AlVlW Club should report on
to the clubs comprising the Bureau.
and work of the Bureau in a letter

�J6 *ere
jitd vi0

led

respollsibIe f°r itS oreation and
ia have a favorable effect.

Thi s was

out sometime in the Fall of this

rjlie meeting

a deport

and. audit

a greed to an&lt;t will be

year.

adjourned at 4;S0.

Secretary Pro tem.

�2-13

MINUTES.

t

Meeting of the Council, Oct. 17th 1924,
A meeting of the Council was held Oct. 17th 1924 at
one-thirtyp,m* in the Public Library, New York City. There were present the follow-

mg, president Nichols in the Chair, B.F.Seaver, Dr. Gilmour, Henry S.
Hall Jr. Dr., Ladd, J.H.Scattergood, W.D.Wilcox, and Leroy Jeffers.

Mr palmer was detailed by illness.
Mm-

The minutes of previous meeting were read by the Secretary and

in discussion of same the Chair drew attention to our obligation to Mr.
palmer. Secretary pro tem in preparing them. Attention was also called to
and
the fact that in some cases remarks, not votes were given, that Dr. Ladd
was not on the committee to raise funds. The minutes as so amended were
approved.
The Treasurer read a report which was for information only and
is not herewith included except to say that $945.00 had been received
on account of the Mt. Logan fund and floo.OO more pledged. The question
connection v/ith this fund should be
arose as to whether the expenses in
fund itself and it was voted
deducted from the Clubs account or from this
to deduct from the latter.
invitation to him as president, from the
the Alpine Club, to a
Presidents of the Royal Geographical
hear the account
joint meeting of the Society and Club on
and others. The Secretary
of the Mt. Everest Expedition from Gen. Bruce
of this invitation.
was directed to make proper a c know 1 e dg ©men t
a memorial on
Putnam to prepare
It was voted to ask Ju^e
ccurred Sept . 24th 1924.
Herbert L. Bridgman whose death o
attend the Mt. Robson Camp. Six
Invitations had been received to
of our Club and three
entatives
as repres
^©mbers were to be considered
Dr. Nichols read an

!■

UMl

(•

�z/v-

including Dr. Nichols were asked as guests of the
Alpine club of

Canada.
m the former class those who attended the Camp were Dr.
Thorington
amd Messrs Kali and Schwab. Other members who
were present were.Messrs
Seaver and Waterman, Professor pay s.nd Dr Gilmour.
Dr. Nichols then brought up the question

of the Annual Meeting,

He said that there were two alternate suggestions in this connection.
First that the Annual Meeting always be held in New York. The advantages
would be that it is a central point between Boston and Philadelphia. The
disadvantages are the labor and expense incurred by the local committee.
The other alternate suggestion was that the Meeting should be held every
other year in New York and on the other years in either Boston or

’

¥e*4c. In case of acceptance by these cities, appropriations would be
voted from the general fund to pay expense of printing, use of lantern,
etc.

Mr. Hall said that one point in favor of Boston this year was the

possibility of six or even nine Harvard students attending the Dinner
some of whom had done fine work in the Canadian Rockies the past summer.
Scatter good moved that the Meeting be held in Boston and it was so
voted, the date being Jan. 10th 1925. Mr. Hall was askeld to take the

*

matter in hand on behalf of the Boston members.
Expedition. Attention was
The next question was the Mt. Logan
Club had assumed no other obligacalled to the fact that up to date the
This amount had been raised.
tion than to raise a fund of :;!)1000•
a
bv the president or Secretary to
No formal invitation had been received j
same. However a cordial and enSQnd a member of our Club to represent
. Hickson, the wording of which was
^husiastic letter was read from Dr
Mr. Hall explained at some
such as to be construed as an invitation,
friction and misunderstand-tQngth what he thought had been the casue of

(.

�2/6
Z15

ing between the two Clubs # The general conclusion
was that there had
teen a modification of the feelings of the club with

nespect to

thls enterprise and that a more friendly
place, even to the extent of sending a

sentiment had grown up in its

(■

representative. Mr. Hall made the

motion that the A.A.C. accepts the invitation

of the Alpine Club of

Canada to name a representative and will take formal, action to give
moral support and cooperation to the Mt. Logan Expedition.

Dr. Nichols

suggested that part of the motion should be to appoint a committee
with power. The motion was carried. After some discussion the following
committee was appointed.. Lewis Delafield, Chairman, Howard Palmer and

i

Dr. Ladd with Albert. MacCarthy as associate committeeman. It was point­
ed out that haste was necessary and that a wire should be sent MacCarthy
Mr. Seaver asked what he should do with Mt. Logan fund. It
was voted that he should notify the leader and send balance of fund to
person authorized to receive it.
Among new candidates the following were approved for election
by the Club,- Thomas D. Cabot, (Hall, Schwab) Frederick V. Field,
(Hall, Schwab), William 0. Field, (Hall, Schwab) and Alfred J. Ostheimer
(Thorington, Seaver, Gilmour) in case his record extended over two
seasons, otherwise the latter to be tabled, ihe name of Anscl'-K. Ford
previously tabled was to appear on

the list of new candidates. In the

sugested that in the future, lists
discussion of these names, Mr. Hall
ascents be accompanied by dates.
I

I

A letter of resignation

;

was
was read from Dean Langmuir. It

, it

expression of the hope by the

.

ftover! to accent the resignation with the

Se=n.ttoy that h0 mlght find it possible to join the ciub again some ^
request from the
time in the future. It was voted to lay on the table a
of the interiorandhTrectc^
geological Society to write the_Secretar

�p

of the National Park Service with

regard to making a National Monu-

&gt;nent of the region around Glacier
quested to make further investigation
At this point the Secretary had

in Alaska. Dr. Ladd was reof this matter.
to leave the meeting and the

farther proceedings were noted by Dr Gilmour,

Secretary pro tern.

Due to the absence of Mr. Palmer, owing to illness,
no report
was offered by the Committee on Publications. Mr. Hall said that he
would like suggestions on the following topics;- 1 Cost, 2, Suitable
editorial Board, 3, As to whether the publication of a journal would encroach on the ground occupied by Appalachia, or the Alpine Club Jour­
nal. It was asked if a small journal like that of the Explorers

Club

or the Gazette of the Alpine Club of Canada be suitable? Dr. Nichols
Suggested a small journal to tell of the activities of the Club. It
wqs decided to ask Mr. Palmer to arrange a committee meeting to talk
over the Mt. Logan Expedition,

Mr. Jeffers was authorized to buy goo

cardboard mounts of a better quality than that furnisher: by the library for our photographs. There being no further business the meeting
was adjourned at four p.m«
L

h

(

�w

2/7

)

meeting of the board of directors
Jan 10 th 1925 *

(.

A meeting of the Board of Directors was held in Boston at the
Appalachian -_t. Cluo on Jan* 10th 1925 at eleven o!clock

There were

present, Rev. Harry P. Nichols in the Chair, Howard Palmer, J. Henry
Scatter good, Dr. Ladd, Henry S. Hall Jr., './alter Ti’ilcox, and by invita­
tion LeRoy Jeffers the Club Librarian.
{MtL-kovj

The minutes of the previousAwere read by the Secretary and with
one or two amendments were approved.

Owing to uncertainty ’ nth regard to various Club properties
it was suggested and approved that a record should be made as to the
location and guardianship of all of
The Secretary informed the Board that there were no copies of
Alpina Americana No. 2, in the p

ossession of Williams and Wilkins at

Hr. Palmer suggest
Bal t imore , the s aine b e i ng stored with Professor Fay.
they have a large
ed that they should be sent to our distribut ors as
moderate rate. He called
amount of space for rent to Clubs ao - v /J •

the balance of the Guide Books should soon
be written to find
He moved thrt a 1e11 er of inquiry
This motion was approved with

attention to the fact that

be sent there.

out the cost of transfer and storage

should be secured and the Treasurer t
for
storage
amendment that quarters
volunteered to arrange ’ vith profHr.
Hall
authorized to pay for same.
ghe suggestion was made that
essor Pay for shipment of the volumes

A
i

Bouise in case some r.emBanff
and
take
a few copies be put on s a 1 e a t
the matter.

oe,.- finds it convenient to aw-On .

�Z- / &lt;5*

The report of the Pub 1 i c a t :i on s G ommi 1; t

gr, palmer said that this matter had

Re was called for and

been under

consideration for a
year or two and that the sentiment v/as in favor of
publishing a bulletin.
However the ways and means uere somewhat difficult.

especially in secur- ^

ing an editor, as all the available

members of the Club vvere already

sufficiently occupied with their special duties.
a bulletin might appear at the same time
of the Secretary.

The idea was that such

ith the Annual Circualr Report

Dr. Nichols calle-1 attention to the much fuller and

more satisfactory notices in the last number of Appalachia.

He said

that the policy of the editor of same was now such as to encourage
contributions contributions by members of our Club and even photographs for
reproduction .

He said that the attitude of Appalachia was much more

friendly and that the reports prepared by messrs Morton and Hall were
extremely satisfactory.

He said, it was better to remain as v/e are than

to undertake an uncertain venture.

Then eupon i r. PaIme r made a motion

that the Publications Committee be continued one year and no change be
made in our policy.

This was approved. In the discussion of same Dr.

Ladd said that Appalachia did not intend to become a mere travellers
Magazine but rather to keep its interest in ice and snow work.

%

In the report of the V.t. Logan Committee Hr. Palmer said that
Hr. Delafield had resigned as Chairman in favor of himself. He exhibited
evidence of the
voluminous correspondence and a number of telegrams as
the Committee was appointed
work done by thi s c ommittee. Ten days after
a Meeting was lie Id, candidates were discussed and several telegrams
Carpe was the best ..
sent out. At the second meeting it appeared that nr.
eceived from the Alpine
all a r ound candidate. 0 rigina1 outline of plan r
final choice of
club °f Canada contemplated the collection of funds and
Pensone1 by November*

In spite however of the

need of haste there was

�delay all around of one month. The Corrmiitte

e thought that the first

thin;
was to get ou^ a oulletin of informati on and such
'"-as mailed to members
riving the eventual program. Mr.
Carpe authorized them to
announce that
he would go. hr. HacCarthy wanted to v&gt;
cave a definite appointee and a
list of possible candidates, xle personally desired
some one from the
western States in order to make the
party widely repreenbative. Dr.
tad-1 said that the Committee did not ask
certain persons who for instance said at once that they could not S°&gt; though later on some of
these seemed to feel hurt that they had not received definite invitation:
After some discussion of details. Dr. Nichols said that the
Chair held for action of the Directors that the Committee had nominated
Mr* Carpe and that he had accepted.

Nr. Palmer asked that the Committee

be continued so as to help in any '■■•ay possible. This was approved.
Dr. Nichols then expressed his appreciation of the work done by the
Committee and of their loyalty to tho Club.
The motion was made and carried that the lit. Logan Committee
present at the dinner that night a five minute discussion of the plans
and organization of the Expedition so far as perfected.
Name s

of new c andidates for membership were presented by the

Secretary as follows;- John D. Baldwin (Lenient Harris, '7m. 0. field),
Davis,

Thomas P.D.Haines, (Anne Strawbridge, Henry G. Bryant), ^lec.nor
T]

7»T

( LeRoy Jeffers, E.'.V. Karnden) E.R.Hllingwood, (Lenov Je_j.ers,
Harnden), John L.J.Hart, ( Lelioy Jeffers,
son, (Henry S. Hall Jr., H.B.de VilliersCuntz, Belmore Browne).
%

All of these

E. .7 • Hamden), Joseph E. JohnSchwab) and Perl La Voy (John
candidates were unanimously

approved by the Board with the exception of

r.

it was decided to postpone action in order that
si°nalism on his part might be inquired into.

La Voy, in whose case
the question of proiesAfter a brief discussion

adjourned at 12
i no’ the meeting v/as
the program for the Annual Hoof
Meeting,
^
,
A. /•
/Pi,
&gt;'yS /~'-5
P»m,
W"

�m

2-ZO

y-

AA. ,

The Annual Meeting of

ID;

I

------ Q
■ j

' \

une American Alpine

in the clubhouse of the Appalachian

Club was neld

Mountain Club, No. 5 Joy

Street, Boston, Massachusetts, on
Saturday, January 10, 1925 at 3. 3 (
The President, Rev, Dr. Harry p. Nichols,
presided, and

the Secretary, Mr. Walter D. Wilcox, kept the records.
There were about thirty members and guests present.

President NICHOLS.

I will entertain a motion that the

report of the last annual meeting be omitted because it has
been sent abroad.
Upon motion, duly made and seconded, it was unanimously
voted to omit reading report of the last annual meeting.
The PRESIDENT then called for the reading of the Secretary* s
report, which was read by Mr. Wilcox.
President NICHOLS.

The Chair holds that there is no need

for acting upon the Secretary* s report but that it will be
duly accepted and duly filed,- unless any member desires
additional features to be put upon it.

If not, it is accepted

and duly filed.
We have the report of the Treasurer.

In the absence of

Mr. Seaver, who will be at the evening banquet, I will ask
a summary of
the Secretary to read the Treasurer's report,detailed report of the half dozen
the general fund and a
special funds that we have.
The Secretary reads the
President NICHOLS.

Treasurer*s report.

There is a very interesting

1.1;:

�,..... *2

'Z.Z I
2

analysis of those
Secretary to read.

descriptions, which i win
ask the

The analysis is read by the
President NICHOLS.

Secretary.

You hear the report of the Treasurer,

It seems to me that any treasurer
s report should be formally
acted upon.
What is your mind?

s

Upon motion of Mr. BRYANT, duly seconded, it was
unanimously voted that the report of the Treasurer be
accepted and filed.
President NICHOLS.

We will listen to the Librarian's

report, from Mr. Jeffers.

Please give this report,

particularly bhose who are not familiar with our work, some
attention, for we are very proud of the fact that we have
one of the librarians of the New York Public Library as a
member of our Club and our Librarian, and we are very
proud of the quarters which we have secured for our books
and photographs, and of the books and photographs which we

have in those quarters,

Mr. Jeffers will give a more

detailed report.
REPORT OF LIBRARIAN LEROY JEFFERS.
Club
Yr. JEFFERS.

:ix. President and members, the ^Collection

of books and photographs is kept with those of the New York

'

Public Library in a special room at 47S Fifth avenue, where
I might put in,
they are frequently consulted.
parenthetically, for the record, that the room has no

regular attendant.

It is Room 120, and application at the

&lt;T

Technology and Science headquarters gets permission for the
use of the books there, and anyone wishing to see the
photograph collections had probably better apply to me

�f'

7

as I have the key to it.
It has been found that

the la-rge views, whi ch
are quite
bulky, mounted on cardboard, get torn

)

on the edges where the

people handle them, even though they try
gnd so it is thought better to have

to be careful,

more supervision than in

the ca.se of collections which are thrown

open to the public

generally.
\

The books number 1,170.

And, in regard to them, I might

point out that the policy of the Club was not to duplicate,
either by the Library or by the Club, books of the same
imprint, that is, where the publisher and the dates are the
same.
And we do not keep in that special room magazines, which
are classified elsewhere, and other books which simply have
allusions to mountaineering.

Yany of those books are found

in mountain club libraries, and therefore go to swell the
total.

This is more exclusively a collection of books

on climbing and mountaineering as such.
I think that they represent, pretty thoroughly, the outpuc
of English and American books,
in foreign languages as well, but

’.Ye have a good many books
are rather conservative

in the purchase of those books at present.
There are now about 3,000 views,

We mount most of the

%

views on grey cardboard and caption them with the name and
For safethe name of‘the photographer on the back,
arranged in eight cabinets,
keeping the photographs are
Three are
five of which are the property of the Club.

ft

sizes of 8 by 10 and
vertical files that hold views of the
horizontal files, on which we mount cards
7 by 11; others are
views of kodak size; and then the
holding three or four

p.u;

ZZ-Z

3

�4 2 Z3

remaining one , belonging to

the club, is a large file,
that wide 3nd about that tall,
holding large views suuh
oas Seller's enlargementsof the
Himalayas, Caucasus
and Ruwenzori (?).
Re have had a number of notable

and interesting additions

to the photographic collection last
year, such as those from

Seller in Italy.

1 got small prints from some of his
finest negatives, which do not all
appear in his hook on
the subject, and from those I am
having enlargements made
which will be mounted for this collection.
It is surprising how long it takes to enthuse a photo­
grapher, or a club even, in having a region represented.
Take the instance of the dunes along the shore of Lake
Michigan.

ThePrairieClub is doing all it can to preserve

them, and because Chicago is large enough to sort of overlook

New York, sometimes — I trust these remarks are not for
publication, as they are extemporaneous remarks (laughter) —
at any rate, I had a number of friends in the Prairie
Club, and they worked hard to get adequate enlargements
of those wonderful dunes

with remarkable bird and animal

life and natural beauty, and there were no results,

The

net result was an admission that there did not seem to be

v

enough interest to cover the financial expense, until the
Chairman of the Conservation Committee came along, and she
has produced results, and we have .just received a group of
very interesting dune pictures.

Similar work has been done in different sections of the
country — with the Colorado fountain Club, the Sierra
Club, and among mountaineers — to gather in the finest
So that I think it is
examples of our mountain scenery.

mMBMR

""1

�ZZH
5
being recognized that the Club now
owns Probably the finest
,scehicpollection, not
merely of mountains, but of
mountain
trees and flowers, lakes, and
everything else, that one may
find anywhere in this country.
The most notable books of the year

t

are Professor W. F.

Ba.de1 s — a fellow member of the club
— excellent Life and
Letters of oOhn uir, published by Houghton Mifflin, which
is the result of painstaking, sympathetic work.
T have several times been over in his house, in the
upper story of which he has cabinets devoted to the sorting
out of material, employing a secretary in the work of
gathering the information, which doubtless many of you have
already read, and he has much material which has not yet been
published but which certainly ought to be issued.
Secondly, Oeorge I. Finch’s The taking of a Mountaineer,
published by Arrowsmith, at SO shillings, which gives a
very fascinating account of the author’s difficult climbs
in the Alps and Himalayas.
Our fellow member, Mr. H. F. ' ontaigniep,of Champery,
Switzerland, recently viewed the collection, to which he
He assured us of his
has presented many valuable books,
keen interest in the welfare of the club and in the growth
of its collections, promising to send further donations
as advised of our needs.
Possibly I might mention the
in the President's Conference on

%

cooperation of the Club
outdoor recreation, which
representative

I attended last spring in Washington as
of the Associated American Clubs, and attending, again,
the Advisory Committee meeting recently held in Washington,

HO

'ic

�when there was a. call fior a
)

I

representative from the American
Alpine Club, and in the absence of
anyone else I answered
to that. 7e were addressed by
several notable people,
among them being Secretary Hoover
anQ Theodore Roosevelt,
and much was done towards
coordinating the efforts and
running it through working committees, in practical 1
nes
which I think before long will have their effect on Congress
in the saving of our finest scenery and bird and animal
life as well.
President NICHOLS.

Will You say a word about how much

the library and photographs are consulted?

How much use

are they?
Hr. JEFFERS.

I find

in going over to the room as I do

quite frequently, one or two students, writers, newspaper
r

men looking at material for editorials, and people writing
books, and then the college students from City College,
Columbia, or elsewhere, looking up some fact or place,

There

has been quite a lot of work in college theses where they
had to write up various subjects, or people making bibliogra
phies write in for information.

There is, too, the general

public interested in climbing events, as they read in the
newspaper of I •t. Everest and other expeditions, and want to
L

look them up; and, beyond that, the traveler, ..ho ,-a.it..
go to western regions, or other regions, and wants to see
learn something about the way
something of that scenery and
the best of the
in which he can within a given time view
mountain scenery.

We always try to give them all that

practical information.
President NICHOLS.

Will you say a word more to the

�Z2C
Club in regard to one or two notable

s

this year?
Yr. JEFFERS.

I had not thought

7
visitors you have had

of it in terms of visitors.

There stand out in my mind, first,
'Ur. Montai-gtier s recent
visit, and a visit of Douglas
Freshfield, former president
of the Royal Geographical Society,
who assured us that
there was nothing like it in England; and the Swiss
Minister

Peter

ca.me with great interest and, seeing

that our views on Switzerland were rather few, sent abroad
and had enlargements made which we have mounted — a valuable
addition to the collection.

There are, first and last,

a good many people of prominence who have come there.

I per­

haps should keep a list of those who come in.

President NICHOLS.
h
i

I am sure we are very glad to hear

this report of the Librarian and are proud to have these
collections.

I wish the members of the Club to see to it

that they are utilized to the full extent of their value,
both by members and by any visitors that they may have.
The report of the Librarian will be received and filed.
Vice President PALTER.

Mr. President, may I ask a

question?
President NICHOLS.

Certainly.

Vice President PALMER,

Was that book by Finch on

mountaineering prepared in the librai}?
It was written at his own home, but he
I turned him loose in the collection, and the
from his own research among those

Mr. JEFFERS.
made notes.

remarks in his book came
books.
President NICHOLS.

Is there anything further that you

�22 7
would like to out to the Librarian?
the report on the Guide Book.

8
If not

we will hear

$

The report on the Guide Book

was read by Vice President
Palmer, who interrupted himself during the reading to make
the following statement:
Vice President PAL:'SR.

That was due to the circular

which was issued last spring,

This year thirty copies

were sold, making a total of 132 sold copies, from which the
receipts were !*449.20.
The balance due the Chairman now
is, therefore, only $29.94.
President NICHOLS.

On this matter of the Guide Book,

it ought to be said that nobody that goes to ithe Canadian
Rockies can ret along without the guide book we have
published, as it is one of the most ambitious works of the

n

American Alpine Club, admirably carried out by Vr. Palmer
yjhuru/** /feu.—
Of course each year, particularly
and-j^r. 4^s-a^i%gx-en.
with such a gathering as this, it gets rather antiquated
(laughter), and I do not know just what the Guide Book
If we swamp the club with new
Committee proposes to do.
rSL
climbers, I suppose you will have to issue the publication.
Vice President PALLER.
President NICHOLS.

Each one is a customer. (Laughter.)

Oh, yes.

I want to express the

gratitude of the club to Hr . Palmer for this, as for a
great many other voluntary and devoted activities which he
I would like before my presidency closes
been paid up only the -49 that
for him to say that he has
present took a book
is due him now, and if everybody i-ere
The trouble is that they
we would have no difficulty,
were given to all the membership.
Guide Book will be
The report of the Committee on

has carried on.

k

'"s

�#■

zzf
9
received and put on file and,

not having received any motion
to do anything about the $300 due to the
treasury from
the guide book, i am not
entertaining such a motion.
Professor FAY. -• r • President,
I would like to ask the
size of the edition.
Vice President PALMER.

I think it was 500 copies,

Mr. JEFFERS.

Mr. President, may I be permitted to say
a word of interest which did not occur to me? Mr. Mallory
visited the collection and looked it over with great interest,
suggesting

those views of the fount Everest expedition

with which he was personally familiar as the best examples,
and we sent over and got them,

There were two lots alto-

gether, but he had that personal touch and interest in the
collection which I was sure you would be glad to hear of.
President NICHOLS.

'Ye will go through the formality of

election of officers, and

!
'

for the benefit of new members,

I will ask Mr. Bryant, whose home is in Philadelphia
which is the legal status of the club, to state why we have
to have this election each year.

gill you just inform

the new members about this election, wr. Bryant?
Mr. BRYANT.

I think the law of Pennsylvania requires

the formality of an election although our custom has been
is it not?
a triennial election of officers
President NICHOLS.

Yes.

So it is simply a matter of formality to
law in regard to corporations
comply with the Pennsylvania
think that the reading off
not organized for profit, und 1
and the authorization
of the candidates by a member or officer
Mr. BRYANT.

i

the election of the
to the Secretary to cast a ballot for
fulfill all the obligacandidates for the coming ycc,i will
i

■
ns

sglt

a-

b

�2Z&lt;?
10
tions of the law.
President NICHOLS,

"iU the Secretary please read

the list of candidates?
The Secretary read the following list:
President,

Rev. Harry P. Nichols

Vice Presidents,

Howard Palmer,

Rodney L. Glisan

Secretary, Walter B. Wilcox
J

Treasurer, Benjamin F. Seaver,
Councilors, Dr. Andrew J. Gilmour, Henry S. Hall, Jr.,
Dr, William S. Ladd, J. Henry Scattergood.
Librarian, Leroy Jeffers.
On motion of Hr. Bryant, duly seconded, it was unanimously
voted to instruct the Secretary to cast one ballot for the
election of the above officers.

President NICHOLS.

The Secretary announces that he

has so cast the ballot and those persons are elected for

the entire year.
Are there other committees or boards to report to the
annual rne e t i ng ?

I would state tc the members of the club

here present that the Beard of Directors met this morning
and received r eports of their own committees, which will be
before the assembly
duly brought, so far as is necessary
, so far as we know, there are no other
this evening; and
whole to report, We
committees or boards of the club as a

through the Board of

carry on our business generally
Directors who have just been elected.

�£*?&lt;?
11
,rSi!OP.IALS OF DECEASED MEMBERS.
The next matter that would

naturally come before us is

that of memorials of deceased members.
I would like, in this presence, at this annual meeting
of the club to call—-. , if I may use the adjective —
affectionate attention to OeorgeLelglkallory, honorary
member of this club and a very good, and I may say, dear
friend of many of us, whose passing in the highest chivalry
of mountaineering appeals to our hearts at this annual
meeting.

It does not seem to me fitting that there should

be any minute adopted here at this meeting, unless it seems
best to the membership.

'That I proposed and hoped having

your approval is, this evening, to ask all the members and
friends of mountaineering that are present, to rise
A

auietly for s moment in remembrance of hr. hallory.
Unless there is something further to be said at this
time, I will pass to the two active members whose loss has
occurred during the past year, one of them a very prominent
The Council authorized
charter member of this board.
Judge Putnam to prepare a memorial of hr. Bridgman , and I
will ask the Secretary to read it.
the death of hr.
The Secretary reads the memorial on
Bridgman .
President NICHOLS.

I do not want to question the
Judge Putnam, but I am

ii

theology of so notable a member as
Bridgman does not
sure that in the heavenly places hr.
in favor of this
All
those
who
are
find it purely level,
(All present

rise.
as a minute of thes club will please
• rise. )

{

V"1

£

It will be so entered.

WBFZ isi

■

■

�fa^
12

Only this week, Kr.

been
Alden Sampson
who had,for a long time
a. member of this club but
comparatively little known, passed
away. I am going; to
suggest, speaking for
our information,
that the Secretary read a brief
paragraph that appeared in
the Few York Times, and that then
we trust to him and to
r. Scattergood, possibly,' the
preparation of a fuller
minute, with authority to have it embodied in
our records.
Will.the Secretary please read that item?
*r

/

(The Secretary reads the item

which appeared in the New

York Times.)
President NIOHOLS.

If there be no objection, I will

have this minute committed to the Secretary and to Yr.
Scattergood, to prepare a little fuller record for entrance
on our own records, and they will be authorized so to do.
Is there further formal business to come before the
club?
Professor FAY.

Yr. President, there exists on this

continent an organization that is, in a way, a child —
I ought rather say a sister — of this club, the Alpine
Club of Canada.

'.Then this club was organized in 1902 and103,

a provision was made for a Canadian section.

By a stroke

of happy fortune that organization never came into being,
but in its place there came one of the most active Alpine
clubs of the world.

I know whereof I speak, for I saw

its representation at the Congress at Yonaeo

&amp;

23)

and the

Alpine Club of Canada held first place in the important
During the last season at
display made of its work.
all delight
, Ittta member of the club whom we
the(?) Camp
/i

to honor was made the president

of the Alpine Club of

Canada, and I think that we all, in

extending our personal

�w
greeting
to Professor Hickson, might consider
O
the same time extending to him our

0f the Alpine Club of Canada.
President NICHOLS.

13
that we are at

greeting as to the president

(Applause.)

^e are very fortunate,

in having the golden-tongued Professor

gentlemen,
Fay in our membership.

He always knows the right thing to

say and says it happily.
I have but to wink or nod at Professor Fay
and he gets up and
says something charming.

(Laughter.)

You remember v/e had

/

' a very full program in New York, ana after the dinner was
over I first askea, "'kho is the most distinguished member
of the club here present?1’

every man
Then I said

There were 110 present, ana

woman and child cried out, MProfessor Fay.,u

11 We have a very full program this evening, and

will Professor Fay extend us his greetings, as the most
rt

popular man, in three words,n and he stood up and said,
11 Happy New Year!I il

(Laughter.)

He was not allowed to

stop there.
Professor Hickson, we are very proud to have you, sir,
on our membership as well as president of the Alpine Club
of Canada.

I hope that you will feel that the latter is

quite a secondary position, though honorable in itself.
(Laughte r.)

Won 11 you at least allow the membership to

look you over, sir?

Professor HICKSON.

Hr. president

as I know the

extended, I shall
program today also is very full and very
admirable example set by
content myself with following the

h

Professor Fay last year

in New York, and simply thank him

for the very gracious speech aoout

2 ?7

, which is all too

in which you have
complimentary, and the very fine way
highly my membership
I always regarded very
supported him.

�14 Z33
in the American Alpine Club, and I am
extremely happy to
be present here today. (Applause.)
President NICHOLS,

May I say, Frofesso r Hickson
one of the many charms of GeorgeLeigh Mallory

that

was his accent,

and if my eyes had been closed I should have thought that
he was talking this afternoon.
*

It is inimitable

isn't it?

I try to imitate it, but I can’t possibly do it.
Now I have a request from :/r. Hall — this is a nasty

notice, but I will read it — “7/ill you announce some time
before ^ne end o± ohe meeting that I shall be glad to have
all members pay for their dinners this afternoon if possible?"
(Laughter.)

That is not as nasty as it sounds.

It seems

that, this evening, Pr. Hall will be in. full dress and he
can’t have his pockets soiled with filthy lucre.
*

So we will do all we can to aid Yr. Hall.

(Laughter.)

And may I give

t

a notice in connection therewith, and that is that we

have an admirable program this evening, as well as this
afternoon.

One reason we are trying to get through is

that we are going to hear from some climbers this afternoon,
and we have a very full program this evening. That program
will be from 3 to 2^ hours long. I am exceedingly desirous
to get at that program at a reasonably early time without
unduly hastening the social life of the table; so, just as
shall ask that we go to
near seven o’clock as possible, I

to know that there
You may be pleased
have signified their intention
are 88 or 83 persons who
had but 41 three
this
evening,
when
we
°f being present
healthy growth of interest in
years ago, which shows the
to be present at
could
take
pains
If you
our life.
shaken hands all round and be
and
so
have
Quarter of seven
the dining room,

b

�tdH15

ready to move into the dining room not later than quarter
03.su seven, I thinh wc cc.n conclude the menu within an hour
and get at the presentation of climbs, and so forth, by
quarter past eight.
■yith those notices, the formal business of the club
closes, unless some member has something to say before it
that needs action.

I hear nothing.

It is now half past

three, and you will please understand that we will give
an hour and a half now for such climbs as ”r. Hall, as
chairman of the committee

is ready to have presented to us

this afternoon, which will leave you an hour or an hour and
a half before you have to be ready for dinner; and, with
your permission, I will turn the rest of the afternoon
over to the running committee, and will you kindly take your
places so as not to interfere with the lantern?

The

meeting is adjourned.

-b

Ml'
OJ

h

_
_ _

warn

�Z3S

annual report
( &amp;CL.

OF THE SECRETARY.

/O'0L

i

The Club has made notable

ms:

progress during the past year both

in Increase of membership and in the large amount
plished. Our total membership 3s

of field work accom­

now one hundred and thirty- six, the

largest in the history of the club

a Sain of eight since last year.

V/e have lost be death one of our recently elected Honorary Members,
•jj'

Hr.

George Leigh 'Callory. in the tragedy on I't.
Everest and two members of
the Active list. Hr. Herbert L. Bridgman who died at sea Sept. 24th last.
and Mr. Alden Sampson, whose death occurred Jan. 6 th.

One member has

resigned and twelve candidates have been elected during the year.
There have been three meetings of your board of bisectors, on
which occasions the names of candidates have been considered and various
'1

matters of importance have been under discussion.
On account of our relations vith Appalachia the suggestion
has been made that v/e publish a bulletin of our own. The idea as expres­
sed was that this should cont in personal and informal notes about acti­
vities of our members during each se son

:

1 t it would appear in

February or March along with the Secretary 3 Annual Report. Dr. Nichols
appointed a committee with power, Mr. Palmer chairman Dr. Ladd and Mr.
TT
ail,
consider the ,-hole question of eo*tl**W our relations with

Appalachia or of publishing a

;

of our own.

An invitation to send a member 01 the Club to take part in the
Alpine Club of Canada and
Mt. Logan Expedition was received * 1 o.
suitable canA committee was appointed to select
ho.s been accepted.
o „ n ,• +tie diffi°ulty in view of the condididate, which was a matt01* ox ^

:

�is(&gt;

tions to be fulfilled in the way of climbing

well as having the necessary time

ability and endurance, as

at his disposal. Mr

selected and has accepted the responsibility of

. Allen Carpe was

representing us and in

Club is much to be congratulated,
tin s the
^
In this connection mention
must be made of the fact that a Proposal to raise
a sum of one thousand
dollars by voluntary contributions
among our membership in aid of the
lit. rogan expedition has be-n generously met,

the total now being con-

siderably more than that amount.

The last figures as received from the

Treasurer show #1367*19 in hand.
Our President received an invitation from the ^residents of
the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society to attend a /joint
meeting of those organizations and hear the account of the Mt. Everest
Expedition from Gen. Bruce and others,

The Secretary was directed to

make proper acknowledgement of the courtesy exp ruled to our Club.
Invitations were received from the Alpine Club of Canada to send
representatives to the ft. Robson Camp, some as guests, others as dele-

dates •

Seven members of our Club were present in one or the other of

these capapities .
In a discussion of the choice of place for the Annual Meetings
two alternative suggestions were made by Dr. Nichols, one that these
should always be held in Hew &gt;'ork
in Rev/ York on the alternate years.

the other that they should be held
Gil l b the others should be iidided

between Bos ton and Philade1phia.
Attention should be called to the many

FA

(

expeditions into new

the large number of first ascents
„
world,
as
and
to
erritory in the Canadian no

and three in the
the Canadian Rockies
. interesting expedition of our
United States. Nor should we ovei ■look the

wade, of which there

/are

oq t n

�Z.?7

active explorer of northern lands, hr. Donald Machillan, who has
sted the world during the past year with Ms radio communications
are the
the realm of
has done

first of their kind as applied to Polar Exploration.

In t

art, in relation to mount'in scenery, hr. Belmore Browne

much hard and conscientious work and is rapidly taking a place

amongst our

foremost landscape painters. with these activities and others

has been one of gratifying
similar nature in view the past year
of ^
the American Mpine Club*
progress and achievement by

L
A-Dla.

�........ ..........

..... ..

Z,?&lt;?

THE
president

AMERICAN

NICHOLS

* «*RRY p-

aepine club
^°

incorporated

iii mi

1915

^.Presidents

Councilors
DR. ANDREW J. GILMOUR

palmer
glisan

henry

s. HALL, Jr.

DR. WILLIAM
J.

secretary

WILCOX
WALTER D*
J NEW HAMPSHIRE AVE.
•
' WASHINGTON. D. C.

HENRY

s.

LADD

SCATTERGOOD

Librarian
LEROY JEFFERS

TREASURER

476 Fifth Ave.

BENJAMIN F. SEAVER

New York City

14 WALL ST.
NEW YORK CITY

/

Report of the librarian of the American Alpine Club for 1924.
The Clubs collection of boobs anH
those of the New York Public Library in?a
are kept 7711:11
where they are frequently consumed"' tvi*. P-cial room at 476-5th Ave 9 %
and there are non about 3oS ne™ ' FoTsa?fL^b^V01™68'
^arranged ineylttcabinets, fire of which are the fropert?o?SSfS

w

The most notable books of the year are Prof. V7. F. Bade’s
excellent Life and Letters of -John Ifoir, Houghton Mifflin 2 vcls.,
which is the result of years of painstaking, sympathetic work;
and George I. Finch, The leaking of a Hbuntaineer, Arrowsrrdth
30 shillings, which gives a very facinating account of the author’s
difficult cljmbs in the Alps and Himalayas.

,oeX SiiS

,£5®^

send further donations as advised of our nee

am

l
!
‘

�Z.??

t

(W.
SAMPSONf ALDEN, A.B • • A«M. (Harvard A.B • 9 1376; A.M • 9 1877)

Entered 1869

I

lfov\fU-v\) C&amp;Uxoa*
i
&gt;

Loganian Orator, Freshman year: Pre^iOont « + ».
prize for Lest essay in The Collep-ian (t n* " Yenaenin*
Senior year; prize for best essay in the GeWAthY1**7 ’
Society), Senior vear- one of the fotmders of(the
Grasshopper (i«73), and one of the editors of Ho Tettix
(1874), the first undergraduate napers published at
Haverford; Member, Plr? Beta Kappa. Studentnarvkrd
University. 1*74-77; Ilarva^ri r,3.w School, 1878-80- Alumni
0^or? ”a7erf0^:d, 1®8Q»* Vice-President, Alumni Association,
1888; Author. Game Preserve Expert, United States Biological
Survey, 1907; Lecturer on Literature, Art and Archaeology, etcauthor of Milton’s Sonnets, a Bear Hunt in the Sierras, The
’
Establishment of Game Refuges, Assays on the wild Life, Studies
in Milton ana an nssay on Poetry (the last re-published in
England by Jolin Murray). Member, American Institute of Archae­
ology; American Geographical Society; National Geographical
Society: American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia;
American Society for the Advancement of Science. Member of
Century, University, Harvard Clubs; Artist Member of
Salmagundi Club, New'York City; Member of the Boone and Crockett
Club of New York; Member of the Cosmos, Metropolitan, Chevy
Chase, Harvard Clubs, and of the Biological Society,
Washington, D. 0.; Member of the Alpine Club of the United
States* Member of the Appalachian Club of Boston*1 the Sierra
Club of San Francisco.
Taber
b. Manchester, Me., March 18,1853. s. Alden and Sarah
c.
Edward,
(Pope), m. Haverford, Pa., Mary Agnes Yarnall.
1891. Address, The Chastleton, Sixteenth and R Streets,
Washington, n. C.

I

I
\

�AMiauiQAn A .1 iPT hi h: LbuB
IK ACCOUNT CUKRBHT wnr»m

V

BBMJ. i\ §_BAYER

THBasttH:o.p

GENERAL ACCOUNT

receipts
1924
Jan# 1

By balance from 1923

Jan. 1
Bee. 3l

"

IT

dues 1 member for 1923
,T 94 members 11 1924

¥115.24

¥

5.

470.

Sale of Alpina Americana
By remittance for dinner
!T
TT
" badge
M
TT
TT exchange on check
TT
Interest at Bank

¥475.
42.83
4.
2.50

.15
5.85

530.33

$645.57
EXP BIIDI TUBES
1924

F

To Le Boy Jeffers, oecy An. Dues
Bureau of Associated
$ 15.
Mountsineering Clubs

Jan. 18

21

f!

TT

26

TT

IT

it

26

1

29

it

B. h\ Seaver, Disbursements
¥2.00
Jan. 21 Stamps
1.30
Rubber TT
TT
Pod
*35
Treasurers A/0-John Wolty, Mgr,
Bill January 19, 1924
200 Envelopes
125 Bill heads
Secy- W. T. Boberts Go .Inc.12.25
$
Dec.18 - 125 notices
4.50
"
5 - Tijfing inpages
4.
Tt 18 - 125 notices

Williams &amp; Wilkins Oo.
Mailing Alpine Amer. to
5 persons
J.P.Lightowler, bill -jsn.bth
.bantam at Mtg.
Jan. 5th- lM.Y.Pub. library

15.00

3.65

8.00

20.75

.48

10.00

i

;

w

jyjw«3

■mm■n

�BROUGHT FORWARD
1924

f

Jan. 31

H.B. de V.Schwab-Mrs.
Bora Keen Handy
for dinner

Feb. 13

I'o-Treasurer 1 s disbursements
Rhone- Hartford
tfl. 50
Summit
.45
Kubber Stamp
1.35
n
it
pad
.30

Mar. IS

" Secy a/c-W. F. cohorts Co Inc
Bill “‘arch 1st,
Fob.1-125 notices
13.50
postage &amp; mailing
3.58
i
Geb. 21-150 circulars
An. Mtg.
24.00
Feb.23- Postage &amp; L£Lg.

20

»T

20

Treasurer’s Account
John Folty, Mgr. bill
March 13- 275 envelopes
with request

Apr. 2

18

18

1®
!

4.00

3.60

45.41

3.75

Williams &amp; Wilkins Go.,
bill Feb-26/24 storage 1
bin from 10/15/23 to 1/15/24
3 mos. @ 75cts.
vi5* 75

Bill Feb.29/24 mailing
Al. Amor.

17

4.33

I

^06

James Stuart Lov/ry, bill
]?eb. ll-renev/al fire Ins.
1 year ;j,&gt;700-to 3/22/25 ©
•60 Baltimore
TT

11

it

IT

Library Bureau, bill iier.
29/24- 1 antique oak
cabinet (for Photos)
Special price
W. i*# Roberts Co Inc.,
Secretary’s Account,bill
Apr. 1- item 3/26- typing
8 lists of members

.81

4.20

40.00

4.00

Williams &amp; Wilkins Go. bill
i^ar. 31- Fi£B-bailing 3 copies .10
Al. Arner. Biar.-!?
9
TT
*.90

1.00

Williams &amp; Wilkins go.
Bill Apr.15-storage 1 bin
from 1/15/24 to 4/15/24 @.25

.75

lC J l' °

�brought forward
1984

I

Hay 80

Williams &amp; Wilkins Co., bin
March 31-postage on 8 new
members and 1 outside

31

Library Bureau- bill Auril 30
3uar. Oak Cabinet unit',
Authorized by Council at mtg.
Lew iork, dan. 9,1984.

June 19

it

Le Roy Jeffers, bill dune 18,
100 copies free of Bulletin
27
"
@ .06....................
1.62
127 envelopes
1.00
postage
1.27

24

Henry S. Hall Jr, in exchange
for money order from Mrs.
Hrazeur for club badge.

25

B.jj'.

Aug 7

Beaver, Areas.disbursements- cable of
sympathy to Mrs. Mallory,
per letter Lr. Hichols

Williams &amp; Wilkins Company,
bill my 31- postage
"
June30- "
July31- Storage 1 bin
4/15/24
to 7/15/24 • • •
from

Oct 17

Appalachian Mt* ^lub^
payment for Appalachian
notes in Appal# in 19£2
per action of council 19^4

i^ov. 3

Williams &amp; Wilkins oo.-bill
Oct. 15- storage on 1 bin
from 7/l5/24 to 10/15/24 0.25

�T

'H'£
BKOuGrti1!1 FORWARD

i
1
;■

.

(ii

1924
pec.I?

Pec.23

Dec.Sl

P

i

secretary's Account,
W. p. Roberts Co., "bill
isov. 6.-postage addressing &amp;
mailing..........................
6.58
1000-ir 10 envelopes. • • 18.8b
ISO notices
....
13.50
nov. 8-addressing 3 sets of
envelopes.......................
4.50
uhas. jb‘. Bednbridge 1 s Sons
bill December 18- 300 sheets
Scotch grey Photo Mounts
22 x 28 @ 12.50
37.50
less 3/o • •
1.12
0ounci 1 Mtg. u.Y. Oct.
Balance to credit General Account
In 1920 General Account borrowed from
'Reserve Fund to assist in financing
Climbers1 Guido Book .. . §300#
The Club paid towards cost . . . $550.
Mr# Howard Palmer advanced... . 463.
ioi37
Cost of book ...........

36.7V •

36.38

ip 519.68
$ 325.89

t/

�r
:

■sssiss^BI
2^%

it iL 3 rjjx
i

1924
oan. 1
4

By Balance from 1923
" Coupons u. S. L. Loan
1021.00
" Interest at Brooklyn Savings
29.75
1Bank
13.59
IlfYBSTBI) AS i'-0LL0\73
U.S. L. Loan, CP C4M K

1064.42

700.
280.53

In Brooklyn Savings Bank
" Bank of America

83.89

1064.42

$500. in addition on loan of General Bund 1920.
Jan. 1

Jan. 1

sLWARL WKYMBRR kUMD
By Balance from 1923
~~
317.50
interest at Brooklyn Savings Bk.
2.56
By Coupons U. S. L. Loan
10.63

330.69

III VESTS!) AS ROLLONS
L'.S.L. Loan,8t cost
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
" Bank of America

330.69

250.
53.22
27/47

LIBRARY BBLOWMBIIT FUND
^ -SIs’
By Balance from 1923
1141.88
" Coupons City of .ueboc
50.
" Interest at Brooklyn savings
7.46
sank
1199.34

EXPENDITURES
Beb. 1

To 7th payment iJ.I. Pub. Library 50.00

1149.34

Balance....................
INVESTED AS FOLLOWS
City of Quebec
&lt;?•
In Brooklyn Savings Bank
" Bank of America
Jan. 1

970.00
154.34
25.00

CLUB nOUSE RCiJL
By Balance
" Interest at Brooklyn savings
x&gt;ank

1149.34

50.00

in Brooklyn Savings Bank

2.02

52.02

••• •

52.02

SUMMARY OF BAIAUCBS
Pvnnirlvn Savings Bank
Bankof America
General Account
Reserve fund
fthymper xund
Library endowment

^325.89
83.89
27.47
25.00
$ 462.25

Club aouse Bund

280*53
53.22

154.34
S488.LW
52.02
7B40Tn

;

�tEB AMERICAN alpine club,

Dog. 31, 1924.

t

Ml'. LOGAN EXPELI'px Ofi
JJ’UND
RECEIPTS
1924

29 persons subscribed
Interest at Bank

jviar» 2 R
Hov. 17

#1365.00
2.19

vl367.19

EXPENDITURES

Sept. 17/l8 Circulars, Envelopes typewriting)
:23.00
postage
) v
Cheek favor Alpine Club of Canada
lit. Logan Expedition
1344.19

Deo. 9

1367.19

2 persons subscribed 1
7
3

it

4

IT

6

If

1

T?

5

1

tr

interest

5.
10.
20.
25.
50.
75.
100.
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'

�AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
MINUTES OF MEETING OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS
HELD MARCH 21, 1925 AT NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY

was called to order at 2*30 p ^ The meeting
^nols.
There were present of the Council: ■ est;q°yTPfesident Harry p.
Gilmour
were present

Z&amp;StgSZ:

Jeffer8' ^

Owing to the secretary's absence, H. Palmer was appointed secretary
. The reading of the minutes of the last Council meeting was
pro ten
omitted •
The treasurer B. F. Seaver, read a statement of the accounts,
Subscriptions to the Mt. Logan fund
! which was approved and ordered fi i
$&gt;1732.19
S'7) i «■
{I had
fundtotalled
was 1330.69.
The from
reserve
8^scribers. The Edward Whymper
The financial

|

Of the Club „as
NOMINATIONS

:

|
The nomination of Merl LaVoy was brought up for discussion. A
I statement being made by Mr. Seaver rebutting the idea of any possible
professionalism on his part, on motion of Dr. Ladd seconded by Mr. Seaver,
I he v/as declared an acceptable candidate for membership in the Club.
membership, proposed by Dr.
The nomination of H. F. Lambart for
presented
unanimously carried,
Hickson and seconded by H. Palmer, was honored to and
have
him as a member.
tfith the remark that the Club would be

elected president especially
Dr. Nichols remarked thati v.cs Vioci oeenin his efforts to extend tne.
Mountaineering
on the ground that he^ woula
inf0rmed txir.t - Harvard
^ members..
To this
fflemoership of the Cluo. He t in more
t0 look into
Otab ,M no„ 21 strong- «. ■« snf Caip» » “"f. w «*•
e^, he appointed Messrs. Hall ana
rs to join
matter of interesting Western mounr.
llo*y'
ip’iroHrs.
/*1%*presentation at the next
meeting of the C *- ’

^ v***0^^T,

p g7ime i, +viat
-member
Mr- •A* L.
This
After a brief disC^p0f’tlie gMest
and askinS
hum, now an active raeia
the
fi°‘n PL0rs Pre
11aB unanimously earn©
were
the counc
Ambers of the Council ^ igion "
9n ^is was the unanimous
their sanction.
Donald B.

and carried that the a
i^cMin anto, hrn°ved
rem^-'t"teci for another year. The
Iected

°norary membership v/as left open

of Mr
of*his being
for leter action.

�• letter from Miss Buck concerning the membership of
jadby the presiaent, without any action.
p
hrs* Stone

NOMINATING COMMITTEE
I

president Nichols appointed the following rnnu +.

Lewis l. Delafield chairman, with Judge JUnS^n{Lcorittee!

were to canvass the Club membership and report ~
Mr; Henry Bryant,
gents, and councilors, for actio/by the ci^b ?tPIS81dent» vlce
5
The members of the committee ere to be
at t'?e next ^nual
d 6 t0 be informed of their appointjeetiflS* Secretary Wilcox.
sent W
ANNUAL MEETING
j

After some o.iscussion it was dsciripH +&gt;,«•}-

I

DINNER COMMITTEE

I

meeting of
Sr1
, 1926, upon

tTMGilm'oux‘! ln *" York “

Dr. Nichols remarked that we might anticipate reports of great
aountaineering from our members at this time, and suggested that we emphasize
the work of our own membership more than we have done at recent meetings,
lie ought to get all of the speakers from our own ranks. He appointed
to ^following committee: hr. 3. F. Beaver, general chairman, Dr. Ladd
r on the program of speakers, Mr. Schwab treasurer of the committee and to
assist Dr. Ladd with the program, Miss Helen Buck on the artistic and
oecorative side of the dinner, and Mr. Osgood Field to round up and bring
| ao,m a good delegation of the Harvard boys interested in mountaineering.
PUBLICATIONS
vdth
regard to publicaMr. Palmer gave an aCC0U£b lessor Fay Rstinf
t«e^cellar,
as
tions and read a letter _ from Pi ,
had on stoic u
Afferent issues of Alpina v;u
follows:
Alpina #1
Alpina #2
«2
Half tone plates ox ,1
in covers
Half-tone plates oi -,r“
without covers
Unfilled envelopes am
half-tone t&gt;locics
of

Of

75

150

/, II -v 26" X 16" &gt; or 9_1/2

i Cubkefp°ve, some 850 copies of #2

* Such
C’^V

140 copies
1140
"

^ u°professoi' ^ Spv&gt;aifing

^r^^emhn in
decision as snail neiccu-

This '"as acquiesced in by the Board-

cell“

It was suggested that word be

�from Mr. George Vaux, in Philadelphia

i

of Alpina ^ in hls hands*

'

’ cis to whether he has a

(tf pupP1^

Tt was moved by Mr. Palmer that the half-tone plates of Alpina #2
rented to professor Fay with the compliments of the Board of
•re t)reseri
1 ce ‘ctors.
Dhe
It was thought that we should continue and incre^qp our good rela­
with Appalachia.
tions
Dr. Nichols
remarked
he ’the
»«■°Jld
i S1!
- continue
cations,
consisting
ofkeep
Mr. that
pEime"
and
hoped
they would
in
mind
Wniththe
Dr* Ladd ^ °n ?ubli~
*“4*r
P“a Am8ri0“a »» ™ approprStf
« PublUhLf

HT. LOGAN

Mr . Palmer reported the final composition of the Mt. Logan expedition
asset forth in a recent letter from Mr. MacCarthy, extracts from which,
dealing with the general scope of the expedition, were read. Mr. Carpe'
read a form of agreement which members of the expedition were requested
to sign in relation to giving out news about it when in the field. Mr.
Delafield stated that this merely referred to information for publication,
and that our delegate could sign it without binding himself in relation to
sending hack news to his personal associates not to be published.

I
Adjourned 4:30 P. M.
Respectfully submitted
Secretary Pro Tern

�mmem

i

MEETING OF THE BOARD OF

DIRECTORS.

Nov. 28th 1925

A meeting of the Board of Directors
was held at the Public
Libras in New York City at n a.m . on Nov. 28th 1925.
There were present
Dr. Nichols, Howard Palmer r t? Seaver, Y/.D. Wilcox,

Dr. Gilmour, Dr. Ladd,

Henry S. Hall Jr, and by invitation Mr.

Jeffers and Mr. MacCarthy.

Owing to the loos of his suit case with
necessary papers at the
railroad station the Secretary arrived late and in the
meantime Dr. Nichols
introduced an informal discussion of the idea
of increasing the number of
councillors from four to six . Amongst other things it was pointed out that
Jp

a larSer Board would give greater representation by members
body.

in governing

Also that more time would be consumed in the meetings and that un-

less the new councillors were from near by places it would be difficult
to secure a quorum.
Upon the arrival of the Secretary the minutes of the previous
meeting were read and approved. The Treasurer read a report and showed
:

1

that there was a balance of $23.00 in the Mt. Logan fund. It was moved
and approved to ajbply this
on expense of publishing Mr. Carpers report.
Dr. Nichols said that the Nominating Committee would hand in
their

report at the Annual Meeting and that they were working slowly but
very
carefully in their selection of candidates for officers for the next
thre e years .
said that he was in

P

Mr. Palmer for the Publication Committee
of Alpina Americana and
corre
ndence with an author for a new number
Volcanic cones of
had
received a favorable reply, the subject being the
Annual MeetCascades. He said he would bring this matter up at the

�jps:
ing*
Mr Seaver asked for approval of his

action in not sending
bills to Messrs Reid and Lambart which
was given. With
regard to Mr.
t-man
it
was
argued
that
he
was
now
doing
MackHlan
very well financially
•ith the results of his Arctic expeditions and that
a bill should be
sent him.
With regard to the copies of Alplna

now at Professor Fays*

house, it was not considered advisable to send all these to Williams
&amp;
Wilkins as they did not care to have a large amount of
so called dead
matter on hand but were willing to have active properties that were
more or less frequently called for.

Owing to the fact that No. 2 was

getting very low the Secretary suggested that fifty copies of same be

H

forwarded to W. &amp; W.

This was approved and the Treasurer was directed

to pay charges.
Mr. Jeffers, Club Librarian, asked for an appropriation of
0ne hundred dollars for further purchase of photographs. Dr. Nichols
complimented the intelligent work of our Libraian in the past. Mr. Pal­
mer said that we should have to expend about one thousand dollars on
publications this year. Dr. Ladd said that we should be careful in our
e*penditures and suggested that fifty dollars be available upon request
^

ibrarian and it was approved that Treasurer be authorized to pay

out up to that

I
p

sum.

New candidates for alection
follows;-Samuel Cabot, Joseph J* Haza j

membership were approved as
Hazard, John
g joseph &lt;-* •

Coolidge Hurd, Miss Marjorie Hurd, Ernest K

Lindley, Mrs• Winthrop

Stone, Action was postponed temporarily on name of Mr. Cary Bok,
and it was suggested that he be invited to the Annual Dinner and further
inquiries made as to his qualifications

mmmm

The name of Nenry E. Mills was

�v*;
j

If

also

laid on the table for future action,
in the discussion of these candidates above

mentioned it was
brought out that it was highly important to have letters
of recoromendafoom
the
proposers
and
seconders
of
tion
such candidates. Soine were
entirely unknown to the Board and as they had

no letters of any kind it

was impossible to take action or form an intelligent opinion
qualifications of the candidate.

as to the

Mr. Palmer stkted that in his
opin-

ion professionalism was 1101 necessarily objectionable even to the point
of accepting a first class guide.
Dr. Nichols appointed Dr. Ladd and Mr. Palmer a committee to
recast the paragraph in By-Laws referring to elections.
Mr. Palmer brought up the subject of an honorarium for the
author of the new Alpina and the question of amount was discussed from
were
different angles.
Dr. Nichols said that we .reasonably well off with
regard to funds and that he felt that the Publications Committee v/ere
warranted in being generous and. in carrying the work through handsomely.
He said that unless there was objection by the Board the Committee
should eonsider itself warranted to give an appropriation to author.
There v/as no objection.
Dr. Gilmour announced that he had volunteered to represent
the Club upon the occasion of the death of the guide Gustave Aimed
Couttet, who lost his life on the Grand Dru Sept. 2,1925, the funeral
{

being held at Chamonix.
by the Board.

j

at one P*m.

His action in so doing v/as heartily approved

There being no further business

the meeting v/as adjourned

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                    <text>AAC Library – Journal Collection

United States
Accidents in North American Mountaineering (AAC Publication)
1948-2017
The American Alpine Journal (AAC Publication)
1929-2017
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/americanalpinejournal
http://alpinebriefs.wordpress.com/
American Alpine News (AAC Publication)
1958-2006
http://alpineclub.advantrics.com/knowledge/newsletter-aan.asp
American Alpine News. Annual Reports (AAC Publication)
2007-2008
AAC Quarterly Status Reports
1998
AAC Monthly Status Reports
1993-1996
AAC Board Minutes
1975-1998
AAC Membership Handbook
1974-2000
AAC e-News (AAC Publication)
2000-2007
http://alpineclub.advantrics.com/knowledge/ne
wsletter-enews.asp
AAC Friends of the Library, Newsletter
2001-2006
Adirondac
1950-1967, 1972-2009, 1945-1949, 1968-2018 (incomplete)
http://www.adk.org/ad_mag/index.aspx

�Adirondack Life
1970-1977
http://www.adirondacklife.com/
Adirondack Mountain Club Newsletter
1991-1995
Adventure Journal
2016-2018 (02-09, missing 01)
Alaska
1997, 1999-2000, 2007
http://www.alaskamagazine.com/
Alaska Geographic
v.1-15, 20, 23, 25-26, 28
Alpina Americana
1907, 1911, 1914
Alpinist
2002-2018
http://www.alpinist.com/
American Hiker. American Hiking Society
1989-1992, 1993-1997, 2006 (incomplete)
http://www.americanhiking.org/newsRoom.aspx
Apex to Zenith
1987-2017
http://highpointersfoundation.org/HPF/news.html
Appalachia
1876-2008
http://www.outdoors.org/publications/appalachia/index.cfm
AMC Bulletin. Appalachia Bulletin
1907-1992
AMC Outdoors
1993-2007
http://www.outdoors.org/publications/outdoors/
AMC Annual Reports
1923-1965

�AMC Membership Register
1964
Appalachian Trailways News
1939-1998 (incomplete)
The Arizona Mountaineer
1966-2011
AMC Times
1976-1977
Ascent
1967-1980
The Avalanche Review
1985, 1991, 1997-2018
http://www.americanavalancheassociation.org/publications.html
Backcountry
1994-2018
http://www.backcountrymagazine.com/
Backpacker
1973-2018
http://www.backpacker.com/
Backpacking Light
Issue 6
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/index.html
The Benchmark
2005-2006
Big City Mountaineers
2004
Boulderdash. Appalachian Climbing Quarterly
2000-2001
California Mountaineering Club Newsletter
1991-2018
California Mountaineering Club, Membership Directory
2000-2002

�Canadian Rockies Annual
2016-2017
Cascadians
1963-1964
Castle Country Canyoneers
1999
Center Stage, publication of the Center of the American West
2005
The Chicago Mountaineer
1977-1990, 1991, 1993, 1997-1998, 2000-2002, 2006, 2008-2017 (incomplete)
Chicago Mountaineering Club Newsletter
1949-1969, 1971-1977, 1977-2018 (incomplete)
Chicago Mountaineering Club Bulletin
1987-1996
Chicago Mountaineering Club
2005-2009
Climbing
1970-2018
http://climbing.com/print/index/
The Climbing Art
v.1-34
The Climbing Zine
2009-2018
Colorado Environment Report
1998-2004
http://www.ourcolorado.org/media-center/newsletter/
Colorado Mountain Club, the Boulder Group: Compass
1988-2008
http://www.cmcboulder.org/compass/currentIssue.pdf
Colorado Mountain Club, the Denver Group: Mile High Mountaineer
1959-2018 (incomplete)
http://www.cmc.org/denver/info_MHM.aspx
Colorado Mountain Club, the Fort Collins Group

�2002-2008
Colorado Mountain Club, the Longs Peak Group
2003
Colorado Mountain Club, the Pike’s Peak Group
1981-2005
Colorado Mountain Club: Rucksack
2008-2009
Colorado Outdoors
1988-1997
Colorado Search and Rescue Board Newsletter
Jan-Feb 1999
http://www.coloradosarboard.org/csrb-newsletters.asp
Colorado State Trail News
2003
Continental Divide Trail
2005
http://www.cdtrail.org/page.php?pname=news/newsletter
Couloir
1991-2007
The Crux: Southwestern Mountaineers
1962-1971
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club
1951-1953, 1956-1957, 1959-1960, 1962, 1965, 1969
Denali National Park, Annual Mountaineering Summary
1997-2003
http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/summaryreports.htm
Descent, Alaska Alpine Club
1952, 1969-1995
Desert Sage
1965-2018 (incomplete)
http://angeles.sierraclub.org/dps/newsletter.htm

�Elevation
1999-2000
The Eastern Trade
1971-1975, 1978
Expedition News
1995-2018
http://www.expeditionnews.com/
The Explorers Club
1910-1923
The Explorers Club, Membership Lists
1927-1928
The Explorers Club, History
1905-1935
The Explorers Journal
1954, 1956-2018 (incomplete)
Explorer’s Log
2004
Fourteener
2003-2007
Harvard Mountaineering
1927-1967, 1972, 1975, 1979, 1984, 1989, 1994, 2004
http://www.harvardmountaineering.org/publications.htm
Harvard Travelers Club
1926-1927, 1930-1931, 1938, 1947, 1949, 1953
History of the Harvard Travelers Club
1902-1932 (published 1933)
High Country News
1989, 1991, 1996-1997, 1999, 2001-2003, 2005-2006
http://www.hcn.org/issues/41.6
HimalayaNet
2002-2003
Himalaya Research Bulletin

�1994-1996
http://www.himalayan.pdx.edu/
Hooked on the Outdoors
2003-2004
http://www.ruhooked.com/
The Idaho Alpine Club Bulletin
1963-2015
ikat: Newsletter of Central Asia Institute
2004-2005
https://www.ikat.org/
Inside Outdoor
2008-2012 (incomplete)
http://www.insideoutdoor.com/
The Iowa Climber
1943-1963, 1964-1968, 1973, 1975, 1979
Iowa Mountaineers
1945-1965, 1989, 1997
Journal of Leisure Research
2000-2005
http://www.rpts.tamu.edu/journals/JLR/
Kangri News, Newsletter of the International Explorers Connection
(continues as Himalayan News)
1999-2004, 2008
http://www.hec.org/club/publications.htm
Kinnikinnick, Bulletin of the Spokane Mountaineers
1939-1961, 1966-1975
Mazama
1896-2018
Mount Whitney Club Journal
1902-1904
Mount Washington Observatory News Bulletin
1961-1966 (incomplete)
http://www.mountwashington.org/publications/windswept/

�Mountain Bulletin. Publication from the AMGA
(American Mountaineering Guides Association)
1997-2005

Mountain Gazette
1972-2012 (incomplete)
http://www.mountaingazette.com/
Mountain Magazine
1927-1931
Mountain Research and Development
1981-1982, 2000, 2006-2008 (incomplete)
http://www.mrd-journal.org/
Mountain Rescue
1975-1985
Mountain Rescue Forum
1989-1991, 1994-1997
Bergtrage. Seattle Mountain Rescue
2004
http://www.seattlemountainrescue.org/newsletters/
Mountain Yodel
1994-1998
The Mountaineer Annual
1907-1908, 1912-1994
The Mountaineer Bulletin
1911-1999
The Mountaineer
1989-2018 (incomplete)
Mountainfreak
2000
MountainNet, The email newsletter of the International Mountain Explorers Connection.
2003-2004
http://www.hec.org/club/publications.htm

�Mugelnoos
1938-2009
Museletter: a publication of the Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum
National Geographic
1922, 1926, 1929-1930, 1934, 1938, 1943, 1948, 1953-1954, 1955-2018
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/
National Geographic Adventure
1999-2010
http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/
National Geographic Kids
2002-2018
http://kids.nationalgeographic.com/
National Geographic Traveler
2001-2018
http://traveler.nationalgeographic.com/
National Geographic World
2001-2002
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/media/world/
National Parks Magazine
1942-2018
http://www.npca.org/magazine/
Nature Conservancy
1990-1996
http://www.nature.org/magazine/spring2009/
The Nature Conservancy News
1962-1969
Northwest Discovery
1980-1989
Off Belay
1972-1981, 2004
Off Piste
2001-2007
http://www.offpistemag.com/

�Onsight
1994-1995
On Scene
2006
On the Rocks
1985-2007 (incomplete)
Outside
1978-2018 (incomplete)
http://outside.away.com/outside/magazine/archives/index.html
Outside Traveler
2004
Outward Bound. International Newsletter
1998-1999
http://www.outward-bound.org/ne_sub1_news.htm
Pack &amp; Paddle
1991-1996 (incomplete)
Pathways across America. A newsletter for National Scenic and Historic Trails.
1999
http://www.nationaltrailspartnership.org/issues_index.asp
Peaks and Valleys, Spokane Mountaineers.
1959-1962
The Potomac Appalachian
1959-2018
http://tiny.cc/PotomacAppalacian
Potomac Appalachian Magazine
1973-1975
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club Bulletin
1934-1986 (incomplete)
Powder
Feb. 2004
http://www.powdermag.com/
The Prairie Club Bulletin

�1987
Princeton Mountaineering
May 1951, Spring 1953
Rambler
1994-2018
Real Sport
1995
Rescue Rucksack
1968-2009
http://www.tmru.org/rucksack/archives.php
Ridgelines
2002-2009
Rock &amp; Ice incl. Ascent
1984-2018
http://www.rockandice.com/
RMRU Newsletter (Rocky Mountain Rescue Unit Inc.)
1965-1985, 1989, 1991, 1995, 1997
http://www.rmru.org/newsletter.htm
SAR News (Search and Rescue)
2003-2009
http://tiny.cc/SARnewsletter
SCREE. Mountaineering Club of Alaska
1958-2018
http://www.mcak.org/MCAScree.html
Search and Rescue Magazine
1973-1997
http://sarzine.com/
She Sends
2003-2006
Sierra Club Bulletins
1893-1987
http://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/200807/bulletin.asp

�Sierra
1988-2018
http://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/
Sierra Club Circulars
1923-1927
Sierra Echo
1961-2018 (incomplete)
http://angeles.sierraclub.org/sps/echo.htm
Signpost, Washington Trails Association
1990-1992
SMR Newsletter (Seattle Mountain Rescue)
2002-2003
http://www.seattlemountainrescue.org/newsletters.html
Solid Rock, Climbers for Christ
2003-2007
Southwestern Sierra Climbers Association, Bulletin Board
1998-2004
Sport Climbing Connection
1990-1993
Stanford Alpine Club
1955, 1958, 2002-2005
http://alpineclub.stanford.edu/info/journal.html
Summit
1955-1996
Surviving Together (ISAR)
1992-1997 (incomplete)
Switchback
1999
The Talus Pile
1977-1995 (incomplete)
Thin Air, Newsletter of the High Altitude Mountaineering Section, CMC.
1999-2003
http://www.cmc.org/denver/focus_hamsect.aspx

�Telemark Skier
2007-2012 (incomplete)
http://www.telemarkskier.com/
Teton Stewards: Newsletter of the Grand Teton National Park Foundation.
Fall/Winter 2007-2008
http://www.gtnpf.org/GTNPF_Winter09.pdf
Tracks and Banners
1971-1976
Trail and Timberline
1915, 1918-2018
http://www.cmc.org/TNT/trailhome.aspx
CMC Summer Schedules
1983-1990
CMC Winter Trip Schedules
1985-1991
Tread Lines (Colorado Trail Foundation)
1999, 2007-2018 (incomplete)
http://www.coloradotrail.org/treadlines.html
Ultima Thule: Journal of the Farthest Places
June 2008
Up Rope
1944-1995
Urban Climber
2005-2012 (incomplete)
http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/
Vertical Adventure, Solid Rock Climbers for Christ
2008
Vertical Times, Access Fund
2005-2009
http://tiny.cc/VerticalTimes
Volunteers for Outdoor Colorado
2003, 2005

�Vulgarian Digest
1970-1972
Western Outdoor Quarterly
1949-1963
Wild Earth
1998, 2000-2004
Wilderness
Winter 1985
Wilderness and Environmental Medicine
2002-2005
http://tiny.cc/WEMjournalarchives
Wilderness Medicine (Wilderness Medical Society)
2002-2005
http://www.wms.org/publications/magazine.asp
Wilderness Medicine Newsletter
1988-2005
http://tiny.cc/WMnewsletter
Woodswomen News
1993-1997
Wy’east Climbers
1958-1967
Yale Mountaineering Club
1955, 1957
http://www.yalemountaineering.org/newsletter.aspx
United Kingdom
The Alpine Annual
1950
Alpine Club Newsletter
April 2003
http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/backissues.html
Alpine Climbing. Bulletin of the Alpine Climbing Group.

�1971-1972, 1975
The Alpine Club Circulars
1907-1930
The Alpine Club Handbook
1996
The Alpine Club Members
1902-1914
Alpine Club Menus
1895-1909
The Alpine Journal
1863-2017
http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/index.htm
Summit. BMC (British Mountaineering Council)
1996-2018 (incomplete)
http://tiny.cc/BMC_summit
Cairngorm Club Journal
1896-1993
Cambridge Mountaineering
1940-2011 (incomplete)
http://www.cumc.uk.com/content/journals/
Climb Magazine
2005-2011
http://www.climbmagazine.com/
Climber and Rambler (continued as Climber and Hill Walker)
1976-1988
Climber and Hill Walker (continued as Climber)
1989-1994
Climber
1995-2006
http://www.climber.co.uk/
The Climbers Club Journal
1898-2014

�http://tiny.cc/CCJ_archives
Crags
1976-1981
Edinburgh Mountaineering Club Journal
1961-1962
Fell and Rock Climbing Club. List of Members
1915-1920
Fell and Rock Climbing Club Journal
1907-2016 (incomplete)
http://tiny.cc/FRC_journal_archive
Geographical
2003-2017 (incomplete)
http://www.geographical.co.uk/Home/index.html
High (continued as High Mountain Sports)
1982-2000
High Mountain Sports (continued as High Mountain)
2001-2003
High Mountain
2004
Ladies Alpine Club, miscellaneous publications.
1921-1952
Ladies Alpine Club
1913-1920, 1925-1975
Loose Scree
2002-2018
Mountain
1969-1992
Mountain Craft
1948-1968
Mountain Life
1972-1975

�Mountain Review
1993-1994

Mount Everest Foundation, Annual Review.
2000-2008
http://www.mef.org.uk/NewFiles/toanrevs.html
Mountaineering
1947-1971 (incomplete)
Mountaineering Journal
1932-1938
On the Edge
1987-2005
Oxford University Exploration Club Bulletin
1930-1958
Oxford Mountaineering
1935, 1937, 1950, 1953-1964, 1966-1967, 1969, 1973, 1974-1977, 1980-1981,
1987, 1992-1995, 1997-2005, 2008-2015 (incomplete)
The Pinnacle Club Journal
1924-1968, 1974-2002
Rambler’s Handbook
1933, 1935-1939, 1946-1951
Rucksack Club Journal
1907-1991
http://www.rucksackclub.org/journals.php
The Scottish Geographical Magazine
1917-1919
The Scottish Mountaineering Club Guide
1920-1921, 1923
The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal
1891-2016
http://www.smc.org.uk/Journal/Journal.html

�Travel and Exploration
1909-1911
The Yorkshire Rambler
Winter 1999
Argentina
ATA Boletin (Asociacion Tucumana de Andinismo)
1958-1970 (incomplete)
Boletin CABA (Centro Andino Buenos Aires)
1954-1976 (incomplete)
http://www.caba.org.ar/boletines_es.htm
Nuestras Montañas
1945, 1950, 1953
http://www.nuestramontana.com/
Club Andino Bariloche Memoria
1939-1944
Club Andino Bariloche. Anuario
1950-1958, 1960, 1962-1963, 1967, 1974, 1979, 1982, 1986, 1988, 1992-1998,
2008
http://www.clubandino.com/
Anti Suyu. Revista de Montaña
1986-1989
La Montaña
1960-1971
Revista Club Andino Bariloche
1982-1989
Montanismo
1959
Vertical Argentiba
2008-2013
Australia

�Australia Climb
1997-1998
The Melbourne Walker
1972
Rock
1978-2002
http://www.rock.com.au/
The Tasmanian Tramp
1945-1966, 1970-1979
Thrutch
1967-1979
Australian Wild
1981-1991
Austria
Alpenverein
1990-2005
Austrian Alpine Club. UK Branch Newsletter.
1985-1993, 1975-1985, 1964-1968, 1994-2018
Bergauf
2006-2018 (incomplete)
http://www.bergauf.ch/
Bergundsteigen
2011-2018 (incomplete)
Grazer Alpenvereins nachrichten
1979-1982
Jahrbuch des Oesterreichischen Aplen Vereines
1865-1871
Alpen bilder aus 150 Jahren
1962
Jahrbuch des Öfterreichifchen Alpenvereins
1949-1966

�Fur die Sicherheit in Bergland
1972-2016
Mittheilungen des Alpen Vereines
1864
Mitteilungen des österreichischen alpenveren
1948-1989
Mitteilungen der Akademischen Sektian Graz des Österreichischen Alpenvereines
1949-1991 (incomplete)
Jahrbuch, Österreichische Gesellschaft für Alpin-und Höhenmedizin
1996, 1998, 2001
Osterreichische Alpenzeitung
1896-2018 (incomplete)
Belgium
Revue Alpine du Club Alpin Belge
1933-1955
Bulletin du Club Alpin Belge
1933-1955
Ardennes et Alps
1986-2018 (incomplete)
Bolivia
Club Andino Boliviano. Bulletin de Ski y Andinismo
1941-1948
Headwall
2002
Bulgaria
Exo
1991
Canada

�The British Columbia Mountaineer
1923-1979, 1982-1988, 1990-1996, 1998-2004, 2006-2016 (incomplete)
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club Newsletter
1976-2018
The Canadian Alpine Journal
1907-2018
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/publications/caj.html
Alpine Club of Canada. Annual Camps.
1908-1966
Alpine Club of Canada: constitution and list of members.
1907-1954, 1956, 1958, 1961, 1963, 1965-1976, 1981
Alpine Club of Canada, Gazette.
1921-2018
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/gazette/index.html
Cimes. Group de Haute Montagne, Annales.
1975-1982, 2002
Canadian Geographical Journal
1931-1979 (incomplete)
Climbers Access Society of British Columbia: News.
2001-2004
Cloudburst
1987-1988, 1998-2001
Explore
2002-2003
Gripped
2000-2018 (incomplete)
http://www.gripped.com/
Montage
2003-2008
Mountain Heritage Magazine
1998-2001
Le Mousqueton

�1978-2004
The Polar Circus
1986-1988
Royal Society of Canada
1889, 1917
SAR Scene
1992-2004
http://tiny.cc/scene_magazine
Ski Trax
2003-2014 (incomplete)
http://tiny.cc/Ski_Trax_index
The Sky Line Trail
1933-1957
Trail Riders of the Canadian Rockies
1924-1960
Varsity Outdoor Club Journal
1958-1959, 1963-1966, 1968-1975, 1977, 1994-1995, 1997, 2000-2017
Chile
Escalando
2007-2014
Anuario de Montaña
1956-1962, 1968-1977, 1983, 1989-1993
Revista Andina
1953-1981
Boletin Antártico Chileno
1985-1988, 1990-1992
http://tiny.cc/boletines
China
China’s Tibet

�1999
Shanye
1991, 1993-1994
Columbia
Campo Abierto
1977-1978
Czech Republic
Horská revue
2000
Montana
1998-2009
Denmark
Dansk Bjergklub Klatring
1990-2012
Ecuador
Montaña
1979, 1984
Finland
Kletteratiini
1992-1995
Kiipeily
1977-1979, 1981-1990, 1992, 1996-2018 (incomplete)
France
Alpinisme (continued as Alpinisme et Randonee)
1926-1954

�Alpinisme et Randonee (continued as Alpirando)
1978-1984
Alpirando (continued as Alpinisme et Randonee)
1985-1993
Alpinisme et Randonee
1994-2004
Annuaire du Club Alpin Francais
1874-1902
Club Alpin Francais section des Alpes Maritimes Annuaire
1906-1911
Congress du Club Alpin Francais les Pyrenees Orientales
1899
Bulletin Pyreneen
1918-1939
Club Alpin Francais, Bulletin
1876-1904
CAF Section Lyonnaise, Bulletin
1878-1892
CAF Bulletin de la Section des Alpes-Maritimes
1891-1905
L’Astrolabe
v.3, 4, 6, 7, 10, 11
Federation Francaise de la Montagne
1966-1974
Grimper
1994-2001 (incomplete)
Groupe de Haute Montagne, Annales
1926-1928, 1956-2001
Guides
1996, 1999-2000, 2004-2016
La Montagne et Alpinisme

�1905-2018
Montagnes du Alpinisme
1905-2008
Montagnes Magazine
1984-2004
http://www.niveales.com/montagne.html
Montagnes et Sports
1975-1982
Revue Alpine
1895-1993
Roc ‘n Wall
1995, 1997-1999
Ski and Alpinisme
1984-1996
Vertical
1985-1997
Vertical Roc
1997-2005
Germany
Deutsch und Oesterreichischer Alpenvereins
1885-1894
Zeitschrift des Deutsch-Österreichiischen Alpenvereins
1895-1938
Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpenvereins
1943-1969
Alpenvereins jahrbuch
1970-1983
Alpenvereins jahrbuch berg
1984-2017

�Alpen Journal
2005-2009
http://www.alpen-journal.de/
Alpin Magazine
1982-2018
Bühler
1931-1938
Alpinismus
1963-1982
Der Bergbote
1949-1998
Berge
1991-2008 (incomplete)
Der Bergkamerad
1949-1970
Der Bergsteiger
1929-1950, 1930-2005 (incomplete)
Berliner Bergsteiger
1999-2018
Mitteilungen des Deutschen Alpenvereins
1949-1967
Deutscher Alpenverein Mitteilungen Jugend am berg
1968-1987
Deutscher Alpenverein
1988-1998
Dav Panorama Mitteilungen des Deutsch en Alpenvereins
1999-2017
Klettern
1995-2015
Jaresbericht der section Berlin
1909-1912

�Jaresbericht des Akademischen Alpen veriens München
1919-1933, 1935-1952, 1959-1967
Jugend am Berg
1955-1967
Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins
1875-1938
Nachrichten der Sektion Hohenzollern des Dentschen und Oesterreichischen
Alpenvereins
1930-1938
Peak
2004-2006
Rotpunkt
1996-2001
Greece
Anevainentas (Greek Alpine Club)
no.5-18
To Bouvo
1957-1958, 1963
Bouva
1982-1984
KOPФEΣ
2003-2004
ΣOΣ to Boyno
1936-1940
To Voyno
1946-1976
Hungary
Hegymásó
1987-2007

�Turistasag es Alpinizmus
1930, 1932

Iceland
Islenski Alpaklubburinn
1978-2007
http://www.isalp.is/
India
The Himalayan Club: list of members
1974, 1978, 1980, 1987
The Himalayan Club: report and accounts
1979, 1983
The Himalayan Club: memorandum rules and regulations
1979
The Himalayan Club Newsletter
1951-1973, 1975-2007
The Himalayan Club, Calcutta Section, News and Views.
2008
The Climbers Club, Bombay
1962-1973
The Himalayan Journal
1929-2017
http://www.himalayanjournal.com/
Himalayan Mountaineering Journal
1959, 1961-1966, 1977-1996, 1998-2000
Himalayas Online, Himalayan Environment Trust
2001-2004
Himavanta
1969-2013

�Indian Mountaineer
1978-2015 (incomplete)

Ireland
The Irish Climber
1977-1983, 1985
Irish Mountain Log
1986-2018
http://tiny.cc/IML_index
Mountain Log, FMCI Newsletter.
1978-1986
Journal, Irish Mountaineering Club
1950-1988
Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society
2002
Israel
Land and Nature
1987-1991
Israel Environment Bulletin
1996-1997
Italy
Alp
1985-2003
Bollettino del Club Alpino Italiano
1865-201t5
Bollettino Mensile
1945-1957 (incomplete)
Club Alpino Italiano Sezione di Brescia

�1875-1876
Club Alpino Italiano Sezione di Agordo
1874-1878
Club Alpino Italiano Sezione di Milano
1931-1932
Club Alpino Italiano Sezione di Torino
1911-1916
Club Alpino Italiano, misc. publications
1871, 1883,1938
Bollettino dell Alpinista
1904
Società Degli Alpinisti Tridentini Bolletino
1905-1913, 1989-2008
Explorer
2000-2002
Club Alpino Italiano Alpinista Rivista Mensile
1874-1891
CAI l’Alpinista
1874-1875
CAI Rivista Alpina (continued as CAI Mensile)
1882-1884
CAI Mensile (continued as La Rivista del Club Alpino Italiano)
1885-1979
La Rivista del Club Alpino Italiano
1980-2018
Club Alpino Italiano (CAI)
1863-1913
Bolletino. SAT (Società Alpinisti Tridentini)
1989-2018
Indici Generale della Rivista Mensile

�1882-1954
Revista della Montagna
1977-2002
Techint
1997, 2000, 2002
Lo Scarpone, Club Alpino Italiano
1972-1973, 1975, 1994-2011
Photography Books:
Geometrie di Civiltà
White Out
In Processione sue monti di oropa
Roped Images
Ecuador le Ande Dipinte
La Stampa, Pagine di Montagna
Sant’ elia 1897
Alle origini dell ‘alpinismo Torinese
Alpi Giapponesi
Alpi Gotiche
Picchi Piccozze e altezze reali
Presenze
Impressioni di viaggio
Fermare le emozioni
Scritti di natura
Sulla Verticale del grande nord
Simbolico e concreto
Alpinismo
Il laboratorio dell ‘alpinismo
K2, Millenovecentrocinquantantaquatro
Alpi Giapponesi
I popoli della luna: The people of the moon
100 scatti per il 2000
Infinitamente al di là di ogni sogno
Heidi: unmito della montagna
L’immaginario religioso delle terre alte
Le alpi in panorama
Ritratti dale vette
Rassegna Internazionale dell ‘Editoria di Montagna
1994-1994
Montagna Libri

�1997, 1999-2000
Trento Film Festival
2004-2010
Japan
Johmarayan Tiger
The Alpinist
1950-1958, 2007
Asian Alpine E-News
2016-2018
Climbing Journal
1982-1991
Das Edelweiss. Kwansei Gakuin University Alpine Club
2000
Gakujim
1996
The Himalayan Association of Japan
1980-2002
Himalayan Study Monographs, Association for the Studies of Himalaya.
Kyoto Univeristy
no.2 1991
Iwa to Yuki
1976-1995
Japanese Alpine News
2001-2015
Japanese Journal of Mountain Medicine
1981-2003
Mountaineer’s Note
1994-2002
Mountaineers Data Book
2003-2005, 2007-2016

�The Mountaineering Annual
1986-1995
Rock &amp; Snow
2001-2008
Run Out
1999-2001
Sangaku, Journal of the Japanese Climbing Club
v.1-103, 2017
Yamato KeiKoku
167-174, 298-301, 182-183, 193-195, 160-166, 134-135, 144147, 153-157, 159, 175-181, 125-126, 128-129, 131-133, 270,
297, 203-205, 258 (1964-2018) (incomplete)
Korea
Han Kook San Ak
1971-1976, 1997-1999, 2003, 2008
Dongguk Alpine Journal
1970-1972, 1974
The San
1979
Corean Alpine Club Bulletin
1972-1978
Corean Alpine Club Magazine
1971-1988, 2007-2018 (incomplete)
Korea Alpen Book Club Journal
2004
Korean Alpine Federation News
2000-2018
Mountain
2008
Korean Mountaineering Annual

�2000-2001, 2003-2017
Korean Seven Summits Expedition Reports
2000, 2003, 2007
San ak in Korea
1988-1993
Mexico
Boletìn informativo, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México Asociación de
Montanismo y Exploración
2003-2004
Cimbre
1933, 1936
Sierra Club Boletin, Mexico
1934-1938
Federación Mexicana de Excursionismo y Montañismo, Bolenìn
1994-1999
La Montaña
1933-1971
Club de Exploraciones de Mexico
1955-1980
Montañissmo y Exploración
1981
Club Alpin Monégasque
2008
http://www.club-alpin.asso.mc/
Roca y Nieve
1938
Nepal
Himalayism
1999

�Himal
1992-1995

NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Newsletter
2002
http://www.nepalmountaineering.org/enewsletter/index.htm
NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) Nepal Parbat
2002
Netherlands
Hoogtelijn
1998-2016
MAP (Mesoscale Alpine Programme) Newsletter
2003
Berggids
1993-1997
Mededeelingen der Nederlandsche Alpen Vereeniging
1910-1916
NAV Jaarboek Penninische Alpen
1911
NAV Jaarboek Berner Oberland
1913
New Zealand
The Canterbury Mountaineer
1931-2003
The Climber
1992-2018
http://alpineclub.org.nz/default/197
FMC (Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand)
1981-2017

�http://www.fmc.org.nz/2noticeb/index.htm
New Zealand Alpine Club Bulletin
1949, 1951, 1959, 1963, 1968, 1970-1989
New Zealand Alpine Journal
1892-2017
http://alpineclub.org.nz/default/198
Tarura Story
1919-1944
Tarura
1947-2006
Tarura Tramper
1943-2009
Tramping and Mountaineering
1948-1952
http://otmc.co.nz/bulletinarchive.html
Norway
Nor Klatt
1985-1994
Norsk Klatring
1994-2002
Den Norske Turistforenings Arbok
1873, 1896-1957, 1967-1968
Pakistan
Adventure Tourism in Pakistan
2005
Peru
Club Andino Peruano
1974

�Club Andino Peruano, Boletin Oficial XX Aniversario
1960-1980
Revista Peruano de Andinismo y Glaciologia
1951-1987, 1993-1995
X-Treme
1999
Poland
Baszta
1987-1989
Bularz
1988, 1991
A/Zero
2002-2003
Gory
1991-1992, 1997-2018
Gory: Alpinizm
1994-1999, 2003-2004
Karkonosze
2004
Magazyn Gorski
2001-2002
Optymista
1989, 1990-1991, 1993-1994, 1997, 1999
Taternik
1962-1963, 1965-2015
Wierchy
1935-1982, 1984-1985, 1988-2000, 2003
Wspinacz
1999-2000

�Polar
Arctic
1948-2018
Arctic, Antarctic and Alpine Research
2003-2018
http://tiny.cc/AAAR_index
Arctic Institute Newsletter
1968-1972
Arctic Institute Information North
1977-1996
Arctic Institute Annual Report
1968-1974, 1984-1991, 1995-1996, 2000
http://tiny.cc/AI_annualreports_index
FRAM: The Journal of Polar Studies
1984-1985
Etudes Inuit Studies
2002
Polar Priorities
1993-1996
Polar Priorities, Membership News
1999
The Polar Record
1931-2011
The Polar Times
1947, 1958-1985
Russia
Cool World
1998
Ha Rpahn
1999-2000

�Becthnk rop
1991
Veter stroumstvii
1973
Pobezhdennye vershiny
1949, 1953-1964, 1975-1978
Exo Russia
1990-1991
KAZ6EK
1928, 1930-1931, 1933, 1936
Slovakia
Iamesák
1979-1991
Jamesák
1992-2010
Horo Lezec (was Jamesak)
2010-2018
Pobezdennye Vershiny
1971-1974
Sbornik Prac o Tatranskan Narodnom Parku
1959, 1962, 1964
Vysoke Tatry
1965-1967
Slovenia
Krasy Slovenska
1957-1958
Grif
1995-1996

�Planinski vestnik
1933-2018

South Africa
The Mountain Club Annual. Mountain Club of South Africa
1903-1930
The Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa
1931-2016
http://tiny.cc/MCSA_journal
Mountain Ears
April 2005
Ice Cap. The Journal of the Mountain Club of East Africa
1932
South America
South American Explorer
1979-1980, 1992-1993, 2000
Spain
Anuario de la Fem
1936, 1968-1981
Boletin de la Fem
1978-1993
Federacion Española de Montañismo
1982-1984, 1988-1990
Centro Excursiónista Aquila de las Corts
1949-1959 (incomplete)
Centre Excursionisat Aliga Boletin
1934-1936
CAE (Club Alpino Español) Anuario

�1928-1930, 1934
Centro Excursionista de Cataluna, Boletin
1950-1953, 1955-1960
Montaña
1948-1949, 1954-1956
Quaderns d’Alpinisme
1987, 1993
Cuadernos de Aplinismo
1982, 1985
Desnivel
1981-2018
http://desnivel.com/
Desnivel: Especial Comics
1984
Escalada en Roca
2002
FEDME Boletin Informativo
1994-2008
FEDME Anuario
1995-2014
Extrem
1982-1996
GAME Magazine
no.7-12
Muntanya
1988-2018
Peñalara
1968-1969 (incomplete), 1970-2005
Pyrenaica
1975-2018
http://www.pyrenaica.com/

�Vertex
1970, 1999-2018

Sweden
Bergsport
1975-1997
Fri Luftsliv
1987-1991
i alla väder
1959-1986
På Skidor
1935-1959
Till Fjälls
1936, 1953, 1957-1959, 1969-1970, 1972-1983
Switzerland
Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclub
1864-1889
Alpenland; Schutzhütten – Rundschau
1952-1953
Jahrbuch des SAC (Schweizer Alpenclub)
1890-1923
Annuaire des Alpinistes Dauphinois
1892-1927
Bulletin de la Société Neuchateloise du Géographie
1886-1929
Club Alplin Suisse, Bulletin de la Section Chaux-de-Fonds
1892-1925
La Cordee
1933-1936, 1949-1950

�Club Alpin Suisse, Bulletin de la Section des Diablerets
1925-1930
Club Alpin Suisse, Bulletin de la Section Genevoise
1925-1966
Materiaux pour l’etude des Calamités
1924-1931
Berge der Welt
1946-1955
Les Cabanes du Club Alpin Suisse
various albums and guides
Alpina
1893-1924
Die Alpen les Alpes le Alpi
1925-1972
Les Alpes le Alpi las Alps die Alpen
1973-1993
Die Alpen
1994-2018
http://tiny.cc/alpen_magazine
Akademischer Alpen Club Zürich
1902-1936 (incomplete)
Jahresbericht der Sektion Uto
1899-1915
L’Echo des Alpes
1865-1924
Nos Montagnes
1920-1947
The Mountain World
1953-1969
Le Rameau de Sapin
1866-1916

�Revue des Alpes Dauphinoises
1898-1914
Revue des Geographie Alpine
1913-1932
SAC (Schweizer Alpenclub) Sektion Grindelwald
1907-1957
SAC (Schweizer Alpenclub) Sektion Bern Club
1923-1928
SAC (Schweizer Alpenclub) Sektion Zermatt
1997-2000
Journal Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
1953-1962
UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alplinisme)
1954-2002
Geology and Geography Journals
USA
American Geographical Society – Bulletin
1899, 1904, 1912, 1914, 1915, 1952
Colorado Geological Survey
1909-1920
The Colorado Magazine
1965-1966, 1972-1978
The Geographical Review
1916-1978
http://www.amergeog.org/gr/grhome.html
The Bulletin of the Geographical Society of Philadelphia
1899-1939
Physical Geography
1995

�Federation Proceedings.
Proceedings of the International Symposium on Altitude and Cold
1969

United Kingdom
Association of British Members of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club)
1909-1952
Association of British Members of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club)
Handbooks, journals and reports.
1953-1964
Central Asian Survey
1982-1989
http://tiny.cc/CAS
The Geographical Journal
1893-2013
http://tiny.cc/geographicaljournal454
Journal of Glaciology
1947-1989
http://tiny.cc/JOG
Journal of the Manchester Geographical Society
1908-1910
Journal of the Royal Geographical Society
1830-1880
Proceedings of the Royal Geographic Society
1830-1892
Royal Geographic Society.
Supplement Papers: I, II, III IV
Canada
Review of Historical Publications Relating to Canada
1912-1914
http://tiny.cc/HistPubs_review

�Germany
Geographical Bulletin
1951-1967
Wissenschaftliche Veröffentlichungen des Museums für Länderkunde zu Leipzig
1932-1940, 1953, 1958, 1960, 1963-1964
Bericht der Sektion Reichenau
1936-1937
India
Himalayan Geology
1971-1979c

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